gulfmedic1

thanks for the nice words Pete
I remember someone saying to basically stay ahead of the build, as I was looking at my build last night getting ready to finish fairing the hull kind of getting my plan in place, I noticed a couple of things with the sizes of some of the pieces. Then I remembered one of the Phantom builds the builder made his own gratting (think thats the right word) because the size was off scale
can someone point me to a web link, or a link in here so i can review scale. I know its more than just 1:to whatever number i think there is a conversion in there somewhere.
I dont want this to just be "My first build" I want to do it right

Just beautiful u have a great gift

hey Max thanks, and yes you were the person I was talking about, sorry I couldnt remember your name. Yes your in put helps a lot. maybe I am being to OCD but i really would like to stay as true to the build as possible, as stated eventhough its my first I really want it done right. thanks for the explanation, its hard getting information on this vessel. I am trying to pick items that I am confident are true to scale for reference but its hard. Do you know her life size demensions I cant find it.
 also I found this link I thought was cool, the builder put two flags i didnt see in my kit.
on is the red white flag which means " i have a pilot on board" the other is the "follow me flag" i think im going to put those on her when its complete.
 
http://www.olsonhistoricshipmodels.com/forSale/phantom/index.htm
 
Max
i found this conversion calculator not sure if its accurate but it seems to be right
 
http://jbwid.com/scalcalc.htm

trip
I originally got the laser for that exact reason to help with the waterline. While I was markin the hull I kept thinking man I hope Im true on these lines, looked over saw the laser and that little lightbulb went off ha ha

looks good

wooo hoooo pirate ship

By the way, here are pictures of the first ship I just completed.  This is the Revell U.S.S. Constitution 1:196 scale.  It is the small one.  I did not paint it much.  I focused more on putting it together.  As you can see, I had problems with my ties (forgot what those are called) for the sails.  Plus, I did not put as many ties the instructions said to on some of the sails.  I have no idea how they thought I could fit that many holes and ties on some of those sails. 
 
My top cannons kind of all cockeyed, but I think I can do my next ones correctly now that I know about the tweezers.  I did figure out that if something does not fit in a hole then you have to get creative to make it fit, such as dig out the hole to be bigger or thin down the piece that is going into the hole to make it fit.  Basically, I really winged it on this ship, since I did not have any help yet.  I sure am thankful I will help with this next one. 
 

 

 

The filler blocks were next. I used a scroll saw to first cut out the blocks, finishing them with a carving knife and lots of sandpaper. I found that gluing sand paper to a piece of 1 inch PVC made contouring the curve in the transom much easier.
 
I superimposed scanned images of the plans on pictures of my work using Photoshop to check my work.

trip
I originally got the laser for that exact reason to help with the waterline. While I was markin the hull I kept thinking man I hope Im true on these lines, looked over saw the laser and that little lightbulb went off ha ha

The scale on this model does not lend itself to much fine detail.  I wanted to add a drive chain to the winch, but was unable to find anything that small.  I opted (at the suggestion of my son) to wrap some thread around the sprockets to simulate a drive chain, or belt.  At least it fills in that space between the parts.
 
Once all the glue and paint was dry I mounted it on the Forecastle as indicated on the plans.

Hi shipmates.
 
A little update from the Fitting shop...
 
The creew reminded me of a important issue.
 
What if we get a leak in the hull, or need to pump out some water ?
 
Didnt think of that ....
 
Ok, i had to make them a pump then.
 
Then some smart engineer asked for some light when it gets dark outside on those late summer nights...
 
Børge

Having previously posted a question about a mysterious object on the aft deck, next to the steering box, I decided to go back over the photos of the original ship and see if there was anything I could do to improve the overall look of the model.
 
The Admiral made a comment that the rigging line for the anchors look, “Phony,” in her opinion.  She said it would look better if there was chain instead of, “Thread.”  Since we needed to go to Michael’s for some needles, for her, I went along and took a look in the bead and jewelry making aisle.  Found some chain that looked promising.  Got the chain and a package of small Jump Rings to attach the chain to the anchors.
 
I also noted on the original photos the placement of a Chain Box on the Foredeck, next to the Winch Motor Housing.  If I was going to use chain then I would need a place to stow the extra.  The Chain Box was made from some scrap wood that had laser cut parts.
 
I think the overall affect looks pretty good considering the scale.
 
In the photos I have of the original Bluenose, there is a rack of barrels on the aft deck just ahead of the main cabin.  This kit does not supply, much less mention, any barrels on deck.  Improvising, I found some barrels of the appropriate size and fabricated a barrel rack.  Once it was completed and glued to the deck I fixed in some eye bolts and lashed the barrels down.
 
So here is a series of photos of the original ship’s deck and my completed rendition.  I hope it meets with your approval.

READ – READ – READ – THEN DOUBLE CHECK!
While I was preparing to cut out the stem and stern reinforcement blocks I discovered that the stern blocks, numbers 15, 16, 17, and 18, are mislabeled on the plans.  I made a pencil correction on the plans and the wood parts then cut everything.  Once I had all the blocks sanded and squared they went into place very nicely.
 
I finished tapering and blending the false keel, bulkheads, and reinforcement blocks.  I checked the tapering on the false keel with the keel to make sure it blended into the keel.  Made some minor adjustments to the keel to ensure a good fit across the false keel then glued the keel to the false keel.
 
It was at this point that my 5 year old granddaughter saw what I was doing and asked if she could see it.  I didn’t think she would break it so I let her look.  She very dutifully studied the construction then asked, “What is it?”
 
I showed her the photo on the front of the kit box and she brightened up and said, “Oh.  It’s a sailboat!  Will you make me one?”  I have a fan club.  I asked her what she would do with it and she told me she would put it in her bookcase.  That sort of tells me that she realizes it’s not a toy.  Guess grandpa is going to have to build one for her.
 

A little up front disclosure:  Me and paint don't get along real well.  I prefer to use natural wood and only paint when I have to.  I have experimented with (and used almost exclusively on my SULTANA) India ink.  I have also used colored wood dyes.
 
    That having been said, I like acrylic because it allows (in my experience) more color variations.  By using the artist acrylics thinned with water you can get more earth tones and toned down colors rather than the very bright colors you get with many enamels. 

thanks for the in put i forgot to mention its bass wood, at least i think so it came with the phantom kit

Well all i am back at it, I started cutting the wood for the launchways, I have decided to do that for now then get back to the ship. I have started to get ready to trim the keel, I am going to use the process that Hopefull did, by using the 1/8x1/8 wood and center it and use it as a guide to fair the keel.
I do have a question, for a 1/8 x 1/8 piece of wood 12 inches long how long do i have to soak it so i can bend it so it will sit on the keel
pics to follow soon

So, after regrouping, moved on with some rigging work.
 
Stepped the foremast and ran the shrouds and backstays. In hind sight, this picture should have been a big red flag that something double plus ungood was gonna happen!
 

 
Some of the references I used for the rigging.  First two are Plans for the model.
 

 

 
I was rather befuddeled about rigging the bowsprit so used Underhill's Masting & Rigging The Clipper Ship & Ocean Carrier to try and sort it out.
 

 
I spent what seemed like weeks reeving those pesky 2.5 mm deadeyes...
 

 
This is about attempt 3 or 4, I think.
 

 
And another attempt...
 

 
Bowsprit has been temporarily installed.
 

 
I have been quite fortunate that my kids have taken an interest in this hobby.  This is my most dedicated apprentice (age 5) - she has her own piece of the model she is responsible for sanding and painting.  {Pardon the curlers...we were preparing for our annual ballet outing}
 

 
 

The pre-scored faux decking was cut to shape using a cardstock template. Mucho care was taken to make sure the centerline of the hull lined up with a crack in the deck. In retrospect, I don't know if this is "correct" but it sure made locating the CL easy for the rest of the build. 
Bending the sheet in two axis-es wasn't too fun, but not as bad as expected. The deck has a camber left-right, as well as being concave from fore-aft. At this scale it is barely noticeable though. But I know it is there
 
The step was covered with a piece of cardstock per Chuck's recommendation. I couldn't really get the gap to be perfect, and eventually settled. Then the waterways were forced in place, which was easier that expected considering it had to be bent edge-wise. 




 
The hull has now assumed a very classy, sleek shape. 
 
The deck stantions (I think that is what they are called?) were then marked, fitted, clipped off long then sanded flush. 

 
The notch for the bowsprit was carefully cut, and a mock bowsprit used and fit into a temporary bits/winch up in the bows. 

 
The caprail was then cut and fitted carefully making sure the bowsprit fits under. The making of the caprail is detailed in the next post, my "FAVORITE PHOTO OF THE ENTIRE BUILD"

Greetings.  The next build for the PHTS Shipyard has arrived.  Attached hereto are photo's of the kit and contents.  We will need to hold off on laying the keel for at least a short while, as the Shipyard Overseer has issued a management directive that states we must launch at least one of our current builds (either the Harriet Lane or the Ranger/ Detector) prior to beginning this one.  Looks like we need to put in some overtime!!!
 
The box cover
 

 
Instructions and contents
 

 
Laser cut pieces
 

 
Looks like one broke - believe it is a part of the windlass.  Will check into what it is supposed to be and decide how to handle.
 

 
My junior apprentice showing the size of the 4 sheets of plans.

 
Looking forward to starting this one!

I feel his pain i looked at the box for two weeks

awesome thanks all
i talked to modelexpo today and i did get the model with paint and tools for 85 they were great and she said my back order should be in stock next monday so ill get it not long after

I will soon be ordering my Phantom from modelexpo, there is a 15 to 30 day wait due to back order.(I am guessing the make it once you order it). I have done a lot of reading and a lot of homework, as well as looked at many of the builds in progress on MSW. With that I have a some questions. I will also be using Chucks practicum, I read it and read the instructions from model expo and can easily see how much added help Chucks practicum will be.
-on log said that the plans and the templets did not match up at all and they went with the plans, if you do this do you just make your own templets from the plans?
- do I just buy the paint from the same place or can anyone recommend another site to get the paints from
-I see that green mat everyone uses is it just a regular work mat or does it have special markings that helps
 
think thats it for now

Looks like a fun build Adrieke, you are a busy man. Is this the advanced version ? Of course will follow this built as well.
 
Regards,
John