Egilman

Nothing better to set the atmosphere when your playing with knives and glue...... {chuckle}

Yes Mark very reasonably priced.... There are a number of course authors out there for Rhino, he is the only one truly reasonable... Most are over the $1K range... I'm a few lessons into the middle one on the page, the total nube course... VERY VERY thorough... He hasn't left any questions yet... And personally I would go thru the starter course before anyone tackles the ship course of his that Richard posted... The ship course is decidedly an intermediate course, he treats you as you should know the basics and be able to do some things without his explanations or hand holding... Just like any good professor would.... The nube course he steps you through, bringing you along first by explaining the interface, not requiring you to do anything as he explains and shows how the software works... Then he starts stepping you through the tools in a follow me basis you following him.... Mirroring what he does..... You soon get the hang of how the tools function.... But even more important, he explains what is important and what isn't, what you will be using and what you won't (or only occasionally) I guess if I run into any questions they can be asked on his facebook page and I guess you can e-mail him directly... But the best part, he isn't droll he doesn't pass up his mistakes, (or excuse them, and he does make them) he runs you right on thru them showing you the correct way by correcting himself.... This is straight up education the way we remember it... {chuckle} You get the feeling from the start that he expects you to learn it... Well worth the minimal investment....

I found another tutorial for Rhino by researching the author and checking out his webpages.... He offers his courses at what I consider very reasonable prices.... I've found what I've been searching for for so long....

The Original Plans were drawn in in 1/48th scale (1/4" to the foot) meaning your 6 foot drawing from the BoGP was redrawn reduced, (probably pantographed)... they were then photocopied onto blued linen, several plates to a page... To know what the thickened lines mean you would have to see the construction notes on the original prints as that is the only place that info would be... BoGP's only provide enough info for Damage control/Emergency repairs on board ship or at a non naval shipyard base... They do not replace construction drawings.... They really aren't worth much, but they do help the model builder, and understand the model builder could care less what all the voids inside the hull are for or why they are built that way... At this late date NARA probably has all the original builders plans on Microfilm, but the cost of a set of films for a ship is astronomical... A few decades ago they were relatively cheap you could get a complete set of ships drawings for a few hundred, today, it's a few thousand.... Trying to vectorize them is a worthwhile project, (although a daunting one) I don't think any one will have the data your looking for and paying a NARA researcher to find it for you is cost prohibitive as well... But if you want to go that way, I can refer you on to a few I know.... My best advise is to draw them up the way they are... Most people haven't a clue anyways, and most of them could care less...

Well, according to my Aunt, the cylinders were made of cast aluminum in the first place.... Dark cast aluminum would be appropriate, the fins were cut into the casting on a special lathe.... But making that distinction would be difficult....

Welcome to the board Halkun... You might want to jump over to the welcome thread and introduce yourself... I've done some drafting in the past, and have a complete BoGP (Booklet of General Plans) for the Saratoga dated '93.... Your drawing is the first 29 frames of the double bottom Plate 18, Very Nice.... Not much has changed as far as drafting terminology since I learned to draw (late'70's) What can we do for ya.... EG PS: BoGP's have no copyrites, they are public domain once declassified....

Have either of you thought about using a flange on the inside surface along the edges of mating parts? A larger gluing surface, and a reinforcement of the joint....

For me, I didn't even know such thig as history roll back even existed until I got four months into learning SW... In my experience as well it is hit or miss on if it messes something up downstream... But for small minor changes and adjustments it does work.... In Solidworks you can be pretty well assured if you roll back past a feature to make a change where the feature is involved in the change, it's going to complain..... Compound features (feature on top of a feature? will will almost always complain) I imagine it's the same in F360..... I've been considering using both SW & Rhino as complementary to each other.... But I don't know how the files will interchange yet.... It will depend on how well the two confabulate meshes... I'm far enough into Rhino to know that it makes real solid solids, (and you can check for holes in your model) not solids that claim to be solids, for 3D resin printing that's a godsend....

Simple solution,,, wirecutters... {chuckle}

Looks the part to me, maybe not 100% perfect, but who can tell? Outstanding!

I've been watching that online tutorial you posted earlier Richard... I can say yes, it's fast, once you are comfortable in Rhino's environment... Thank you for the link.....

Between the oil barrel on the cross bucks and the corner brother, just turn the tires sideways.....

That's my one complaint about Rhino Kevin, knowledgeable support, when you can find it is priceless.... What Richard is offering here is priceless IMHO..... You will have some support from McNeel but it's like all such support, they are the software writers, everything is simple to them..... as far as interoperability between softwares, I use file export for all transitions between packages. my preferred file type is .obj... Ancient I know but the most stable.... And all three export that file type.... SW has good support, good forums, good training and more tuts all over the net than you can imagine, they run from very low grade to education grade and that is only the free ones.... The paid ones are similar but a step up in quality..... Heck, they are teaching SW in high schools and community colleges.... As far as usability for ship modeling, SW does have a few issues I've ran into.... Especially on intersecting compound curves when you need them to stich together, it can get to the point where it says the surfaces are stitched but in reality they are not... The common resolution/workaround is to extend the surfaces past each other and trim them off at the intersection, but that doesn't work reliably... (the gaps remain) You then have to go searching through the model to find the gaps and close them individually.... It's why I haven't finished the Predator in SW... Rhino I believe has the ability to show you where the gaps in your solid model are and point them out for fixing.... SW has nowhere near the number and complexity of issues F360 has though... And it does crash once every blue moon but it's recovery routine is very very good.... Rhino, as far as it goes, I would defer to those who know cause I plain flat don't know anything... (the long and the short of it) I judge the order of issue level between the three is thus... (based upon my limited experience) Worst to best... Fusion 360... Solidworks... Rhino..... I'm already at the point where I will not bother with F360 any further, heck it couldn't handle a basic chine hull which was easily done in SW, on an identical machine, I've already shown that.... And from what I have been reading a basic chine hull built from curves is childsplay in Rhino.... I want to see what it does with the superstructure of the predator... Once I get my feet under me in Rhino, I won't be looking back.... And there I run into my main problem with it, good accurate info... I will keep up on SW as another tool in my box for stuff it is very good at but my hard modeling for model making will be done in Rhino....

Thank you for this, I just finished up the essentials course and it explained a few thing which is good, but not anywhere near enough... I was just going to go looking for the method to get images into the view screens, this is right on time.... He covered this a little bit, and definitely explained about using as few curve point as possible to have an optimized surface, in fact he drove the point home.... Curve analysis, he touched on this but didn't go into detail, I'll need more info on the technique.... That's one of the first tips he made and the need is easily seen.... Besides all the other software I've use uses the cntl/alt/shift keys for screen movements, so this is making the Rhino screen view controls conform to the controls I already am used to... And makes the arrow keys much more useable.... (which they aren't in the other softwares) Thanks for the tips Richard, they are timely and right on point.... Invaluable really...

Good to see you here brother, I'm going to do this come hell or huge water.... {chuckle} This is the future of modeling I think.... Welcome aboard....

It has all that and more HG, if there was a good way to learn it, (a decent set of serious tuts available) I would have been using it a long time ago... It natively opens in 4 view mode but that's just one click away from becoming a one screen show... And the interface is fully configurable... It feels a lot like, (I hate to say this) like the Autocad user interface.... If you've been doing cad for a long time it will be like old home week.... If your into rendering it uses the VRay rendering engine which is also top of the line and it offers a full range of export options.... So what you do is fully transportable to any other software you might like... Some of the stuff it does and no other software is developable surfaces, flatten surfaces/objects into patterns for cutting, (paper model designers love that one) Too many to list them all... If your familiar with and like general cad software, you will like this...

Outside of allowing 6 weeks time, no...

No sweat Richard, it's all good, I suspect that coming out the other side I'll be able to figure out how to model the other hull types, they are all basically built the same way, just different in the details.... As far as videos or recorded live sessions, both get the job done, my experience is videos work better than live sessions (as long as they show all the steps) but I can work with either... That experience comes from watching too many Autodesk University web casts that feel like a waste of time wondering what I learned from my investment... I haven't given up on ADU webinars yet, but they are the last place I go to actually learn something....

Right now I'm sitting through a fairly boring hour of a two hour course on the basics of Rhino, it's interface and how to draw primitives... I suspect in the second hour they will get into more interesting things.... {chuckle} Nothing like starting from the beginning....

Kevin, it isn't the drawings just like it isn't the tools, in the case of the drawings, once they are complete they become a tool as well.... No matter how accurate the drawings are it is the information they convey that is what is important... the picture can be a bunch of scribbles without a straight line in them, but as long as the dimensions are correct, what is built will be correct if the craftsman knows how to read and interpret them.... you know this, I know this and I'm sure Richard knows it.... I'm going to prove it with a horrible bunch of drawings out of a fairly crappy BoGP.... What gets me is how many in documentation don't even know how to read what they are in charge of taking care of... Good drawings are better, true, but as long as you know how to use the datum on a drawing it's line accuracy doesn't matter... I do a set of drawings for a customer client or boss and they could generally tell me what it was by looking at the pictures, but that is about all.... (some of them could only read it out of the title block) But telling someone to just use the drawing as a template? Wow! The scale effect at the scales we normally work at is insignificant, but when you start bumping up to 1/25th of even 1/35th scales it becomes an issue... Your printing issue is probably a lack of supports for a resin printer and probably a touch of under exposure leaving the resin just a bit too soft... If there is no hint of it in the software then the slicer works from the same mesh, highly doubtful the issue is there...

And we have the scale factor to deal with, we are working at much much smaller sizes of parts where minor discrepancies could become a major issue in larger models, in smaller ones they are much less so....

I would as well, they are usually laid out on a tarp about ten meters behind the trails with only two or three of them ready to load, the rest in their shipping containers.... They were too fragile to leave laying around underfoot...

And those subjects really don't interest me, modeling is what I like and will be taking it straight to 3D printing.... Just looking for the easiest and fastest way to model accurately so I can scale and print....

Ok I just hooked up My account at Linked in and am going to run the essentials course for Rhino 7 once I get it installed.... Just getting ready.....

Well I just signed into art station, looks impressive.... Personally, I can do pretty much anything but realtime... that's a non-starter for me.... I've acquired the latest Rhino available short the maintenance updates 7.11 I think it is.... And I hear that Rhino 8 is in beta testing now...