AnobiumPunctatum

Larry,
 
the problem with your deadwood is, that you did not made the core part thin enough. After glueing the outer layers on it, it should not be visible. If you put a plank on the stern post and after deadwood, there are some space on your model which should not be there. Don't worry I need several trys until I got these parts right.
I hope you can see on the picture what I mean.
 

Thank you for your nice comments.
I introduce myself: I am an engineer of Arts and Crafts and I have always done a little modeling during my life parallel to my job. I am married, I have three children and six grandchildren. I'm 76 years old.
In retirement since 1998 I accidentally fell on the drawing of the stern of the Royal Sun, drawing by Jean Berain.
Immediately I was seduced and I decided to build this ship in Arsenal.
I started my research in 2008 by browsing the historical backgrounds in search of exact documents on the Royal Sun. My object was to compile all these documents in order to have enough to draw up the plans of this ship as well as possible.
This was done in 2009. It was a first approach that was to guide the construction while allowing the retouching as and when.
The axial framework with more than 90 frames and the stern and stern frame will be presented at an exhibition in January 2010.
Photos of this period:

I present here the latest photos of my Royal Sun. It is not finished and if it interests you I would put you following as work progresses.
Excuse me but not speaking English I use the Google translator

Small progression on the scenery of the foils of foal.
There is still a lot of work
Jean Berain did not hesitate to load the beast
To be continued
friendships
Michel

Wonderful progress, Ben. It's looking really good.

Almost there....
 
This photo shows the contents of the kit.   I am just finalizing a few more things.  The kit is made from all cherry with some additional boxwood accents.  You get the resin casting set minus the seven items you will be carving.  But the seven items will be available later as an option for those that dont want to carve them.  I hope everyone at least tries.  You get two sheets of plans and printed friezes for the panels and sweeps.   The pedestals and sweep racks are also included.   There will be no printed instructions in the box to keep costs down but the full set will be available as a download on my site as usual.   There are 25 laser cut sheets of cherry and boxwood that range in size and thickness.  The planks are pre-spiled and laser cut for you. The real fragile stuff is carefully packaged in bags rather than being left in the laser cut sheets like the etched panels that are inboard.  They are boxwood and very fragile.
 
This kit contains everything you need to build it just like I have straight out of the box including pre-printed flags on tissue paper.  It is a fully framed model with floors and toptimbers just like the contemporary models and will retail for $235.  It will be available real soon and just in time for Christmas.
Let me know if you have any questions.
 


Chuck

Thanks
No its just paper.  You cut them out carefully with a #11 blade and glue them on.  Really simple.  They are dolphins/sea creatures based on the typical decorations shown on sweeps of that time period.  I basically tried to repeat what Druxey painted on his sweeps for the Hospital Barge.  His sweeps as decorated inspired me to do the same.  I think it adds a nice touch.  Here is one of his painted sweeps.  Although he painted all of his directly on each sweep.  I cheated and made one and then scanned it, printed it .....cut them out and glued them on.
 

 
 
 
 

Hi,
 
So work on Pegasus we be starting again now I have humidity back to normal control, and summer projects put back to bed.
Old counter framing was broken on last house move so it has to be remade.
First order of business was to make a jig to attach to my gantry for the correct alignment and position of new side counter timbers, made out of some poplar and sized so top corners are the correct height from the keel to toptimber level, and width to correspond for correct gap 12'3" ( 3 1/16" full size ).
New side counter timbers were shaped out of 15" thick stock as per TFFM, glued into correct position on wing transom, and pinned through with 20ga copper wire / 5 min epoxy for strength.
Distance between side counter timbers at the upper counter knuckle was checked as well, pretty confident these are in the correct place.
Now to start on the filling timbers and QB light port.
 
ben
 

It's allways a pleasure, if I get an mail that you have prepared a new update of your fantastic build. I love the elegant clipper ships and hope that I will have in the future the possibility to build a model of one - perhaps Young America

It's allways a pleasure, if I get an mail that you have prepared a new update of your fantastic build. I love the elegant clipper ships and hope that I will have in the future the possibility to build a model of one - perhaps Young America

It's allways a pleasure, if I get an mail that you have prepared a new update of your fantastic build. I love the elegant clipper ships and hope that I will have in the future the possibility to build a model of one - perhaps Young America

Really fantastic buildlog. Thanks for sharing

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 239 – Revisions - Spencer and Headsail Rigging
 
The running rigging described in the last two parts has been revised.  In the case of the spencer gaff the fall of the vang was obstructed by the outer boats on the skid beams.  To correct this, I added lead blocks to the forward topmast backstay and led the fall down to its pin through a fairlead on that stay.  The first picture shows the original configuration on the port side and the revision on the starboard side.
 

 
The revised rig retains the same eyebolt for the standing leg of the vang, which then passes through the block on the shortened pendant, then through the lead block and a fairlead, both on the forward topmast stay.  The fall then belays on the same pin as before.  The next picture shows the starboard lead block and fairlead.
 

 
The old rope coils and belaying were removed as shown in the next picture.
 

 
A cotton swab soaked in isopropanol was laid on the rope for a few minutes to soften the wood glue. The rope was then easily removed.
 
The other revision involved the halyards on the three headsails.  I initially considered three typical configurations for these – no blocks, a single block whip from the deck, and a single block at the head of the sail.  I installed the first, simplest method as described in Part 238.  Shortly after installing these, I thought more about this and was concerned about no mechanical advantage on these rather large sails.  In checking (belatedly) the 1870's photo of the ship in New York, the blocks at the lower ends of the stays are clearly visible.  So, that configuration has now been installed on all three stays.  The foot of the topmast stay is shown in the next picture after revision.

This may be compared with the first photo in Part 238.  The revised lower rigging of the outer jib halyard is shown in the next picture.
 

To avoid re-rigging the downhaulers, the lower blocks were strapped to the shackle in place – a most difficult task, especially with shaky hands. The shackle eye was tied first, then the splice at the base of the block.  The inner jib stay at the left of the picture has not yet been converted. 
 
The upper ends of the stays are shown in the next picture with the standing ends of the halyards tied to the stays.
 

The last picture shows all three halyards converted.
 

So, we are now back on track after a short detour.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 238 – Head Sails Running Rigging
 
Each of the three stays described in Part 235 carries a triangular headsail.  Each of these sails is rigged with three lines of running rigging – a halyard to raise the head of the sail along the stay, a downhaul to bring the head down, and a double sheet to restrain the clew of the sail on the windward side.  When bent to the stay, the tack at the lower end of the sail is tied off low on the stay.  Then as the luff of the sail along the stay is secured with rope "hanks" the halyard is hauled up to raise the sail along the stay.  Both the halyard and the downhaul are shackled to the sails head cringle.  On the "unsailed" model, the halyard and downhaul eye splices are secured to the shackle, which is "stopped" to the lower end of the stay with a short length of rope as shown in the first picture at the base of the topmast stay.
 

 
In the picture the smaller downhaul is led down and through a single block back to its belaying point on the forecastle.  The next picture shows the lower ends of the inner and outer jib stays rigged in this manner.
 

 
The downhauls and halyards for the topmast staysail and outer jib lead back on the starboard side and those for the inner jib are rigged on the port side.  The next picture shows the three halyards where they pass through blocks hooked under the topmast trestletrees.
 

 
The lines lead down through fairleads in the top to the fife rails below.  The next picture shows the block arrangement at the topmast head, a double block on the starboard side for the staysail and outer jib halyards and a single block on the port side for the inner jib halyard.
 

 
The next picture shows the staysail and outer jib halyards belayed on the fore mast fife rail.
 

 
As will be seen in the next picture, the rope coils on the rails are quite small because the halyards are fully overhauled along the stay when there are no sails.
 

 
The next picture shows the belayed inner jib halyard on the port side.
 

 
Conversely, most of the downhauls must be coiled at the belaying points so sufficient line will be available to run up to the head of the sails when they are hauled up to the tops of the stays, so the three large coils in the next picture contain sufficient line for that.
 

 
Finally, the sheets – a pair for each sail.  These are shackled to eyebolts on either side of the forecastle, run through bullet blocks at the ends of a double pendant shackled to the clue of each sail, and belay on cleats on the forecastle breast beam.  One side or the other is used, with the lee side slack.  On the unsailed model, I have omitted the pendants and intend to coil each sheet adjacent to its eyebolt as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The picture shows the starboard sheet for the topmast staysail secured to its eyebolt.  When passed through the pendant block on this side, this line would be belayed on the innermost cleat on the breast beam. Eyebolts for the other head sails are arranged to the left on the rail, astride the mooring cleat.
 
Ed
 

Just a quick update.   Even though I only have to make 5 more sweeps I can tell you that they take a long time to complete.  I finished the sweeps for one side of the display so now you guys can better see what the finished presentation will look like.  While working on these last few parts I am also finalizing the plans and gearing up to start making kits in just a few weeks.  I am also busy writing the instruction manual.
 
I am looking forward to the Winnie soon after !!!
 

 

 
Chuck

The cat block for the falls has been fabricated and installed.  This is a snatch block, meaning that one end of the slot is left open.  The aft end of the block is mortised around a timberhead.  I have also installed the fish davit cleat with a slot inboard and a straight appearance when viewed from the side.  This is also mortised around timberheads.
 
The boomkin capsquare is located on top of the false rail.  It is secured to the rail with a hinge aft and an eyebolt and key fore.  It looks better in person than the photos suggest!
 

 

 

 
I have now reached a milestone: the woodwork has been completed on the front half of the ship.  For both protection and appearance I applied the initial coat of finish (Watco's Danish Wood Oil).  What a difference the finish makes.  Now one can see all those treenails that were installed a long, long time ago.  Unfortunately, it also shows up the flaws.  the last photo shows the difference the finish gives.  The aft half of the ship does not have finish applied.
 

 

 

In the meantime I have made the plankshear.  This is made of three pieces of plank, scarfed together.  There are mortises for the three gun supports and the edge has a decorative molding on the inside and outside faces.  In order to get the molding to flow across the joints, I make and temporarily installed the planksheer.  Next I popped it off the timbers, leaving the joints intact.  I was now able to cut the molding in one sweep with the scraper.  The photo shows the three pieces glued together and removed from the model.  This actually is a discarded piece as I forgot to extend it to the midline and I did not like the shape of the hance.
 

 
Once this was glued into place, I cut mortises for the timberheads and installed them.  
 

 

 

Spent some time making a base.  Testing how to display the sweeps.   Still only one sweep completed.   Wont get to the others until next week.   Even so,  this project is in the home stretch.  At least the model is.   I still have to carve the decorations for the port side too!!  The sweeps will be displayed 5 per side on laser cut racks.  I just taped them to the base for this test but I like how it will look.  
 
Then I have to finalize the plans,  write the instructions,  think about packaging and start manufacturing.  So still lots to do before these are shelf-ready.  But at least now the long to-do list is shorter and more manageable.
 

 

 

 

 
Chuck

Prototyping the sweeps for the barge.....
 
One down and nine more to go.   Each sweep is made from four pieces.  Each piece is shaped accordingly.  It is either turned and rounded off or tapered and steamed bent.   I will of course elaborate more in the instructions.  But they seem to go together well enough and are pretty straight forward.
 

I am glad you found them....
 
The flags and ensigns are now complete.   The dowels were tapered and painted red.   Then I added the trucks.   The flags are made just like on Cheerful.  They are printed on tissue paper and shaped on the staff.  The ensigns are the English flag from 1710 and Queen Anne's royal standard from the same time period. Next up will be the oars.
 

 

 
Chuck