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Bill97

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Everything posted by Bill97

  1. Bill97
    One thing I am curious about. The Heller instructions and some of the build photos I have seen have the entire carriage, including the wheels, red. Would that be correct? Would the wheels have actually painted red? I can’t imagine that being the case.
  2. Bill97
    Well different from the Victory cannons, there does not appear to be a preset place on the bottom of the carriage to put the wheels. It seems as if I/we can place the wheels where they look the most appropriate. I am going to move them closer to the ends of the carriage.
  3. Bill97
    Ian I started last king at the carriage parts and barrels for the cannons. I clearly see what you mean by the trunnions being to for forward in the barrels! When I compared where the barrel would set in the carriage with the trunnions as is to an extra Victory cannon I have, it looks like the trunnions are almost 1/8” to for forward. The barrel on the Victory cannon is even with the end of the carriage. The SR barrel as is would continue on out past the back of the carriage and look really awkward as you said. You said you may not move the trunnions on the hidden guns but I am curious (and will find out soon) if the barrels will extend out of the hatch if I don’t. Of course I could maybe figure out an easier way to cut off the trunnions on the hidden cannons and just slide the barrel forward in the carriage using some other hidden support.
  4. Bill97
    Absolutely my friend. 😊
  5. Bill97
    Veszett I would love to, and not just for the single malt! Of course now guys I have to lean more toward the bourbons rather than scotch, which I like very much as well, or I would be forced to move out of Kentucky! 😀
  6. Bill97
    There is a newer bourbon distillery here in Louisville (Rabbit Hole) that distills one of it’s four bourbons in a sherry cask. It is has a really nice, smooth flavor. Look for it at your favorite liquor store. A little pricy but worth it.
  7. Bill97
    Now your talking Marc! I have a bit of Glenmorangie Single Malt I picked up in Scotland. I sip it as well. Both it, and it a nice bourbon, helps get all the holes lined up. And if you throw in the fumes from some Testor glue. Now you got something. 😀
  8. Bill97
    As I was saying. Bolts removed. Holes puttied. Bourbon sipped! May be a little smooth jazz playing. 😋
  9. Bill97
    Marc, like you, I really enjoy adding the small custom modifications. Enjoyed that with my Victory as I learned from you guys. I do want to add the wale bolts as I am very much using the picture above which I really like as my inspiration. I think I will try to grind the pin heads down a bit (probably still be out if scale) and improve my pattern. As we have said, there are not to many visitors to my ship room that will point out that the wale bolts are clearly out if scale. 😊 I more want them to comment that is a beautiful model ship I built and appreciate the small details I incorporated. I guarantee 100% of the people who will see mine will ask what is that ship? Will have no idea of it’s origin or period architecture. I want to work in that middle area. Much better than OOB but short of perfect authenticity. That is a more happy place where bourbon can be included while building. 🥃😀
  10. Bill97
    Marc it may be best I just not do the wale bolting before I get to far into it? Lot of time and effort if it is wrong! I can repair the few I did already. So in the photo included here, it is wrong as well?
  11. Bill97
    Needless to say just a very small section complete, but now that I have the hull painted and weathered to my liking I am am starting the process of nail holes in the planking and bolts in the wales. This may take a while. Marc I bypassed the anchor lining since I am pleased with the painting and did not want to risk messing it up.
  12. Bill97
    So you made the entire way up flush not just the two lower main wales? And you used Evergreen or some other styrene as the filler? Brilliant! Along the edge of the styrene, front and back, did you just leave the edge or putty and blend into the planking? Hard to tell from your photo.
  13. Bill97
    Thanks Marc for the photo and further explanation. I guess filling that area flush helped keep the anchor from hanging up on the lower main wales as it was hauled in? I obviously notice on yours that you have that area still white. What is your painting plan?
  14. Bill97
    I quickly, with a little panic, checked all the SR builds I am reading through and have not found any with that area painted black so I am going to live with mine as is.
  15. Bill97
    Oh oh 😳! I done scraped them off and painted the area. Will look at other builds to see if painting is a must. If so I can will guesstimate where the line was.
  16. Bill97
    Ian I have not cut loose all the carriage and wheel pieces yet. I think I will put together a couple so I can see exactly what you are talking about. I also think I will see how many, and which, cannons will be visible so I can get an idea of what we are talking about.
  17. Bill97
    Bill, when you do start the cannons be aware that they're a little strange as supplied. The trucks (wheels) are too close together and the trunnions are too far forward on the barrels. Assemble the carriages with the trucks closer to the corners, and if you're up to it cut off the trunnions and drill new holes through the barrels using a jig on your drill press. Dafi had good before and after shots of some cannons he modified. Ian I looked back to this post of your’s. Cannons will be right around the corner for me. Are Dafi’s shots in his Victory build blog or a separate blog? Not sure where to look for them. Moving the 100 and something trunnions would be a major undertaking! Will have to think about that. It would shake the dust off my drill press! 😊 When you say assemble the carriages with the trucks closer to your he corners, do you mean just move them more forward and more to the rear under the carriage?
  18. Bill97
    Hey John I continue to read and follow your build along with Marc’s, Popeye2sea‘s, Ian and several others. If you have by chance ventured over to my build you see I am very early n my build. At this point getting my hull together and painting it and starting the painting of my cannons is where I am. I know as I add the decks I will be putting in the cannons and rigging only the ones that will be seen. Did you just rig those or all the cannons on every deck? Since adding and rigging the cannons will be in my near future I have read over that section of your blog several times. I see that you struggled getting the right size blocks for the rigging. What is the final decision you made on the blocks and rigging tackles? If you have time and would not mind I would greatly appreciate if you would post a photo of one of your rigged guns and tell me the block sizes and rigging tackle.
  19. Bill97
    Thanks Marc I will do that. I wondered what those two raised lines were far and why they were there? Your directions on using the filler and then re-scribing the plank seam is actually what I initially did. I ended up having just the slightest difference in the two levels so that is way I used my fine grit file to get it smooth and level. That caused me to loose the molded wood gran. Now that I have the airbrush painting done I can remove all the masking. After that I will be devoting a lot of time to further hull hand painting. That will give me ample time to fine tune the hawser joint. You are right about the distress wash showing the joint. I may reevaluate that part of my plan.
  20. Bill97
    Thanks Marc. You think the hawsers look OK with a little more refinement?
  21. Bill97
    This is my setup except I don’t have 3 different airbrush’s.
  22. Bill97
    Yes Ian I did on the decks, black and ochre stripes, masts, and several other things. Enjoy using it. In the photo all the black cap paint bottles are for air brush.
  23. Bill97
    Got some prep and painting done today. After a good bit of color judging I decided on the color for the stripes down the side of the ship. Once I was done spending a ridiculous amount of time masking the hull I was able to airbrush the stripes. I tried to figure out a way to mask the interior of each of the gunports because I will be hand painting them red and did not want to many coats of paint in the gunports. I discovered on my Victory that several coats of paint in the gunports cause me to loose sharpness of the edges. May sand them a little inside before I paint the red. Also worked on the hawser pieces and got them installed. The edges are flush with the surround areas of the hull. I did a light bit of work with a fine file to smooth the edges where the pieces joined. Unfortunately as a result I lost the molded wood grain there at the joint. I took some 60 grit sandpaper and drug it a couple times over the area hoping to recreate a little grain. I thought it looked OK but after I airbrushed the area the grain does not stand out very much. Probably do a little dry brush of a weathering color and hopefully that will blend pretty well. We will see. Also worked on the first set of cannon barrels. Glued the halves together, smoothed the seams, and airbrushed them a surface primer. I intend to paint all the barrels bronze so I had to test my Vallejo bronze Game Color over several different color surface primers to see which gave me my desired look. Ultimately I went with a white surface primer
  24. Bill97
    Gooday Rokket, you are very welcome. How are things in Australia today?
  25. Bill97
    Oh sure Marc! I plan that. I was just practicing my first attempt at soldering my brass wire. Never soldered anything before except copper pipes in a plumbing situation. Daniel has a great tutorial here on MSW showing how to set up the pins.

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