AnobiumPunctatum

Really wonderful work, Ed. I had a lot to read this week and was really surprised about the many details you show in your model.
I don't think that is possible (for me) to build all this details. Is there a simplified version for the 1/96 model planned? Than a not so talented modeller could use this version.

Thank you very much for your comments and like.

After assembling the build board, I began assembling the keel pieces.  In the photo below you see the three elements..The rising wood on top,  the two keel pieces glued together in the center and the false keel below that.  I darkened the seam between the two keel parts so they would really stand out using a soft pencil.  I had my two screws and bolts ready as well.

I used the screws to help align the layers and glue them together.  Note how I left all the laser char in place until after all the keel parts were glued together.  I also darkened the seam between the keel and false keel.
 

Then the rising wood was added but first I needed to glue the two nuts into the laser cut holes provided for them.  I simply placed a nut on the table and positioned the rising wood over the top of it.  Then I pressed down firmly to push the wood over the nut.  This placed the nut perfectly.  I added a drop of glue around the nuts perimeter to secure it flush with the bottom of the rising wood.  I was careful not to get any glue on the threads of the nut.
Then I glued it to the top of the keel.  After applying some titebond I actually screwed it into position to be aligned.  The middle keel was intentionally left a bit wider because now I will remove the laser char.  There is more char on the thicker keel pieces so I left that thicker so it wouldnt be over sanded in the process.  It cleaned up pretty good.  I was careful not to remove too much.  I applied some wipe on poly afterwards.

All cleaned up and test fit with the screws on the work base which you might notice I made a bit wider in this final version...The bottom of the base uses another piece of laser cut wood to make sure the screws dont stick out to far on top of the rising wood.  There are several supplied to use as spacers if need be.  Then I removed the keel to start on the rabbet.


To make the rabbet I used a laser cut scraper tool designed especially for the job.  See below as it is pretty self explanatory.  Brass strip filed to a point and used to make the rabbet.

Several light passes at first working from the center outward.  Then I cleaned up the rabbet with some sand paper and files.

To finish off the keel, I used some 20 pound black fishing line for the bolts.  I realize these would have been copper but I really dont like that look.  But you guys can substitute if you prefer.   I like them blackened as shown instead.  Next up I will detail how to build the frames.
 

The munions between the stern lights are covered with carved pilasters.  Some of the Swan Class ships had simple reed decorations but not this one.  I will need to make a total of 10 of them.  I considered making a master from clay and casting them but that would require painting them.  I will try carving first.  Please remember that the full size of the carved garland is 10 mm.  Therefore I have decided to take an impressionist approach to their carving.  If they are all similar it will give a good impression of garlands.
 

 

 
 
As yet another break from carving I make the quarter rail.  Because of its length I made a simple joint at the support piece above the gun port and a scarfed joint at the center swivel gun mount.  It is bolted to the swivel gun mount, leaving an airspace between the rail and gun mount.  The scroll was carved using the plan as a template.  The distance between the planksheer and the quarter rail diminishes as one goes aft.  Back to the carving!
 

 

 

Really wonderful work, Ed. I had a lot to read this week and was really surprised about the many details you show in your model.
I don't think that is possible (for me) to build all this details. Is there a simplified version for the 1/96 model planned? Than a not so talented modeller could use this version.

Hello, Christian.  Probably the easiest way to simplify the model is to eliminate some of the rigging that is often left off models - items like reef tackle. bowlines, and others.  I will think about how to suggest fewer lines.  Other simpler methods may be used - for example, banding may be made with paper instead of the soldered copper.  Shackles may be eliminated.  Other simplifications may suggest themselves.  I will give this issue some though to follow through on the simpler model idea that led to the 1:96 POB version being included.  I will say that most of the rigging work is manually done - a lot of knotting and seizing.  Once learned these tasks become more repetitive than difficult.  Hope this helps.
 
Ed

Really wonderful work, Ed. I had a lot to read this week and was really surprised about the many details you show in your model.
I don't think that is possible (for me) to build all this details. Is there a simplified version for the 1/96 model planned? Than a not so talented modeller could use this version.

Thank you very much.

Dear friends thank you very much.

Grazie mille Amalio.

I am in a bit of a quandary.  The plans show a taffarel fife rail, an extra rail above the taffarel rail.  However, the contemporary model in the RMG does not have this rail.  The photo is from the RMG website.  Suggestions, anyone?  If I build the taffarel fife rail, is the area above the carvings solid or open, showing the counter timbers?
 

 

It has been another long time since posting but I have two excuses.  First, I went on an extended vacation and started Echo because of ease of transport.  Second...  The second reason is a combination of funny and terrifying.  I had Atalanta sitting on the floor in preparation for taking some photos.  I then tripped on willow-the-wisp and fell into the model inflicting a significant amount of damage to Atalanta.  This included resetting every cannon, installing a new quarter deck rail, new side moldings and several other minor repairs.  Three weeks later I am able to post the photos that I hoped to take on that fateful day.
 
The tafarel carvings have been installed and the assembly has been glued and pinned to the stern timbers.  The rail was fabricated from five pieces of wood.  The relationship between the caprail and the quarter deck rail was difficult to see on the plans.  I hope I built it correctly because I am not doing it again!
 

 

 
 
 
 

Wow, the painting of the friese is looking great.
One suggestion: if you choose this kind of presentation, it should be good to paint the inner side wall red. this can be seen in contemporary models and also in the Marshall paintings. If it's not possible to change this detail it is also fine

Wow, the painting of the friese is looking great.
One suggestion: if you choose this kind of presentation, it should be good to paint the inner side wall red. this can be seen in contemporary models and also in the Marshall paintings. If it's not possible to change this detail it is also fine

Wow, the painting of the friese is looking great.
One suggestion: if you choose this kind of presentation, it should be good to paint the inner side wall red. this can be seen in contemporary models and also in the Marshall paintings. If it's not possible to change this detail it is also fine

Bonjour, enfin quelques photos.
 
Isalbert

Shadow and white spots added

Now comes the most difficult part, the decorations. I am not an experienced painter. Painting the molding on a flat paper is not so difficult, but reproducing it on the model which has obstacles as fenders and ladder steps is a whole other story. With blood, sweat and tears and of course with yellow paint I can produce something that looks a bit like ornamental garlands. It still has to be finished with white light spots and darker yellow shadows.
On the second picture you can see that the gaps between the planks were not yet filled when I was painting the moldings.

I hope you have another seat in the first row. Really nice start and I like tollow your build.

I hope you have another seat in the first row. Really nice start and I like tollow your build.

Away for a few days, to the annual Charlie Russell art auction in Great Falls, Montana. Some of the best Western traditional art in the US. I can't afford to buy any, just look and admire...
 
I am continuing with the wales. I fitted the foremost, lower two strakes before bending, using artist's transfer paper squeezed between the two pieces. This notes high points which are then lightly filed down, and the two are tested again. With patience, one can sneak up on a very tight joint. The second photo shows dry clamping for fit after the bending, and a closeup in the third photo. Interestingly, the plank was carefully spiled, but it still needed a fair amount of adjustment using the artist's transfer paper. I think it has to do with the constantly changing angle of the upper surface, since most of the high points were on the inner edge. Glue tomorrow!
 
Mark
 

Congratulation for finishing this beatyful section model

Congratulation for finishing this beatyful section model

Congratulation for finishing this beatyful section model

Today I finished The base and mounted my cross section. This was a real fun build, and I learned so much from building it. Thanks to the members that followed along with my build and gave me words of wisdom , encouragement and kindness.
 
Here are the photos of the finished Project.
 
Thanks again for following along 

Derek C