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Bill97

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Everything posted by Bill97

  1. Bill97
    All open on the battle side? Not some open and some closed? Only on side (port) of my ship will be fully visible in its display case. Was thinking of having some closed on the visible side but I am guessing that would not be authentic?
  2. Bill97
    As I am working on the cannon hatch covers I am noticing that I like the way the covers look closed as well as open with cannon forward. I am curious if there would be an authentic way that in actuality would have had some covers open and some closed? I am interested in the same side of the ship. I always have my preconceived display side. As you have seen I already have the cover’s installed on the port side lower deck in the open position. If I wanted to display some of the hatches on the next deck up (but not all) closed, what might have been an actual situation? A few on each end closed and those in the middle open, or the opposite of that? An alternating hatch cover open/closed display? What do you guys think. Of course any I decide to close now will require the removal of the cannon barrel.
  3. Bill97
    Ian the RC model boat group sounds fun. Not only do you need to build a beautiful ship, you need to make it float and move. As Marc has made very clear in his modification of the Soleli Royal kit. There is no way it would not tip over based on the shape of the hull. Luckily I don’t have to worry about that.
  4. Bill97
    Ian this is absolutely fascinating! Your mechanical and electrical engineering skill is so over my head but I still enjoy reading through it, especially the videos. Great job my friend.
  5. Bill97
    Wow Ian would love to see photos of your Galley. It really sounds pretty cool!
  6. Bill97
    Thanks Ian. I will always say your help and guidance on the Victory has been my foundation for this build. Am I correct that you have the Heller Soleli Royal in your stash for a future build? Will be anxious to see what you do with it.
  7. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. I believe what I have rigged so far matches what you have. More lines to be run later! It is crazy flipping back and forth between 3-4 pages! 😊 In the meantime I have decided to go with cannon hatch covers next. The method I am using to install them allows them to be flexible so I should not have a problem breaking them off. Did an extensive modification of the kit hatch covers. I added a layer of Evergreen to the inside to better reflect the hull thickness. I cut them lined down the face of the Evergreen to resemble wood planks. Painted the interior side red and added a gold fluer-de-leis face up when hatch is open. On the face side I painted the hinges and added two eyebolts to except the hatch lanyards. To attach to the hull I drilled the top and added two copper wires with a touch of CA. To attach I will drill matching holes in the inside edge of the hatch and insert the wires again using CA. The wire will permit the covers to be positioned just as an actual hinge would. Bottom deck on port side completed except for lashing the lanyards. Still need a little paint touch up around a few hatches.
  8. Bill97
    Henry after much study I believe I have the rigging correct. The old 1970’s version of the rope routes and belay points was better to follow than the new one that has a few discrepancies, I think. I am at a decision point as to where to go from here? I imagine I will need to lean the model over a bit, both starboard and port, when I add the cannon hatch covers. I somewhat expect with the yards attached, especially the fore and main, tipping the model could be awkward. So I can’t decide if I should go ahead and put on the hatch covers before I move on to the yards?
  9. Bill97
    Henry in my first photo you see the line that goes through the block attached to the center of the sprit yard then through the block under the platform and down alongside the bowsprit. The rigging path ends with it being tied to the gammoning. I have two Heller instruction versions. An older version has it going through a hole in the saddle and then to the gammoning. The version that came with the kit has a different line going through that particular hole and indicates the line in question does not pass through the saddle but instead goes directly to the gammoning. Can you make a definitive conclusion for how that line completes its run? Also for the lines that go up to the beakhead rail I see some belay to the rail while others belay to the knightheads lined up along the rail?
  10. Bill97
    Top sprit yard installed and rigged. There surprisingly is a lot of rigging to that little yard! Still studying to determine the exact belay points for the halyards for it and the spritsail yard. One instruction I have shows the lines going through the holes in the bowsprit halyard guide then up to the rail. Another instruction has them going directly to the rail or tie off to the gammoning.
  11. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. I really appreciate it.
  12. Bill97
    Attached the spritsail (do you call the yard the spritsail or the spritsail yard?). Made the spritsail sling just as described in Anderson’s book. Also added a few of the rigging lines. Since I reinforced the bowsprit with a wood dial, and turned new yards out of dials, all my spars are solid wood, either entirely or within the plastic. This enables me to use the old trick of drilling a small hole on both pieces at the contact point and inserting a pin with a touch of CA. This holds the yard in place while the sling, parral, and/or other initial rigging is added. The copper 22ga wire is flexible so I can manipulate the yard to the desired position without needing 6 hands!😊 You can also make out the pair of little triangle cleats I added to all the yard arms after I turned them. I used wood to make the center cleat you see in a couple posts back. For the yardarm cleats I cut tiny triangles of the appropriate width Evergreen and set them in from the end with CA glue before painting.
  13. Bill97
    All of my newly made wooden yards complete with cleats in the center were appropriate and on the ends of all of them. Primed and ready for the paint booth!
  14. Bill97
    Kirill4 I can’t make out the lettering in the diagram you provided a few comments back. The letters reference drawings a-f but I can only guess which letter goes with each drawing. Are the top two drawings showing one fall from the parral the fore and main topsail yards? Below those two in the diagram with two falls are the fore and main yards? The left is obviously the mizzen and the spritsail sling is to the right?
  15. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. I asked about when you added your cleat because in your photo the rigging was on the yard prior to the cleat. You must have been just doing trial fitting of the rigging. figured I better learn the nautical terminology if I planned to keep asking you guys for help. As you see in my photo I have put bow cleats on the main and fore yard as well as the both topsail yards. I also understand Anderson saying on page 57 that the cleats appear in both fashions, bow and open. I went with bow because they are stronger at the little bridge. I figured knowing my clumsy ways I would break off the little tabs if I had a space in the middle. I will check my plans for the eyebolts you referenced. Marc I rigged the parrels on my HMS Victory. Ian would not have allowed me to do otherwise. I do remember it being tricky to learn how to make them at the same time as rigging them. BTW, I know the HMS Victory was British and the Soleli Royal was French but sometimes when I am confused and can’t find an answer in Anderson’s book I will look for reference in Longridge’s book. Surely some of the basic rigging techniques were somewhat similar or at least close enough for my needs.
  16. Bill97
    A little small wood working today adding cleats to the center of my fore yard, fore topsail yard, main yard, and main topsail yard. Still have not decided if I am going to add a center cleat to the spritsail. Anderson is noncommittal about the spritsail having a cleat. Simply lists certain ships that had one and ships that didn’t. Will add tiny triangular cleats to all the yardarms.
  17. Bill97
    Henry I continue to have your build bookmarked for quick reference. I find your rigging skill’s fascinating. Now that I have made all my yards I am researching the cleats. As you probably know Heller does not provide them. Either the one for the center of the yard nor the ends of the yard arm. Anderson is not definitive on when they came into use but it seems the SR construction was in the time frame. So like you I intend to add them to the appropriate yards. Here is where I again referred to your build. It appears in your photo that you added the cleat after painting and rigging the yard instead of before. Am I correct? Which yards did you add the cleats too. Looking a little further into your build, I think your parrals are beautiful. Did you need to add an eyebolt at the deck and form a two block tackle to except the falls from the parrals?
  18. Bill97
    All the yards turned out of wood dials! Fingers crossed my length calculations are correct.
  19. Bill97
    All right my math major friends. Based n Marc’s assistance in establishing a baseline length for the fore yards, and Anderson’s yard length summary on page 54, these are the measurements for the yards I will be marking. At your leisure please review and give me either a passing grade or a failing grade in this class! 😊 Once I turn them I can always make them shorter but not longer. Then I get into the whole realm of adding cleats to the ends and center of the yards. Heller obviously did not.
  20. Bill97
    My calculations for the mainmast yards: Stock yard (course) 13.125” Topmast yard: 13.125”x .672 = 8.82” (8 7/8”) Topgallant yard: 8.82” x .455 = 4.01” (4”) I will turn my yards for the main mast to 13 1/4”, 8 7/8”, and 4” Does this seem correct?
  21. Bill97
    Spritsail yards and yards for the foremast turned to the lengths in the comment above. Electric drill, sand paper, and calipers does an excellent job. A little touch of paint on each set helps me not get them mixed up.
  22. Bill97
    The stock yard dimensions are: Fore course yard: 12.125”. Same length as used for the yard I made. Fore topmast yard: 8”. I need to make mine 8.25” Fore topgallant yard: 4.75”. Definitely too long. I need to make mine 3.75”
  23. Bill97
    No Marc you’re correct in the first sentence. I am only talking about the yards I have made, and may have to remake for the foremast. All the figures I have quoted are referring to only the foremast and what the length of the yards for the foremast will be. Once I get this math formula right I will then apply it to the main mast yards later. The Heller plastic bottom yard for the foremast (I think you are referring to that as the course yard?) is 12.125” long. So from that length as the baseline I am using your formula to determine the length of the fore topmast yard and the fore topgallant yard. I only mentioned that I now think I made my fore topmast yard to short and have to redo it. Fore course yard: 12.125” Fore Topmast yard: 12.125” x .672 = 8.25” Fore Topgallant yard: 8 1/4” x .451 = 3.75” I hope this makes since. I apologize for my being confusing.
  24. Bill97
    Oh I forgot. Thank you math professor Dr Marc!
  25. Bill97
    Ok Marc I think I got it. I am also turning my own yards instead of using the Heller plastic yards. In the photo I show the foreyard and the topmast yard all ready turned for the foremast. I made them to match the size of the Heller yards. The topmast yard is 7 3/4”. So according to what you have said the topgallant yard should be .451 of 7 3/4” or roughly 3 3/8”? Further my fore course yard is 12.125”. So if I go by what you said above my fore topmast yard should be .672 of 12.125” or roughly 8 1/4”? The one I made is too short at 7 3/4”. So if I remake it at 8 1/4” my topgallant yard will be about 3 3/4”?

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