DanielD
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Everything posted by DanielD
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For a rare snow day in the great northwest, I found a little time to finish the deck works around the foremast.
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I would just have the two wires come down through the false keel, on the centerline of the ship, leave them dangle until the planking and sanding is finished. Then install the modified keel with the plates or easier yet, install a two brass display pillars to hook the wires to. Rather way, I’d do the planking and sanding first to get a good smooth hull finish. Need to be careful working around the wires, don’t want to nick or accidentally cut one off, but would be easier than trying to sand down the hull with the keel in place.
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I had this same idea, but I was already committed to my current design. You should be fine creating contacts like this to feed power into the ship. Go for it! I’ll follow along
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Today’s shipyard tales include finishing the forward hatch, installing a smoke stack, and finishing the forward windlass. It’s not bolted to the deck yet, but will be as soon as I have the rest of the hardware in place.
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I think I figured out where all 12 small boats were placed and leaves the davits at the stern free to work on the rudder and propeller. I will apologize in advance if I don’t have the correct terminology for all the locations 😃. Here we go, mid ship between the fore and main mast with another stacked on top (forward green <top> and yellow <bottom> boats in the image). On the timber frame between the main and mizzenmast another pair right side up <green> (as seen in Matthew Betts work), with another pair upside down on top of those <yellow>. That makes six. Then there are 3 pairs of davits along each side of the ship, the forward pair with the bumper you figured out <highlighted blue> then 2 more pair, aft of those (in red of the attached image) with my drawing of boats in blue. So each pair of davits can hold a small boat. So three small boats hanging on each side of the ship, for 6 more, thus a total of 12 small boats. Thoughts?
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Keith very nice work figuring this out! It makes so much more sense now... Now the quandary, do I build more small boats? With one hanging on the stern davits, one upright mid ship, one upside down on top of that, two on the stern racks above the capstan, two over the side on the davits near the stern, and now two over the side mid ship. Well, that accounts for nine of the 12. That’s progress! I like the small boats so I’m inclined to build them...gives some perspective how massive this expedition was.
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Keith, I took a newish square blade and ground it down to just 2mm wide. Then just cut square holes and popped out the plug. Worked well 99% of the time.
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Well, didn’t get a lot of time in the shipyard this weekend, but did finish the second hand pump and a good start on the forward windlass. If you ask the admiral, I spent all day on that one little piece. 😉
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I’ve spent a long time planning and thinking how I would turn a simple hand pump into the switch that turns on/off the the lights and the steam engine driven propeller. Today those hours of planning worked out! The following image and video shows the function of the now working switch. Oh happy day! IMG_2478.MOV
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Wow, 12 boats? I didn’t know that! I’ll have to get some more.
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While building this small boat, the instructions are a little shy on the length of the oars, actually, the instructions just say craft an oar. I went looking for 1800’s oar examples and I came across a formula on how to set the length of the oar. I had no idea that such a formula existed. 1/2 the boat beam, times 3 plus 6”. I converted the 6” to mm and in my scale (1/75)...6*25.4/75=2mm. The beam of my small boat is 32mm, so ((32 / 2) * 3) + 2 = 50mm. I made the length of my oars 50mm, and I think they match the scale of the small boat perfectly.
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Today in the shipyard, I took a break from the Terror and tried my hand building a small boat. In this case, I built a Kolderstok small boat, which is nearly the exact size as the cast metal small boat included in the Terror kit. This will be the first of three life boats that I'll include on this model, well...maybe four, we shall see. Also, I built a sled, similar to the one that is described on Dr. Betts building Terror website. I think it will be a nice addition to this kit.
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A little more work happening in the shipyard, today with the smoke stack for the steam engine. I was not happy with the version of the stack that came in the kit with the seams nearly 1mm thick. At the same time, I don’t really have anything around the yard that will lend well to a new stack. So I took the kit version and sanded down the seams to just a hint of what they were and then chemically blackened it with a new trap door at its base.
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In the shipyard today I finally hooked up the tiller/rudder to the wheel. Took a bit to get the shives to work smoothly, but works great in the end. To make the thread pull easily through the shive, I waxed a heavy thread, put through the hole of the shive, then pulled the string back and forth several times lightly sanding the hole and getting some wax rubbed in. Once I did this step, the finished thread/rope now pulls easily, almost as if there was a real pulley installed. Thanks for looking everyone. FullSizeRender.mov
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Finally finished with the mid ship pumps and winch drums. Was a chore but finally succeeded in getting the pump drive shaft working. Now onto something else IMG_2452.MOV
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Keith, I discovered my error while building my second fife rail, the one with the curve. However, I had already drilled holes in the deck for the first posts and to put the rail on the other side of the posts without hitting the mast, i would have a couple spare holes in the deck. I decided to leave the posts where they were with the rife on the "wrong side." I know its incorrect, but still looks better then what the kit says to do. I hope to finish all this gear around the main mast soon, its delicate work and im ready to move on... One question, in the original drawings around the main mast there are some short lines, several dashes. What are these lines meant to depict? Tie downs maybe?
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It’s been a few days since my last post, I ran into a bit of trouble. While working on the pumps mid ship, I drilled through the deck and wouldn’t you know it, I hit one of the electrical wires to 1/2 the ships lighting. So with half of the ship not working as designed I was a bit disheartened. It took a bit, but I was able to remove one deck plank without damaging it or the planks around it. I then found the broken wire, and performed micro surgery with a soldering iron through just 5mm of space, repaired the wire, and reinstalled the plank. All is back to normal and progress can begin again.
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Today was a day of, well, fixing a couple things before moving forward. I updated the mid ship pin rail to have a curve, more like the real Terror and less like the kit. I changed up the pin rail at the base of the mizzenmast, my first one was store bought and using the belaying pins that came with the kit; however, these pins are just way too big for this model, so I hand made a new version for the 5mm pins I’m using for this build. Also started the paint job on the mizzenmast and a few touch ups along the way. Thanks for taking a look everyone. My next task is to make the bands that go around the mast. The bands for the Terror are metal, not rope. What have you used to represent these metal bands? I’ve heard black construction paper works... thoughts or other options? If you used paper, what thickness works best?
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Keith, many thanks for the pictures! They really do help. I will go review Matthew Betts work again (I’ve looked at it so much I think I can recite it verbatim, not really, but if feels that way sometimes), before I remake my set. I’m also not happy with my hatch just forward of the capstan. In Dr. Betts build log, the two hatches are different height, I think this is an easy fix and will make the necessary adjustments. i did get a pair of flywheels, but I’m not happy with them. I like the ones you have so I will try to get a pair of those. Last time I attempted to get a pair from Ozark, there was something that made me think I was looking at the wrong part, I thought it was too small. But hard to tell as there was no actual dimensions. So I went to my local model train store and found something I thought I could make work... alas, it’s not working out well. I’m nearly finished with my capstan, just want to square out the holes for the handles, but still working out how I’m going to do that. I made the head (top) of the capstan in one piece on my lathe, basically not split so couldn’t make square cutouts like Dr. Betts did on his. i echo your comment on the close up images, one minute I think things look great, then I take a close up to post on the log, and I find each dust partial and every minute flaw looks like a huge blunder. oh, and I love what you did with the crank handle, looks like the real thing. i don’t like how OcCre mounted the pump shaft, both you and the other Keith mounted on the side of the post. What did you make the bracket out of? Well, that’s what I get for never having set foot on any kind of sailing vessel, I am just now learning how all this stuff works. Again, thanks for all the info, I appreciate your help.
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Keith, I bought my belaying pins, as well as most of my supplies, from ageofsales.com. They have always been fast shipping and great on the phone when I have a question. They are in California, not sure if they ship international, but worth a look. I noticed the curved pin rack last night after I finished the one I made, but it’s not glued in so I already planned to redo it. I’m confused about all the stuff going on around the main mast, the pumps, the other equipment just forward off the mast... I’m just not clear what I’m trying to make. I did a bit of research last night, but hard to research something when you don’t know what a device is called or what it does... for example, in the original drawing in your previous post, the device that has two (what looks like thread spools) just forward of the main mast. What is this piece of equipment? What is it used for? Oh, and I hope you had a good new year!
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Well, I built my first pin rack with 5mm brass belaying pins. They are the correct scale for this model, but very small, not sure how useful this will be😬. The wood pins supplied in the kit are 10mm and way too big. A compromise might be 8mm brass pins as clearway is doing; however, I would need to order more at a cost of about $30 US. Just not sure it’s worth it, so will try to make the ones I have work. Now for a little stain...
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