acaron41120
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Everything posted by acaron41120
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Siren I feel your pain. I'm building Billing Boats Golden Hind. The plans show three Wales. From everything I have read about the wale location is that the Wales is located "at the widest part of the ships hull." This doesn't seem that it will work well in that if followed, the bottom wale would be BELOW the waterline. So I'm going to go with the middle wale of the three which is a little above the center of the hull. The only other question is; because Billings doesn't double plank their hulls, do I double the thickness of the Wales? I've a few wider plants that I can use. -
I have read in various publications about securing hull plank with glue and a wooden pins/peg (bamboo), especially at the bow on blunt shaped hulls. I have a 1:50 scale ship and a lot of 1/32" diameter dowels donated from a friend's project. Would the diameter of these pins/pegs be too large? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.
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I purchased the Billing Boats Golden Hind and the kit supplied deck planks are .5x8x780mm. I find the planks to be a tad bit too thin for my liking and wider than they actually should be. I'm thinking of ordering about sixty 0.7x7x550mm planks made of basswood. This appears to be a better plank for the 1/60 scale model. But really not certain what the color of the decks planks were during that period; light, medium or dark wood. For reference, I am staining the hull a light brown. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
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That's exactly what I was hoping for. Your method is great. sometime a good video or photo is easier to read than the idea in the book. I will try that method when I get back to my Golden Hind. Thanks!!
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Still having difficulty in figuring out how to cut the garboard strake curve at the bow. If I can get this down I'll be home free. I THINK the best way is to lay the straight plank on the plans and trace the curve of the garboard strake onto the straight plank and cut it out. Am I correct?
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Fritzlindsay, thanks for the explanation, illustrations and photos. That answered by question perfectly!
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When the canon is not run out and the port covers/lids are closed, did the fit flush with the hull or overlap the canon port?
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Wefalck. Thanks for your explanation. Your method is what my plan is. Set the individual pieces on the plans, cut to length and angle, and assemble on the plan that I have covered with wax paper (wax paper doesn't adhere to glue very well) and when finished assembling, attach the assembly to the ship.
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Just wondering how everyone builds the beakhead on their ships. Do you build it piece by piece on the ship or build it on the work bench and then install it? The Mayflower is the first ship that I'm building that has a beakhead. My plan is to build it on a workspace and then install the finished piece on the ship. Thanks for any insight.
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Never thought of that. Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. I have some scrap plywood that I can use to make this tool. Thanks.
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As the subject line asks, is there any support tool to hold the bowsprit at the proper angle? Home made or purchasable? I need something to hold it at the proper angle while I tie it secure.
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Rigging Mast Deadeyes Order
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks for your method. I may give it a try. -
Rigging Mast Deadeyes Order
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I have my bottom and top masts set up and ready to rig. I was just over thinking it. I'll start Wednesday with trigging the main mast shrouds and work my way up then move to the fore mast and finish with the mizzen mast. Thanks for the help and getting m y mind to quit overthinking it! -
When do you install the mast deadeyes? Rig it on each mast section then install the sections together or assemble the masts sections and then rig the deadeyes? Seems to me that installing the deadeye rigging before assembling the masts sections would be the better way as the fighting platforms (aka crows nests) wouldn't been the way. Thanks for your replies.
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Getting ready to stain the decks of the skipjack. What method do most use in applying stain? Stain , sand, 2nd coat of stain, steel woo; etc. And when finished should I use clear lacquer or should I use glaze? What's the difference?
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Quality of Model Shipways Skipjack Ship
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Wood ship model kits
That's for the info. I'll have to check out some history and photos/paintings of the Skipjack. The scale of this kit is 7/16 inch =0.438 inches 1 ft which equates to roughly 1:190 or close to it. I think it'll be a fun build while I wait for the hull planks on the Golden Hind to dry. -
Received a Model Shipways Skipjack ship as a Christmas present. I will build it but I know nothing about quality of Model Shipways. Bad, good, in the middle of the road?
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Paul Ron. Yes. It's the reefers you show on your square rigged illustration (Item H). I thought they were tell-tales. Thank you. Again I'm learning which isn't bad for an old guy like me! Now the second half of the question is do any of you include these "reefs" on your sails? On many of my ship models, the plans show where these reefs would be attached but the instructions show how to sew these reefs onto the sail but never actually say to install them. It was these instructions that lead me to the question. Thank you all.
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On a sail, one side has some strips/ropes hanging downward on the forward side of the sail. It was supposedly used to tell the helmsman which direction the wind was blowing so they could adjust the sails to the optimum angle. I think they are called tells nowadays. So what were they called back in the age of sail and how many of you add these strips/ropes to the sails on your ships? Thanks for teaching me!
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Made it through Helene and Milton and now getting back to the Half Hull Tutorial. A friend asked me what was the biggest thing I learned so far and I told him that I was always under the impression that all the planks were straight/level the entire length of the hull which I now know is incorrect. So if I understand it correctly, a person building a plank on bulkhead kit will have to cut the straight planks into a more curved shape. For example a 7mm wide plank may be 7mm at the stern and be 4mm at the stem. Correct?
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I have started the NGR Half Hull Planking Tutorial and I now know where I was going wrong and misunderstood a lot from reading the books. If one waned to learn to plank a hull like they originally did I highly recommend this tutorial. It's money well spent. And even an old geezer like myself can understand it.
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Thanks Gregory for the education. Not quite ready to scratch build yet but slowly moving in that direction.
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When reading the instructions in the planking tutorial the components are the stem, stemson, keel, keelson, deadwood and stern post. But the Keel is one peace which makes me wonder if the actual shipwrights keel was one piece. I don't think so but that's how most kits are manufactured. (I don't know about scratch builders keels.) So were the actual ships built with a multi piece/section Keel or a single piece keel. Just wanting to learn more about this great hobby.
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Kit was made by Billing Boats. and has been discontinued years ago.
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Mark. I have read all the tutorials and one other that have all helped but none actually tell someone where to start the first plank. So I started searching through my other books and in one I actually found the answer. And I am happy to post here in the off chance someone else is having the same problem. From the book Ship Modeling Simplified, by Frank Mastini, page 36 “you must start the planking about one-half plank width below the deckline.”
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