Jump to content

Bill97

Members
  • Posts

    2,666
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bill97

  1. Marc I checked my instructions and it has me put the beakhead, then the bulwark pairs, then the stern plate. You recommend the beakhead then the stern plate and then the bulkhead pairs. Is the area of the top on the forward bulwark shown in the photo where it is recommended I fill in with Evergreen to make a solid rail?
  2. Marc what is your opinion about once I am happy with the four bulwark pieces I go ahead and glue the halves together and fix the seam joint where they meet before starting the painting? Otherwise once I have them painted and mounted I will need to repair the joint which I think will not be as good. Also I plan to replace the 21 belay pins along the rails with steel pins. Many of mine are already broke off.
  3. Is this one of the fit you guys are talking about? This is the port rear UB. It is not perfect but not as bad as I was expecting. Will need little bit of putty and sanding under three of three of the hatches for the exterior view and and a little along the seam on the interior back to the second window after which it goes under the next deck. Will see how the next 3 pieces look.
  4. Thanks Marc and Ian. I am definitely forewarned. Based on your comment my goal before a drop of paint goes on the UBs is to get a fit as nearly perfect as possible. Is there much issue in the joint between the rear UBs and the stern piece? I will try to confirm that fit as well before any painting. I remember one of you, I need to look back to see who it was, mentioned adding Evergreen to the top of the UBs. What again was the recommendation? Need to do that as well before painting. Please try to think of any additional recommendations as I am attacking this critical part of my build. Marc I am still studying how best I want to open the side galleries before painting as well. Reading through both of your builds and Henry’s I know with the completion of the hull and installation of the 3 decks I am past the part of the build where I just follow along with the Heller instructions. Other than adding reinforcements to the deck support and Evergreen pieces around the cannon hatches, there was not much more bashing. Artistically I had the pleasure of painting the hull the way I liked it, but that did not involve bashing. Marc I know you reconfigured the entire shape of your hull but I did not go there 😳. From this point forward this is going to get fun, frustrating I am sure, and exciting. I learned so incredibly much from you guys during my Victory build. When I compare what I knew before I started it and finished it is like elementary school and college. There is still so much I need to learn. I know I could take what I know so far and the Heller instructions and probably complete an attractive model. I could even use Longridge’s book and rig it exactly like the Victory. Who would know, or care, except me. Now it is time to work on my PhD. The only problem is I don’t know what I don’t know. Only by reading through a number of blogs before each and every step do I see “oh wow, I could or should have done that step that way”! I know I have said it before, but I do thank you guys for all your help and recommendations. Please keep them coming. Bill
  5. No problem Marc on the length. I will find it. I am going to set the hull aside for a while now and concentrate on painting and ornamenting the upper sections for a while then take them back to the hull. Working on those side galleries will be a big part of that.
  6. Top deck installed! Prior to installing the deck I added lanyards for the second gun deck cannon hatches to be used later. I read on a number of build blogs that since Heller did not provide stanchions to reinforce this deck it had a good bit of flex to it once installed. This would be obvious in places where strong rigging is attached to the deck. I decided to use scrap spruel to fashion stanchions similar to the ones between the bottom two decks. Once I installed the top deck I was still not satisfied with the amount of flex around the two large openings in the deck where I could not place stanchions for support. I then decided I would further the reinforcement by adding additional stanchions to the areas around the two openings. I carefully measured the needed height of each stanchion, applied glue to each end and positioned it under the deck at the openings. I did this working with a tweezer through the hatch. Looking from the stern end under the deck it looks like support posts holding up a roof, or deck. I am now venturing into the part I have looked so forward to since I saw the SR. That is painting and gold leafing the bulwarks, galleries, and stern! This will be a very slow labor of love!
  7. So Marc did you cut the quarter gallery in half horizontally and reconfigure the bottom half to stand out further for the balcony and the top half close to the bulwark?
  8. Thanks Marc. That seems to make the most since. Looking at your build, along with Henry’s, and a few others I know I am going to be doing a lot of bashing around the bow area to include filling in the area between the two cheeks and making head rail timbers. I think I will just leave the two forward hatches closed. On a side note Marc, what is your position on the side galleries being opened up? After reading several build logs that was my plan. Since then I have read others, including one my Daniel (Dafi) that argues the side galleries were fully enclosed as Heller has molded them. I am reading through you extensive blog but have yet to come across what you did. I like the look of them opened up and additional flooring added, but I just wonder what is most accurate.
  9. Marc what is he preferred practice to n modeling? Maybe just close these two hatches? Seems like if I put them in now before adding the next deck they are surly going to get knocked loose! Maybe I should just make fake carriages there that I could later just insert the barrel into the hatch.
  10. Ok so I found the beakhead bulkhead and just set it in place so I could position the he two forward cannons. Is this how it is supposed to look? I am not sure it is. The barrel almost lays on the deck outside the hatch and seems as if when fired would tear up all kinds of forward construction and rigging. Also seems that the recoil inside the gun deck would be dangerously close to the most forward side cannon.
  11. Thanks Gentlemen. I will check that out. Will need to did through the parts to find the beakhead bulkhead to help position the two cannons.
  12. Ian there may be. If there was would it be on this deck or higher?
  13. One question about the second gun deck. The instructions show two #3 guns at the bow where no hatches exist. Is this showing two #3 guns that will be in that position on the main deck or do I glue them on the second gun deck? Head scratcher.
  14. And then the second gun deck. After I drill the holes and add the thread for the hatch lanyards I will have completed the foundation of this beautiful ship. From here on will be the more artistic bashing and artistic interpretation.
  15. Put in the second gun deck today. To make sure the three decks lined up for the future installation of the mast I taped the lower mast sections together and used them to test the alignment of the second deck I just installed and I also laid the top deck in place to further check the alignment. All seems OK. I assumed me the mizzenmast will have a bit of a rake toward the stern, just as the Victory has. One little oh “darn” I ran into when I was dry fitting the mast. A little bit back I added Evergreen to the seam in the bottom deck to strengthen it as you guys recommended. When I dried fitted the fore and mizzenmast after gluing in the next deck I determined the evergreen was just a bit too close to the square hole the bottom of the mast sets in. The Evergreen slightly obstructed a solid seat of the mast bottom. I had to use some ingenuity to trim off a little of the Evergreen while only being able to access the space through the mast hole in the deck above. But I eventually got it, and it he mast bottom seat perfectly.
  16. Henry please let me know how the model show goes. Do you know if pictures, or anything else, will be available on line?
  17. That is an interesting thought about the nubbies. For the Heller blocks I used on the Victory I did clip them off and file a groove. Thankfully I got some blocks from Kevin that he had 3D printed with a groove. The other issue with the Heller blocks is painting them to look authentic! Even if painted while still mounted in the spruel the job is tedious. You can airbrush a base color but still have to hit a couple weathering colors on each by tiny brush. I have ordered all new wood blocks and deadeyes for my future use. Will use my supply of resin blocks for backup if I run short on a particular size. Not sure what to do with these 4 spruels of blocks in the Heller kit. Hate to toss them in the trash.
  18. Henry I am really finding your blog so helpful in my build. I read through parts of it often and find you out ideas clear and easy to understand. So very helpful. Great job my friend.
  19. Thanks my friend. I will consider it. I really enjoy when we all seem to be on MSW at the same time. Kind of cool.
  20. Ian I am reading through your Heller Preussen build now.
  21. What’s that Ian? Heller Preussen? Is that a kit I need to look at for maybe starting in 2025? 😀
  22. Whew! Thank you for stopping me before I screwed up. It does not appear I have even installed that yet. That comes long time from now at step #61.
  23. Thanks Kevin. I really appreciate that. Gotta study this bash Henry recommends. I got that part in solid and looking great with the paint on and around it. It is the big knight head that is pinched between the two deck halves. Yuck!!!
×
×
  • Create New...