AnobiumPunctatum

Hiya Guys.
 
Further update, I have continued to cut out templates now that i have the plans resized and making slow progress Haha. fingers cramp cutting them out with scissors im using a craft knife and cutting board on the larger templates.
 
I also had to replace the table saw as the motor shorted out , im lucky this happened under warranty and i choose to upgrade it at the same time for a little more cost, photos included with post.
 
Also made plenty of sawdust cutting timber stock and Sanding it to size.
 
More updates as and when i am able its been handsome here in London for the last 3 weeks and spent all my time in the Workshop. 

Hello Guys a further update for you all.
 
Its been a poor winter here in London and the weather has finally improved, its been nice and warm and sunny for the last few days.
I have made several changes to how i am doing things due to mobility and health. the workshop has been adapted so i can gain access with my wheelchair.
The build at 1:48 has also been altered, i found at that size many of the parts were difficult for me to craft or handle. There for i purchased a new printer capable of printing A0 sizes and below.
I printed all the plans out at 142% of the pdf files, this = almost  twice the size.
This is far better for me to be able to handle the parts.
Also over the winter i managed to get in contact of a small family kitchen unit builders at my local business park, I am welcome to forage in their offcuts section for suitable timber, I will be using mainly Beech for the frames, Mahogany for the Keel parts and deadwoods, Lime for planking and Maple for the Deck supports.
The photos may not be in order and sorry for quality hands no longer steady, but ive given each a title.
 
More to follow after progress.
Regards to all Alan

hi all
time for an update. inboard has now been planked and treenailed......cleats have been made and fitted....took three attempts to get those little b*******s looking right.
deck fittings have been placed purely for the photos.
work has started on the quarter deck
next up will be the iron work....eyebolts,gunport hinges etc  etc. stocked up recently on copper tube and sheet ready for the marathon blacksmith session to come
 
still plenty of work to to but were getting closer to the finish line!!!!
 
photos inc as per usual
 
cheers for now......mick

Hello,
 
after I had to do some other things then shipbuilding, here now an update. I painted the under water ship.
 
Before I go on and build the upper part of the outside ship ready, I must build in the gun deck and made the inner walls smooth. But then the slots for the over head stand will get lost. So I painted it now.
 
In the first picture I made the water line horizontal.
 

 

 

 

Good morning.

Thank you very much for your comments and likes.

Just a quick update on progress so far , i don,t need to go into to much detail as others have covered pretty much everthing thankfully . Decided to continue with the frames i have and with a lot of sanding they will do the job , lesson learned is spend time getting the frames as well constructed as possible . have planked one sid up to the wales with cherry , i,m happy although i did miss a few flaws in the wood which only show after varnish ,perhaps in future i should number them as i cut them of the sheet to be sure to be sure . Be cause i was to lazy to use a proper build board there is a difference of about 2mm in the distance from side to side , can be easy remied now i know it,s there . Work on the lower deck continues , i hope to complete it of ship and then build it in which means i can make the last beam struts to suit if there is any variation . I find most problems can be overcome if found in time ,,, fortunately ..I may not "joint " the fine struts under the side of the deck which will be planked ,i can learn enough of one side to maybe do a better job on the gun deck ..

Thank you folks for your kind comments and thanks everyone for the likes.
 
After much wailing and gnashing of teeth I have finally completed the quarter badge.  The lower finishing is comprised of five separate pieces: three carved pieces and two moldings.  The patterns were taken from the plan.  The round part at the bottom appears to be a carnation-type flower on the plan.  I hope you don't have to use your imagination too much!  The console brackets are the carved decorations on either side of the badge.  Having practiced with the NRG/Passaro carving blanks made this go a lot easier than I had anticipated.
 

 

 

Hello, I put the model on a temporary basis to take it to a show with friends.

Welcome to the Triton shipyard. It looks that you are on a really good way.

Welcome to the Triton shipyard. It looks that you are on a really good way.

Your ears must have been burning Druxey.....When permanently gluing the frames to the keel I thought the same thing and all of the top supports for each frame have already been adjusted for the kit.  When folks buy the kit they will have the etched line as reference although technically speaking, once frame one is glued into position properly all the others follow suit after inserting the frame registration pieces in the notches.  But it couldnt hurt to have them on all of the frame tops.
 
I will instruct everyone to glue frame one in position before trying to tweak and create the port sills.  Frame one can be used as an "anchor" of sorts when glued properly in position to ensure that all of the other frames are aligned while testing and tweaking the port sill pieces.  At least it was very helpful for me doing it that way.
 
Once all of the port sills are made and set aside the remaining six frames are glued in position permanently and the registration strips are added before the glue dries.  That is going to be the actual sequence of events.
 
Chuck

Not a lot that you can see but plenty of stuff to move the project forward.
 
I did however finish cutting/tweaking the notches for the port sills.  This is tricky work and is probably the hardest part of the project.  But if you go slow it will be fine.  The laser etched notches for the sills are not as wide as they need to be.  This was done on purpose because it will be inevitable that you will be tweaking these so the port framing is correct.  In fact, to make this easier I used a template to mark the top and bottom of each sill for the ports and sweeps first so I knew where to start my tweaking.  The process involves constant removal of the associated frames to make small tweaks and then installation and testing.  When the port side was done, they pieces were labelled and then set aside.  I repeated this process again on the other side.
 


 
Then the frames were glued into position permanently and the two small frame spacers reinserted on top to register them again before the glue dried.  Once the frames were set, I then glued the sills in permanently and faired the exterior of the first seven frames.  It was helpful to make a support which can be seen under the frames.  This protected the whole assembly while fairing the outboard of the frames.
 

 
Then just for a test (I wont recommend this for other building the kit).  I removed the inboard "Ear" tabs on the port side which held the frames together for the gunport.  But before doing so I made sure the sills were well glued in position and not moving.  I cut the tabs free and test faired the inboard frames on the port side.   But it will be best to wait until after the outside planking and battens are added later to do this.  This was just a test for me as I didnt want to move forward until I knew the concept worked......which it did.
 

 
Chuck

Welcome to the Triton shipyard. It looks that you are on a really good way.

I i had taken a bit more care with makin the frames it would have made things easier later on ,but i still had it in my head that i would start from scatch again . All i can say at this atage is i have learned quite a bit in a short time and know i will need to learn a lot more before i finish . While waiting for planking to dry i started the bottom deck and as the pic shows it will need some parts replaced to square it . I hope to be able to work with the frames as they are ,with a lot of sanding and a few alterations . The deck frames and keel are the only pear wood i have used and must say it,s a pleasure to work with besides the oak ,plus the tight grain is a lot more realistic looking . The planking and thick stuff are from old stock rather than waste better woods 

Really nice Progress, Chuck.
I like the size of your Version 2, much more possibilitie to play with details.

Really nice Progress, Chuck.
I like the size of your Version 2, much more possibilitie to play with details.

Really nice Progress, Chuck.
I like the size of your Version 2, much more possibilitie to play with details.

Really nice Progress, Chuck.
I like the size of your Version 2, much more possibilitie to play with details.

Thanks...I still have to edit it.  Its on the list of things to do.
 
Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads and stern frames.  All looks good to go for the next step.
 
And just this one time only...I dragged out the old dusty and broken 3/16" scale version of the Winnie for a size comparison.  They are lined up at the stern so you can see the difference.  What a mess the old model is....full of dust and filthy as well as busted up a bit.
 



 
 

The small side of the stool bed must have a rounded notch. I make it with a round file

The bed lays with a nick on the metal truck. The nick is sawn out with the jigsaw.

The parts of the gun carriage

The gun carriages are assembled with the help of the middle piece of the jig.

Gluing the transom.

Gluing the stool bed

To make the cap squares I make simple jig. I saw a piece of hard wood in two, clamp the two halves together and drill a hole in the middle.
Foto 360
Giving form to the cap squares is now simply done with the help of a drill and a hammer.

Two finished gun carriages after being stained.

Hello,
 
today I finished the lower counter. 
 

 

 
The only thing left here, is to cut the mortise for the gun port lid into the rail. 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for your appreciation, Ward.
It is the moment to make the most important equipment of a 18th century warship: the artillery.
I want to cast the gun barrels in tin. To make the casting mold, I turn a model of a gun barrel in wood. I start with drilling the hole for the trunnions next to the center line of a piece of olive wood.

Then I turn the barrel in accordance with the plan.

I leave a funnel-shaped appendix at the gun mouth. It will form the pouring opening in the casting mold.

The mold will be made in a small wooden box in which fit the gun model. The purpose of the two small planks with the conical wooden pins next to the box will become clear soon. The two nails in the trunnions keep my gun model in the middle of the box and will also make two air tunnels in the mold through which the air can escape when pouring the melted tin in the mold.

The mold will be made with a heat resistant silicone. It consists of a red colored raisin which has to be mixed with 2.5% hardener.

My box has a volume of about 22 cl. I start with making 10 cl of silicone and pour it in the box. I press the gun model in the silicone until it sits approx. halfway in the fluid.

 I lay also the two planks with wooden pins on the box in such a way that the tops of the pins are sitting in the silicone.

A day later the silicone is hard (or soft like rubber) and the pins can be removed. They form four conical holes in the top of the bottom half of the mold. All silicone spills on the wooden gun model are removed. I spray some release agent on it.

Now I mix again 10 cl silicone and fill the box.

A day later the mold can be dismantled and the two halves can be taken token apart. In the bottom half of the mold are the four pits of the wooden pins and in the upper half four protrusions which perfectly fit in them. They make it possible to join the mold perfectly.

I use tin for plumbers to make the guns. It is sold as rods of about 30 cm long, pieces can be sawn of with a metal saw. My melting furnace is a simple spirit fire and a small sauce pan.

The melted tin is poured in the mold.

Some ten minutes later the mold can be opened. Be careful because although the tin has solidified, it is still very hot.

The pouting funnel is sawn of and I drill out the mouth of the gun.

All the mold seams are filed and the barrels are blackened.

Let's just say that the redo is taking just as long as the first attempt.  I have not cleaned it up yet but I think everyone will agree that it looks better (I hope).  Next on the agenda is making the carvings to be applied to the munions.  These will be similar to the ones between the stern windows.
 

 

 

Good morning.