Bill97

Rob I read through page 7 of your Great Republic build. This initial part covered your hull build and ingenious copper platings. Simply incredible!  I don’t know if I am worthy to even discuss model ship building with you!  Probably should just throw my models in the trash and take up knitting or macrame 😊.  Your skills and inventiveness are very impressive! Looking so forward to reading more of the GR build. Going to spend a little time on my Cutty Sark today, which until now I thought was kind of intense delicate work, much like my recent Construction build. But now after reading about your build this just might be child’s play!  😀

Again great job. I am sure you are proud of it, and all your models. 

Thanks VTHookie, that explains the confusion. 
 

Bill

Rob I found it!  I bookmarked it and plan to read all the way through it. I am very early in my Cutty Sark build so it will be a while before I am ready to make my finished sails. Plenty of time to practice. 
 

Another question for you and gang, when you plan to add sails I know the yards are supposed to be turned (not sure what the correct term is) at an angle, not perpendicular to the ship. Is that amount just personal preference, or do you have a set amount you use?  

Thanks Rob. I am really anxious to see it. 
 

Bill

Rob I am just not having any luck finding what to click on to see your Great Republic. You said look at your sig line at the bottom of any of your comments. The photo is a screen shot of the bottom of one of your comments. What should I be seeing?

Thanks Rob. I have searched for your build of the Great Republic but can’t find it in the quick index. Where can I find it?

Shipman these are Bob Fraser’s drawings. It is so interesting the history of this ship. And so unfortunate that we cannot know exactly how she was at first launch.  Building it now while knowing it is not an exact replica of the original design does diminish it a bit, but I hope to build a beautiful display model and keep the secret of her changes to my self. 98 percent of the people who will see my model in person will have no idea! 🙂

Thanks Bob. This is very interesting. I think 1932 was about the time the ship was sold, reconfigured, and began begin used for training purposes. Wonder the time thought that led to the anchor chains on deck. Guess we will never know. 
 

Bill

Great Rob. Thanks. From looking at the pictures and reading your instructions I think I am understanding but I do have a few clarification questions. (1) In your instructions you mention knowing the size 12~24”.  Not completely sure I know what you mean there. I have the molded plastic sails that came in the kit. Could I just match the size of each of them?  (2) It looks like the vertical lines across the sail are the ones you drew in. Is that correct?  And for the spacing could I again mimic the lines on the plastic sails!  (3) and the last question is about the edging you put around. I understand you only put it on the top and sides, not the bottom?  And it also looks as if on the larger sails you have 2 horizontal strips about mid way, and one on the smaller sail. 

Good morning Shipman. I too have tried to research old pictures and data about the CS but not much. I did notice on the current videos that the anchor chain no longer comes up from below deck through the pipes. I don’t know if that is just to prevent a trip hazard for tourists or what. Wonder if those pipes were and chain route were old modifications from the original design construction?  Possibly the anchor chain was originally stored, let out, and pulled back in from a lower deck. What is your thought?

Rob I printed out the above instructions you gave for making your paper sails. I have read over it a couple times and am going to practice your method before attempting to make them for my Cutty Sark. I hope you don’t mind if I from time to time ask you a question or clarification on what may seem to be simple or obvious. 

Thanks Shipman. I had the same curiosity about the anchor chain placement. Thought in actuality it would tear up everything when anchor dropped. I use this YouTube video for reference and could not find any footage of the chain on the ship. 

Continued the build for a while today. Added a number of elements to the deck. After solving the anchor chain challenge prior to my last post, I have found the Revell instructions to be pretty clear and straight forward. The instruction book does list recommended colors with most being in the matt sheen. I have watched a number of YouTube videos of the actual Cutty Sark museum. There does seem to be a bit of shine in n a number of the structures and machinery on the deck. So I have opted to use a satin or gloss enamel on those pieces to add visual effect and contrast with the flat/matt finish of the deck. 

OK Thanks JeffT. This is the link to it. Please advise if I have done anything wrong, or failed to do a step. As I said I am fairly new to the site and am learning. 

Good morning. I am fairly new to the site. I have a few postings and discussions. I am curious how I add my new build to the Quick-Find Indexes to Build Logs from Kits?  
I recently started a new build of the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark post that has had a few replies but it does not show in the quick index. I am certain it is because I need to do something with the post but don’t know what. Thanks for your great job with the site. I find it extremely helpful. 

https://cuttysarkdrydock.wordpress.com/2011/09/23/the-cutty-sark-windlass-revamp/
 

To give credit where credit is due for idea. 

A good bit of small painting and fitting including the little brass bell. Since the instructions did not explain real well how to do the anchor chain I improvised. I think looking at the picture in the instructions Ravell wanted the builder to simply glue the chain on top the deck and an additional piece coming out of the bow, as if it was one continuous chain. I did not want to do that. I drilled holes in the deck up under the forecastle, ran the chain down through and fished it out the bow. The other ends I wrapped around the windlass and then back to the chain gate covers where I had drilled two additional holes and fed the chain ends into. I think it came out OK. Enough for today. 

Thanks VTHokiee. I was able to use a combination of both your ideas and suggestions from another blogger. Got it done. 

HELP!  Anyone who has, or is now, building the Revell Cutty Sark!  The assembly instructions has the deck in already. Step 9 shows installing the anchor chain. There are no holes in the deck for the chain to go down through in order to come out the holes in the bow. What did you do?  I am stumped!

Clearway now you tell me! 😀

Henke I used a product on the deck that was recommended to me. I don’t know if it is new or not. Vallejo makes an acrylic spray set of colors for “old and new wood” effect. It is basically a process where I applied (airbrushed) a primer coat of one color, then a second color. After they thoroughly I took a .01 pigment pen and carefully drew in all the lines representing the individual deck boards. After that it was just a matter of applying various other colors on random boards and light and dark washes of the thinned acrylics until I was satisfied with the outcome. Then finally I gave it a few coats of a Matt finish lacquer for protection. Giving ample time between base coats for drying I would say the process took maybe 4 different days I worked on it. 

I built the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark some 50-55 years ago as a teenager. After recently finishing the Revell USS Constitution I decided to do the Cutty Sark again using the skills I have refined over the years as well as the patience that comes with age. This time I decided to work with acrylics as well as enamels to achieve the effects I want, or hope for. Will include more pics as I make my way. 

OK wefalck, the deck is now matt. Have to admit I do like it better. 

Wefalck. I know you are right on the matt finish. I thought about that after I finished it. Tried to convince myself it was OK but obviously it is noticeable to anyone who knows about these ships. Probably should give it a couple coats of matt finish before I progress any further. 

I ultimately went with a lacquer in a spray can. Numerous very light coats. Basically one swipe across the surface each time and ample drying time between each. Seems to have come out all right. Went with a semi-gloss. I am satisfied. 

Wefalck, if you were me would you leave the color alone now or put a lighter wash on it? I don’t want to sand it down now that it is done to remove the simulated wood grain and start over. Will live with it on this ship and maybe do that on my next one.