Egilman

Taming the teenager and their rough edges... {chuckle} If I had the answer for that I would be a billionaire. Seriously though, what is making the edge rough? shouldn't there be a way to arrange the print so both edges are smooth?

Ok, the pins become locators for the side parts as well as attachment points... Mechanically complex with little room for adjustment... Why not a simple ledge structure inset along the edge, on either part, where the side part is simply laid along the edge and glued in place? would look like a square trim block in the corner when standing vertical and would be hardly noticed? Mechanically simple, easily adjustable and will work as locaters much better than pins....

Thanks for responding Rick... Actually, 3D capability has been around for over 40 years, well known in the engineering fields as is additive manufacturing which has been around over 70 years.... It's only natural for the "normal" cad software creators/builders to start adding it to their repertoire's... The real thing is creating a straight workflow from 3D cad to 3D print in small scale to suit the burgeoning 3D printer market... They all want a piece of that market.... And a software designed specifically to create a model and then print to 3D would be a kinda revolution in process, don't be surprised if the larger cad houses take the idea and incorporate it into their software... It is the next logical step.... That being said, we need to get to the crux of what we are doing cause model building, although a large market is still only a niche market... we deal in design with a lot of the same things full sized builders have to in general but there are specifics that only apply to modeling... Most ship models, and models in general, deal with scale... much smaller than real life objects... A 1" plate in RL will only be .005" in scale in some of the scales we work in so compromises in design have to be factored in... Interiors although desirable in some models, are not in many others... (what the point of internal compartmentalization in a 1/350th scale warship for example or at 1/700 scale?) A 1/24th or 48th scale model would easily benefit from it depending on the model, but for most modern type ship models it doesn't... Also, 3D printing has certain requirements, a model has to be a solid body to be accurately printed on the better 3D printers... It doesn't matter what the object being printed is for... (even if it is compartmentalized the compartment walls have to be what is called watertight solid) No edge gaps at all... And this is the biggest issue with 3D software at the present... As long as it was just FDM printing it really wasn't an issue but with the advent of Resin printing it does become an issue. many of the models on the download sites can't be printed on an SLA printer because of this... Not trying to tell you not to proceed nor that it has no value, quite the contrary, your idea has great value and for modeling is to me the next logical step in creating a good workflow... But it has to be based upon real world material/modeling requirements. Some things are just plain too small to be modeled accurately.... (and computer cad can accurately draw/measure down to the fractional mil) Any software that is designed for modeling has to take that into account when considering 3D printing... Resin when fully cured is very brittle and parts that are thin enough to represent say splinter shields on a battleship in 1/350th scale a lot of times get broken before they are even removed from their island bases so that has to be accounted for as well... I will follow with great interest as you proceed, sounds like a great project.... I'm sure there are lots of modelers here with a lot of modeling experience as well as engineering experience that can help with getting the base requirements of a good design software for 3D printing for modeling...

It's coming along, I've had a few RL episodes I've had to deal with so it forced a break in the progress but I'll be ready....

Olive drab will work as long as it is on the greenish side.. the American Mk V's were delivered painted British army green, which dulled down fairly quickly... and they were liberally splattered with brown mud from the moment they hit the field.. (sometimes deliberately) The mud was usually a very rich brown when fresh, and a dark khaki when dry.... They were also usually covered with dust cause they kicked up huge clouds of it in dry conditions...

Yes it's a HUGE shame.... (also another little detail, the collection has been reduced substantially) Many of the vehicles have been sold off to other museums around the world.... Like the Sd kfz 254, one of only three known to exist, it was sold to the Heers museum in Germany.... (the second is in one of the British museums and the third is in a private collection) They kept only what they consider historically significant, or of interest in the history of the US army.... and a few of the only examples available.... It's a real shame, it used to be one of the worlds premier collections....

Currently the only software that directly addresses this is Autodesk's Raster Design.... It is capable of doing exactly what your showing.... Hopefully you can develop it into a very useable piece of software....

Hi Rick, Welcome to the thread... You might want to pop over to the MSW new users thread and introduce yourself... Yes this thread is about modeling a ships hull in 3D software, ostensibly for the purpose of modeling said hull on a 3D printer... It wasn't intended to rate one software over another or really compare them but I can see where one can make judgments based upon what is being posted here... Soon I'm going to be posting about my test hull done in Rhino.... So far it's the best I've tried... Someone might take a look at your software, they are sure welcome to try, and I hope they report back here about it..... Again welcome to the Forum and thread... EG

Aberdeen Proving Ground Museum in Aberdeen, Maryland was closed in September 2010, the museum is now located at Ft Lee... and is still impressive, but nothing like the original.... Currently, the collection is used exclusively for training and not available for public viewing. Currently, only soldiers with an 89, 91, or 94 series MOS are authorized entry.

The MK VII tank, there were only three of them built, none of them survive... essentially a MK V with a new drive system.... They were cancelled in 1918 with the end of the war and the choice to go with the International MK VIII.... The Last Crusade Tank was actually a production prop... Built on an old excavator chassis, namely a HYMAC 590 and was powered by two rover V8 engines, drive gear installed and modified by a specialist engineer from Chertsey in Surrey, Diablo (Victor) Donnelly It was based on the real-world Tank Mark VIII which possessed no main top turret. The replica measured 36 feet (11 m) long and weighed 28 short tons. (25 t) On the MGM lot... It has since been repainted.....

As long as you don't call it a US Navy Yangtze river gunboat I think your good to go.... (although the designer, Boris Leven, loosely based it upon the USS Panay PG-45) It was a real ship built in Hong Kong and motored, (diesel powered not steam) it's way across the Formosa Strait to get to the shooting site... For the engine room scenes they acquired a 1926 triple expansion steam engine from an old trawler on the way to the scrap yards... Two of the largest movie props ever constructed.... She was eventually broken up in 1975 as the "Nola D" in Singapore. There are models of her around.....

.95 meter, 37 inches wingspan at 1/50th

I'm here brother...

It won't loosen them, it just makes the glue more brittle than the plastic....

That's the way soft feather edge camo is done brother... WELL DONE!!

It is... I am becoming very attached to the Adjustable Curve Blend..... It is a VERY impressive tool for making drawing compound variable curves as easy as drawing a straight line....

That's inflation for ya....

Agreed! Understatement of the year as well! Best example of scratch building and modelers vision I've seen in a long time.... That should be on someone's magazine cover....

Yes, doing it this way also humanizes the instructor and provides many opportunities to show how it works in a real environment.... The details, it's all in the details.... Thank you my friend for the linkage, I can't wait to see how you do it.... (but I will have a solid basis of understanding when you start) I guess he also offers them on Udemy (scroll down), at a higher price point but with full course materials... (he is also the highest rated Rhino instructor on Udemy, well deserved judging from the user commentary on his courses) Certainly is much superior to Linked-In Learnings offerings on Rhino... Again Thank You Richard, this is the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow on Rhino for me.... The Authors Webpage.... And his Facebook Page....

I've paid for two already, the first was the ship course that Richard vouched for and after binge watching the whole thing, (and archiving it) I took the middle one of the six ... (it's exactly same as the one with the watch image) Yeah, the one that starts you out from nothing... 70+ lessons long.... (and I keep eyeballin' that Spit tut) Looks like he's got the basics covered....

Nothing better to set the atmosphere when your playing with knives and glue...... {chuckle}

Yes Mark very reasonably priced.... There are a number of course authors out there for Rhino, he is the only one truly reasonable... Most are over the $1K range... I'm a few lessons into the middle one on the page, the total nube course... VERY VERY thorough... He hasn't left any questions yet... And personally I would go thru the starter course before anyone tackles the ship course of his that Richard posted... The ship course is decidedly an intermediate course, he treats you as you should know the basics and be able to do some things without his explanations or hand holding... Just like any good professor would.... The nube course he steps you through, bringing you along first by explaining the interface, not requiring you to do anything as he explains and shows how the software works... Then he starts stepping you through the tools in a follow me basis you following him.... Mirroring what he does..... You soon get the hang of how the tools function.... But even more important, he explains what is important and what isn't, what you will be using and what you won't (or only occasionally) I guess if I run into any questions they can be asked on his facebook page and I guess you can e-mail him directly... But the best part, he isn't droll he doesn't pass up his mistakes, (or excuse them, and he does make them) he runs you right on thru them showing you the correct way by correcting himself.... This is straight up education the way we remember it... {chuckle} You get the feeling from the start that he expects you to learn it... Well worth the minimal investment....

I found another tutorial for Rhino by researching the author and checking out his webpages.... He offers his courses at what I consider very reasonable prices.... I've found what I've been searching for for so long....

The Original Plans were drawn in in 1/48th scale (1/4" to the foot) meaning your 6 foot drawing from the BoGP was redrawn reduced, (probably pantographed)... they were then photocopied onto blued linen, several plates to a page... To know what the thickened lines mean you would have to see the construction notes on the original prints as that is the only place that info would be... BoGP's only provide enough info for Damage control/Emergency repairs on board ship or at a non naval shipyard base... They do not replace construction drawings.... They really aren't worth much, but they do help the model builder, and understand the model builder could care less what all the voids inside the hull are for or why they are built that way... At this late date NARA probably has all the original builders plans on Microfilm, but the cost of a set of films for a ship is astronomical... A few decades ago they were relatively cheap you could get a complete set of ships drawings for a few hundred, today, it's a few thousand.... Trying to vectorize them is a worthwhile project, (although a daunting one) I don't think any one will have the data your looking for and paying a NARA researcher to find it for you is cost prohibitive as well... But if you want to go that way, I can refer you on to a few I know.... My best advise is to draw them up the way they are... Most people haven't a clue anyways, and most of them could care less...

Well, according to my Aunt, the cylinders were made of cast aluminum in the first place.... Dark cast aluminum would be appropriate, the fins were cut into the casting on a special lathe.... But making that distinction would be difficult....