NAZGÛL

Hey all, here is an update finally. I've done the other side of the mainmast and made the portside of the mizzen mast. I found it difficult to imitate the sagging curves of the original, but it was easier on the mizzen as the shrouds are angled straight up. First a reference pic I took at the museum:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
/Matti

What I have used with excellent results is flat clear varnish. It dries flat, invisible, no shiny spots as with CA and is just strong enough to do the job.

As always the photos are as much a part of the beauty as the Wasan herself.
 
The last 2 photos of the port bow and stern are perfectly angled for maximum effect of the sculpture viewing and the Wasan's great tumblehome shape that is so strikingly beautiful.
 
The photo of the rat-lined shrouds reaching to the sky, makes me think of a favorite Zeppelin tune... and she's climbing a stairway to heaven....
 
Beautiful work. Just stunning!

Excellent job Matti! I read on the Vasa forum that the shrouds may need to be configured differently according to Fred at the museum. Are you going to continue with yours or wait until the rigging book comes out? Have you heard any news as to when the book is due out?
 
/Mark

What a wonderful comparison!
 
Love it, Daniel

Hey all, here is an update finally. I've done the other side of the mainmast and made the portside of the mizzen mast. I found it difficult to imitate the sagging curves of the original, but it was easier on the mizzen as the shrouds are angled straight up. First a reference pic I took at the museum:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
/Matti

Hey all, here is an update finally. I've done the other side of the mainmast and made the portside of the mizzen mast. I found it difficult to imitate the sagging curves of the original, but it was easier on the mizzen as the shrouds are angled straight up. First a reference pic I took at the museum:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
/Matti

Hey all, here is an update finally. I've done the other side of the mainmast and made the portside of the mizzen mast. I found it difficult to imitate the sagging curves of the original, but it was easier on the mizzen as the shrouds are angled straight up. First a reference pic I took at the museum:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
/Matti

Hey all, here is an update finally. I've done the other side of the mainmast and made the portside of the mizzen mast. I found it difficult to imitate the sagging curves of the original, but it was easier on the mizzen as the shrouds are angled straight up. First a reference pic I took at the museum:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
/Matti

Hey all, here is an update finally. I've done the other side of the mainmast and made the portside of the mizzen mast. I found it difficult to imitate the sagging curves of the original, but it was easier on the mizzen as the shrouds are angled straight up. First a reference pic I took at the museum:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
/Matti

Hey all, here is an update finally. I've done the other side of the mainmast and made the portside of the mizzen mast. I found it difficult to imitate the sagging curves of the original, but it was easier on the mizzen as the shrouds are angled straight up. First a reference pic I took at the museum:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
/Matti

Cheers Lawrence and Tony! I don't plan to use the lantern and didn't prepaire for any lighting for it.
 
 
We can't know how one would look, but after seing lanterns on Vasa models like Marks, I got an urge to do one so I may change my mind later on.
 
 
/Matti

Cheers Lawrence and Tony! I don't plan to use the lantern and didn't prepaire for any lighting for it.
 
 
We can't know how one would look, but after seing lanterns on Vasa models like Marks, I got an urge to do one so I may change my mind later on.
 
 
/Matti

Cheers Lawrence and Tony! I don't plan to use the lantern and didn't prepaire for any lighting for it.
 
 
We can't know how one would look, but after seing lanterns on Vasa models like Marks, I got an urge to do one so I may change my mind later on.
 
 
/Matti

Hi Matti, nice progress on the rigging mate. Are you going to put a lantern  at the stern? I have seen other manufacturers have included one with their kits but is there any evidence to support this
Tony

Very nice walkthrough of your work, thanks for showing.
 
 
 
/Matti

Now as promised,a picture walkthrough of the steps involved milling the 'grating' with backing spacer.
 
First a safepark position was created with the mill,a slot around 2mm to 3mm wide 5mm deep(the sheet is 6mm thick)All work is done with a 1mm milling cutter

 
Step two was to machine 1.5mm slots 1.5mm deep that will form the grouves for the battens to lay in.

 
Step three was to mill 1.5mm slots 5mm deep perpendicular to the batten slots.These are the gaps between the ledges.All slots had 1.5mm of material inbetween them i.e. the centre to centre distance is 3mm.

 
Finally the sections at each end were cut off to enable easy fitting of the overlength battens.Now also in this pic,because I was determined to have a go with this method to produce a finer pattern grating,is one with 1mm holes and 1mm ledges and battens.This was a complete success,not one chip to any of the nibs,although removing the sawdust was a very careful job with a soft brush.I think this is the way forward for Mordaunt's gratings although 1mm pear sheet for the battens will have to wait as my supplier of this is currently on their holidays


 
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Great model based on a great ship! Well done Hans!
 
 
 
/Matti

Well this is it, she is finished. Maybe to the left or to the right some things could be added or improved, but I consider her ready.  Last pictures:
 






 
Thank you for watching! You were a nice audience! 

made some loose stuff for on the deck. Maybe it doesn't belong there, but in the hold was no space anymore...
 

 
 

Ouch I missed this, beautyful work Mark! Love the cannons.
 
 
 
/Matti

Lovely pictures mate! I'm happy to hear you have some freetime.
 
 
Those shiplines are just beautyful and your model really shows them.
 
 
 
/Matti

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

And here's the cross-section stuff:
 

Here's the pics for my Triton Build.  First up was test build of one of the cannon done in 1:24th