Stephen Walters

Tom, thank you so much!  This may be what I'm looking for.  I will be reading it many times.  I wish I could buy you a cup of coffee.  If the NRG ever decides to hold its annual meeting in Tulsa, maybe I could buy you a cup of coffee in person.

Kind Regards,

Stephen Walters

I have just listened to Mr. Pissaro's videos on planking the Winchelsea and have enjoyed them so much.  He presents the information so clearly.  He is a natural teacher.  I just have one request to make and then with his help from those masterful videos, I will be ready to try my hand at this wonderful pursuit.

In his first planking video, he mentions that in Chapter Two he discusses how to line off the hull, something I very much would like to know.  I have looked for this chapter on the site, but have been unable to locate it.

Can someone tell me where it is?

Stephen Walters

Thank you so much for your fast, informative, and kind reply.  I wish you much success in your build.

Kind Regards,

Stephen Walters

HakeZou, congratulations on starting your build of the Endurance!  I look forward to your posts.  They are always informative. 

In the meantime and when you get a minute or two, could you let me know where you purchased your bulkhead corner braces and the clamps you used on the bow of the Endurance?

I hope to get my Occre kit soon and would like to order these items as soon as possible so I could have them ready for use when my kit arrives.

Kind Regards,

Stephen Walters

Thanks for your kind words, Toni.  Will proceed.

Kind Regards,

Stephen

Hi, Toni.  got my second kit this morning (First kit had delaminated panels and I had to reorder.) and opened it just now.  There is some warpage on the two bulkhead panels.  The first photograph shows the panels as they came in the kit.  The second photograph shows the panels reversed.  I'm not quite sure how to take the warpage out of the panels.  Any suggestions?

Kind Regards

Stephen Walters

Bingo!  I understand now, Toni.  Thank you for your thoughtful reply.

If I ever get to the point where I understand a fourth of what you've forgotten, I will consider myself fortunate.

Thank you so much.  

You are a treasure.

Kind Regards

Stephen Walters

Well, Toni, I'm so confused about rabbets. I got the kit for the half-hull planking project and am ready to start but I need to get a clear idea about how the rabbet cross section change as it rises up the stem.

I first thought that the 45 degree bevel on the upper portion of the keel extended up through the stem with no change.  After reading that portion of your build log on MSW dealing with rabbets, I discovered I was spectacularly wrong.

If I read your build log correctly, it shows the complete rabbet at the top of the stem to be in the shape of a mortise.  My understanding of a mortise is that it is a cut that has a rectangular cross section, but when I look at the first photograph that shows the mortise portion of the rabbet darkened for clarity, I am confused by the darkened triangular area that extends from just below the third waterline from the bottom to just above the fourth waterline. Is this area still the flat area of the bottom of the mortise?

If it is, it would appear that the bevel steepens from 45 degrees at the bottom of the triangular area to almost 90 degrees at the top of this area.  Is this true?

When you get a few minutes, could you help me out?

I have a feeling that I have missed something important here.

Kind Regards,

Stephen Walters

Thank you so much, Ryland.  My sincerest apology to Toni Levine for getting the gender wrong.  It was unforgiveable and entirely unintentional.

Stephen Walters

Mr. Levine's half-hull planking project would be of great help to me in understanding hull planking and would like to learn more about purchasing his kit.  Could someone let me know where on the site I could go to find out about the price?  This project seems like a remarkable learning tool.

Kind Regards,

Stephen Walters

A most beautiful model.  Thank you so much for your help.

Stephen Walters

Hi, Nigel.  I just found your build log on the Red Dragon by Artesania Latina.    What a gorgeous and beautiful model!  It deserves to be in a museum.  I, myself, have started the Red Dragon build and in about a month will be facing a problem you have so masterfully solved.  It involves gluing the bulwarks to the deck, and especially at the bow where they attach to the bow bulkhead.  They will be attaching at such a severe angle that I'm worried that the glue will not be able to permanently hold them.  In your build, I believe you mentioned that you would be preforming them before attachment. Excellent idea!

When you get a minute or two, can you tell me how you did this and what kind of clamps you used, especially at the bow and stern?

Kind Regards,

Stephen Walters

Mercy!  I have thought of using a Sharpie marker, but am also thinking of just using a No. 2 pencil.  I think I will just leave the Sharpie alone.  Thank you so much for your reply.  You may have saved me from making a terrible mistake.

Kind Regards,

Stephen Walters

I concur with Bruce and CPDDET.  There is so much to learn about model ship building.  It's a much better way to spend my most precious resource, time, than sitting in front of a tv and learning nothing.

Stephen Walters

Thank you so much for your reply.  I'll take a look at your build log.  In the meantime, can you tell me what your pencil hardness was.  I'm thinking of using a pencil of no. 2 hardness.  Do you think the lead would be too soft?

Kind Regards,

Stephen Walters

43 minutes ago, Pete Jaquith said:

Stephen,

 

I have had good success with a non-bleed fabric marker "FabricMate" from Jo Ann Fabrics.

 

Regards from the shipyard,

Pete

 

Hi, Pete.  Will check out the tip.  Many thanks.

Stephen

28 minutes ago, Pete Jaquith said:

Stephen,

 

I have had good success with a non-bleed fabric marker "FabricMate" from Jo Ann Fabrics.

 

Regards from the shipyard,

Pete

 

26 minutes ago, Pete Jaquith said:

Stephen,

 

I have had good success with a non-bleed fabric marker "FabricMate" from Jo Ann Fabrics.

 

Regards from the shipyard,

Pete

 

3 hours ago, PietFriet said:

I have used both thread and pencil, but prefer pencil because it is easier to do and I like that you do not end up with clean lines. Although you may get (light) smudging when sanding, I like the look after staining with light oak. Maybe without staining it is less attractive so that could be a deciding factor.  Picture below is the stained deck using pencil.

This forum is awesome!  Wish I had known about it years ago.  After reading these kind replies, I have many techniques to try out.

Many kind regards to those who replied,

Stephen Walters

Ah, good idea, Gregory.  I'll try it.

Stephen

Hi, Allen.  Many, many thanks for defining the procedure.  It is clear and concise.  I will try it and will use a scalpel instead of an Xacto blade.  In the meantime, if you have a few minutes, posting some photos showing the procedure would help immeasurably.

Kind Regards,

Stephen

Wow, this is a live forum!  Love that idea about the black thread, Sweep.  Your Bounty deck looks awesome.  The black tissue paper looks intriguing, Allen.  Like Bruce indicated, I also would like to find a description of how to use tissue paper for edging.

Kind Regards,

Stephen

Hi, Jim.  Thank you so much for your quick and kind reply. Will consider edge marking with a pencil.

Stephen Walters 

Good evening from Tulsa, Oklahoma.  I'm new to the forum and new to modeling and just hope I ask questions that make some sense.  I've just started my build of the Bluenose II by Artesania Latina.  Eventually, I will be edge marking the deck planks to simulate deck tarring.  A number of modelers I've talked to say stay away from edge marking with any pencil lead because it leaves indelible smudges after sanding.  Others recommend marker pens.  I've tried some marker pens but the ink weeps away from the edges onto the tops of small test planks I'm using.  The test planks I'm using come from the 0.6 mm x 5 mm basswood planks in the AL kit.  Can of any of you experienced modelers recommend inks that won't smudge on sanding, or if that is unfeasible, recommend other ways to edge mark the planks?

One way or another, I'm going to build this exquisite model.  It is so beautiful.

Stephen Walters