
Bill97
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Gentlemen she is in her new home with flood lights just like the real thing. Daniel I hope you don’t mind but I used part of your text on the first page of your build. Late summer 1805….. for the the little sign I included. I debated which way to have her facing and decided the stern of the ship, of course, had to be the first thing people see when they enter the ship yard! Thanks again so much to all of you who made this fantastic journey possible! Now to officially start my SR!
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Allan I have an additional solder question if you don’t mind. I noticed on the information about Solder-it that is nontoxic. I had not even thought about solder being toxic. I guess the solders containing lead or considered toxic? If so, would that be from the fumes that might come up or lead residue that could be on your fingers if you were to transfer them to your mouth? Very interesting. I just want to use safe soldering practice if that is the case. By by the way, did you have any issues with Ivan? Number of friends and family in the Ft Myers and Tampa area. Some did not fare well others came out OK. Bill
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Rokket you might want to check prices of Plexiglass or other names of same product. That is what I have given in to using do to the expense of tempered glass. Unfortunately during Covid the price shot up because of the demand for safety between people. Hopefully once this pandemic is far behind us the price will come down. Plexiglass is softer than real glass so it can scratch but unless you plan to display in a museum a small scratch on the glass is no big deal.
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Thanks Allan. I planned to make the chain links and other chain plate parts and drop them in Birchwood Casey blackening agent prior to assembling on the ship. I am following Daniel’s chain plate guide.
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Thanks Marc. As always very helpful and informative.
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Thanks Marc. From your comment I am assuming you were able to read the French in the first picture? 😊 AND, the so-called “ventre-de-biche” color (belly of the doe) Not sure what this means. Also thank you Baker for your comment. Appreciate the input.
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Thanks Allan so much. I will look for that. I already have the brass wire unopened. If I want to use the Solder-It with my iron would you suggest I return the brass wire and purchase copper? I am going to be making my chain plates and blackening them. it is probably obvious I have never soldered tiny craft items. Only copper pipes for plumbing. Want to make sure I have everything I need and learn how to do it. I have a 80w soldering iron with adjustable temp up to 900 degrees.
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Thanks allanyed. I am going to be using an adjustable temp soldering iron and .5 mm brass wire joining the ends of pieces together to make small chain links and deadeye loops. So with this specific tool, material, and plan what solder would you recommend? Would silver solder paste work with a soldering iron? I have to agree with you completely about practice and golf. 😊 Years of playing and practice have yet to improve my game. Still really enjoy playing. Bill
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mtaylor the kit has you use thread I guess. There are no chains, plastic or otherwise, included in the kit. I may be able to guesstimate the link sizes. Just have to get the correct solder (whatever that is) and start practicing
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I think the direction I am currently leaning, subject to change, is if I go with wood color bottom I will use the second photo scheme. If I go with a white bottom I will use the first color scheme.
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Here are some other pictures of that ship. Do not remember the source. I probably have 100 or more SR reference photos I use for reference. Had an entire file of Victory photos that numbered hundreds. Quite a few belonged to all you guys who helped me along the way.
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If I went with the scheme above (not saying I have decided) the water line does not come into play, does it?
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I have to admit this may be my most favorite representation of the SR. Bill I definitely plan to do some of the things you did.
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Thanks Ian. My Mayflower has a white bottom as was the practice at the time. I like it but I also like the wood color like the other photo I included here. I forget who’s ship it is. From what you are saying white would be the more authentic.
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You may have noticed I do a lot of prebuild planning and thinking. I often pause taking a step because I want to know all the options of how something can be done or how something should be done. Try to avoid looking back and thinking “wow, I wish I would have done that differently”. That of course is the mixed blessing of MSW. I learn so much from all my friends but then get stuck in analysis paralysis. With that in mind I have two questions for you guys. One very much comes under the heading It’s your ship do it as you want. The other is a technical question. 1. I see here on MSW and other places the bottom of the SR hull painted white. I also see it in other photos as total wood color. The Heller box shows a white bottom. I can not decide which way to go. I like both. Should I assume to be authentic it needs to be white? 2. I am going to make my own chains as we discussed above. I have already purchased my brass wire and I have a soldering iron ( don’t want to use a torch for different reasons). My technical question is about the best solder to use. I read there is silver solder, lead free solder, high melt point, low melt point, etc. want to do a lot of practice before making my chains. What solder should I get?
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Beginning to scratch the surface on my Soleil Royal build. A little trick I learned while building my Victory is to use Evergreen to frame the inside of the gun ports. When finished and painted it gives the illusion of the hull being thicker when looking in the gun ports. The hull wall would be thicker on the lower decks and gradually becoming thinner as you move to the upper most deck so I am using 2.5 x 2.5 mm for the lower deck and 2.0 x 2.0 mm for the next level. Both these decks will be covered by the deck above so the frames will not show.
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Base and framing parts for Victory case completed. Now to start assembly and she will have a permanent protected home.
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Thanks Michael. Thats perfect. Appreciate it. Bill
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Marc following up on a previous question, what size wood deadeyes did you use? I know it will be quite some time before I need them but I am putting together my shopping list. I have some wood deadeyes as I mentioned, but want to make sure I use the size most correct. Thanks
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Kevin I have not checked on your Cutty Sark build for a while. You are doing some fantastic work. Really enjoyed what Burma contributed. Wouldn’t it be fantastic if we all had the ability to meet in a big model ship building room where we could easily share, talk and help each other. What a great bunch of international friends we all seem to be.
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That helps a lot Michael. Painting some parts first is genius. Thanks
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Thanks Michael. Would appreciate that whenever you can. I have done gold leaf many years ago but could certainly use a refresher. I have the gold leaf, sizing, brushes, and varnish. I am looking over the pieces now as I text. Trying to decide which way is best, paint the entire piece the desired color then gold leaf the tiny ornamentation, or gold leaf the entire piece then paint the desired color around all the ornamentation. I am leaning more toward the first option since I use acrylics and not sure they would cover the gold leaf effectively. Would not want to have to do several coats all around the tiny ornamentation. Kpnuts did gold leaf on his SR build using the option of full gold leaf then paint. His looks good.
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Oh OK Marc thanks. Already started reading through it. Hey Kevin, saw your post. Thanks for following. Yes Daniel has a topic on making chain plates. I have it along with a couple others showing how to make chains bookmarked. I ordered the .5 mm brass wire Daniel uses.
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Thanks Marc. I must be doing something wrong when I look at the index. Where did you get the link? When I went to the index for that ship this is what I find. I don’t see one by 72Nova.
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