AnobiumPunctatum

These are very interesting news. I like the color of the yellow ceda. I think it will be looking really nice with my favorite pear wood and a nice choice for my HMS Triton. But in the moment I don't have any idea where to buy tis kind of timber in Europe.
I like the idea of building the model in 1/48. So it has the same scale as my other projects.

These are very interesting news. I like the color of the yellow ceda. I think it will be looking really nice with my favorite pear wood and a nice choice for my HMS Triton. But in the moment I don't have any idea where to buy tis kind of timber in Europe.
I like the idea of building the model in 1/48. So it has the same scale as my other projects.

Work continues with the start of larger 1/4" scale Winchelsea. The stem has been scratch assembled using 1/4" boxwood sheet. It has been given a very light sanding (no tapering) to clean it up a bit for the photo.

Mike

These are very interesting news. I like the color of the yellow ceda. I think it will be looking really nice with my favorite pear wood and a nice choice for my HMS Triton. But in the moment I don't have any idea where to buy tis kind of timber in Europe.
I like the idea of building the model in 1/48. So it has the same scale as my other projects.

These are very interesting news. I like the color of the yellow ceda. I think it will be looking really nice with my favorite pear wood and a nice choice for my HMS Triton. But in the moment I don't have any idea where to buy tis kind of timber in Europe.
I like the idea of building the model in 1/48. So it has the same scale as my other projects.

These are very interesting news. I like the color of the yellow ceda. I think it will be looking really nice with my favorite pear wood and a nice choice for my HMS Triton. But in the moment I don't have any idea where to buy tis kind of timber in Europe.
I like the idea of building the model in 1/48. So it has the same scale as my other projects.

These are very interesting news. I like the color of the yellow ceda. I think it will be looking really nice with my favorite pear wood and a nice choice for my HMS Triton. But in the moment I don't have any idea where to buy tis kind of timber in Europe.
I like the idea of building the model in 1/48. So it has the same scale as my other projects.

Hello,
and many thanks for your comments and likes.
 
A short update, just to show you that I'm still working. Now are only 8 strakes left. But it's a boring task, here are no port holes  
 

This are really good news.

Thank you for your appreciation Christian.
Thank you also to let me know the Marshal paintings. They are marvelous. 
Your idea to paint the inside walls red is good, but I will not do it. With the gangways and the brackets in place it would be too difficult to do it. I used HMS Victory as an example, on the Victory The inner bulwarks are in ocher, so I believe that I am not completely wrong in my color choice.
 
G.L.

Thank you for the likes and the comments.
 
Meanwhile back in the shipyard, the guns are all installed and have their breeching ropes.  I put in temporarily two markers for the ends of the quarter and fore decks to check for tolerances and to think things through more on the rigging of the mainmast.  So far, so good.  There should be about 12 or 16 eyebolts with blocks for rigging behind the mainmast but that's not going to happen so I'll have to move those lines up to the quarterdeck.   Next up is making and installing the cannon traversing tackle which will be fun but also a pain as the parts are so tiny.   I'm using 5/16 inch Chuck Blocks for these.  I thought about using the 1/8" blocks but they're too tiny for these guns.  Oh well.. maybe for the 4 pounders topside and also for some of the rigging.
 
Here's the photos...
 

The lower part of the well and lower deck beams have been temporarily installed.  The well is still missing the finishing touches like the hinges on the doors.  There are pins extending from the corners of the well into the bottom of the lower beams.  Once completed, the mast step will be almost invisible (but we will all know it is there).
 

 

 

 

Really wonderful work, Ed. I had a lot to read this week and was really surprised about the many details you show in your model.
I don't think that is possible (for me) to build all this details. Is there a simplified version for the 1/96 model planned? Than a not so talented modeller could use this version.

Thank you very much for your comments and like.

After assembling the build board, I began assembling the keel pieces.  In the photo below you see the three elements..The rising wood on top,  the two keel pieces glued together in the center and the false keel below that.  I darkened the seam between the two keel parts so they would really stand out using a soft pencil.  I had my two screws and bolts ready as well.

I used the screws to help align the layers and glue them together.  Note how I left all the laser char in place until after all the keel parts were glued together.  I also darkened the seam between the keel and false keel.
 

Then the rising wood was added but first I needed to glue the two nuts into the laser cut holes provided for them.  I simply placed a nut on the table and positioned the rising wood over the top of it.  Then I pressed down firmly to push the wood over the nut.  This placed the nut perfectly.  I added a drop of glue around the nuts perimeter to secure it flush with the bottom of the rising wood.  I was careful not to get any glue on the threads of the nut.
Then I glued it to the top of the keel.  After applying some titebond I actually screwed it into position to be aligned.  The middle keel was intentionally left a bit wider because now I will remove the laser char.  There is more char on the thicker keel pieces so I left that thicker so it wouldnt be over sanded in the process.  It cleaned up pretty good.  I was careful not to remove too much.  I applied some wipe on poly afterwards.

All cleaned up and test fit with the screws on the work base which you might notice I made a bit wider in this final version...The bottom of the base uses another piece of laser cut wood to make sure the screws dont stick out to far on top of the rising wood.  There are several supplied to use as spacers if need be.  Then I removed the keel to start on the rabbet.


To make the rabbet I used a laser cut scraper tool designed especially for the job.  See below as it is pretty self explanatory.  Brass strip filed to a point and used to make the rabbet.

Several light passes at first working from the center outward.  Then I cleaned up the rabbet with some sand paper and files.

To finish off the keel, I used some 20 pound black fishing line for the bolts.  I realize these would have been copper but I really dont like that look.  But you guys can substitute if you prefer.   I like them blackened as shown instead.  Next up I will detail how to build the frames.
 

The munions between the stern lights are covered with carved pilasters.  Some of the Swan Class ships had simple reed decorations but not this one.  I will need to make a total of 10 of them.  I considered making a master from clay and casting them but that would require painting them.  I will try carving first.  Please remember that the full size of the carved garland is 10 mm.  Therefore I have decided to take an impressionist approach to their carving.  If they are all similar it will give a good impression of garlands.
 

 

 
 
As yet another break from carving I make the quarter rail.  Because of its length I made a simple joint at the support piece above the gun port and a scarfed joint at the center swivel gun mount.  It is bolted to the swivel gun mount, leaving an airspace between the rail and gun mount.  The scroll was carved using the plan as a template.  The distance between the planksheer and the quarter rail diminishes as one goes aft.  Back to the carving!
 

 

 

Really wonderful work, Ed. I had a lot to read this week and was really surprised about the many details you show in your model.
I don't think that is possible (for me) to build all this details. Is there a simplified version for the 1/96 model planned? Than a not so talented modeller could use this version.

Hello, Christian.  Probably the easiest way to simplify the model is to eliminate some of the rigging that is often left off models - items like reef tackle. bowlines, and others.  I will think about how to suggest fewer lines.  Other simpler methods may be used - for example, banding may be made with paper instead of the soldered copper.  Shackles may be eliminated.  Other simplifications may suggest themselves.  I will give this issue some though to follow through on the simpler model idea that led to the 1:96 POB version being included.  I will say that most of the rigging work is manually done - a lot of knotting and seizing.  Once learned these tasks become more repetitive than difficult.  Hope this helps.
 
Ed

Really wonderful work, Ed. I had a lot to read this week and was really surprised about the many details you show in your model.
I don't think that is possible (for me) to build all this details. Is there a simplified version for the 1/96 model planned? Than a not so talented modeller could use this version.

Thank you very much.

Dear friends thank you very much.

Grazie mille Amalio.

I am in a bit of a quandary.  The plans show a taffarel fife rail, an extra rail above the taffarel rail.  However, the contemporary model in the RMG does not have this rail.  The photo is from the RMG website.  Suggestions, anyone?  If I build the taffarel fife rail, is the area above the carvings solid or open, showing the counter timbers?
 

 

It has been another long time since posting but I have two excuses.  First, I went on an extended vacation and started Echo because of ease of transport.  Second...  The second reason is a combination of funny and terrifying.  I had Atalanta sitting on the floor in preparation for taking some photos.  I then tripped on willow-the-wisp and fell into the model inflicting a significant amount of damage to Atalanta.  This included resetting every cannon, installing a new quarter deck rail, new side moldings and several other minor repairs.  Three weeks later I am able to post the photos that I hoped to take on that fateful day.
 
The tafarel carvings have been installed and the assembly has been glued and pinned to the stern timbers.  The rail was fabricated from five pieces of wood.  The relationship between the caprail and the quarter deck rail was difficult to see on the plans.  I hope I built it correctly because I am not doing it again!
 

 

 
 
 
 

Wow, the painting of the friese is looking great.
One suggestion: if you choose this kind of presentation, it should be good to paint the inner side wall red. this can be seen in contemporary models and also in the Marshall paintings. If it's not possible to change this detail it is also fine