pnevrin
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Everything posted by pnevrin
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Martin, yes it was bloody fiddly. I've since reused some really thin mahogany veneer which looks a bit better. Still only done one of the windows...I also made the mistake of looking at Dan's Vulture and felt I failed. I know he's in a class of his own and in 1/48 scale, but still... Will do door knobs but haven't decided on what to use yet. They and the hinges will have to be tiny in this scale. Probably card for the hinges. Jason - thought about doing the batten but came to the same conclusion as you. I don't think it will show through the gun port or from the front. Good call on the Yamazaki, my new favourite single malt! Currently doing some more planking with decent results. Great to see it grow. More pics to follow! - Per -
Looks great Mike. Like the colour of the stern and wale timber! Are you painting your Pegasus at all? - Per
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Been busy making the aft bulkhead partition. I won't be making the one further aft for the captain's quarters since I'm not showing that part from the outside. It's pretty fiddly at this scale and I'm not entirely sure I got it right. I will definitely redo the vents in the door windows (one tester done) since I need thinner timbers for that size scale. Just dry-fitted for now. building it up with lime wood on a scrap piece of cutoff ply done minus the vents and door handles. simulated the door openings with a sharp 2B pencil. dry fitted in place. There is a rather unfortunate dip in the decking in the middle, for you hawk-eyed folks out there. - Per
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Hi Holty, Thanks - you've built a great Lady Nelson so far. Mine is still fairly intact although the rigging got slightly damaged in our last move. I remember it being a lot of fun to build, especially as a first kit for a beginner.I read your log and to answer your question on Lauckstreet DVDs - they were lacking and cumbersome in some respects but I did learn quiet a bit about planking and rigging + some other techniques. Nothing I couldn't find here mind you but at the time I was more comfortable doing that from home. I think I made a mistake taking on the Montanes after the LN. Single planking, awfully big, etc. I would really recommend something like the Fly/Pegasus after, or the Revenge? - Per
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Looks good Martin. How far in are they recessed? I'm thinking they need to be recessed the equivalent of the thickness of the middle part of the gun port hatch so when shut, it's flush against the lining? (does that make sense?) - Per
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I noticed that as I was looking at the plans today! Coincidence, I think not. Anyway, will definitely alter the hatch on lower deck now.
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thanks Spyglass, So you're saying if I make the lower hatch slightly smaller it will allow for the ladder to naturally connect with the lower deck? I guess that concession would be less visible than making changes up top. - Per
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Love the look of this kit. Don't mind if I follow along to see how she progresses! Nice kit presentation as well btw. - Per
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thanks chaps - It's coming together. I now need to read up on the other posts about the ladder that goes straight into the coaming hatch from quarter deck. Not sure how to solve it unless you don't make the ladder as steep as intended. But before that, onto the remaining second planking and then gun port linings! - Per
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update: Finished the lower deck planking and the bulwark inner lining + painted. Worked a LOT on squaring off the gun ports properly. Looking at the photos there is still cleaning up to do.
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That means I shouldn't have done my inner bulwark lining before I lined the gunports... oh well. Vol 2 of TFFM is in the mail so may halt building for now until I can read up. Your Fly is looking mighty good Martin. THe second planking on your build looks so much lighter in colour than mine. Did I miss something earlier in your log, ie you're using a different timber for the planking? EDIT: just saw you're using boxwood. order restored! - Per
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I agree on the holly, but it does have staining potential if you're so inclined. Maple is an interesting choice and a great piece of timber. Have to go check out your Badger now!
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Thanks Mike. Yep, I wish I could have gotten something harder and lighter than the kit tanganyika but so far I'm liking the quality. The width varies from plank to plank so it's a bit of a puzzle but the coloration is good I think.
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oh, and I just ordered TFFM vol 2 from Seawatch! Came out to $100 with shipping... By the way, I was slapped with VAT + handling when I ordered the Syren cannon kit. It was labelled merchandise and correct value but Customs decided they wanted VAT for it. Had to go to the Royal Mail depot and pay £20/$30 extra to take home, which kind of sucks. - Per
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I've been squirrelling away at the remaining deck planking on the lower deck. It's been a while since I last did this so of course I got the butt joint pattern wrong. I am too far in to correct now and it will have to pass. I do like the way the black thread turns out with PVA for caulking. I know not everyone is a fan of too thick caulking representation but I think it works personally. It's just been oiled and still need a bit of cleaning up so it will pop less when dry. Next, other side of the deck and then complete the bulwark inside lining. - Per
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hey Mike - regarding TFFM, ideally I wouldn't mind getting all 4 in used condition. Vol 2 looks like the one I need right now then. The wood filler method for the treenails turned out to be surprisingly easy (thanks to the builder of the Essex who's name fails me right now). After oiling and wiping I painted with admirality blue and black to see if the oil would repell it but it turned out nicely. I may just mark the treenails on the deck planking but haven't made up my mind yet. I am working on the rest (pics to follow) and using black thread and PVA for caulking which makes it tricky to scrape or sand very much. thanks again for all the recommendations, really helpful. - Per
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Michael - just catching up with this log. It's a real work of art. As a Swede I've been to see it many times (first was in the early 70's when it was in a temporary building still and sprayed with preservatives) and you have really captured the spirit of this ship. Lots of great scratch building and artistry! - Per
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Thanks Coleman - I've heard about the bristles from a brush as well. Pretty pleased with this as it is so much less work
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Been thinking about treenailing... something I find daunting. The method others have used is wood filler, which appeals to me. Made up a dummy section (don't knock it, took all but 5 minutes) It may be hard to see the difference but I used Colron neutral wood filler and Admiral Walnut Stain to get the right tint to the filler. Finished off with sanding + Colron Finishing Oil which is " a superior blend of resins and tung oil". - Per
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good input Martin. Will order them from Seawatch. Think it comes out to £100 inc shipping to the UK.
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Mike, if I could find it on eBay for $35 I would be a happy camper. The last time I checked they were indeed going for ridiculous amounts of money. I may order straight from Seawatch. Jason - I agree, it sounds like they are a bit of a holy grail for the Swan class ships and I find myself thinking 'what did it really look like on this particular area'. So probably need to get them! - Per
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Mike, I'll have to take a look at the result on your build log. Seems like everyone's had a different take on this part of the kit.
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thanks everyone for the encouraging words. Regarding the stern, the idea I have now is not to do the curved planking since most of that will be painted over anyway. On the other hand, I don't like taking shortcuts... As you can see, I've kept the camber halfway up but no curved planks and then the idea was to sand down the top plank (to 'curve' it) so the windowed transom piece of plywood will fit. Still haven't decided 100% which way to go. I kind of like the way it looks now.
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Will do, just need to feed the monsters first. I may redo the stern actually. It doesn't have the right lateral bend of the planks.
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Hi Sjors, that's a great looking Aggie you've got there. I haven't been on here for ages but finally have some time again. best, - Per
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