Bill97

Ian here are a few extra pictures that help explain.

Ian all my cases are built using the same process. There are no screws, nails, or anything like that. It is just the wood and clear silicone. The top lifts off and the front panel lifts out for easy access whatever you are displaying. I will try to explain the process but will probably need to follow up with additional pictures. I read somewhere that the interior size of my display case should allow for 2” of open space all around the ship, length, width, and height. So I measure the length of the ship and add 4”, the width of the model at it’s widest point and add 4”, then the height and add 2”. That give me the interior dimension of my display case. For the Victory that was huge! From that point you have to use basic math to determine all your other measurements depending on the thickness of your glass or plexiglass. I use 1/8” because it is the cheapest and in this case the glass thickness does not matter. Once I have the box measurements and glass thickness I can prepare all the parts. The uprights and top framing are all true 1”x1” oak. Not the 3/4” you actually get with 1” lumber. It was hard to find so I actually bought 1” thick oak stair treads at my local (Lowes, Home Depot,etc) and ran them through my table saw to get 1”x1” lumber. Then Ian, as you said I do run a dado down each board on two adjoining sides so my plexiglass will ultimately make a corner. I place my dado 1/4” in from the exterior edge and 1/4” deep. The good thing when I use 1/8” plexiglass I can just use my table saw to make the dados since the table saw blade is 1/8”. I do the same dado in my base. One quarter in from edge, 1/4” deep and width of your glass. The uprights need to be 1/2” shorter than the plexiglass because you will go 1/4” into the base and 1/4” into the top. So with all that determined you can figure the sizes of your wood and plexiglass. You cut, dado, and mitre the four pieces of wood to form the top which will have a rectangle dado on the bottom that will slip over the tops of the four plexiglass sides. When finished you will have 1/4” free plexiglass rising above the uprights that will go into the dado on the underside of the top and then he top will rest on the uprights and easily lifted off. For assembly I use clear silicone. I sometimes use blue painters tape in case I have squeeze out at the dados. To make the top I put a bead of silicone in the four interior dados, a bit ow wood glue on the corner mitres and then carefully squeeze it together to form the perfect frame. I also use some kind of clamp to hold it together while the silicone and glue drys. Once the silicone drys you have a perfectly framed clear piece of plexiglass. The silicone and glue hold it together fine with out hardware. For the back and sides I do the same thing. Silicone bead in dados in the back and sides of the base ( not the front). Also silicone in the adjoining dados in the two back uprights and just the dados in the front uprights that face the back. Then all you do is put a bit of wood glue on the bottom of the four uprights, press the plexiglass and dados together, and you have a three sided box with no front or top. Your front base dado needs to line up with the dado in the sides of the front uprights and you should have 1/4” bare plexiglass extending above the uprights all the way around. Once you clean everything up and ready to go you simply slide the front panel in with no silicone because it remains free for easy removal, and place the top on with the four sides of 1/4” plexiglass fitting into the underside dado in the top. Anytime you want to access the model you simply lift off the top and slide up the front panel. There is no pressing on any of the joints and the physics of the box once the top is on holds it together firmly. Ian I hope this makes since. It is not difficult if you have the needed carpenter tools. This time I made the base into a coffee table type thing but usually it is just a base that sets on a shelf. Same process with the actual piece of wood that forms the base.

Thanks Ian. I honestly should put your name in there as a co-builder! 😊

Gentlemen she is in her new home with flood lights just like the real thing. Daniel I hope you don’t mind but I used part of your text on the first page of your build. Late summer 1805….. for the the little sign I included. I debated which way to have her facing and decided the stern of the ship, of course, had to be the first thing people see when they enter the ship yard! Thanks again so much to all of you who made this fantastic journey possible! Now to officially start my SR!

Allan I have an additional solder question if you don’t mind. I noticed on the information about Solder-it that is nontoxic. I had not even thought about solder being toxic. I guess the solders containing lead or considered toxic? If so, would that be from the fumes that might come up or lead residue that could be on your fingers if you were to transfer them to your mouth? Very interesting. I just want to use safe soldering practice if that is the case. By by the way, did you have any issues with Ivan? Number of friends and family in the Ft Myers and Tampa area. Some did not fare well others came out OK. Bill

Rokket you might want to check prices of Plexiglass or other names of same product. That is what I have given in to using do to the expense of tempered glass. Unfortunately during Covid the price shot up because of the demand for safety between people. Hopefully once this pandemic is far behind us the price will come down. Plexiglass is softer than real glass so it can scratch but unless you plan to display in a museum a small scratch on the glass is no big deal.

Thanks Allan. I planned to make the chain links and other chain plate parts and drop them in Birchwood Casey blackening agent prior to assembling on the ship. I am following Daniel’s chain plate guide.

Cabinet almost finished. Victory should move into her new home in the next few days.

Thanks Marc. As always very helpful and informative.

Thanks Marc. From your comment I am assuming you were able to read the French in the first picture? 😊 AND, the so-called “ventre-de-biche” color (belly of the doe) Not sure what this means. Also thank you Baker for your comment. Appreciate the input.

Thanks Allan so much. I will look for that. I already have the brass wire unopened. If I want to use the Solder-It with my iron would you suggest I return the brass wire and purchase copper? I am going to be making my chain plates and blackening them. it is probably obvious I have never soldered tiny craft items. Only copper pipes for plumbing. Want to make sure I have everything I need and learn how to do it. I have a 80w soldering iron with adjustable temp up to 900 degrees.

Thanks allanyed. I am going to be using an adjustable temp soldering iron and .5 mm brass wire joining the ends of pieces together to make small chain links and deadeye loops. So with this specific tool, material, and plan what solder would you recommend? Would silver solder paste work with a soldering iron? I have to agree with you completely about practice and golf. 😊 Years of playing and practice have yet to improve my game. Still really enjoy playing. Bill

mtaylor the kit has you use thread I guess. There are no chains, plastic or otherwise, included in the kit. I may be able to guesstimate the link sizes. Just have to get the correct solder (whatever that is) and start practicing

I think the direction I am currently leaning, subject to change, is if I go with wood color bottom I will use the second photo scheme. If I go with a white bottom I will use the first color scheme.

Here are some other pictures of that ship. Do not remember the source. I probably have 100 or more SR reference photos I use for reference. Had an entire file of Victory photos that numbered hundreds. Quite a few belonged to all you guys who helped me along the way.

If I went with the scheme above (not saying I have decided) the water line does not come into play, does it?

I have to admit this may be my most favorite representation of the SR. Bill I definitely plan to do some of the things you did.

Thanks Ian. My Mayflower has a white bottom as was the practice at the time. I like it but I also like the wood color like the other photo I included here. I forget who’s ship it is. From what you are saying white would be the more authentic.

You may have noticed I do a lot of prebuild planning and thinking. I often pause taking a step because I want to know all the options of how something can be done or how something should be done. Try to avoid looking back and thinking “wow, I wish I would have done that differently”. That of course is the mixed blessing of MSW. I learn so much from all my friends but then get stuck in analysis paralysis. With that in mind I have two questions for you guys. One very much comes under the heading It’s your ship do it as you want. The other is a technical question. 1. I see here on MSW and other places the bottom of the SR hull painted white. I also see it in other photos as total wood color. The Heller box shows a white bottom. I can not decide which way to go. I like both. Should I assume to be authentic it needs to be white? 2. I am going to make my own chains as we discussed above. I have already purchased my brass wire and I have a soldering iron ( don’t want to use a torch for different reasons). My technical question is about the best solder to use. I read there is silver solder, lead free solder, high melt point, low melt point, etc. want to do a lot of practice before making my chains. What solder should I get?

Beginning to scratch the surface on my Soleil Royal build. A little trick I learned while building my Victory is to use Evergreen to frame the inside of the gun ports. When finished and painted it gives the illusion of the hull being thicker when looking in the gun ports. The hull wall would be thicker on the lower decks and gradually becoming thinner as you move to the upper most deck so I am using 2.5 x 2.5 mm for the lower deck and 2.0 x 2.0 mm for the next level. Both these decks will be covered by the deck above so the frames will not show.

Base and framing parts for Victory case completed. Now to start assembly and she will have a permanent protected home.

Thanks Michael. Thats perfect. Appreciate it. Bill

Marc following up on a previous question, what size wood deadeyes did you use? I know it will be quite some time before I need them but I am putting together my shopping list. I have some wood deadeyes as I mentioned, but want to make sure I use the size most correct. Thanks

Kevin I have not checked on your Cutty Sark build for a while. You are doing some fantastic work. Really enjoyed what Burma contributed. Wouldn’t it be fantastic if we all had the ability to meet in a big model ship building room where we could easily share, talk and help each other. What a great bunch of international friends we all seem to be.

That helps a lot Michael. Painting some parts first is genius. Thanks