DanielD
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Today in the shipyard was all about the Phillips Capstan. I hope I did it justice, but I see I might need to sand her down a little, might be a mm or two too tall. But I’m not making another one...
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Hmmm, me thinks you must be a commercial pilot, maybe I saw that somewhere...I love to fly, grew up around small aviation most of my life and I flew fairly regularly for about ten years. Then life happens. We still have two or three airplanes in the family, but I don’t fly anymore, my wife is not a fan. The only flying these days is commercial to a destination, a few years ago to Hawaii and before that to Calgary when we spent a couple weeks in Banff national park, most beautiful.
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Arild, welcome aboard! Nothing has changed with the yellow on the inside of the bulwarks so what you see is just a trick of the light. I took this picture late yesterday so lighting could have been an issue. Be sure to read through (and’s follow) Clearway and KeithS Terror builds as I have learned much from them. While you are going for more out of the box build, there are a few easy changes you can make to be a more realistic representation of this great ship. Again, welcome aboard.
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Keith, I purchased some 5mm brass belaying pins which I believe are more accurate to the scale of the ship, but my first attempt to use them was unsuccessful. Meaning, they appeared too small with only 1 mm above and below the pin rack. As such, I'm evaluating my options. I guess I could use thinner material to make the pin rails, but not sure how strong that will be. Also, the width of the pin rail may be an issue. What size of belaying pins are you using? I think I saw somewhere that you (or the other Keith) were going to use 5mm pins. My next project is to build an all new not from the kit capstan. I've been avoiding this project as I'm not sure where to start or how to proceed. All part of the learning process. After all, it only took me three editions of the deck skylights to get a version that I was happy with.
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Today’s challenge, build the battery cover, aka the base of the capstan. Getting it to fit correctly and snap in place was a bit of a chore, but a nice fit in the end. Oh, and I imagine the work table was a place to review charts as well as work on equipment. My wife suggested placing a map on the table. So I printed a small map of Terror Bay...
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Keith, thanks! I missed that detail. Thankfully I have nothing glued, so won’t be a problem to fix. So no hoops above the trestle tree, are the battens needed? Also, without the top, how does one attach the upper shrouds? Just planning for future rigging problems...
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Oh, and happy new year everyone! 🎉 🎊
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Good evening everyone, I’ve started work on the Mizen mast following James Lee’s instructions. Most things make sense, thanks to both Keith’s (clearway and KeithS) great examples. My question is regarding the battens, the eight small strips of wood above the hounds, with a length of 3/5 up the head, with the purpose to “protect the rigging from touching the iron hoops or chafing the mast head.” Does this mean that there should be a at least two, maybe more, hoops above the hounds? OcCre’s plans do not show this, no surprise, but should be easy enough to add if that is what should be there. Keith and Keith, is this how you understand this phrase?
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A little more work on the deck structures.
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Thank you! WOW! There is so much in this book that I'm not sure what to do with all of it, and I've only read the first two pages! Thus a few questions... For the Taper Ratio of the fore and main masts, after year 1800: heel 5/6; first quarter 60/61; second quarter 14/15; third quarter 6/7; hounds 4/5; and head 3/4. Does this mean that the mast will have a bit of an hour glass shape? If I'm interpreting this correctly, which there is a good reason to believe I'm not, if I have a 7mm fore mast, then the following dimensions at the specified location would be: heel 5.83mm; first quarter 6.9mm; second quarter 6.5mm; third quarter 6mm; hounds 5.6mm; and head 5.25mm? Does this mean that from bottom to top there is a 1.75mm diameter change? If so, that certainly is enough to notice and worth doing...right? Daniel
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Keith, I started to "review" gloss over the book and realized that I don't know what "Class" of ship the Terror is, which is apparently important to lookup mast sizes, etc. How does one figure this out? Is it in the book? If so, I've yet to come across that. It seems that the Class 10 calculations seem to work out closest to what you and the other Keith have said about the mast diameter. I'm not trying to prove you wrong, please don't take it that way, I'm just trying to follow along and come to the same conclusions as you both did. Daniel
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Exciting day, I finally received my copy of James Lee's The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860! This book can range from $50-$350 US, so I waited and looked, was patient (at least for me) and finally found one in the states for $80. Thank you ClearWay for pointing me to the AbeBook store as that is where I finally was able to find one close to where I live. Now to find time to read it...
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Thanks for all the views and likes everyone. Today in the shipyard I finished building the 10 spoke ships wheel that I obtained from from syrenshipmodelcompany.com. This is an upgrade from the 8 spoke wheel that comes in the kit, but we know from the discovery of the Terror that she has a ten spoke wheel. The kit from Syren is wonderful, just be patient and take your time building it. Took me several hours, each! But worth it in the end.
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Today I took the plunge and painted the stern structures white. Now trying to decide to leave the door knobs gold or chemically tarnish them black...
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Chuckle....I know what you wrote is English, but I’m going to have to do a bit of nautical research to have any clue in what you said. I would not want to miss understand a “spanker-boom sheet.” Sorry, just caught me off guard.
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Keith, have you completed the work on your masts? Any good pictures of them? While I'm not there yet, I am planning. Keith S already has me ordering larger dowels for the main and mizzen masts and told me about the change in upper shrouds that I should consider, changing them to chain if I recall correctly. Have you discovered any other major changes? I'm still very new at ship building, but willing to learn. My first attempt at getting a copy of James Lee's book has failed as I'm looking for a copy already in the US. But I won't give up. Thanks, Daniel
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To help with the "starkness" of the white, I think I might try a bit of black or brown wash to tone down the white a bit and to highlight the detail on the doors. If it doesn't work, I can paint it white again, my airbrush setup if fairly quick. Daniel
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It’s been a long week at work so little progress on the deck works. I did finish the second stern building. A little more sanding and then ready for paint. I think I will be true to the Terror and paint them white. I could always make new versions...
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As with other Terror builders, I have come to the dilemma of painting the stern deck structures white (more historically accurate from what I can find) or to stain them like the other deck structures will be. It's a lot of hard work making these little houses just to cover them up with paint. Keith S and clearway choses to stain theirs and they look great. Do I chose to make them blend in with the other deck structures or paint them white (historically more accurate) but take the chance that they will stick out like a sore thumb. Thoughts and opinions appreciated...
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I’ve discovered that building small things is not an easy task. This is the first of two structures on the stern to build. These structures are not a part of the OcCre HMS Terror kit and are based on the plans of Dr. Matthew Betts build log.
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The method that VTHokiEE works well, but I have also had good success with a needle threader. Available at most sewing machine and fabric stores for just a few cents. The idea being, push the threader through the hole of interest and create a larger guide on the opposite side of the hole to thread the line (rope) through. Then gently pull the line through the deadeye and repeat.
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