DanielD
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Everything posted by DanielD
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Good evening all! Here is an update on my main mast with a paint job and a few new pieces added.
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Hello all, I’ve not posted in awhile as I’ve been working on the main mast. It’s taking a lot longer than I thought! There is so much to build, I had no idea. I’ve been using Lee’s book as my main reference, but also a big thanks to Keith and Keith S for their build logs to help me along the way. My mast is not nearly finished, but the main structure is set.
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The HMS Terror and Erebus each had on board two 6 pound signal cannons. Here is my attempt to pay homage to those cannons. They sure are tiny!
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Today in the shipyard I took on the task of the bowsprit. Using the dimensions from Lee’s book, this is what I came up with. And thanks Keith for your help setting me straight.
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Keith, thank you! I missed that detail. When I went back and looked, it was right there. Next question, I’m having trouble figuring out what is the overlap between the bowsprit and the jibboom. Part of my problem is that I don’t know the terminology, but I’m learning. Thanks for all your help! Update: I found the reference to the distance I’m looking for “one third the length of the jibboom from the cap.” My jibboom is 134mm, so I will install the saddle at 45mm from the cap. Problem solved!
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Keith and Keith, I started planning my bowsprit and jibboom, basing my information on Lee’s book. I am using the dimensions for the Frigate 10th Class. My first conundrum is the bowsprit per Lee’s book should be 29’ 0” (25.4mm*12”*29’/75scale=118mm); however, the kit plans lists 162mm as the length. This is a large discrepancy, 44mm! The jibboom however is right on, according to Lee, should be 33’ 0” (25.4mm*12”*33’/75scale=134mm) and the kit lists 130mm, just 4mm difference. So...build per Lee’s book? Other things to add/change 1) the heel of the jibboom is squared not round, 2) add sheaves to both ends of the jibboom, the heel sheave was cut athwartships and the outer end cut up and down, 3) create a nice looking rigging stop at the outer end of the jibboom (see attached images). Well, I’m thinking of following Lee’s book, I’m just a little worried about the 44mm discrepancy. How much will this affect other things on the boat.... Upon further evaluation, is seems that almost all classes of ships have a shorter bowsprit vs jibboom (jibboom around 5-12% longer), so the Terror kit must be wrong as it has a longer bowsprit by almost 25%.
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Keith, thanks for the kudos! I ordered a new bell from ageofsail.com (SHIPS BELL IN POLISHED BRASS (6MM, AM4140/06)). As far as reading glasses, they are a must!
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For a rare snow day in the great northwest, I found a little time to finish the deck works around the foremast.
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I would just have the two wires come down through the false keel, on the centerline of the ship, leave them dangle until the planking and sanding is finished. Then install the modified keel with the plates or easier yet, install a two brass display pillars to hook the wires to. Rather way, I’d do the planking and sanding first to get a good smooth hull finish. Need to be careful working around the wires, don’t want to nick or accidentally cut one off, but would be easier than trying to sand down the hull with the keel in place.
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I had this same idea, but I was already committed to my current design. You should be fine creating contacts like this to feed power into the ship. Go for it! I’ll follow along
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Today’s shipyard tales include finishing the forward hatch, installing a smoke stack, and finishing the forward windlass. It’s not bolted to the deck yet, but will be as soon as I have the rest of the hardware in place.
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I think I figured out where all 12 small boats were placed and leaves the davits at the stern free to work on the rudder and propeller. I will apologize in advance if I don’t have the correct terminology for all the locations 😃. Here we go, mid ship between the fore and main mast with another stacked on top (forward green <top> and yellow <bottom> boats in the image). On the timber frame between the main and mizzenmast another pair right side up <green> (as seen in Matthew Betts work), with another pair upside down on top of those <yellow>. That makes six. Then there are 3 pairs of davits along each side of the ship, the forward pair with the bumper you figured out <highlighted blue> then 2 more pair, aft of those (in red of the attached image) with my drawing of boats in blue. So each pair of davits can hold a small boat. So three small boats hanging on each side of the ship, for 6 more, thus a total of 12 small boats. Thoughts?
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Keith very nice work figuring this out! It makes so much more sense now... Now the quandary, do I build more small boats? With one hanging on the stern davits, one upright mid ship, one upside down on top of that, two on the stern racks above the capstan, two over the side on the davits near the stern, and now two over the side mid ship. Well, that accounts for nine of the 12. That’s progress! I like the small boats so I’m inclined to build them...gives some perspective how massive this expedition was.
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Keith, I took a newish square blade and ground it down to just 2mm wide. Then just cut square holes and popped out the plug. Worked well 99% of the time.
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Well, didn’t get a lot of time in the shipyard this weekend, but did finish the second hand pump and a good start on the forward windlass. If you ask the admiral, I spent all day on that one little piece. 😉
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I’ve spent a long time planning and thinking how I would turn a simple hand pump into the switch that turns on/off the the lights and the steam engine driven propeller. Today those hours of planning worked out! The following image and video shows the function of the now working switch. Oh happy day! IMG_2478.MOV
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Wow, 12 boats? I didn’t know that! I’ll have to get some more.
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While building this small boat, the instructions are a little shy on the length of the oars, actually, the instructions just say craft an oar. I went looking for 1800’s oar examples and I came across a formula on how to set the length of the oar. I had no idea that such a formula existed. 1/2 the boat beam, times 3 plus 6”. I converted the 6” to mm and in my scale (1/75)...6*25.4/75=2mm. The beam of my small boat is 32mm, so ((32 / 2) * 3) + 2 = 50mm. I made the length of my oars 50mm, and I think they match the scale of the small boat perfectly.
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Today in the shipyard, I took a break from the Terror and tried my hand building a small boat. In this case, I built a Kolderstok small boat, which is nearly the exact size as the cast metal small boat included in the Terror kit. This will be the first of three life boats that I'll include on this model, well...maybe four, we shall see. Also, I built a sled, similar to the one that is described on Dr. Betts building Terror website. I think it will be a nice addition to this kit.
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A little more work happening in the shipyard, today with the smoke stack for the steam engine. I was not happy with the version of the stack that came in the kit with the seams nearly 1mm thick. At the same time, I don’t really have anything around the yard that will lend well to a new stack. So I took the kit version and sanded down the seams to just a hint of what they were and then chemically blackened it with a new trap door at its base.
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In the shipyard today I finally hooked up the tiller/rudder to the wheel. Took a bit to get the shives to work smoothly, but works great in the end. To make the thread pull easily through the shive, I waxed a heavy thread, put through the hole of the shive, then pulled the string back and forth several times lightly sanding the hole and getting some wax rubbed in. Once I did this step, the finished thread/rope now pulls easily, almost as if there was a real pulley installed. Thanks for looking everyone. FullSizeRender.mov
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Finally finished with the mid ship pumps and winch drums. Was a chore but finally succeeded in getting the pump drive shaft working. Now onto something else IMG_2452.MOV
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