yamsterman

Hi druxey
Thanks for looking in.
Yep that's pretty much the way I'm going about it.....this is quite a small model even in 1/48 scale....being a clumsy sod sometimes I think if I tried to cut the rebates for sills and sweep ports after the frames are assembled I'm inviting a disaster.....so rebates are cut as frames are built....the acid test will be when the frames are up and a nice flexible batten is run along the the bottom edges do we arrive that lovely gentle sweep as per the plans?
But then again there's always isopropanol and some early Anglo Saxon language!!
Cheers....mick

Hi Patrick
Sorry to hear about your predicament. Wishing you a speedy recovery and plenty of laughing gas when they go up the whats it!!!!!!
Wishing you well asap
Cheers....mick

Hi Nils
Wow! Fantastic result! I love that bow shot now that the postings gone on......like a knife blade....ready to slice through some rough Atlantic waters.......superb!
Cheers....mick

Hi Patrick
Sorry to hear about your predicament. Wishing you a speedy recovery and plenty of laughing gas when they go up the whats it!!!!!!
Wishing you well asap
Cheers....mick

Guys
 
All I can say is that I am careful and slow to a fault.  Its tough to get stuff done this way.   But I do agree everyone should just slow down.  Its what I recommend  a lot of folks to do...
 
Anyway...back to Cheerful.
 
I was able after two attempts to shape the boom crutch and create a procedure for doing so.  The key was starting with a much thicker piece and making the boom crutch a bit over-sized to start.  I cut out the boom crutch on a piece of 1/4" thick boxwood and carefully adjusted for three angles.   When completed it will be just 1/8" wide to match the width of the fashion piece.  Now that the starboard side is complete I can do the other and take pictures at every step.  This is certainly one piece that needs slow and attentive care to the angles involved.  The boon crutch must be turned inboard slightly so the boom can actually sit in it.  This is tough because the fashion piece and the side of the hull goes in the opposite direction!!!   This one piece took me over four hours to produce, shape and paint to a finish I found acceptable.
 
A few careful reference marks and filing...then turn the piece inward and you are good to go!!!   I will have a step by step soon.  You can see the second boom crutch over-sized and ready to shape in one of the photos.  Note the tail is left long so the proper angles can be created while sanding it shorter.
 
Because the boom crutch was painted black it might be hard to see in these photos but essentially the boom crutch must match the angle of the fashion piece when viewed from the side and from astern in two planes while being turned to line up with the path of the boom (or the main mast).  All while hiding the seam between the two pieces...thank God it is supposed to be painted black.  
 

 

 

 

 

And THAT, my friends, is how the MASTERS do it.

Hi Christian
It is somewhat different. I decided to have a go as it looks like an ideal subject for a first attempt at a full pof hull.....not too many awkward half and can't frames and some interesting stern framing.....also only one main deck and fairly simple rigging. Should be a nice contrast to the previously built sloop from 1776.
Let's hope I can do it justice.
Cheers.....mick

Hi Patrick
Wonderful stuff as usual!
Very atmospheric shots outdoors......can't wait for the next build!
Shall be lurking around watching and waiting....inbetween trying to do some modelmaking.decorating,building furniture for a colleague at work etc etc!!!!
Cheers..,mick

Hi Nils
Beautiful and very graceful hull.....looking forward to the "skin" going on!
Cheers....mick

Hi Nils
Beautiful and very graceful hull.....looking forward to the "skin" going on!
Cheers....mick

Hi Patrick
Wonderful stuff as usual!
Very atmospheric shots outdoors......can't wait for the next build!
Shall be lurking around watching and waiting....inbetween trying to do some modelmaking.decorating,building furniture for a colleague at work etc etc!!!!
Cheers..,mick

Hi Nils
Beautiful and very graceful hull.....looking forward to the "skin" going on!
Cheers....mick

Thanks Mick!
 
Greatly appreciated and good luck with the building, etc.
 
All the best
 
Patrick

Hi Patrick
Wonderful stuff as usual!
Very atmospheric shots outdoors......can't wait for the next build!
Shall be lurking around watching and waiting....inbetween trying to do some modelmaking.decorating,building furniture for a colleague at work etc etc!!!!
Cheers..,mick

Hi Johann
A small work of art to reside next to a much larger work of art.!!!
Astounding and wonderful craftsmanship......my hat is well and truly off sir!!!!
Cheers....mick

Hi Johann
A small work of art to reside next to a much larger work of art.!!!
Astounding and wonderful craftsmanship......my hat is well and truly off sir!!!!
Cheers....mick

Hi Johann
A small work of art to reside next to a much larger work of art.!!!
Astounding and wonderful craftsmanship......my hat is well and truly off sir!!!!
Cheers....mick

Hi all
I've just purchased a copy of said programmer.
But I have absolutely no experience of using a cad program....where do I start? My ultimate aim is to translate a copy of the nmm plan for HMS cruiser into the program so I can plot and print out every single square and can't frame , plus all the other relevant timbers.
Some serious help is required as I am a total beginner at this. Any ideas?
Cheers.....mick

washington galley part 7.....stern framing
 
 
hi all
been a busy little bee making frames.
the aft most gunport has now been framed. all frames have been left slightly over length....i will mark in the sheer and trim the frames at a later date.
 
you will see from the photos that i have been trying to ensure as much accuracy as possible.
 
however the top of the lower starboard gunport sill is approx 0.28mm lower than the port sill.
 
in my book this is accurate enough! im not sure what tolerances the original shipwrights would have worked too but this difference equates to about 1/2 inch in real life.
 
ive also now started to construct the first two half frames at the bow.
you can see from the photos how much offset there is between the front and rear components of the frame.....the bevel when cut will bled all of that in.
 
i have also ganged up ablock of 1/8 inch stock ready to cut the hawse pieces at a later date.
 
anyway photos enclosed for your perusal...comments....critiques....most welcome 
 
cheers....mick

washington galley part 7.....stern framing
 
 
hi all
been a busy little bee making frames.
the aft most gunport has now been framed. all frames have been left slightly over length....i will mark in the sheer and trim the frames at a later date.
 
you will see from the photos that i have been trying to ensure as much accuracy as possible.
 
however the top of the lower starboard gunport sill is approx 0.28mm lower than the port sill.
 
in my book this is accurate enough! im not sure what tolerances the original shipwrights would have worked too but this difference equates to about 1/2 inch in real life.
 
ive also now started to construct the first two half frames at the bow.
you can see from the photos how much offset there is between the front and rear components of the frame.....the bevel when cut will bled all of that in.
 
i have also ganged up ablock of 1/8 inch stock ready to cut the hawse pieces at a later date.
 
anyway photos enclosed for your perusal...comments....critiques....most welcome 
 
cheers....mick

WASHINGTON GALLEY PART 5 . MORE TRANSOMS STERN TIMBERS AND FUNNY BENDY THINGS.
 
HI ALL
 
BEEN BUSY BEAVERING AWAY MAKING LOTS OF SAWDUST.
 
STARTED MAKING THE STERN FRAMING COMPONENTS AND THE REST OF THE TRANSOMS.
 
ALSO DID A PRACTICE RUN WITH THE STERN COUNTER FASHION PIECES,THESE ITEMS ARE SOMEWHAT AWKWARD THINGS TO MAKE,I ENDED UP GLUING TWO PIECES OF 1/4" STOCK TOGETHER IN ORDER TO GET THE RIGHT THICKNESS. I THINK IT WOULD BE BETTER TO CUT THESE FROM THE APPROPRIATE SINGLE THICKNESS......MAY BE ANOTHER ORDER TO TIMBERLINE! THE PRACTICE PIECES DONT LOOK TO BAD AND I MAY BE ABLE TO USE THEM......BUT THAT WILL HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL THE STERN FRAMING GOES TOGETHER AND I CAN PROPERLY TEST FIT THEM. ANYTHING NOT UP TO SPEC GETS REMADE!!!!!
 
I WILL LEAVE YOU WITH SOME PHOTOS TOO SEE WHAT YOU THINK.
 
CHEERS.....MICK
 
P.S. ANY PHOTOS OF PLANS ARE OBVIOUSLY COPYRIGHT OF THE N.R.G. AND JEFF STAUDT.

washington galley part 7.....stern framing
 
 
hi all
been a busy little bee making frames.
the aft most gunport has now been framed. all frames have been left slightly over length....i will mark in the sheer and trim the frames at a later date.
 
you will see from the photos that i have been trying to ensure as much accuracy as possible.
 
however the top of the lower starboard gunport sill is approx 0.28mm lower than the port sill.
 
in my book this is accurate enough! im not sure what tolerances the original shipwrights would have worked too but this difference equates to about 1/2 inch in real life.
 
ive also now started to construct the first two half frames at the bow.
you can see from the photos how much offset there is between the front and rear components of the frame.....the bevel when cut will bled all of that in.
 
i have also ganged up ablock of 1/8 inch stock ready to cut the hawse pieces at a later date.
 
anyway photos enclosed for your perusal...comments....critiques....most welcome 
 
cheers....mick

Hi don
Search for engineering tools or try mitutoyo,Moore and wright,starrett etc
Cheers....mick

washington galley part 7.....stern framing
 
 
hi all
been a busy little bee making frames.
the aft most gunport has now been framed. all frames have been left slightly over length....i will mark in the sheer and trim the frames at a later date.
 
you will see from the photos that i have been trying to ensure as much accuracy as possible.
 
however the top of the lower starboard gunport sill is approx 0.28mm lower than the port sill.
 
in my book this is accurate enough! im not sure what tolerances the original shipwrights would have worked too but this difference equates to about 1/2 inch in real life.
 
ive also now started to construct the first two half frames at the bow.
you can see from the photos how much offset there is between the front and rear components of the frame.....the bevel when cut will bled all of that in.
 
i have also ganged up ablock of 1/8 inch stock ready to cut the hawse pieces at a later date.
 
anyway photos enclosed for your perusal...comments....critiques....most welcome 
 
cheers....mick

Hi don
The vertical measuring device is a mitutoyo vernier gauge fitted with a carbide scribing blade.
To buy one new would probably give you palpitations!! These gauges are primarily designed for the engineering industry for use on a surface plate in either inspecting components or for marking out. This one was given to me some time ago buy an engineer I work with.
Probably the best place to look is on eBay.....I recently brought a brand new Moore and wright micro meter depth gauge for 1/10 of the catalogue price plus a couple of other mitutoyo items.
Hope this helps
Look forward to following your Washington build
Cheers....mick