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Greg M

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About Greg M

  • Birthday 12/06/1974

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    Melrose, MA

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  1. Wow. Looking great. Really impressed with your perseverance to restart at the point you did. I'll be watching with interest for lessons learned.
  2. Thanks Fred. I am absolutely loving this stage. Learning a new skill and then realizing it wasn't as hard as initially thought is always super motivating. I allowed myself a budget for saw and material for the same amount it would have cost to buy the items precut from Syren. The WEN was cheap enough that it left me with enough to buy the little belt sander. I have a 4 inch belt sander/circular sander, drum sander attachments for the drill press and a Dremel, but I can't file a 90 degree angle to save my life and thought the 1" belt might be the just the right tool for the lon
  3. I have really come to love the WEN scroll saw the last few days. I went slow, took my time and made my fair share of mistakes, but I tried to err on the side leaving too much wood to sand later. I have a 1" belt sander and discovered that clearance is enough for the slots, so I should be able to clean the slots up at a 90 degree angle easier than a file. 23 and 27 have my worst off cuts in the whole project so far, but shouldn't be a problem once I clean up the slots.
  4. I spent today finishing up the Phantom to how far I wanted to take it. I decided to stop without installing any of the rigging for the sails. I plan to start my next build (Vanguard Models Alert) next week, but also will be focusing a fair bit of time on the Winchelsea. As a bit of a debrief. I bought this kit on sale for $45 in 2004. Just getting back into the hobby after quite a few years away, the last entry in my previous build log was dated November 29, 2009 (Travel for work is halting progress). I figured this would be a pretty quick build to brush the rust off and I mos
  5. Just wanted to add a voice to the choir and say you're doing a fantastic job on this. You've made it look like such a fun build that I went and ordered her yesterday and added this as the next kit to build.
  6. Oh. no...disaster struck. Just kidding, the main gaff rigging looks like such a mess that I just had to take a photo. I found it's a lot easier to rig everything off the mast before attaching it. The rope for the peak halliard is so long and the single blocks aren't very forgiving that it's easy to rig this very loosely and leave everything hanging until hooking the gaff onto the halliards. I leave the peak lines off as they would just get in the way at this point and I haven't rigged the throat halliard yet. Rigged the throat halliard and hooking the gaff brings e
  7. Thanks for the great advice Fred. I started on my first bulkheads today and this advice is going to be extremely helpful. Scroll saw rookie realized why he was sometimes having trouble cutting outside the line today. Whenever the cutting line was to the left of the blade, the shadow of the blade from the light on the right side was making it hard to pick out the white space between the blade and line. Once I realized that and adjusted, it's been extremely smooth.
  8. Chuck, that's great advice and I keep coming back to it. So much of this hobby is dealing with the unexpected, we shouldn't invite it upon ourselves. Thanks Capt Morgan; I finally got a chance to use the saw today and for the price, it's a great little saw. I haven't done much yet other than to cut all the templates into individual bulkheads and pieces. It was enough to get comfortable with saw. Right before I started to clean up, I decided to start with parts 29 as it allows for a near unlimited number of redoes with scrap wood. I'm finding the hardes
  9. The boom is one of my favorite components to build and rig. Everyone has their own way of creating the jaws, but an easy way that works for me is to shape and taper the boom, draw the final shape of the jaws as a whole on the wood and then overlay the tapered end of the boom and pencil in the lines to cut to fit. My jaws below are extra wide because I thought the holes for the parrels were drilled through the jaws and not eyebolts in the ends. I corrected this later. Glued up and ready for final shaping. Ever have one of those moments when you are test fi
  10. I spent quite a bit of time just thinking of the best way to install the shrouds at this scale. The deadeyes are very fiddly to work with and I was especially afraid of spending a fair bit of time hunting for them under the table. After a bit of trial and error I found a way that turned out to work very well. First, I cut the lanyards and set them through the first hole on both matching deadeyes. Then, I put the deadeye to be set in an alligator clip on a helping hand and used my calipers to measure 3/8" from the bottom of the deadeye to the caprail as per the plans. By l
  11. Moving on to the stays, I always try to remember if its better to run a line and clean it up afterwards or to run everything and clean up all at once. I'm definitely leaning towards the one line at a time camp in the future. Ran into some issues here and managed to jam a needle threader trying to fish the fore stay through the bowsprit. Ended up dislodging the winch bitt and the bobstay knot was weak and separated. The replacement Syren rope is wonderful stuff, but I'm still working through the best way to prepare, tighten and glue it. Very different to work with than synthetics, but I'll
  12. For the mainmasts, creating the boom rest turned out to be one of the more interesting experiences trying to find the right material. My first attempt was to use some alaskan yellow cedar, but the grain is just too brittle at that scale and size. It separated into multiple pieces as soon as I put it on the mast as can be seen. I lost all my old wood scraps of closed grain wood and couldn't find any styrene sheets. To the recycling bin, where it turns out beer rings are about 1/32" thick and a nice bendy plastic that cuts easilly. The yellow cedar makes great chocks.
  13. I didn't think a trip to the liquor store on Friday would have produced so many valuable building materials for this stage of the build. 3 materials in fact. 2 here and the 3rd will come into play for the boom rest. I was struggling a bit coming up with a good material for the iron bands on the foremast. Manila envelope didn't stick well. Copper tape was too thin and fiddly. Brass was too thick. Opening a bottle of wine with a foil cutter gave me an idea. I cut the foil off around the neck and flattened it out. This stuff is fantastic and I was able to cut very thin strips
  14. I opted to build the 3 stretching screws out of wire and cover the turnings in CA glue, then paint black. Very happy with how they came out. They're just one of those neat little details. I also replaced all the blocks and rigging line from Syren. That transition period from building to masting/rigging is one of my favorite parts, when some tools get put away and a whole new set gets pulled out. I absolutely love mast-making and rigging. View from above. I got a little nervous when I saw this picture and thought the bowsprit was off angle, but it's not; I'm just
  15. Thanks Rusty/Chuck. I've been working my way all too fast through my Phantom build as I try to brush the rust off and am really eager to get going on the Winnie. One of the reasons I got into this hobby in the first place was that I'm an extremely impatient person by nature and it forces you to slow down, accept mistakes and/or go back to the drawing board. I'm entering the rigging phase, so I can start thinking about the Winnie. I've been acquiring everything I'll need for the foreseeable future, so am (hopefully) set for about the next year from a materials standpoint.
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