AnobiumPunctatum

-When preparing dry assemblies, if I need it to hold parts together, brass wire is used.
 
-I wanted a good file, but it was too large so I cut it.
 
-Lemineur and Boudriot drawings cannot be mix together because there are many variations in the drawings.  
 
 

I'm onto the second last row of planks for the larboard side. I can't put in the top plank because the screws holding the ship to the plug are in the way.

 

 
So once I've completed this run of planks I'll start planking the starboard side. I've learnt a fair bit while doing this and I hope the second side will be better.
 

 
Planking the tail. Because of the extreme curve I've had to put in a couple of drop planks.
 

 

 


 

 
 
I've sanded the planks down so they look more like the carvel construction they're supposed to be. Still got a way to go, and it looks like I may need to do some filling, and/or I might have to wait till I take the ship off the plug before I complete the smoothing off.
 

 

 

 
Still, fairly happy with the way it's turning out. It's good to finally have something that actually looks like a ship! And I can't get over what an elegant shape she is.
 
Steven
 
 

Go the other direction! I have a couple of his 1/300 frigates, very nice little kits.
 
1/300 Langton HMS Victory
 


 
 

Well Christmas has came went I got very little accomplished! In February my wife told me its time I retired then proceeded to hand me a new honey-do list, looks like I will be working on it until July or august....  well so much for retirement guys!
 
P.S. she made me sell my truck and bought me a new car, I put in a good word for a Ford Edge and she agreed and promptly paid for it!

Congrats for a beautyful cutter model, Chuck. I hope my Alert will if I have finished her as half as good.

The last part of the backbone is the Stern, consisting of the Inner Post and the Stern Post. I build a small jig to adapt the Stem to the Deadwood:

 
For fixing the Stern on the Deadwood I use small brass pins. At the keel I used a simplified tenon joint:

 
Next I milled the scores for the transoms and the rudder hinges:

 
The last picture shows the nearly finished port side of the arrangement. I lost a little the sharp edge of the rabbet, but don't think that I can do it better. So I will live with it. After finishing the starbordside and glueing the complete arrangement together, I will final sand the everything.

 
The two parts of the stern are real tricky and so I am very happy if I can fnish this part. Greg has spllitted his stern post in two part. If I have to do this part another time, I think I will follow this way. The rabbet at the transoms is than a littlebit simplified, but I think his way makes life much simpler.
 

Welcome on bord, Antony
 
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms

I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.





The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.

In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
 

Thanks Dirk.
 
Rigged the anchors today.
 

 
Also made the entry way stanchions.  These were made just like the belaying pins.  They were turned in my dremmel.  I started with a 1/16" strip.  I drilled the hole forst while it was square and then turned the four stanchions.   They were painted black and then made to look like metal.   I wont add the rope from them because they always lay funny.  They are not heavy enough to lay correctly and leaving them like this is much neater.  They werent glued in yet when I took the photo below.  
 

 
And that about does it folks.   After 3 years or so I have completed the Cheerful.  I enjoyed myself a great deal and learned so much with this project.   Here are some preliminary images of the completed model.   Hopefully I will find time to make the base and case soon.  But now its onto the barge.....
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi.
I add a little progress from my model.
 
I glued the first top plank to hold together all frames. And cuts off all frames in the right-size.

 
And only then start sanding  inside of hull.
 

 
 
Step by step I stars planking. 
First planks I made a slightly curved. To keep straight part in bottom of inside hull. As well pre drill holes in keelson for hold pillar.
 

 
Next I made a couple of clams for planking. To make future work easier.
 

It works pretty well.
 

Cut out limber board in right shape. And cut it by small parts.
Then folded again all together and drill holes between.
 

By individual pieces I glued it In place. I leave only place for pump room.

It's all for the moment.
I hope so will have more free time to keep going.:)
 
Ainars

Continuation.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel
 

Continuation.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

While working on the topsail yard, I noticed that I needed a few more belaying pins. These were made from 1/16" square boxwood strips and the Dremel rotary tool. Using a 1/16" collet, the bottom end of the pin was reduced to .032" (1 1/2" scale). After cutting the handle of the pin to the correct length, the bottom end was inserted into a 1/32" collet and the pin was reduced to .045 (2 5/32" scale) From here the handle was easily shaped, and the bottom was trimmed off. Final length = 18" scale. 

 

 

 
The topsail yard is completed and all lines are belayed. I still need to trim the lines and add the remaining rope coils.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Congrats for a really beautyful model. And thank you very much for your build log. I -and I am sure a lot of other MSW users also- got a lot of information which is very helpful for my own projects.
 
I hope that your will start another project in the near future.

The ladder is assembled. Just cut the sides to size and glued the steps to it. They were marked to get the spacing even. I have never been able to make good ladders and this proves it.
Well when it's in the guts of the ship it will not be so visible. The next one will be better.
 

 
And installed.
 

That's it for today.   Thanks for watching.
 
Mark

Next the liners for the hole in the deck the anchor chain passes through. I started with a hard wood dowel and drilled a 1/4" hole through it. Then it was cut into four pieces and each piece finished with an exacto and files.
 

She who must be obeyed was not at home so I had to use my phone for these two pictures. These are about as good as it will do close up.

A little flat black paint and two boards and the first two they are installed.

It's been awhile since my last update, life keeps getting in the way.
 
Thanks for watching
 
Mark
 

Thé End. .....I am more happy 

Very nice gun cruiser Tozbekler,
so many fine details, it looks great...
Congrats to the completion, a beautiful build...
 
Nils

Really wonderful work, Mike

Really wonderful work, Mike

Progress has been slow lately with the yards, mainly due to my putting off doing them. However, once I got started things went smoother than I originally thought and it was good to have Chuck's build log and plan detail as a reference. The lower yard rigging is done with the exception of trimming a few rope ends and adding coils. I'm going to tidy up the stirrups and horses after the topsail yard rigging is completed. My plan is to do that with the aide of some acrylic matte clear finish.
 

 
 






Mike

Well, its been an interesting week. The rope coils that were needed are now completed. I can see that this is an area that could use some further refinement and I will try to do that as the rigging continues. I tried to follow chuck's method of doing them, but came up a little short, I think. Also, I would like more rope available for re-tensioning should the need arise. In the end I came up with a different way that gives me a little more flexibility. Unfortunately, none of it can be used on the completed coils. Some of the photos are macro shots so the detail can be brutal. I referenced David Antscherls TFFM vol.4 pg 103 for making the rope coils.
 
The rope is wrapped around brass tubing of appropriate diameter. The pin makes space to pass the rope around the coil. A half hitch and a drop of glue secures things.

The original coils were done like this. The loop that goes over the belaying pin is one of the coil loops pulled up short and wrapped around the upper coil.

With the new technique the loose ends are cut off flush to the knot.

The way I did the completed rope coils can be seen on the left. The end of the rigging line was belayed, cut short and glued under the pin rail. The coil was then placed over the belaying pin. To demonstrate what I came up with afterwards I'll be using a free pin rail position on the right. Honestly though, I can't help but think that this has already been done. The rigging line is first belayed around the pin. Although not fully seen here, the blue painters tape was wedged behind the pin and pushed down to hold the rope while belaying. The free end is left long.

The rope coil was placed over the belaying pin with the knot behind the pin. It was then stretched with a 1/8" drill and given a coat of Badger "Clear Matte" acrylic.

This is the end result after removing the drill, hitching the loose end to the belaying pin and cutting the fall. Lots of rope to hold onto should the need to re-tension arise.

 
Mike
 
 
 
 
 
 

Tom, Michael and Albert, Thank you!
 
Work continues with the foresail halliard. There is a 24 gauge eyebolt located on the cap rail and just aft of the stem. Not that it's hard to do, but I can see where one might want to place it early on before the rigging is started. The block located behind the crosstree wasn't difficult to place, but care has to be taken not to bang into the other rigging already there. Chuck noted that it has to be placed so the rope falls behind the lower yard to a cleat on the lower mast.
 
Time to tighten things up and get to those rope coils I have been avoiding. . .

Mike

Today, I started the running rigging with the jib halliard and related components. The traveler ring, was made by Chuck and is available on his website. I decided that stabilizing the traveler ring was key to making it all go smoothly. The photos below show the steps taken to achieve this. Note that the jib halliard #2 is temporarily wrapped around one of the bowsprit bitts instead of being fully rigged through the block at the mast head. That will come later after the jib inhaul is completed. The jib outhaul #1 is routed correctly.


With the traveler ring stabilized I made the jib inhaul.
Lastly the inhaul was seized to the traveler ring and the jib halliard was routed correctly.



Hope this all makes sense. .
 
Mike