mikegr
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Posts posted by mikegr
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- mtaylor, GrandpaPhil, Canute and 1 other
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- Canute and Bill Morrison
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- Canute, GrandpaPhil, mtaylor and 1 other
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2 hours ago, patrickmil said:
Thank you!
Apparently there are quite a few upgrades coming out for this kit now. When it's all said and done, I'm willing to bet the cost of all of the upgrades will far exceed the cost of the kit. That said, the upgrades appear to be very detailed.
Some modelers report 300$ on upgrade parts for a 50$ kit.
Though I do not count my spendings, I cannot cope with that
- king derelict and Canute
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- Canute, yvesvidal, GrandpaPhil and 3 others
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11 hours ago, king derelict said:
Thank you OC. And now i realise that moving to 1/350 doesn't really make it easier. Its a bigger scale but now you can detail tinier elements. The braces for the venturis are absolutely tiny and there are ready use ammo holders for the 4 inch gun that are ridiculously small. I'm undecided whether to even try them If they escape the tweezers they will be lost forever.
Alan.
There is no cure. Whatever the scale there always will be tiny things that have to be worked with absolute precision. Its just the amount of work that differs like painting hulls in 1/200 instead on 1/700
- Old Collingwood, mtaylor, Canute and 1 other
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- Canute, yvesvidal, GrandpaPhil and 2 others
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Next was the hangar. I printed the right half and made some adjustment to fit the PE externally. I made them in separate pieces so I can scratch built the interior more easily them glue them together. Like in Horizon class because of the side compartments for inflatable storage, the heli hangar is somewhat narrow.
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Next was to print the central area between the hangar and the bridge where funnels and towers will placed upon.
However because of warping problems that I couldn't solve after many attempts, I removed it and replaced it with plywood wrapped with plastic fillets for a smoother finish. This handwork took me 2 hours instead of 2 wasted evenings, what a bitter lesson.
Fortunately the other piece, the main canon printed just fine and a barrel made of needle pieces was added along with hand rails.
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I made the hull. It looked clumsy and wide. I had to remeasure to get the proper dimensions
Excess "fat" was trimmed down and it was shortened by 3 cm.
After more careful work I shaped the sides and upon finish wood was polished
Then, I add the PE heli deck on rear and a 2.5 mm piece of resin on bow to make the right elevation
Finally priming and sanding the bow, stern and the sides, several times.
- KeithAug, GrandpaPhil, Canute and 3 others
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22 hours ago, Chuck said:
Lovely work.
14 hours ago, king derelict said:You are a master of seascapes Mike
alan
21 hours ago, CDW said:Very nice work Mike
I thank all the members for their supporting comments as well all the silent followers.
21 hours ago, Baker said:Much, much better than my attempt. 50 years ago 😉 👍
Great work.
You need to consider the information resources and the materials available back then and compare again.
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- Baker, king derelict, Canute and 4 others
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The lesson of the day.
The display looks symmetrical but its not.
Snow paste was used to resemble the waves. On the right i used brush with left and right moves with fading effect.
On the left my index finger was deeped in the paste then applied on the wood.
I found out that the first choice was more appropriate when making long stern wakes as the left and right water moves are quite visible. Perhaps I will try it on a future smaller model as I will need a longer base.
So I balanced the sides by using airbrush on the left to fill in partially the blue gaps and by "indexfingering" the right one. Some airbrushing for smoother fading effect and a drizzle of microballoons. Lastly a few glitters on white foamy surfaces along with silicone bits.
The model assembly came quite good I would rate is 9 out 10 on my satisfaction scale.
The base it wasnt my planned outcome but turned ok. Maybe a few extra gel layers for thicker result would be better. I was pleased by 8 out of 10
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On 2/9/2024 at 3:59 PM, king derelict said:
Great work with the printer
alan
Thanks. It is an old printed with partially working screen and regular resin. Obviously is good to know how to get the best out of it before upgrade to another model.
I experiment a bit with plaster and various tools to form the seabed but all come to dead end so I gave up.
Since my target was to create a light wavy sea, foam was replaced by wood. Then used gel to form the waves.A standard method. Only difference this time I use clear blue from Tamiya on top. Tomorrow will proceed with the final details.
- king derelict, Canute, Veszett Roka and 4 others
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great built
how do you dissolve the Mr Surfacer?
- mtaylor, Canute and Landlubber Mike
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8 hours ago, BarrettM82 said:
Interesting @mikegr where did you get the stl's? Did you add any supports to the barrels or leave without ?. I struggled with the supports
i design them, pm me which file you like and i sent you
- Canute, mtaylor and BarrettM82
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13 hours ago, Baker said:
Nice work.
I have never seen the red, white and black bands on the turrets on a German ship from that time
was this so then?
Thank you. These are parts of the Decal sheet I ordered. They have been used on another built which I used as a guide.There is also a black roof and a white circle which I didn't draw so I can avoid a paint disaster.
I am not aware of the exact date all I know its definitely before River Plate and after the search light platforms modification on the superstructure.
Oils done. Some chipping, rust effect and ready for rigging
- thibaultron, BarrettM82, yvesvidal and 7 others
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Type 45 Destroyer by mikegr - 1/700
in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Posted
I pour the resin and added a second part of dock. In my hurry to finish it yesterday I made a rookie mistake and forgot to check it the surface was flat so the small inclination so the resin was distributed unevenly. Anyway the purpose was just to display the ships together.