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Everything posted by DanielD
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Good evening mates, time for another hull update. I have to say I have discovered my favorite way to adhere the second layer of planking! Okay, I didn’t”discover” this method, but it is the first time I have used it, and might I say it was glorious. The method I’m speaking of is what OcCre calls for in the instructions, using contact cement. Using this method one applies the rubber like glue to both surfaces, wait until it dries, then press the two pieces together with pressure for an immediate permanent adhesion. What I loved about contact cement, it was not messy, was dry while I set the pieces in place and was quick (immediate) adhesion, like CA glue without the mess. What I didn’t like was the smell. The admiral sent me to the garage for this task with the outside door open, you know, good ventilation per the instructions. I’m very pleased with the results. Only the starboard side done, but good progress.
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Good evening mates, another hull update. I have finished the first planking layer, sanded, filled some cracks, sanded again and now it’s ready for the second and final plank layer. After all the pounding, gluing, and sanding, I’m happy to report that all the electrical still works! Now to figure out the best adhesive to adhere the thin planks. I have used PVA and CA glue in the past. Both are messy. The PVA glue is more wet and warps the thin planks and is fairly slow drying so slow progress with the time I have to work on project. CA glue is fast, but makes the wood hard and difficult to sand and in this case I need to sand, fill, and repeat until very smooth to simulate a metal finish.. The instructions call for contact cement. Coat the hull and a few planks, let dry, and press into place for a permanent adhesion. I’ve never tried this method…anyone have experience with this contact cement? Clearway suggested Evo-stick fast setting wood glue, which may work, but still takes an hour ish to set and I only have an hour or so a few nights a week to work in the ship yard, so this might be too slow to make good progress. Other ideas appreciated.
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Hi Keith, good to hear from you. I do plan to use the kit supplies second planking as the Amerigo Vespucci is a metal hulled ship so the quality of wood I use is not critical. I will have to fill in any imperfections and sand very smooth and paint with filler primer, sand again, paint again, then add the detail rivets and supports all before final paint. A slow process for sure. Daniel
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VitusBering, that is a very good question and the answer is yes/no. Let me explain, (No) I am not planning on having any capability to replace a LED. But, (Yes) 1) I am taking steps to protect the LEDs by making sure they all are matched with resisters to protect from overloading the LED, 2) I am running less voltage and thus leas than the maximum current so LED is not likely to fail, and 3) I am using voltage regulators that relatively slowly go from zero to maximum set voltage so as to not shock the LED. Basically, I should get 30+ years or more out of the lighting based on how often I will actually have the display on. If a LED goes out, I can evaluate based on location if it’s even worth it to fix. For example, the night up lighting is important for the look of the ship (the green, white, red look of the Italian flag) and those are easy to access and replace. The LEDs inside the structures or in the hull, I doubt if anyone besides me will notice.
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Good evening mates, it’s been awhile since my last post, not because I haven’t been working on the AV, but because what I’ve been working on is not visual progress. I’ve been working on the last major lighting project that I have planned for my Amerigo Vespucci, the port hole lighting. My goal is to attempt to light the lower decks similar to what occurs in real life, meaning, not all the lower deck lights will be on at the same time (see image below). My plan is to light two sets of port holes. I can have one set on, or the second set, or if I choose, both sets which will light all of the port holes. I am planning on some deck planks between each set of lights to prevent light bleeding from one level to the next…just not made it that far yet. Thanks for stopping by.
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Mike, in my last ship, the HMS Terror, I had a similar mishap. I routed the wires just under the deck, then later I drilled through the deck for some piece of equipment and severed a line. Had to remove a plank and perform micro soldering to fix. I don’t want a repeat of that so I have routed all my wires away from the deck and any walls. Good lesson for us all.
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Good evening everyone, this weekends update. I have the marker lights all wired up and working. The only thing missing from this circuit is the lantern on the mizzen mast. Not sure how to build a lantern or purchase one for the correct period style and in the right scale…More work to do on this front.
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Good evening mates, I finally took the plunge and organized the wires that make this ship work. I used some terminal blocks I had on hand to make the distribution bus, I know, a bit over kill but it’s the engineer in me. I purchased two usb-c terminal blocks, one for the ship that I will install along the keel which will be mostly hidden. The other usb-c terminal will be in the base. When this idea was first suggested, I was excited to finally have a clean solution to get the the power onboard. What I didn’t expect is that a standard high speed usb-c cable is not “straight through”, well, actually I expected the transmit and receive wires to be crossed, but the rest was unexpected. Not only is the cable wired differently if one swaps the ends, but also different when one flips one or both ends, making 6 different wiring combinations. Basically, I wired for only one of the six potential options, which means my cable will only work one way, if I swap the ends or flip one or both of the ends, it will not work. I will be marking which end of my cable goes to the ship and base respectively. With that done, my power cable is all working. Now to finish the lighting.
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Mike, I’m not sure what doors you are referring to. I’ve not seen any images or other information that suggests any other access to the ship other than the two sets of stairs on both sides that can be adjusted to accommodate the sea wall they dock against which then allows access from the sea wall to the deck. Once on board, there are many water tight hatches to stairs leading to lower decks, several water tight doors into the fire control room, and ornate doors leading to officers quarters and conference rooms that can have a waterproof hatch placed over them in the case of heavy seas. On the other hand, I have seen images where some (or possibly all) of the portholes open, but this would not be for human access. I’ll keep my eyes open other hatches along the hull.
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I’ll look and see, but as I recall I bought them from a store in California. I wanted a metal housing and when I called this place, the guy that answered the phone was very helpful, knew exactly the part I was talking about among the 100s of parts he had on his website, and answered my questions without hesitation. So I bought them from him and they arrived in a few days. They came with 12v bulbs, but not LED…but a clear 3mm LED fits nicely inside and looks amazing when lit. I looked at the RB Model link that VitusBering listed above, and it has the same ones I bought near the bottom, see image below. I bought the second one in the list as the inside diameter is slightly more then the 3mm LEDs I’m using.
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Hello all, I have a couple of updates, one of which I could use a little help. First, the last, for now, update on the chart room. Paint and lighting all finished, but still have to complete the second level. Next, I’m struggling a bit with the scale of side marker lighting. In the same image as the chart room is my second attempt, this one made in brass. I think I have the shape close, see second image of the real AV port marker and housing, but I’m not sure about the scale. I have no measurements or drawings, just building by sight and this image I found on line. Clear images of the side marker lighting are very hard to find. I only have two and this is the better of them. What is your opinion? Side marker look okay or a bit too big?
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