AnobiumPunctatum

It's a little bit of time over that I last read your log. The progress is absolut fantastic. I love the detailed description of your steps. 

Congrats for finishing this really beautyful model. I looks a little bit like a model that was build 100 years ago. That is what I think makes the model really special

@Hjx 
 
What kind of software do you use? Is it Blender?

Congrats for finishing this really beautyful model. I looks a little bit like a model that was build 100 years ago. That is what I think makes the model really special

Sorry that you have to interrupt your build, Christian. Hopefully you will have a bit of time to enjoy the Rijsmuseum if you are in Amsterdam. Best wishes with the project.

I am very sorry to write this, but I have to stop my build log for a longer period.
 
My company send me to big infrastructure project to the Netherlands. I my apartment there I don't have the possibility to work with timber. When I am at home, I will spend the spare time with my wife and friends. The project is definitely not stopped and I will continue after the project.
 
I the meantime I will work on some drawing projects which I have in my mind (for example a disposition of frames for the Anson from Alexander) and start with card modeling. I hope we will read us. Thanks to all members on MSW who helped me to reach my current stand in the project

The last part of the backbone is the Stern, consisting of the Inner Post and the Stern Post. I build a small jig to adapt the Stem to the Deadwood:

 
For fixing the Stern on the Deadwood I use small brass pins. At the keel I used a simplified tenon joint:

 
Next I milled the scores for the transoms and the rudder hinges:

 
The last picture shows the nearly finished port side of the arrangement. I lost a little the sharp edge of the rabbet, but don't think that I can do it better. So I will live with it. After finishing the starbordside and glueing the complete arrangement together, I will final sand the everything.

 
The two parts of the stern are real tricky and so I am very happy if I can fnish this part. Greg has spllitted his stern post in two part. If I have to do this part another time, I think I will follow this way. The rabbet at the transoms is than a littlebit simplified, but I think his way makes life much simpler.
 

I am very sorry to write this, but I have to stop my build log for a longer period.
 
My company send me to big infrastructure project to the Netherlands. I my apartment there I don't have the possibility to work with timber. When I am at home, I will spend the spare time with my wife and friends. The project is definitely not stopped and I will continue after the project.
 
I the meantime I will work on some drawing projects which I have in my mind (for example a disposition of frames for the Anson from Alexander) and start with card modeling. I hope we will read us. Thanks to all members on MSW who helped me to reach my current stand in the project

After much searching, and following your advice about correcting the scheme as give by Shipyard.  I found what I was wishing to know.  Here is the Berbice as modeled on display at the National Museum of History, USA.
This will be the colors used.  Shipyard got the hull and hardware very close.
Thanks for sending me in the search for period corrections.

I am very sorry to write this, but I have to stop my build log for a longer period.
 
My company send me to big infrastructure project to the Netherlands. I my apartment there I don't have the possibility to work with timber. When I am at home, I will spend the spare time with my wife and friends. The project is definitely not stopped and I will continue after the project.
 
I the meantime I will work on some drawing projects which I have in my mind (for example a disposition of frames for the Anson from Alexander) and start with card modeling. I hope we will read us. Thanks to all members on MSW who helped me to reach my current stand in the project

I am very sorry to write this, but I have to stop my build log for a longer period.
 
My company send me to big infrastructure project to the Netherlands. I my apartment there I don't have the possibility to work with timber. When I am at home, I will spend the spare time with my wife and friends. The project is definitely not stopped and I will continue after the project.
 
I the meantime I will work on some drawing projects which I have in my mind (for example a disposition of frames for the Anson from Alexander) and start with card modeling. I hope we will read us. Thanks to all members on MSW who helped me to reach my current stand in the project

Nice to see you back in the Triton shipyard. Have a lot of fun with the project

Stern before sanding.

This looks ghastly, but all of this will be covered with exterior wood later anyway.  Here, I'm going for accuracy and strength.  The stern "risers" have random pieces of basswood glued between them for strength.  The counter section also shows basswood pieces which have been inserted between the pieces from the actual templates, which have been sanded to shape.

Front view after initial sanding.  I went "all in" with my basswood filler pieces.  I cut and glued basswood throughout the entire model, to ensure I'd have a nice and smooth surface for the planks to lay upon.  After more sanding, this should be a pretty nice surface.

Photo of the inside before sanding.  There's a part of me that really enjoys having horrendous "innards" to my models, which are then covered up with planking.  You can see how much sanding needs to be done on the inside for a smooth surface.  I'm also cutting out the center pieces of the templates, and setting them on the tops of the bulkheads.  By doing so, it's really easy to see which inside aspects of each bulkhead need to be sanded.

Assembling the stern pieces with basswood

I used to have a Triton log, but it went down with the crash years ago.  My priority is to finish my Syren, but thought I'd post my old photos with a few comments.  I don't see a lot of POB logs on here, and suspect people considering the POB version might be hesitant due to the lack of logs, and mentions of a bulkhead which might be out of scale.
 
I've rescaled the plans to 1:64 which is my preferred scale.   The keel pieces are pear.  The photo shows a number of test pieces.
 

That looks much better!
Steve

Thank You Gentlemen....
 
I installed the thwarts and painted them.    Then I began planking the area above them.   I glued one laser cut, pre-spiled plank above the thwarts.  The interesting thing about this plank is the fact that it doesnt extend up to the shear.  It in fact is only wide enough to just touch the bottom edge of the caprail.   This leaves a consistent rabbet or ledge all around the caprail.   Then smaller lengths of laser cut wood the same thickness of the planking are strategically placed on top of this plank.  These small strips do extend to the sheer and are sanded flush with the top of the cap rail.   These pieces are ONLY placed where an oarlock (tholes) will be located.   And they alternate port to starbord as is typical with single banked barges.  This can be seen clearly in the photograph supplied of a typical contemporary model of a barge.
 

 

 
Once Painted I couldnt wait to try out my laser cut panels.  I didnt even wait until all of the interior planking was completed.  This was a real pain to do on the pinnace model and those of you who have built that kit can probably agree.   For the pinnace kit, in order to create the panels you had to first scrape some molding strips to create the fancy profile while keeping the strips very thin.   Then each panel was made by hand where you had to miter each corner of every square panel.  It took dozens of hours over several days.   To alleviate this pain I tried to design laser cut panels with a fancy molded edge. It was of huge importance that this work and look good, in addition to the time savings I was planning on including the friezes in this kit.  If they were laser cut and a consistent size I could include them no problems....
 
I was pleasantly surprised at how well they turned out.  What took dozens of hours over several days on the Pinnace took only a half hour to do on this barge.
 
I have just tested these in position and they are not glued into place yet.  That will be done later after I finish the inboard planking.  The panels are very delicate at only 1/32" thick.  So I sanded the top surface to clean it up and make it bright.  I used a light touch with 320 grit paper.  Then I lightly sanded the outside edges only.  I didnt bother with the inside edges because the panels are too fragile.   I also didnt bother trying to remove the laser char from the etched fancy profile.   After sanding the edges lightly the darker char actually emphasizes the profile and looks rather good.   I would hope you all agree.  They are made from boxwood and once finished with wipe-on-poly they look quite nice.  Friezes printed on paper will be inserted into each panel much like the contemporary model shown above.
 

 
 
 
 

As many of my favorite modelers are posting updates this weekend I thought I'd share some recent progress on Speedwell. She is now sporting her copper cupola (say that three times quickly!) which arches over the steps to the "Great Cabin". I use that term in quotes because, after the lockers are installed, there is little room for the commanding Lieutenant. But this little vessel was designed for shore duty and was seldom used for sleeping. The cupola was shaped from a square of holly, hollowed out then spray painted with a hammered copper finish followed by matte varnish.
 
The rudderhead cover was also shaped from a holly plug which was then hollowed out. The panels were added to each side. Each one was a different dimension and all are hand fitted.
 
A little more work on the inside and outside of the hull and Speedwell, Volume I, will be off to the press!
 
 

Another photo
 

A signed copy is a really nice offer. I'll wait for the book

A signed copy is a really nice offer. I'll wait for the book

A signed copy is a really nice offer. I'll wait for the book