
Bill97
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So Marc do I understand you correctly that your goal, and mine should be, was to make it look as if the hawser pieces are not separate pieces? Once glued in the surface should be smooth to include filling the crack all the way around and extending the board planking lines across the seam? We knew I was gluing my halves together to soon! Maybe I can still pull this off. How did you do the bolting of the wales? I like that.
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Finally got my ship yard in order! I use Vallejo acrylics and have tried putting a drop of paint on the top of the cap to identify the color. That has not worked and the whole time I was building the Victory I would spend countless minutes picking up and putting down paint bottles looking for my desired color. I found that frustrating as you can imagine. Once I decided enough is enough I found these Great wall hanging Vallejo paint racks. I organized my paints by airbrush paints and brush paints, and my color groups. I was surprised to see the number of duplicates I have. Apparently when I got different sets as gifts, are whatever, there were frequently colors included I already had. All the duplicates went into my storage cabinet for possible later use. Pictures below are after and before.
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Thanks Marc. I will certainly read over this several times to make sure I understand. Appreciate it.
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Great catch Marc. Dry fitting a scrap piece of thin Evergreen shows me I will definitely need to add it after I put in the hawser inserts.
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Now this morning when I took the clamps off I did notice a small mold issue I think hunk I can correct. At the bow, even though everything is lined up pretty good, the deck support is a little lower on the starboard side. The top and the openings are lined up correctly. I just think the mold is off. I can probably just add a small piece of Evergreen to get it level.
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That is a nice touch Marc. Is that stick Evergreen? How did you get the little curved section? I am pretty much going to follow the building process per the Heller instructions and bash here and there as I go along. Heller does not have me add the upper bulwarks for a while yet. I have a long period of painting my hull and decks coming up now! Then the cannons! Oh those mutinous cannons. I may go back and forth between the cannons and doing the gold leaf on the upper bulwarks and stern. I am thinking of bronze for all my cannons. I really like the color with the ship colors. Probably not authentic but still looks good.
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No Marc. Mine is perfectly straight along the keel. Oh no Ian! I already have it glued together. Tell me again what you are talking about. Maybe I can still try to do it with halves together.
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I am going to airbrush so I plan to glue the halves together, putty and sand the joint along the keel, sand fc some of the wood grain, then prime and paint. Now that I have the gun ports framed on the inside I should be good to glue the halves together.
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Opinion question here. Do you put your two hull halves together before priming and painting, after priming but before painting, or prime and paint both after gluing halves together?
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You ever have one of those days when you say to yourself “I have to get my self organized”? I have model building materials equipment stuffed everywhere in my ship room. Paints are not easily identifiable. Storage cabinet is just disorganized. When ever I need something I know the general area it might be but I still have to look for it. Today is the day to get my self in order. Before I seriously get into my SR I have to improve my work area.
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Thanks Popeye2sea. I think it looks so much better with those cut out and moved back.
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Did you just use an x-acto knife to cut out the sections?
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Again doing long range study. Cutting little pieces of Evergreen to glue around the gunports get a little old (can’t wait to start working on the cannons 😕) so I take a break an study other stuff. I noticed most builders cut out the openings in the side galleries and fabricate a floor for each deck. Popeye2sea you show a good photo of adding the removed section s to the side of the bulwark. I want to do the same when I get that far. Would you care to tell me what you did? How you made it look as if it was designed that way?
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Thanks ScottRC. You won’t need any skills in cabinet joinery if you do what I did. Only special cut is the 45 degree angles to make the top. Exactly like making a picture frame. The rest of it is just straight cuts and dados. As I mentioned I was able to use my table saw for the dados because my blade kerf is wide enough for the Optix I used. If you went with wider Optix you probably need a router table or adjust your table saw fence after your first run so you could make second run to get the dado the width you want. I went with 1/8” Optix strictly for price. In this design the thickness is irrelevant except for the math part of it (dado width, dado placement, etc.). There is no pressure on any of the panels. If you think you might set heavy objects on top once finished you should go with a thicker panel for the top per chance it might sag. The only issue with the narrower Optix is they are more flexible than the thicker. This is not an issue for the four sides but when you or attempting to put the top back on, after having it off for whatever reason, the tops of the four sides can be a bit aggravating when trying to get all four into the dado in the underside of the top. The smaller cases I have made for my other ships are not as aggravating as the monster I made for the Victory. The side panels (2) are almost 4 feet long. You can imagine how much bowing in and out they can do when you are trying to get them plus the two sides to line up in a straight line dado so the top will set on the four uprights. And you are attempting this on the bottom side of the lid. Needless to say on my Victory case a few not church words are uttered when putting the lid back on. Once the lid is back on after a few choreographed minutes it is perfect and the thickness is irrelevant. But for the savings on the thickness I can take the frustration. The smaller case I made for my Constitution is less frustrating to take lid on and off.
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Same here Ian on economic version. On a ship note, what would the furled sail type description be for the two lower sails on each mast in this picture be, if this is an actual way sails would be occasionally kept? It does not look as if clews are attached. I like this because it gives just the hint of sails without being overpowering.
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Ok my friends now that I have my Victory safely in her case I can seriously get into my SR. Today I burnt up my credit card ordering a bunch of stuff I am going to eventually need (paint, thread, solder, etc.). I also got back to framing the inside of each of the gun ports. Upper deck done and now the slightly larger Evergreen for the Middle deck. Also started removing the moulded waterline on the hull halves
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Ian that is absolutely beautiful. I will honestly say your skill level is way above mine! Your dovetails on the drawers are perfect. I cheat and use a dovetail router jig. 😊
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Here is my living room with cabinets I made on each side of the slate fireplace I tiled. Our woodwork and trim is white so I painted the cabinets white as well as the TV cabinet I made. Other areas of the house include raised panel wainscoting, which was tricky and hardwood flooring I laid when I had a younger back 😊. Also added a picture of a drawer unit and jewelry box I recently made for my wife. I don’t make nearly what I used to do. Back in the day when I was making extra money to get kids through college and nieces and nephews need wedding gifts I spent a lot of time in the wood shop. Not as much anymore.
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Ian that is beautiful. Very impressive! Did you make the legs? Love the inlay on the top. I made a backgammon table for a client years ago using different species of wood veneer for the long narrow triangles that make up a backgammon board. We will need to share a few other project photos, even though we risk having the monitors kicking us off because our subject matter is off topic! 😊
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Ian this cabinet is my most recent project before the display case. Fits nicely in the ship room and holds a lot of my supplies. Everything stained the same color. You can see my SR box slides perfectly under the cabinet for easy access.
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Thanks Dr PR that gives me piece of mind. Have been waiting to practice until I got to the bottom of it.
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Ian that looks excellent. You have an excellent set up. I envy what you have. You may have noticed that my wood working area is my two car garage. My previous home I was able to take over my garage as a permanent work shop where I had table saw, drill press, band saw, lathe, router table, etc. and just about every smaller tool like biscuit joiner, sanders, drills , etc. At that time I made many pieces of furniture for family and for sale. When I moved to our new home in 2005 this committee has restrictions deed that vehicles must be parked in the garage at night. So as a result my shop is much more portable. Large wood working equipment needs to be moved back into storage space, small equipment put away, and project set up on permanent work bench. Sweep up and pull vehicles in at night. As I have gotten older I have cut back on amount and size of projects and sold some of my larger pieces I rarely used like my lathe which took up a lot of room. A dust collection system would be great because after a month or two of building there is dust on top of cabinets, shelves, and everywhere. My garage is attached to my house so the door enters directly into the house. You can imagine the wife’s attitude about tracking dust into the house as I go in and out while working or from the car into the house when I pull a vehicle in. 😬 Would have to do some space management if I tried to add a system.
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