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Everything posted by realworkingsailor
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It sure opens up a lot of options for those who don’t have a full airbrush setup! Wish I’d known about this a couple of years ago, before spending a fortune getting some Scalecoat paint rattle cans shipped up from the US to Canada for my railway car project(s). Not many online retailers (or postal services) will ship rattle cans locally or internationally. I’ve only seen UPS that will accept a shipment like that (enough said right there, lesson learned, never again!). Andy
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Out of simple curiosity, is there another way to notify the MSW membership of an outage outside of Facebook? I’m sure there are more than a few members (myself included) that want nothing to do with that site. Can another method be setup? (“Sign up here to receive email notifications”?). Rather than pestering the hard working admins with countless messages asking the same question. Andy
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Looks good, but ya need some dunnage! (And lashings!) That load of pipes looks like it’s ready to cut loose in the hold and smash through your fine handiwork! If you really want to go all out: https://www.walthers.com/products/accessories/super-detailing-parts/rolling-stock/freight/load There’s a lot of railway car specific stuff (bulk loads and the like), but if you dig through, there are some other interesting items to fill your holds with. (If you use their dealer locator, Walthers has many locations in the UK, there should be someone near where you live). Andy
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An unfinished past build can still come in quite handy! The benefits of keeping (hiding?) the leftovers! Your progress looks great! Andy
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Bored? Nonsense! It’s just as interesting to see your build as it is to see those full frame wooden model thingys that others are building elsewhere around here. Besides, for me, there’s also a strong sense of familiarity, since I’d spent nearly twenty years of my life mucking around in very similar thingys. Keep up the great work! Andy
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I should have been more clear, I meant the engine kit. Andy
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What are the finished dimensions of the kit you have? It looks pretty good. The big slow speed marine diesels could be upwards of three stories high, so it might work for you. You could always scan it and scale it down on your computer to the size you want. Looks like there are a few Walthers distributors in the UK: https://www.walthers.com/storelocator Andy
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Haha! Easy big guy! Found this intriguing offering: http://www.dhsdiecast.com/mobile/Marine-Engine-Load/productinfo/IMC33-0182/ It’s in 1:50 scale. Otherwise, Norscot offers a bunch of CAT engine models at larger scales (1:35, 1:12) that may also work as a main engine, with a little tweaking and a repaint. Not the cheapest, I’m afraid, but maybe workable. Andy
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Looking nice! Will you be detailing the engine room? I had a couple of thoughts thought to help you get started: https://www.walthers.com/emd-567-prime-mover-kit https://www.walthers.com/refinery-piping-kit-509d60 https://www.walthers.com/piping-kit The first is a 1:87 styrene kit for an engine and generator (you’d need three), and the other two are a collection of pipe works and other fittings (valves, unions etc) that you can assemble as needed. If you feel like diving down that particular rabbit hole 😁 Andy Edit: Found this too: https://www.walthers.com/tanker-truck-loading-rack-kit-7-x-3-1-2-x-3-3-16-quot-17-8-x-8-9-x-8-1cm It has a bunch of pumps and other useful bits.
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Nice idea to show some cargo too! There’s a trick model railroaders use for bulk loads where they start with a block of insulation foam (the rigid pink stuff). The block is then cut to the size of the opening and sculpted to resemble the shape of a heap of cargo. After painting the appropriate colour, a layer of “cargo” (iron ore, coal, etc) is then glued onto the “heap”, and then sealed (dullcote or whatever). Saves weight and “cargo” materials. I wonder if perhaps cornmeal might work better than sand to represent grain. The colour would be perfect for grain. As long as it’s well sealed it shouldn’t cause any problems. Andy
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I wouldn’t worry about the wavy lines. As you said, things will straighten out as you build. It looks great so far! It’s a shame the kit isn’t offered in thicker card stock or even styrene sheet, if only to help combat the wavy paranoia. Andy
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Question About Glue for Plastic
realworkingsailor replied to Gregory's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I wouldn’t drink it or take a bath in it… Most (all) styrene cements are not healthy products. No matter the company, every type of plastic cement should be used in a well ventilated area, and proper precautions should be taken to avoid skin and eye contact, inhalation of the vapours or ingestion. Andy -
Question About Glue for Plastic
realworkingsailor replied to Gregory's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
When it was still available, Tenax 7R was a great plastic cement. I’ve since had success with Squadron Plastic Weld. It’s not quite as aggressive as Tenax, but it still works well. Unless you’re using Plastruct products, avoid their Plastic Weld glue. It’s designed for ABS styrene, and can be a little too much for other, softer types of styrene. I have some and I also find it tends to gum up (and then solidify) my fine applicator brush. Andy -
It begs the question, do it correct as it was, and risk losing the details in the blackness, or bend the truth a little to show them off? (Fully appreciating that you want to keep things as accurate as possible) If you have a spare cockpit (or cockpit pieces) leftover from another project, maybe you could try a side by side to see? Andy
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Good luck with your re-(re-re?)start, Kevin! Andy
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I bought my kit probably only a couple of years after it was released. Right off the bat, I had to get a replacement for the false deck as the laser etched markings, hatch openings (and the centre line) were anything but centred. Everything was 1/4” or so off to starboard. Unbeknownst to us modellers, I’m sure Model Expo has revised the kit over the years to tweak any errors (as reported by builders). Andy
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