Bill97
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When I am not working on my Victory I am reading this great little book I picked up. Admiral Nelson’s Pocket Manual 1805. Not reading it so much for tips on building the model, even though there are a number of physical features of the ship included in the pocket manual, I am fascinated more about his reports of general daily life on board the Victory in 1805. Some of the interesting charts included in the book are the rations planned for each crewman, the pay scale by rank/position, the age of his crew, and most interesting is the discipline. Chart indicates by name offense a crewman committed and number of lashes he got for the crime. If a crime was committed that warranted the death penalty a crewman was hung from a yard and left there for an hour or more for others to witness as a deterrent.
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Started out working on the 100+ cannons by airbrushing surface primer on the carriage and wheel parts while still all together. Thought this would be easier than assembling them first and then priming them individually one at a time. I have now realized I may have to scratch the primer off the connection points before I can glue them. Maybe I should build the carriages minus the barrels and then prime and paint them. This is definitely a pace yourself task as you all know. Have seen some beautiful paint jobs on the cannons here on MSW. Hope I can come close to the work others have done.
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Oh no Daniel I don’t mind at all. I enjoy the different conversations. As you can tell we are up to page 5 and I have only just begun my build. I hope everyone continues to share and discuss on my blog throughout. I have decided to wait until I get your plates before I add the Evergreen to the hull to increase the wale. I will need to remove the molded rigors to add the Evergreen. Don’t want to do that until I have the new ones in hand. Just in case something would happen that I would not get them. Working on guns now while I patiently wait.
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Thanks Daniel. This build is getting very enjoyable. Looking forward to receiving my delivery from you in a couple weeks!
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Alright I believe this is going to work once I glue it in place. A little extra work to knock off about .5 mm in depth but should not be to much trouble. If you do this modification you for sure have to get Daniel’s plate 2 with the rigors. The Evergreen covers 6 on each side. Thanks everyone for helping me understand this. For sure was scratching my head.
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Thanks Ian. You are a great help. My hobby shop did not have those great sizes so I bought. 1mm sheet and will just cut some 3 mm strips and some 1 mm strips. Glue them on and sand down about 1/2 mm. Will probably use a little course grain paper to establish some wood grain. Will let you know how it goes.
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Thanks Ian. I may head back to my Hobby Lobby and check again. Regardless which Evergreen size I use to accomplish the task, am I right that I want to add 1mm at the top and 3mm at the bottom? And about .5mm deep?
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Ok here I go. Daniel if you are out there give me a holler if I am wrong. I am assuming the Evergreen measurement is .44mm deep and 1mm tall. .44mm is close to the depth of the raised area on the hull at this point. So if that is correct I am widening the raised area 1mm at the top and 3mm at the bottom. Unfortunately the thinnest Evergreen I could find is 1mm so I may have to sand it down flush with the existing raised area. Somebody holler if I am wrong before I screw up! 😳😀
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Thanks Tedrobinson. That is what was causing all my confusion. In Daniel’s photo it looked like just a long narrow strip of Evergreen mounted on top of the hull and running that distance. That is what I thought Daniel was recommending I make, not the two white stripes. I could not see the hammock carriers in the photo and thought it was just raising the height of the hull. All is good. Thanks to MSW!
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Daniel in your photo what is the thing my arrow is pointing to? That is what I originally thought you were recommending i fabricate? Cold not figure it out. As far as painting the black and ochre, the molded line on the hull was the line separating the colors. I will still use that point as the paint division line not widen to the edge of the Evergreen.
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Ok so tell me if I got this right. In the photo I put a couple pierce of masking tape above and below the molded line. The top 1mm x .4 mm and the bottom 1mm x .4 three times. Is this what I need to do with Evergreen?
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Ok thanks gentlemen, especially you Daniel. I did not email you with the question because I thought I bugged you enough with my order! 😊 So the work I need to do is represented by the white lines in the photo? I was so confused. I was thinking I needed to build up the height of the bow. In the picture there appears to be a light cream color stripe on top the hull at the stern end and maybe even at the front. This cream color stripe is what I was thinking I needed to fabricate and attach to the top edge of the hull. I am guessing now that the cream color object is just something in the photo? It even blocks the view of the bottom of the mizzenmast. What is that?
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Marc and Old Collingwood it is from his instructions for plate 2. See if you can enlarge it enough to read.
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HELP! This is a request for help from any one that has widened the wales as Daniel recommends. I am reading and looking over the photos in the PDF for etched plate 2. Not sure I fully understand what I am to do. Looks like it is on the front of the ship as well as the back. Does it extend higher than the top of the stern? If so does that look weird. Need some elementary level instructions here! Or if you did not do it, did it cause a problem?
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Small deck painting modification. After my last post I continued to look at my paint job and decided I wanted to highlight the hatches with a little lighter color. Not sure if it is authentic but I like it better.
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Ok a little progress today. Finished applying the .100 and .125 Evergreen to frame all the gunports and primed them for future painting. Really like the effect of goby the illusion of the bow being thicker. As I mentioned above, I look at my previous builds with open gunports and wish I could go back in time to redo them. I guess this will show the progress of my building skills. Also finished painting my deck sections. I weathered the deck in darker old aged wood colors. I attempted to add a little extract dark wash in areas that would have had heavier foot traffic.
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Woo Hoo! Looked what the friendly delivery truck just dropped at my door. It is like Christmas around here! 😀
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Thanks Marc. We are the same on the plastic to plastic with Testors. Since the use of Daniel’s etched parts will be my first attempt at bonding dissimilar materials the CA glues will be a nice addition. Again thanks to you and Ian for your sharing your wealth of knowledge.
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Interesting. See all this new stuff I am learning. Is the CA what you use for your plastic parts as well? I have always used regular Testor plastic model cement in a tube or Tamiya plastic cement in a bottle with a brush. For my rigging knots I use regular school white glue diluted with water. I like it because if I need to loosen a knot after the fact I can put some water on it with a paint brush and the glue will dissolve. It does darken the lighter threads a bit at the knot. Of course that does not matter with dark brown or black thread. Congratulations on them Canadiens! Great job! Are your arenas back to full capacity yet? Here in Louisville we have finally gotten back to full capacity.
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Ian I meant to ask you if that Krazy Glue is slow or quick drying. I would think I would want a glue that gives me a few seconds to make sure the part is positioned correctly. Right?
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Thanks Ian. I was thinking of a crazy glue type product. I see a number of people refer to an adhesive they use as CA. Curious what does that mean? Thanks for the nice words Old Collingwood.
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Woo Hoo! Desired plates and new resin pieces ordered from Daniel. He tells me 2-3 weeks possibly. Thanks Daniel. In the meantime guys so I can get in extra supplies what adhesive do I need to attach Daniel’s brass etched pieces to the plastic. I am thinking maybe a slow set superglue?
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Great conversation on the merits of my new phrase “kit bashing”. Now that I have learned and understand it is OK to operate outside the box, literally, it gives a since of freedom to experiment as long as I maintain a measure of authenticity. Sometimes I wish I could go back and rebuild my Revell 1/96 USS Constitution. I built it strictly to the letter of the instructions. It is a beautiful model but I wonder how much better it could have been. I don’t dare go into the MSW vault to read build logs for it. I am sure I will see so many things I will be disappointed I did not do. As far as my Victory goes I am now in a bit of a hold pattern on painting the hull and stern. I have communicated with Daniel to purchase several of his etched plates and a couple resin parts. Two of which are the one plate, I think it is #2, that has the little decorative pieces that go above the cannon ports and the new resin balusters for the stern. Will need to get them before I can proceed much with painting. Since that is the case I believe I am going to set the hull aside and dig into the million parts that make up the cannons! Maybe work on the life board as well.
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