realworkingsailor

Thanks OC! Painting that roof must have been a “fun” job! It definitely gives a good appreciation of what the railroads had to do to keep their “varnish” in top condition for the clientele. Andy

Time for another "small" update. Work has progressed on the corridor side of the car. The sub-side layer has been completed. A tedious process of measuring, marking, remeasuring, checking, remarking, remeasuring, rechecking and finally cutting out each window one at a time. I was pleased with the results, so I've now started to finally glue things together. After the sub-side layer was glued to the scribed outer side layer, the transom windows were then cut out. This process went rather faster than I anticipated (a small mercy). After then windows were cut out, the core layer was also cut and added on. Both the sub-side and core layers are shorter than the outer side layer by almost a scale 12", this now provides a substantial, inverted "L" shaped glueing surface when the time comes to start assembling the car. I've now begun adding the trim layers. Above the windows, the letterboard has been added and below the windows, the belt rail as been started (this will be finished with a final trim piece later). Starting from the left hand side of the car side, I've also now begun adding the vertical trim. After trimming the windows, the mullions will be added to the transom windows and that should just about finish this car side. Andy

A small update. Work has progressed on the ends of the car, and I now have two that are a reasonable match. There's a bit of a preview as to what is to come with the sides, as I went ahead and added the window frames, as well as the doors (and the door window frames as well. One of the tricky bits was getting the top curve to match the curve of the roof end pieces. It's not quite correct, but I've left myself a decent margin for error there, so when the time comes for assembling the car, the arch can be sanded to fit nicely. There's still another layer to be added above the windows, but there again, that will have to wait until assembly. The ends are slightly over width as well, but again, that can easily be corrected at a later point in time. As I mentioned earlier, the ends provide a nice preview of things to come. Next up will be the creation of the sub-side layers. Above is an earlier attempt that is destined only for the scrap pile, but it does nicely illustrate all the cutting that lies ahead. For the sub-side, the transom window openings are a bit more generalized, and the exact openings are still yet to be cut out on the outer side layers. The trick is that the transom windows need to be the same width as the frames of the windows, as cut out on the sub side, so in order to be as accurate as possible, they cannot be cut out until the subside layers have been made and glued in place (fingers crossed that all foes well). Andy

I've been slowly working my way through the various hurdles that come with trying to make a halfway accurate model while working without useable diagrams. A big help has been my brass model collection, of which I have a couple of "wooden" coaches, albeit the smaller variant of the car I'm attempting to build: I painted and lettered the car many many years ago, and numbered the car in the 700 series, but I'm not entirely sure that's correct car number. It's possible that this particular model was based on a couple of different prototypes. The window arrangement seems to indicate it should be one of the 1200 series cars (for which I have found a diagram in a book), but the mechanical equipment arrangement seems to follow some of the cars in the 600-700 series. More importantly for my current project, the window arrangement with respect to the smoking section (at the right end of the car in the above picture) is identical to the arrangement found in the larger car that I am building. Speaking of windows, I have finished cutting out the windows on the outer side layers (with only minimal bloodshed!). There's a very slight height discrepancy that can be corrected later on (a little fudging here and there) but overall I'm satisfied with the results. I've now moved on to making the outside ends of the car. Unlike the majority of later steel cars, the ends of these wooden cars also included large windows. My first attempt didn't quite work out (somewhere a cutting and/or measuring error snuck in, and one side of the arched top is a bit lower than the other, where is meets the vertical side), but my concept seems to be sound, so onwards with another attempt! Finally, I've had more success raiding my spare parts collection, namely I've scored a load of underbody details like the air and steam lines, and other assorted brake equipment details, as well as some end diaphragms. These parts are all leftover from some old(dish) Branchline car kits. After I get the ends figured out, I should be moving on to making the sub-sides. Andy

Westwood... yeah that’s going back a few years! From photos, CPR kept the transom windows until the cars were scrapped, it’s likely, though, that the fancy etched glass was replaced. At Delson there’s also a restored official car that has its etched glass in place: Andy

It’s been a while, that’s for sure! Yes, the windows will be the most tedious (and repetitive) part of this build. if you notice in the prototype photo, each window has a series of three transom windows above it too. I haven’t yet started cutting (or even marking them out) yet, that will happen after I have the sub-sides sorted, so that they line up properly with the window sashes. For the record I plan on only cutting out the full transom window and re-inserting the mullions (made from styrene strip) afterwards. I foresee going through a good number of #11 x-acto blades on this one (I hate dull blades!). Andy

The CPR 1500 series wooden first class passenger cars were originally built in 1912. The car was 80' long over the buffers and had a seating capacity of 76. It also included a smoking area. A surviving example can be found at the railway museum in Delson, Quebec. I had the opportunity to visit there back in 2009. The main hall is fairly dimly lit (as far as photography is concerned). These cars lasted in service almost 50 years. Although in their later careers they were relegated to secondary and branchline service, that represents a significant lifespan, especially for wooden equipment. At some point, the cars had even been converted to electric lighting. Many other types retained the original Pintsch gas lighting. The primary source of inspiration for me was this CPR combine kit I recently completed. One of the primary stumbling blocks for building wooden type cars is the complexity of the windows. For anyone wanting to build a model of a steel car, there are many suppliers of almost every different type of window. For wooden cars, there is considerable scratch building required. The combine I built showed me a viable technique that builds up the car side in multiple layers. An inner core layer to serve as a base. A second sub-side layer which will be seen only as the window sash, a third layer that has the wooden siding, and finally am outer layer consisting of the trim. In my case, these side layers are all being built using styrene of varying thicknesses. The core layer will be cut from 0.040" thick styrene sheet, and the sub-sides will be cut from 0.020" plain sheet. I have already begun work on the third layer using the siding sheet.I had already made a few attempts starting with the sub-side layer, but I was running in to difficulties getting things to line up (between both opposing sides of the car as well as the subsequent layers. I have since decided to start with the siding layer in order to accurately establish the window pattern for each side, and then cut the thinner sub-side layer to fit. The floor of the car is basswood. The clerestory roof pieces are leftover from a couple of other kits that I've built and modified. Most of the remaining bits and pieces come from a healthy stockpile of bits and pieces I've built up over the years (despite what anyone else says, it does come in handy). Andy

A brief history of the ship here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Ontario_(1780) At the bottom of this page is some video footage of the wreck: http://www.shipwreckworld.com/articles/shipwreck-explorers-discover-1780-british-warship-in-lake-ontario For more detail, check out this book: https://www.amazon.ca/Legend-Lake-22-Gun-Brig-Sloop-Ontario/dp/1550821865 Andy

You have my attention. Can’t wait to read your review. Andy

The roofs on these cars are typically galvanized metal. They are often not painted. Quite commonly, when the sides of the car were painted, the crews didn’t mask off the roof, so there is usually considerable overspray. I would definitely follow the recommendation to seal the wood before painting. It doesn’t really matter what sealer you use as long as it’s compatible with whatever paint you decide to use. Scalecoat paints are still available from Minuteman Scale Models, in either bottles or rattle cans. Most craftsman kits like this didn’t come with trucks or couplers (most still don’t). From the looks of it, you’ll need a pair of 70ton roller bearing trucks. And you’ll also need weights if the car is planned to be used. As for your decals, given the age of the kit, you may wish to dig around and see about replacing them all together. Microscale may have what you need. For weathering, look for Pan Pastel. They have weathering pastels that you apply with an applicator sponge and seal with dullcote. Have fun, these types of kits can be challenging, but at least you don’t have to bend any wood into weird curves. Andy

Unfortunately I have yet to stumble upon a definitive work on the subject. Most of what I’ve learned comes from various tidbits from a diverse assortment of sources, and a deep and undivided fascination with all things steam. Short of being able to dig up an old railway shop manual on the subject. Maybe if I was a bit more literarily inclined..... Andy

It has a lot to do with the history and development of the various types of valve motions (valve gear). Early forms of Stephenson’s valve gear (the predecessor of Allan’s straight link) were directly connected in line with the valve stem (no articulated linkage). This required the valves to be placed horizontally in line with the pistons. If the steam chests (the mechanical structure that contains the valve and piston) were to be turned outwards, the locomotive would be made considerably wider than necessary. Even later versions of Stephenson’s gear (on locomotives with vertical oriented steam chests) still kept the rigid valve stem, although the action was transferred laterally through a series of cranks and cams. The real limitation of inside valve gear is the size of the locomotive. Smaller locomotives generally had lighter, more open frames (with more space between). The advent of external type valve gear such as Walschearts, allowed for increases in size of locomotives by permitting heavier frames. Andy

The diagram makes sense. It’s basically a derivative Stephenson’s valve gear, but by moving the radius rod at the same time (and opposite direction) as the link, the same valve action is effected in something like half the space. Andy

Very nice machine work! What manner of valve gear did the locomotive use? Given your valve location between the frames, I’m guessing Stephenson’s? Andy

Have you tried Detail Associates? They do a lot of model train detail parts, but also carry an assortment of brass rod and strip stock. They don’t have a website, but you can find their products on many model railway retailers sites like Walthers https://www.walthers.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Brass+strip (who also may carry some residual K&S strips in stock) Andy

Maybe this might help. In the book “Fighting Ships 1850-1950” by Sam Willis there’s an excellent broadside cutaway illustration of the Marlborough. (Those are just a couple of quick cellphone camera snaps, it’s a coffee table book that’s, well, literally a coffee table)

I’ve been wondering if they’re not modified gun ports for a slide-carriage gun. I had a look at Wikipedia and it claims that later in its career, the ship was fitted with one 7” 110lb Armstrong breech loader. Perhaps it was mounted forward and required wider ports in order to allow it to be traversed, from a central position, either port or starboard. Andy

I would suggest opting for the slightly more expensive Chopper II. Instead of the MDF base, if uses a replaceable cutting mat in a much sturdier cast metal base. Andy

See, I knew that you knew what you were doing, it was all just a test to see who was paying attention in class 😁 Andy

Hi Mike, Very nice metal work on the lantern, although I hope the lenses aren’t glued in yet.... Andy

Hi Sjors! Nice looking boat you're building! I noticed you referenced me the other day, asking about the colours of the propellors and I was thinking of the best way to respond.... then I remembered my profile picture, and figured that it would make a good example for you. The famous picture of me standing in the Kort nozzle. That prop is a typical manganese-bronze alloy prop after a few years work. Then I also remembered that I had another dry dock picture of another ship with a prop of a different metal alloy. I can't remember offhand what the metal was (not stainless steel though), but it's also been through five or six years of work since its last polishing. Hope this helps! Andy

I received for Christmas (and just finished reading), “Erebus” by Michael Palin (yes THAT Michael Palin!). A fascinating account of the history of that enigmatic ship. While the author is not the first person you would think of when it comes to naval historians, he nonetheless manages to weave a brilliant nautical narrative. He covers, in some detail, as much of the human stories surrounding the various voyages of the Erebus, culled from various journals and letters written by the various participants. Starting with some details of her initial construction and her early deployment in the Mediterranean, to her conversion for polar service, and her two polar operations. The first being the successful voyage to the Antarctic, led by Sir James Clark Ross, and her final fateful journey. A recommended read for anyone interested in polar exploration, Sir John Franklin, and maritime history. Andy

For something that has the serious potential to come out (looking) like a total rat’s nest, I am utterly amazed at how neat and tidy your work is. Andy

If you’re talking about the little brass pin nails, these: https://www.micromark.com/Spike-Insertion-Plier are far more accurate and versatile for driving them in (and pulling them back out too). They were originally designed specifically for spiking model railway track, I have a set, and use them extensively for shipbuilding. I’ve had no trouble with nailing plywood, mdf and other woods. Andy

With all the sudden and unexpected interest, I'll throw you good folks a bit of a bone (not one of Freyja's chew bones though). I'm out of the shipyard for the near future, but I'll share a few pics of how far I managed to get with the planking. Not really too many more strakes left to go, I can't remember if it's eight or nine by my last count. The wales are done, but not fully painted, just the top and bottom edges. And popeye, it's not so much the pitter patter of little feet.... more like the thundering footfalls of a herd of galumphing baby elephants! Andy