jaerschen

So who would have thought that for the last two days I've been running around in a short-sleeved shirt outside.  It's been almost 70 degrees F.   Now it's more normal, raining and In the 40's.  Which means, the sawpits have been busy. 
 
Christian, use whatever is useful to you. 
 
Pat, thank you for the nice comment.
 
Aldo.. I've missed seeing you around.  I hope you're doing better. And thanks for the nice comment.
 
George and everyone else, may Christmas be filled with love and warmth and the new year with good things and good times.

A Holiday Greeting
 

Hello,
 
Here's a little update and I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all a Merry Christmas.
I started to fit the ribbands and coloured the Main-Wale black.

 
The ribband-nails are done in the same manner as described in the book from David Antscherl of the Swan-Class. Only the insertion tool was made of a screw and two screw-nuts.

 
For securing the nails I used white clue and think that it works.

 
 
The Main-Wale is coloured with black stain. Mark gave me this advice in my build of the Leopard and it works very well.

Hello,
 
Here's a little update and I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all a Merry Christmas.
I started to fit the ribbands and coloured the Main-Wale black.

 
The ribband-nails are done in the same manner as described in the book from David Antscherl of the Swan-Class. Only the insertion tool was made of a screw and two screw-nuts.

 
For securing the nails I used white clue and think that it works.

 
 
The Main-Wale is coloured with black stain. Mark gave me this advice in my build of the Leopard and it works very well.

Hello,
 
Here's a little update and I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all a Merry Christmas.
I started to fit the ribbands and coloured the Main-Wale black.

 
The ribband-nails are done in the same manner as described in the book from David Antscherl of the Swan-Class. Only the insertion tool was made of a screw and two screw-nuts.

 
For securing the nails I used white clue and think that it works.

 
 
The Main-Wale is coloured with black stain. Mark gave me this advice in my build of the Leopard and it works very well.

Hello,
 
Here's a little update and I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all a Merry Christmas.
I started to fit the ribbands and coloured the Main-Wale black.

 
The ribband-nails are done in the same manner as described in the book from David Antscherl of the Swan-Class. Only the insertion tool was made of a screw and two screw-nuts.

 
For securing the nails I used white clue and think that it works.

 
 
The Main-Wale is coloured with black stain. Mark gave me this advice in my build of the Leopard and it works very well.

Hello,
 
Here's a little update and I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all a Merry Christmas.
I started to fit the ribbands and coloured the Main-Wale black.

 
The ribband-nails are done in the same manner as described in the book from David Antscherl of the Swan-Class. Only the insertion tool was made of a screw and two screw-nuts.

 
For securing the nails I used white clue and think that it works.

 
 
The Main-Wale is coloured with black stain. Mark gave me this advice in my build of the Leopard and it works very well.

Thank you Alistair
 
Red is a very transparent color to paint with.   If you use thin coats it will be somewhat transparent.  I have many more coats and more sanding to get it where I want but it will most likely have some transparency.
 
I found some workshop time....so I finished planking the starboard side.  Its a big milestone but then I look at the port side and have to repeat the entire process, including the square tuck   But it all worked out very well.   Once the other side is finished I can start treenailing.  
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Some flowers for Christmas.
Parts in the first picture are almost longer to prepare than to carve.

Hello,
many thanks for the nice comments.
Lately, here are little progress has been made.
Here are just two pictures of the model.

 


I want to wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

set of oars is complete, trial pulling in the Harbor basin can now be done
 
 
wishing a happy and relaxing Christmas time to all fellow builders, and NMSW Administration staff, and with best regards
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

Thank you, Nils.  The clamps in this picture were either made especially for this task or modified from others.  Although I have a lot of small clamps, none seemed to work well for this.  The clamps are hardwood with soft jaws, to keep from damaging the softened boiled wood.
 
As far as single planking is concerned, I am trying to duplicate the  construction of the original as far as it is known, so all the frames are correctly sized as are the planks - 4" x 6" wide for the common planking, 6" x 6" for the wale.
 
I am using maple for this planking because all will be painted and - if straight grained -  it bends easily.  Also, I have a tons of hard maple cutoffs from past furniture projects.
 
Ed

I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks for the "likes and" comments.
 
Just a break from building here while dimensioning my Swiss Pear supply for this.
 
For hull planking, I'm need 4 sizes of wood:  1/32" X 1/8",  3/32" X 3/16", 1/16" X 1/8" and 1/16" X 3/16".
 
I have an ample supply of planking wood that is  +1/16" X +1/8" and +3/32 X +3/16" that I'm converting down.  I've been testing out my technique on this and sorting things out.  For the first batch of 1/32" X 1/8", what I'll be doing is running it through the thicknesser to get it down to 1/32" (dead on exact) and then running it thought the table saw with a 230T blade to get the exact 1/8" I want..   For those on metric, 1/32" is equal to about 1mm. 
 
I give the raw dimensions as "+" because they're all a tad oversize and the oversize seems to be inconsistent.
 
I'm attaching two pics of the saw with the wood being run through it.  You can see that very little wood is being removed and also how I'm keeping my big paws away from the blade. 
 
I hope to have planking underway pretty soon.  In fact, maybe tomorrow, I'll take a break from dimensioning and do the counter.  Hmmm... I need some ebony for the stern above the lights so I'll have to do that also.
 
 
Overall view: 
 
Close up of blade area: 

Build log part 70
 
 
the little gig is now complete, first prototype for the oars is made
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
oar length appr. 2,3 the max beam width
 
 

 
oar shaft diam. 2mm, made from bamboo, could be a bit less but risk of breaking under rounding the shaft
 
 

 
fits in for the "HMS Pegasus" space on the gallows (in actual it would be a 28 ft gig).
I`ll better have to take off the rudder (hook it out)
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
Nils

It's always a pleasure to see this accurate work Ed

Congrats, a small piece of artwork Nils.

It's always a pleasure to see this accurate work Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 101 – Planking and Wales
 
To conveniently work on the planking below the channels, the hull was inverted as shown in the first picture
 

 
The toptimbers are no longer as vulnerable with the planking installed up to the top so there is minimal risk of damage.  I still use carpet padding as a precaution and have tied the hull down to keep from pushing it off the bench.
 
The next picture shows some of the planking installed at the bow.
 

 
The hull is marked with pencil lines to show the extent of the wale and the load waterline.  I have highlighted the lower edge of the wale in red and the lwl in blue.
 
The wale is 6” thick and there are roughly 20 strakes of 6” wide planks from top to bottom.  The top strake transitions from the 4” common  to the 6” wale planking two strakes below the lower channels.  That break in thickness can be seen in these pictures.  The next picture is a close-up of the “hooding ends.”
 

 
The wale planks are pared down to match the depth of the rabbet.  The treenails are hard bamboo (old garden stakes) – very hard and very dark.  The grain flecks and the color variation in the maple planks is a bit distracting, but all of this planking will be painted.
 
The planking around the stern was done concurrently with that shown above. In the next picture the second strake below the planksheer rail has been curved and is clamped to dry.
 

 
Each of these is boiled for over an hour, clamped as shown below and left overnight to dry.  It can then be glued with a similar clamping arrangement.  This is really a one-step-per-day process.
 
The last picture shows the three strakes below the rail – levelled off but not yet finish sanded.
 

 
 
The next strake will be the transition strake to the wale thickness.  There may be one more circumferential strake  - at the "knuckle" - but the planks below will butt into the last of these.  The ends of the the planks below will bolt into the supporting chocks between the stern timbers.  The chock around the helm port has not yet been fitted.
 
Space is left for the main rail.   The area between this and the lower rail will be decorated with a bas-relief eagle and some s-curved vines.  The words “Young America” then “New York” will be lettered below the lower rail on these lower three planks..
 
  
Ed

My stylised frame design is nearly finshed.
 
As written in JK Lees build log I will now try to design a possible framing for this cutter.
 
All cutter drawings which I know show only double frames.
The drawing of Cheerful 1806 and Racer 1809 show double frames with a spacing on both sides.
The drawing of Speedy 1818 shows normal double frames.
 
So I think that also the two cutters of the Rattlesnake class will also have only double frames.
 
First source for the dimensions of the frame timbers is Steel "The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture, 1805":

(Thanks Druxey for the values)
 
Steel gives a Room and Space of 2ft 2in. The original drawing of Alert only show a Room and Space of 2ft 0in. My first try with this dimensions show that the spacing between the double frames is very small (3.75in).
 
Goodwin gives in his book "The construction and fitting of Sailing Man of War" a factor to calculate the sided dimensions of the frames. If I calculate the sided values with the keel width of 13in, which Steel gives in his book, I get the values of the above table.

 
The original drawing shows only a designed keel width of 10in. So I calculated the sided dimensions of the framing again.
With these values I get a spacing of 8,42in, which is perhaps a little much.
 
edit: I got the infos I searched. Thanks very much.

Congrats to this milestone Mark. I believe about your skill the planking will be easy for you.

It's pretty busy under the mast tops now :
 

 
  Danny

Update on Captain`s gig....
 
 
 
mast holding fittings and bow clues and and some small parts still missing, but at this stage it looks like what I had in mind
 
 
 
 

 
gig fits in on the gallows
 
 

 
the captain saw that the rudder still requires seaworthy varnish
 
 

 
 
 

 
staggered oar-hold port / stb for rowing with long oars, 1 man per seat
 
 

 
two crew members are eager to get her into the harbour basin for trials
 
 

 
the tiller can be slipped in also with the curve upwards
 
 
 
Nils
 
 
 

Hit a big milestone...  framing is complete and ready for planking.  Well, one minor tweak to the transoms to get smooth run to the counter but that's not going to be a stopper.
 
Right now, I'm having second thoughts about the bulk of the planking in Swiss Pear and am considering cherry.   I'll ponder a bit more.....
 

Hello, thanks very much Mick, Allan and Nils
 
That's good to know Mick and Allan. Now I can sleep soundly again.
 
@Nils
I would like to show a bit of everything at the outside. The Main-Wale and below of it 4 rows with shifting planks. Then the 1st futtock- and the floorhead -ribbands and the garboard strake. Above the black-strake I will also plank only a part of the frames but in any case the complete sheer strake. Both sides will be similar. So the theory.