Mirabell61

Hi Levebvre,
the display capacity in my hobby office is exhausted for a longer time ago already. Because I favor a glas-casing for permanent  dust  protection, it takes even more space every time.
Three ships have now already moved to our attic room office for this reason. My wife does not like shipmodels in the living areas of our home, and I have accepted that wish., so the lightship is probably  the last one built in my shipyard. Perhaps there comes an oppertunity for selling the one or other some day for a fair price.
 
Nils

Thank you Lefebvre,
as I`m retired from my profession many years already, I have much time for my hobby. I guess its appr. 15-20 hours per week, but my admiral keeps me going also for house and garden.
 
Nils

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

Update
 
Hull is all smoothened out and aft rounding rails (brass halfround) are mounted. The other rails will be from halfround nutwood strips.
All is ready for metal plating now. Am preparing for railings, starting with forecastle deck. First dry fit for foremast and lightmasttower
 
Nils
 

rounding rails fitted. These are bent to shape, so that there is hardly no stress for springback when glueing on, also to avoid messing with the glue (CA)
 

a bit of wood filler will do to smoothen curves
 

 
 

masts in dryfit
 

checking railing hight, the railing for the forecastle is a special bit ( 400mm length ) I found on the web, as the last available piece. It is of chemical etching and the brass has 0,6mm thickness, that appr. twice the thickness as I used on my Ergenstrasse rails. Unfortunately the source company does not exist any more, what a pitty. This railing type can be inserted into prior drilled holes of 0,8mm diam, and the hight of the top line therefore adjusted to the required hight, I will solder on mini washers as stopper  on to the fastening posts, so that the chosen hight can be permanently fixed for 1:87 H0 figurines after glueing in.
 

I wish I could get more of this railing type Here a dummy with the desired hight
 

here are the fist two templates for the aft round metal plating
 

Hi Levebvre,
the display capacity in my hobby office is exhausted for a longer time ago already. Because I favor a glas-casing for permanent  dust  protection, it takes even more space every time.
Three ships have now already moved to our attic room office for this reason. My wife does not like shipmodels in the living areas of our home, and I have accepted that wish., so the lightship is probably  the last one built in my shipyard. Perhaps there comes an oppertunity for selling the one or other some day for a fair price.
 
Nils

Update
 
Hull is all smoothened out and aft rounding rails (brass halfround) are mounted. The other rails will be from halfround nutwood strips.
All is ready for metal plating now. Am preparing for railings, starting with forecastle deck. First dry fit for foremast and lightmasttower
 
Nils
 

rounding rails fitted. These are bent to shape, so that there is hardly no stress for springback when glueing on, also to avoid messing with the glue (CA)
 

a bit of wood filler will do to smoothen curves
 

 
 

masts in dryfit
 

checking railing hight, the railing for the forecastle is a special bit ( 400mm length ) I found on the web, as the last available piece. It is of chemical etching and the brass has 0,6mm thickness, that appr. twice the thickness as I used on my Ergenstrasse rails. Unfortunately the source company does not exist any more, what a pitty. This railing type can be inserted into prior drilled holes of 0,8mm diam, and the hight of the top line therefore adjusted to the required hight, I will solder on mini washers as stopper  on to the fastening posts, so that the chosen hight can be permanently fixed for 1:87 H0 figurines after glueing in.
 

I wish I could get more of this railing type Here a dummy with the desired hight
 

here are the fist two templates for the aft round metal plating
 

many thanks Richard and John,
 
Richard, the lightmast, still to be finished, was not so easy as I had thought .....
 
John, I`ll do my best for the further build ....
 
Yesterday I made a first dummy trial for painting, plating,  attaching of an obsolete 20 mm high letter. The bright light red color is RAL 2026 in silk-gloss, that is the one used on german fire-brigade and civil rescue vehicles.
 
Nils
 

I am a bit suspicious about the permanent sticking quality of the letters on a structured plating background. In the moment it seems to work ....
The black sub waterline color is a silicone based black thermo-coating paint used for oventubes, etc.
 

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

Hi Levebvre,
the display capacity in my hobby office is exhausted for a longer time ago already. Because I favor a glas-casing for permanent  dust  protection, it takes even more space every time.
Three ships have now already moved to our attic room office for this reason. My wife does not like shipmodels in the living areas of our home, and I have accepted that wish., so the lightship is probably  the last one built in my shipyard. Perhaps there comes an oppertunity for selling the one or other some day for a fair price.
 
Nils

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

Post One Hundred and Sixty – nine
 
Progressing the 24’ cutter
The floor of the cutter is covered by gratings at the stern, open boarded footwaling for the body, and a small close board platform at the bow.

4265
I changed the footwaling to a close boarded version as shown in the AotS book Diana which contains 1:48 scale drawings of a 24’ cutter.
 
Before I add the ‘false’ ribs I use a copy of the kit plan to mark the positions of the thwarts.
Positioning the ribs really needs to take into consideration the position of the thwarts and the related rowlocks for the oars, which are cut into the wash strake.

4268
The AotS drawings show the 24’ cutter arranged for single banked rowing. This is the arrangement I will follow, apart from any other consideration, there are less rowlocks to cut.

4270
I firstly fix only those ribs that fit aft of the thwarts before fixing the Rising, (thwart support strips) The remaining ribs can be slotted behind the Risings in the correct positions.
The risings are fitted using a 4mm depth gauge but in fact follow the line of the second strake down from the top.
 
Once fitted it is useful to check both the levels and the correct height of the thwarts above the footwaling.

4273
My 1:64 scale figures are useful for this purpose.

4275
I would like to see a sitting figure produced by Vanguard. A sitting Captain would serve well to give scale to the splendid Vanguard cabin furniture, and also the stern sheets of the boat range.

4277
I like to add small features to the boats such as here; the cap square for the Mainmast and step to take the mast heel on the Keelson.

4279

4280

4281

4280
Needs cleaning up now before finishing.
 
B.E.
15/04/2024
 
 

Ah yes, it's retirement, and what's more, the admiral seems very cooperative: very nice crew... How do you still find space in your home to display all your windows? 😜

Hello Nils. What wonderful work... that's work!!! How much time do you spend per week modeling to progress so quickly in your achievements? You are very strong. Friendships 😍

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

Update
 
Hull is all smoothened out and aft rounding rails (brass halfround) are mounted. The other rails will be from halfround nutwood strips.
All is ready for metal plating now. Am preparing for railings, starting with forecastle deck. First dry fit for foremast and lightmasttower
 
Nils
 

rounding rails fitted. These are bent to shape, so that there is hardly no stress for springback when glueing on, also to avoid messing with the glue (CA)
 

a bit of wood filler will do to smoothen curves
 

 
 

masts in dryfit
 

checking railing hight, the railing for the forecastle is a special bit ( 400mm length ) I found on the web, as the last available piece. It is of chemical etching and the brass has 0,6mm thickness, that appr. twice the thickness as I used on my Ergenstrasse rails. Unfortunately the source company does not exist any more, what a pitty. This railing type can be inserted into prior drilled holes of 0,8mm diam, and the hight of the top line therefore adjusted to the required hight, I will solder on mini washers as stopper  on to the fastening posts, so that the chosen hight can be permanently fixed for 1:87 H0 figurines after glueing in.
 

I wish I could get more of this railing type Here a dummy with the desired hight
 

here are the fist two templates for the aft round metal plating
 

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

Thank you Lefebvre,
as I`m retired from my profession many years already, I have much time for my hobby. I guess its appr. 15-20 hours per week, but my admiral keeps me going also for house and garden.
 
Nils

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

Thank you Lefebvre,
as I`m retired from my profession many years already, I have much time for my hobby. I guess its appr. 15-20 hours per week, but my admiral keeps me going also for house and garden.
 
Nils

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

many thanks Richard and John,
 
Richard, the lightmast, still to be finished, was not so easy as I had thought .....
 
John, I`ll do my best for the further build ....
 
Yesterday I made a first dummy trial for painting, plating,  attaching of an obsolete 20 mm high letter. The bright light red color is RAL 2026 in silk-gloss, that is the one used on german fire-brigade and civil rescue vehicles.
 
Nils
 

I am a bit suspicious about the permanent sticking quality of the letters on a structured plating background. In the moment it seems to work ....
The black sub waterline color is a silicone based black thermo-coating paint used for oventubes, etc.
 

Update
 
Hull is all smoothened out and aft rounding rails (brass halfround) are mounted. The other rails will be from halfround nutwood strips.
All is ready for metal plating now. Am preparing for railings, starting with forecastle deck. First dry fit for foremast and lightmasttower
 
Nils
 

rounding rails fitted. These are bent to shape, so that there is hardly no stress for springback when glueing on, also to avoid messing with the glue (CA)
 

a bit of wood filler will do to smoothen curves
 

 
 

masts in dryfit
 

checking railing hight, the railing for the forecastle is a special bit ( 400mm length ) I found on the web, as the last available piece. It is of chemical etching and the brass has 0,6mm thickness, that appr. twice the thickness as I used on my Ergenstrasse rails. Unfortunately the source company does not exist any more, what a pitty. This railing type can be inserted into prior drilled holes of 0,8mm diam, and the hight of the top line therefore adjusted to the required hight, I will solder on mini washers as stopper  on to the fastening posts, so that the chosen hight can be permanently fixed for 1:87 H0 figurines after glueing in.
 

I wish I could get more of this railing type Here a dummy with the desired hight
 

here are the fist two templates for the aft round metal plating
 

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on