mikegr

There's only one picture of Shinano available. I have Kagero's 3d book for reference.

Starting from the top I realized that the oval shape of the funnel is wrong. So I printed some replacements to experiment with a teardrop shape. 

The superstructure is also not compatible with the PE parts so I need to work with it also

Under the deck there is actually a Yamato class hull which seems that Tamiya used this to the Yamato or Mushasi model

Next 

IJN Shinano by Tamiya. An almost intact model in big size.

After washing the deck color was revealed

A world class job in 1/35

I wanted to build a base,  like a small presentation but without  spending much time. So I found a  some 3d files, however it took me all Sunday to adjusting to my preference and scale. Anyway I turned quite ok.

A couple of pics with the other beast.

My first base of the M1A1 was big and empty, the T-90 muddy terain was better even simple. The 3rd was nicer I think

I added the decals and did some light washing. Im looking for a medium effect

I added some equipment to fill in the empty space behind the turret. Next was the weathering by painting some areas with light shade. Then applied acrylic black wash all over but i made it thinner over the rougher horizontal surfaces to avoid excess accumulation of dark liquid. Tomorrow more shades will be applied

I had to make some loopholes for the wires so I found an affective way

I cut a needle in small pieces, made a loop with 0.3mm wire and glued them. Easy. Then I moved on weathering the tracks

Some add on details and a few pics form today's work. Soon will be working on weathering

Today I finished the turret. Some details added according to pics. Tomorrow I will deal with the chassis.

Today I finished the track fitting. Some basic weathering applied although there still more to be done. The fitting was less troublesome however I lost one of two pieces so there were a coyple of gaps under the fenders. I would call the job satisfactory as the result was far from perfect but for the time spended definitely worth it, took me a couple of hours only

18 hours ago, king derelict said:

The wheels look very tidy. I have to agree with you about using Tamiya paint with the airbrush. Always seems consistent and easy.

alan

Thanks Alan

actually wheels don't need to be perfect as they are quite weathered and imperfections can be hidden easily.

With Tamiya I usually dont get the snowy and watery effect

Done painting the wheels. With little brush and micro lenses. Chassis was also painted with airbrush. I really love how easily Tamiya colors are sprayed and thinned. On the upper part I cut the thick plastic at front and rear and replaced it with 0.10mm ABS to create spoilers

Major parts were assembled

I noticed on the above pics that horizontal surfaces are not smooth but have some chipping. Spending some time thinking how to do it I found at the basement some plastic ice crystals that were used on a diorama as ice effect. Put them in a coffee grinding machine, turned them almost in powder form, like salt. Then I brushed the surfaces with PVA + water mix and sprinkle them over. Let them dry for a while then airbrush with primer on low pressure to avoid chipping from blowing away. I have to say the result, after strong initial doubts turned more than satisfying.

Time for a short getaway from 1/700 scale. Lets built something more relaxed.

The kit in details doesn't impress much. The tracks are plastic in many pieces, not the most friendly option to a below average modeler. Somebody on youtube commented that one piece is missing matter how good can be assembled. We will see. The upgrade kit I found for 25€ doesn't sounds tempting although Revell kits do need extra detailing. I have tones of very  close pics to get ideas from

nice looking little ship

1. Yes you can

2. Yes they do. If you keep it in the garage won't be an issue

3. Yes they do. Below 18°c resin may need warm up. I use a hair dryer. Keep distance to avoid overspill. In hot weather may reduce curing times

Last shots on daylight as those above looked a bit unclear

Looking at the history I learned that even this ship was torpedoed at Eastern Solomons by enemy submarine it was was actually friendly fire particularly a 5" aa shell that caused the most casualties off Okinawa, 3 dead, 44 injured

19 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Excellent.

 

OC.

7 hours ago, Baker said:

Indeed, excellent 👍

Thanks everybody for the support and comments

The hand couldn't follow the mind, although I had success in the past. This is the difference between machine and human. So I set aside the base,  time to made a new one, the 3rd. My target now is to make a simple presentation than a layout.

This time a case was made. The reisn poured over and left overnight under a cover. Note the yellowish mixture. Its an old resin left on storage for long time. I didnt take the risk to use it, although it did hardened quite ok in 40 minutes(fast dry product)

Next morning I brushed thick gel over resin, by the time pics were taken it was dried and transparent. Another one project came to end

I am making the sea base

On 9/5/2025 at 7:58 AM, Amphibious0311 said:

What glue are you using for your PE? And how are you managing to do it so cleanly? 
 

im using a 26 gauge needle and I feel like even with good control I’m getting some excess CA glue.

You can different materials for apply glue, like a pin or a single fiber from a paintbrush. If its gel type it can be applied easily

Sometimes if excess glue is allied i lightly burn the part with a lighter. The CA vanishes and re joining the parts is required

For the weatheriing I used basic principles and few materials

Some white airbrushed vertically on the hull. Then bit of black to create contrast. Next was chipping effect with grey rust color.

For deck some white and black washing. Very light. Then some black weathering aon grey areas. I made a very diluted mix. So thin that there is no need to remove the excess black. I don't want to make a mess especially in a such small scale is easy to happen

So I done rigging, it focused mostly on the middle section. I used fake hair. 2.99 for quantity to make 2500 models. But the best feature is that it is very thin barely visible that's why I had to put white paper behind to make it more visible. I did use some elastic rigging too thought, in a few cases.

On 9/1/2025 at 8:44 AM, Baker said:

With all those PE and 3D parts (too small for me) a huge improvement over the original.

 

always nice to follow this 👍

Thank you for following and commenting my post

The rails  are installed.  I will not put aircrafts, they are on duty. Rigging, the next step