Bill97
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Everything posted by Bill97
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Ok Ian all the corrections made. Snatch blocks removed from the deck and repositioned on the bulwark. Hammock crane moved forward just a bit. Had to cut off one hammock. Netting reattached. Deck paint touched up. Lizards made and attached to mizzen shroud. Main brace reeved through lizard, block on yard, snatch block, and reeved to cleat. I have not permanently tied the brace or lizard yet. Wanted to ask if brace should be slack as shown in Longridge’s Plan 7 or taut?
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So Ian you are telling me those items I have glued to the deck need to be on the bulwark? Ok let’s see if I can gently remove them without to much damage to them or my deck! Then put them where they should be and touch up my deck paint. I will let you know how this goes 😊.
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Ok Ian. Great. I have those installed. The way I understood the instructions as that the brace was to reeve through a block then belay to that fitting. So the brace just goes directly to the snatch block from the block on the end of the yard as I have temporarily done in the photos?
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Yes Ian I still have some work to do on the main brace. The lizards still need to be added and a “snatch block” (if I can figure out what that is 😊) at the aft end poop gunwale on each side at to reeve it through enroute to the large cleat on the deck.
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Completed the braces on the bowsprit, foremast, and mainmast yards! I think that completes all the rigging from the bow back through the mainmast. Braces for a the mizzenmast and gaff still to go. Have to study that whole cross braces thing for the crossjack.
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Ok great Ian. So the yard d tackles are pretty much just like the two I have suspended from the main stay. These would just be on the ends of the fore and main yard. I will think about adding them. If I do I may just leave them as if they were in use. Maybe suspend a barrel, or something, from it as if it were in use. If I trice it up it is just going to be mixed in with all the other lines running down the length of the yard (foot ropes, sheets, etc). Or at the end of the day just omit them.
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YARD TACKLE PENDANTS??? Scanning back through my Longridge book I came across this rigging item I apparently missed on page 242. What in the world are these guys. I was starting to think I had a handle on this rigging now, but maybe not just yet! I have read over this long paragraph in Longridge’s book several times and still don’t understand it. I think I briefly skipped over this item way back when thinking it was the same as the yard brace pendants only used on the cross jack yard. Apparently this pendant is something different. Did you guys add them to your ship?
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Thanks my friends! If there are no recommended corrections I will move on to the braces.
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Whooo! Great Ian, I am glad you said you just tied them on. I was thinking about just doing that but thought you guys would shame me for cutting corners! 😀
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Ok gentlemen sheets, tacks, and clew lines complete! Decided to go without the bracket. To be honest I used Daniel’s comment as an excuse to not try to make something that would look like a bracket. Drilled and relocated the main sheet eyebolts a couple times. Had to then putty the not used holes and touch up the paint. Had to use the trick of pushing the main clew line down through the hatch cover, tie a knot, and pull back up through tight. Basically rigged it in reverse through blocks and tied off at the yard. My knots have not been glued yet so if you see anything that needs adjustment please feel free to advise.
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Daniel I am going to go with your opinion on this. Just the eyebolt and length of tackle. I am looking over a number of drawings and Victory photos to determine the correct position of the two eye bolts. All of the references I have show them between the second and third port from the back. However I am finding a slight variance in the position between the two ports. Not sure it matters as long as the position keeps the sheet from crossing in front of the third port. Also thank you Ian as always for your point of interest about the cro’jack braces crossing. Have not gotten that far yet but it is good to know so I don’t forget to do it. Speaking of the braces, at this scale did you try to do the dog and bitch thimbles for the yard ends or just fasten a block?
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I find that with out the brackets it seems the sheet rubs against the hull and the mainmast shrouds unless I move the clewline way out the length of the crossjack yard. This is of course when rigged without sails and the clew/tack/sheet block are pulled up an inboard. I like having the bracket move the block out from the side just a bit. Now if I can’t craft a suitable bracket I will need to go without and move the clew out to get a better angle on the sheet.
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Thanks Ian. That may be what I do. Tinkering with a couple things. How far out from the side of the hull did you decide on? Longridge does not say. I think I am going to bring the ring out flush with the front edge of the channel.
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Ian I am tinkering around with different ideas of how to make the little bracket that holds the main sheet tackle away from the side of the ship. Obviously Heller did not provide such a piece. What did you make for this piece?
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Thanks John. I appreciate your sharing what you have done. I am planning to use gold leaf on the decorations as Kpnuts did. That is going to require some practice before I actually start application.
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15 MONTHS!!! Today is my 15 month anniversary of starting this beauty. Almost all of he rigging done. Still have to do all the braces, the sheets/tacks/clews, for the bottom yards, and I am sure some other odd and end rigging bits here and there. Looking in the kit box all I have left to put on the ship is the already assembled and painted anchors, boats with the davits, and Daniel’s mast top rails. I still have to finish the tedious job of painting the lanterns and installing them with Daniel’s etched supports. All in all this has been an incredible learning experience thanks to each of you that has provided me advice and help!
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Great Ian. I have been reading through that section and understanding everything you explaining. I know when I start my SR I am going to wish I had your first hand experience. Since both the Heller Victory and SR are 1/100 scale i plan to use the spreadsheet you sent me for rigging thread sizes.
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Ian a good while back we had a discussion here, you may remember, about me having put to small diameter thread in to be later used as the sheet and tack lines for the lower yards. Now that I am in the sheet installation stage it was time for me to make this correction. The problem being that one end of each of these lines was already belayed on a lower deck and difficult to access. I used your suggestion of removing the thin thread and inserting the appropriate size into the hole, pulling it through to where I could access it, tying a knot in the end, and then pulling it back to where the knot was locked inside. It worked perfect and will be ready to do the sheets and tacks. I am making the four 3 block arrangements I will need for this step. I will then finish up the major rigging with the braces. I am doing some advance reading about the braces. Anything you would recommend in advance here? I have seen there is some discussion as to the use, or not, of yard pendants
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Thank you Ian. I guess you are right that one would not want to clean me out there! 😳 Two steps forward and one step back. So as I go back to make these corrections, none of the running rigging lines we are referencing belay at or around the bottom deadeye at the channel (as I have done it 😕) they belay to a shroud cleat just above the upper deadeye and obviously inboard on the shroud? And they all pass down through the lubber’s hole? Got it. Easy fix. I know, if I would thoroughly read and reread Longridge, as you have recommended numerous times, I would not make these mistakes. Looking at pages 266-268 ( Longridge Belaying Plan) I count 12 lines on each side that belay to cleats on shrouds? Is that right?
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Got another curiosity. As I move throughout the different rigging lines there are few lines (not many) here and there that originate or pass through blocks up around the 3 topgallant yards or the upper section of the mast. The rigging instructions say to pass the line outside the mast top and belay to a particular deadeye on a designated channel. As a result these lines are also outboard the shrouds as they continue down to the channel. I have belayed them at the outboard on the deadeye. Now that I have virtually finished the rigging lines that belay at the deadeyes I am wondering, and hoping, outboard is correct. The only way I can see to rig them inboard at the bottom deadeye would be to lace these few lines through the shrouds and ratlines, which I think would look kind of odd.
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Thanks Ian. That is what I eventually did. Just tied them at the timber heads. Ian I am currently reading the Master and Commander book. It is interesting there is a large section in one chapter discussing the crewman using the futtock shrouds instead of the lubber’s hole. One of the fictional crewman talks about being on the futtock shrouds when the ship would tilt to that side in a wave. He says your body can get almost parallel to the water with no ship under you. He says he just wraps his arms in the shrouds and hangs on until the ship tilts back the other direction to where he is close to vertical then climbs again. Must have been an exciting time during rough seas. One thing I have learned during this Victory build that I most definitely will do on my SR build and any further builds, is make my own fife rails using strong wire for the belay pins. I have needed to tie and untie a number of the sheets and clewlines as I have made minor adjustments along the way. There is no way the little plastic bits on the rails provided in the kit would have stood up. They would have broken off very early in the process and I would have been at a loss how to belay the line.
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Sheets and clewlines done in both of he bowsprit yards and the top two on the foremast. Have not done the sheet, tack, and clewline on the bottom yard yet. I am thinking of waiting nearer the end of rigging to add these lines. I think it might be easier to still access the inner belay points if these lines were not in the way let. (Note: Hope you guys don’t crazy when you read my post and I don’t use correct nautical terms for the yards. I know their names, it is just faster to say top or bottom 😊) Looking at my first picture here after I posted it, I see the allusion of my middle yard being pulled off level by the sheet. Will have to inspect to see if that is correct and make necessary corrections if needed.
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Can you guys tell me where specifically the spritsail topsail yard clueline belays? One set of instructions I read says to belay to the beakhead fife rail I am not sure what that is or where at the beakhead. Longridge on page 239 just says belay on forecastle.
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Can you guys tell me where specifically the spritsail topsail yard clueline belays? One set of instructions I read says to belay to the beakhead fife rail I am not sure what that is or where at the beakhead. Longridge on page 239 just says belay on forecastle.
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Kpnuts it has obviously been several years since you posted about your Soleli Royal. I am wondering if you still read or post here on MSW. If you do see this I have a question I hope you will answer. I am about to start my Heller Soleli Royal and I also plan to guild the ship decorations with gold leaf as you did. I am looking at your progress pictures at the beginning. Did you gold leaf the complete piece is hen paint in the blue over the gold leaf. That is what it looks like in your pictures. Or did you paint the pieces and then guild over the painted decorations with the gold leaf?
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