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Bill97

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  1. Bill97
    Ok Marc I think I got it. I am also turning my own yards instead of using the Heller plastic yards. In the photo I show the foreyard and the topmast yard all ready turned for the foremast. I made them to match the size of the Heller yards. The topmast yard is 7 3/4”. So according to what you have said the topgallant yard should be .451 of 7 3/4” or roughly 3 3/8”? Further my fore course yard is 12.125”. So if I go by what you said above my fore topmast yard should be .672 of 12.125” or roughly 8 1/4”? The one I made is too short at 7 3/4”. So if I remake it at 8 1/4” my topgallant yard will be about 3 3/4”?
  2. Bill97
    Marc I sent the last comment with photo before you sent your comment. So do I understand you to say just make my topgallant yards proportional to the topmast yard on each mast? And just use the length of the other Heller yards to make the other two for each mast?
  3. Bill97
    So I would be correct working with about 15 inches for length of main mast?
  4. Bill97
    I am reading through Anderson’s book Chap IV. Yards and Stunsail Booms. He discusses measuring all the yards in reference to the main yard. He further says the main yard should be a fraction of the main mast length. Is the mainmast length the measure from the deck surface or deep into the ship to the keel?
  5. Bill97
    Yards for the spritsail and the foremast turned. You guys said the topgallant yard is to long so I need to determine the correct length and turn it b
  6. Bill97
    Thanks Henry and Ferrus. Yeah Ferrus that is in the same category as the several thousand ratline knots I tied. You except it as a part of the journey. No doubt Pointillism artist like Seurat and Van Gogh spent many hours making countless little dots of color that when combined together on his canvas resulted in a beautiful masterpiece. Or so I keep telling my self. 😊
  7. Bill97
    Love your new work station Marc. I am sure your artistic genius will continue to grow as you set in that beautiful chair. (Speaking as a fine furniture woodworker).
  8. Bill97
    Gentlemen I have read through the instructions several times putting little check marks by STANDING rigging lines that are shown. Looking at the instructions and my other ships I am of the conclusion I have completed the standing rigging. I am going to turn all of my yards from wooden dials. Once I have them made, which should take some time, I will switch to tan thread and begin the running rigging. I still need to add a handful of blocks here and there on the standing rigging but other than that I am not sure. Looking at my photos do you see any standing rigging lines I have missed?
  9. Bill97
    Several stays and backstays put in today. I enjoy how the stays start filling in the whole visual of the ship. There is one Hellerism I ran into that required some study. The second down main topgallant stay is numbered line 1008. The Table of Rigging says line 1008 goes from the main topgallant mast (308) to a block on the foremast cross tree (f6) then to part (274). Part 274 is the mainmast lower cross tree. The instructions should say part 273 which is the foremast lower cross tree. Will obviously need to trim line ends once I know they are ready to tie permanently.
  10. Bill97
    Modified (shortened) topgallant masts installed. Followed up with topgallant shrouds and ratlines. I think I have tied the last ratline! Wow there is a bunch of knots. It does make all the difference. I like them. Jury may still be out on effect of shortening the topgallant masts and reducing the size of the cross tree/trestle tree. I cut off a healthy 1/8” all the way around them. For reference I used 3.5mm deadeyes.
  11. Bill97
    I use them on the topgallant shrouds. On my 1/100 scale Soleil Royal the staples are too small for the deadeye spacing at lower levels. The staples hold the larger deadeyes to close together. So it really depends on the scale of your ship and where the spacing looks the best. Would be great if various size staples were available. 😊
  12. Bill97
    Kind of a fun trick I am using that makes spacing deadeye a little easier. For my topgallant shrouds on the fore and main mast I am using ordinary office staples. I just click my stapler a bunch of times and I have perfectly uniform length spacers. The bend at the ends of the staple fit right into the holes in the deadeyes. A pair in each one to keep the holes lined up properly, a touch of glue on the knot at the top, and I am good to go. After the glue drys I will remove the staples and add some additional wrapping above the deadeye. The two pictures show the before and after.
  13. Bill97
    Sure Ferrus I am always interested in reading about new techniques. Still deciding which way I am going to go.
  14. Bill97
    Thank you Dr Ian. 😊 I got it.
  15. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. Would parrels have been used on the lower yard? On my HMS Victory I used them on the top yard and topgallant yard but I don’t think I did on the lower yard. I remember Longridge directing a different rigging method for the lower yards.
  16. Bill97
    Thanks Ferrus
  17. Bill97
    As I am looking ahead I am trying to decide if I should turn my own wood dial rods to make the yards or just encase a wood rod inside the Heller plastic halves to strengthen it. I understand from you guys that the topgallant yards are too long so I will be making new ones shorter. I think the easier route would be to just add wood to the inside of the halves, but am up to the challenge to just make the new yards.
  18. Bill97
    Thank you Ian. So I think I will just leave them perpendicular and don’t bother with bracing.
  19. Bill97
    Henry back a page or two around comment 1000 you gave me some advice on bracing the yards I believe you called it if I wanted to turn them a bit on the mast. You said that the yards will have parrals to hold them to the mast. The Heller instructions do not show, unless I am missing it, the installation of any type attachment apparatus for the yards. Is this another Hellerism? I planned to make and use parrals. Was surprised not to see anything suggested for attachment. On that same subject especially referring the yards being braced. I held the the bottom yard (nautical term) up to the mast where I planned ti secure it. If I brace it even a small amount it rubs up against the lower shrouds. Would this be correct?
  20. Bill97
    Ian the yards and running rigging are where the final exam will be administered to see if I can recall everything Dr Ian Longridge taught me during my Victory build 😊.
  21. Bill97
    Ladies and gentlemen please take a moment to recognize this historic moment in time!! Today, the twenty-first day of September in the year 2023, I did in fact reach the summit or the highest point of my Heller Le Soleil Royal. This is truly an auspicious occasion. Proud to say looking at the ship from the stern I see all three mast, and all 3 sections of each, line up behind one another! I did aggressively trim back the cross trees and trestle trees of the fore and main mast as well as remaking all 3 topgallant masts with wood dial rods. The very fragile trestle tree on the mizzenmast did suffer some damage and I will need to repair it before I can add the topgallant shrouds.
  22. Bill97
    New fore and main topgallants. I kept all the plastic joint pieces, even the silly cylinder pieces. Drilled everything out and replaced with dial rods I turned to fit. Based on our discussion I made the foremast 4” and the main 4 1/2”. Surprisingly after it is too late to do anything about it I found both the fore and main topmasts were the exact same length if 9”. The bottom section of the mast is where some big difference is and now another 1/2” on the topgallant.
  23. Bill97
    While I was debating with myself as to the height of my topgallant masts I worked on installing the four anchors.
  24. Bill97
    My thought as well Marc.
  25. Bill97
    Ian looking at the card cutouts I did to represent the shroud spread which of the three topgallant heights look the best regardless of the area. I want to build my ship with a combination of both authenticity and visual appeal.

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