jaerschen

Hey Nigel,
Beautiful work ...again. Hopefully the last practice run.
 
Is the Russian Master your referring to Roma's Le Requin as its gun deck gratings are single pinned. His build is the reason I purchase the ANCRE monography. I also love that he nailed the inside of the gun port doors, such a beautiful touch. It definitely deserves it's gold and Roma's passing was a great lose to this hobby.
 
You spoke of shaping, how do you plan to achieve the curvature? I think the single pin/nails is attractive, two is boarder line crazy, but we already know that    
 
 
By the way here is Roma's work, may he RIP.
 
gunports
 
 
gun deck grating
 
 
Look at this - 4 pinned masterpiece
 

hi all
the glazing has now been installed in the case and the back panel temporarily placed in position.
 im waiting for a particular item to be delivered from across the pond in order to complete the back panel......all will be revealed in good time.
 
since ive got a few days off i shall take some construction photos of the case construction, esp for kees   as he asked , but it may be of interest generally.
 
cheers for now.....mick

hi all
this will be the last post with regards to this little sloop. its been a fun build and a learning curve. there are still a few things to do namely rope coils for rigging points,and a brass plaque for the pedastal,which has been sent away for engraving. i will start the case next week whilst i have some free time.....no work for a week....yipee!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks for all the likes and positive encouragement.
 
cheers....mick

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 93 – Main Deck Framing 4
 
The two large fresh water tanks needed to be permanently installed before the main deck framing could be completed.  The first photo shows these two tanks in place.
 

 
The tanks were iron and rest on heavy wood bases in the hold over the keelson.  These bases were shown in earlier posts.  The tanks were made from cardstock glued on to wood blocks.   The picture also shows  tops of the lower sections of the bilge pump suction piping just forward of the tanks.   The next picture shows the run of these pipes down to the limber channel.
 

 
The pipes are copper tube.  The upper sections between these pipes and the pumps on the main deck will be installed later.  The 4”x4” dunnage timbers on the base for the forward tank can be seen in this picture – taken before setting the tanks - just aft of the pipes.  The main mast step can be seen just forward of the pipes.  (This was shot at an aperture of F32 and very slow shutter – much better field depth vs. the pictures in last post.)
 
In the next picture the framing in the midship area is approaching completion.
 

 
All of the full beams have been installed in this picture including their hanging knees and pillars.  In the picture the headers for the main hatch - with scores cut for the half beams - have been fit as well as the main mast partner carlings.  In the next picture the framing over the tanks has been completed and the last pillar under one of the half-beams is being test fit. 
 

 
All of the pillars are pinned with copper wire bolts top and bottom.  The fitting of this last pillar finishes the deck beam setting.  The next picture shows the hull with the main deck framing at this stage.
 

 
Next will come the lodging knees for all these beams and the ledges – but first a few housekeeping items needed to be taken care of.  One of these was literally a housecleaning of the workshop that might be partially noticeable in the above picture.  This tidying up also included installing 10 dozen or so functional copper wire bolts with epoxy to further secure the main deck beams and knees.  One of these is being installed in the next picture.
 

 
There are two at the end of each beam – one through the beam into the clamp and one through the beam into the hanging knee.  The other task was to apply wax finish to all of the structure from the middle deck up to just below the main deck beams.  This cannot be done easily after the ledges are installed. 
 
The deck framing has not been sanded at this stage as might be noticed.  This will be done once after all of the ledges are installed.
 
Ed

Hello,
thanks for the kind words.
This component I have now burnished.
I think it looks better.

 

 

Hello,
 
thanks for the nice comments.
Another small detail has been made ​​for the French corvette.
It is a roller on the Main deck .
This is fixed in front of the main mast on the open Main deck .
The making of this steering roller (height approx. 8 mm) was performed in three parts, which I turned on my little lathe. The roller was made of brass.

 

 
    

For what purpose this roller was used precisely, is what I can only guess.
Because it is in the context with the guide rollers (tourniquet), I see a connection there with the messenger.
I also hope on the expertise of one or the other on the forum that explain this more detailed

 


To be continued ...

Thanks all, good quality chisels and keeping then very very sharp helps a lot...
Robin I used the watering marking on my body plan to establish the position of the marks
 
Next up the rudder, my first attempt to cut 'simple'  tabs that go all the way from side to side failed. I had to much tear out from the mill, even with a backing piece of wood. So back to the chisels and I made the proper altering tabling.
 

 
Cut to size with the table saw and scroll saw, tarring simulated with thin black paper
 

 

 
Tapered with a big bench plane
 

 
The square hole  at the top tapers from fore to aft. Next up the pintles.
 
Remco
 
 

Hi juergen
Thank you....its a learning curve all the way. If it turns out a fraction as good as your full triton build, magnificent by the way, I shall be very happy.
Full hull version of triton is very high on my to do list!
Cheers...mick

The Swan Class and then Diana and Pandora all have a different plan for the wale planking so I took a midway between them approach. My wales are roughed in and that has provided much strength to the model. I started yesterday carving out the space between the cant frames to make room for the keelson at each end. Used a Dremmel with a spiral bit to rough cut then sanded for a final tight fit. Next up is sanding down all of the frames to their final inboard shape - this will take a few weeks I'm sure. Will take pictures when I get something done worth showing....
 
Happy modeling to all!
 
Richard

hi all
its about time for an update on the cross section progress. 
unfortunately i got carried away with unbridled enthusiasm and forgot to take any photos of the completed lower deck.
however some of the work can still be seen, as ive left some deliberate gaps in the planking.
photos show current state of play , just about to start the gun deck , and this time i will remember to take some photos!
 
been busy this morning cutting up some holly and boxwood.
 
also purchased a couple of 1mm 3 flute milling cutters. i will need these when i get round to making the ladders, plus they will come in useful generally!
 
might just get some in 1.5,2 2.5 and 3mm to cover a few eventualitys
 
thats all for now folks
 
 
cheers....mick

Fore Tack Step Blocks
 
These are relatively large Blocks which attach to the Boomkins - 14" in real life. I made them from English Box, the pics tell the story :
 

 

 

 

 
Their Strops are served :
 

 
  Danny

Gammoning
 
The Gammoning consists of 9 turns crossing over each other vertically, followed by the same number horizontally to pull it all tight. A couple of half-hitches complete it :
 

 

 
Boomkins
 
The Boomkins were made in similar fashion to the other masts/yards, with the exception that they are curved. I cut them from rectangular stock and "octagonelled" them before sanding them round. They have a step at their outboard ends for the shrouds and Fore Tack Block :
 

 

 
A Capsquare fastens them to the head :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much for looking in again Brian, Allan, Arch, Nils, Grant, and a welcome to George .
 
Work has been continuing on the Bowsprit Rigging.
 
Bobstays
 
These are the equivalent of the Forestays on the other masts. Like all the Bowsprit rigging they are served all over. The inboard ends pass through the foremost holes in the Knee of the Head, and are spliced together :
 

 
Bowsprit Shrouds
 
The equivalent of the Shrouds on the other masts. These are hooked through eyebolts at their inner ends :
 

 

 

 
The outer ends of both the Bobstays and Shrouds finish in a heart block, and are lashed to their respective Collars :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you for the advice, appreciated
I went for the Hegner in the end and ordered it last night, maybe I will never get my head around scratch building, and perhaps never achieve anything of any standard, but as mentioned - it wont be the tools - lol

Thanks so much for the nice comments Daniel and Nigel and also for all the likes.
 
@Daniel
In terms of this Triton build the most are means the double frame is much easier than the single frame. But I believe that isn't so. I think single frame have a great vantage, to get the right shape of the hull is much easier than in double frame. Although single frame is more time consuming. In relation of the optic I'm with you.

A little band saw could be an alternative Kevin. I used them to saw out 90% (ca.) of the frame parts. I put a saw band for slightly curves in it and that worked very well. For sanding I use the same technical as Nigel shows

That's not a bad first attempt at frames.  I think my first frames ran to about 5 before I got the hang of it.  I'm still learning and I still have a certain amount that end up in the scrap bin.  Luckily for me, the scrap bin is always hungry.

Kevin, I admire your willingness to share your journey - warts and all, building frames continues to intimidate me so seeing a less than perfect result is actually quite inspiring - and I do mean that in a positive way. We often only ever see the perfect results so I'm really enjoying seeing you through this process.  Keep at it, you're doing great.
 
All the best

You are very wise Kevin doing some experimentation with your tools before starting 'proper'.One thing to keep in mind is that I doubt there is a builder in existence that makes every piece perfect first time.Don't be discouraged if you find yourself 'feeding' the scrap bin.Making mistakes helps you learn more than doing everything right first time.The beauty of scratchbuilding is it is only another piece of wood,as opposed to a kit part which isn't so easy to replace.
I find using homemade sanding sticks to produce bevels on planks gives you far more control than using a normal sanding block.After trying nearly all the varnishes available in the UK(yes we cannot get half the products mentioned on this forum),I have settled on what Chris Watton uses,Ronseal Ultra tough matt coat.It is very versatile and can also be thinned and sprayed for exceptional results(however you would need something with a decent nozzle size for this,rather than a small airbrush nozzle).
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi
here are photos of the progress before the long break.
 
You can see the first attempt at the first photo based on the MSW drawings. Afterwards it was clear to me that the Frame-Drawings were not suitable for a single frame build.

Here the next photos. There you can see the Ballard-Timbers.

If I fit the transoms I had a big trouble. The reason was a wrong angle at the top-view plan.
On the following photo you can see the correct angle and the discrepancy.

 
If I know that it was possible to fit transoms.







 

Hello guy's
 
I will start my build of the Triton again.
Christian (AnobiumPunctatum) and I are started our builds in 2009. But we built the hull in single frame and not in double frame based of the original drawings (Christians idea). It was originally planned to use the MSW frame drawings. But I realized during the build of the fore cant frames that the MSW frame drawings were not suitable for a single frame build. That's why I had a break for about 4 years. Now I pencilled all the frames new and would like to continue the build of the frames. After the frame build I'll use the MSW drawings for the remaining build.
Now there are some photos from The keel, stern apron etc.
 







 
More photos are following soon

Hello Guys
 
Here's a little update of my build. I install the aft Cant-Frames at the moment. You can see my practice of the following photos. I hate it to do the same for several hours. That's why I decided to produce a Frame, install it and than produce the next Frame and so on. At this way I had a bit of change.
 

 
To saw out the parts I use a band-saw with a special saw band for slightly curves.

 



 
I hope that the next update is showing the finish of the frame build.

Hi,
here the photos of the current progress. It's halftime of the frame build