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ubjs

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  1. ubjs
    Vallejo has a kit for wood and leather, 8 bottles and a guide, ref no 70.182. Colors are 847, 923, 981, 983, 872, 828, 939, 950. https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/sets/effects-en/wood-and-leather-70182/
  2. ubjs
    I know that I could use chemical blackening but would it work with some spray paint? Building brass model railroad waggons I have used a primer also used for reparation on cars, zinkspray. Would it work on brass fittings for model ships also or is it too coarse-grained? Some other ideas?
  3. ubjs
    I just wanted to check if someone had tried it. No one has, but many thinks its a bad idea. Well, its not the end of the world trying it, if it doesnt work I just glue plank by plank.
  4. ubjs
    I think this Marisstella Ontario is not a good kit. Read the two logs on this forum and choose another kit if you not have built several others before. Guess how I found out that the words ¨expert¨ on Billings kit really meant something.
  5. ubjs
    The boat model that I build on is the steamer Bohuslän and the decks are simple in shape but large and quite numerous. Now I will lay the stern deck which is built in and will not be visible so much from the outside so I thought I would try to make it a little easier. There should be a lot of chairs and tables on it as well. I shall test doublesided clear tape as I have used when building roads for Faller cars on my model railroad modules. I used it for securing the guiding metalthread that the cars follow, and I have some tape left. Maybe I tape it on paper and then glue the whole thing at the false deck.
  6. ubjs
    What glue do you use? I glued a deck and it took a lot of time and my wife wandered how I could spend som much time accomplish just that. I glued every plank with yellow glue, but I`m not sure I got glue everywhere, maybe I was too afraid of getting glue on top of the deck.
  7. ubjs
    Gluing plank by plank takes time and I dont get glue under the whole plank. If I cut and lay all deckplanks and secure them with eachother with tape, then lift the whole thing and glue, put it back. Someone working this way?
  8. ubjs
    All buildings and I got some inspiration to carry on building them. We run what we like, english, german, us and some swedish. I have a Lenz startset and some brass kits on the shelf of swedish goods wagons.
  9. ubjs
    https://www.vasamuseet.se/en/exhibitions/vasa-model
  10. ubjs
    https://internationaldragonsailing.net/the-dragon/
  11. ubjs
    Oh, the pictures became bigger than I thougt, some adjustments should be done at the connection of the walls. The bottle is 75 cl, if it had been alcohol in it, we call it ¨helrör¨ in swedish.
  12. ubjs
    This project stopped in mars 2020, when Corona entered the scene I completly lost inspiration for building modules for model railroading. But now it looks better again and I have taken up this one where I left it. I´m building what I call ¨advanced mockups¨, I have made most of the walls for ca 10 buildings and shall make the roofs. All in 0,8 mm card. Then I will go on and build the models on the card with balsawood and doors, windows of Evergreen plastic strips. So the mockups will be reused as ground for the ¨real¨ modelhouses, thats why I call them ¨advanced mockups¨:) Here is a picture of a solution for putting the walls together. Its for solving the transportation problem I wrote about above in june 8 2020!
  13. ubjs
    ¨Interesting note there. As a retailer of kits, I see this on a regular basis. Another way to ask this question would be, "why are you building models?" Another view of this, is it really that important that you finish the model? If you have fun and enjoy building why bother if its not finished, but that was maybe what you wrote. I dont have a problem taking up a build that I have left, if I get the inspiration. My ¨problem¨ is that after a while I feel bored and continue with some other building project, a boat or modelrailroading. I dont know if its me or the persons around me that have a problem with me not finishing models, something to think about as well.
  14. ubjs
    Thank you for this RockinBudgie, its good to know your not alone. My answer to the question is too many and no one finished. But I still have a dream and build something nearly every day, so maybe some day .........
  15. ubjs
    I read this thread and have a question. Two times it is pointed out that the Caldercraft kit is very hugh. Caldercraft is 1/72 and Billings is 1/75, I think its 4 cm on the length. Is that a big difference for a model ship? The price for Caldercraft is twice as much than Billings. Twice as good? BikerMart wrote that he had built Billings Endeavour and Billings Bounty. I would say that the difference with Victory is the smaller scale, 1:75 against 1:50 for Endeavour and Bounty. I think that the best ¨Victory¨ for BikerMart could be the Nuestra Senora del Pilar from Occre in scale 1/46! I compare with scratchbuilding houses for model railroading. Going from 0-scale to H0-scale would make it more difficult even impossible to do everything in the right scale (windows). I think its even worse in ship model building, I now has understood that I cant build anything in ships smaller than 1/50, maybe 1/60. I have seen wonderful builds in 1/100 but I cant understand how they build them. If I was BikerMart I would at least buy a smaller boat from same period as Victory in scale 1/75, to try the scale before investing a lot of money and a lot of time. I have several kits in 1/75, but I think my grandchildren will have to build them.
  16. ubjs
    Up and running (feels not right about a ship). https://www.gotheborg.se/
  17. ubjs
    Master Korabel kits I think is very good and maybe the woodenkits who is most like plastic kits. They have a Cannon Jolle from 1801, not much rigging. I think that the first wooden kits you build will not be fantastic but its fun building wooden kits. Just buy a kit and start building!
  18. ubjs
    I build on a steamboat, the hull and the superstructure are largely white. I'm thinking about which is best, to paint the hull first and lay and varnish the deck then or vice versa? I think it might be best to paint the white first because the decks should not be painted and I do not want to get white paint on them.
  19. ubjs
    I have Deagostini-kit and I think it is the same as AL:s. You could read this forum before building next steps: https://forum.model-space.co.uk/default.aspx?g=topics&f=540 You have the official build diary of Deagostini Vasa there and some members builds.
  20. ubjs
    I think it's resin. Here is a close up. It would be very good with tips on painting and sanding because I have no experience with resin.
  21. ubjs
    These are details for my kit by the steamer Bohuslän. To Mariefred from the same manufacturer, it was white metal castings. But these look good, but think a little about the color.
  22. ubjs
    What sails did a ship like Vasa have set in severe weather?
  23. ubjs
    If I am going to show a modelship in a stand, in this case Vasa from 1628, should one show the starboard or port side?
  24. ubjs
    _One idea, just plank one side of the ship.
  25. ubjs
    Hi I have both Billings and DiAgostinis Vasa and the difference is hugh, I think its not right to compare them. DiAgostini-kit price is twice that of Billings, ofcourse the most is better in DiAgostini. I am a beginner myself so I cant tell if all is ok in DiAgostini kit. I think its the same kit you could buy from Artesania Latina https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-elite/62091-wooden-model-ship-kit-swedish-warship-vasa-1-65-8437021128031.html One thing I like with the 1/65-kit is the basic construction of the ship. Much more stable than Billings. The wood I think is better in the 1/65-kit, its really bad in Billings.

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