AnobiumPunctatum

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 203 – Dust Case
 
The dust case mentioned earlier was completed this morning.  The first picture shows the framing of the case after the initial paper covering was removed.
 

 
As I mentioned earlier, the framing was made from scrap, so it is not fine furniture.  It is meant to be an inconspicuous part of the project – to keep dust out and allow me to take pictures of the rigging without having to drag out backdrops.  Both sides are easily removable.  The top is Plexiglas® sheet to pass light from the fixtures above.  Six screws at the base permit the entire case to disappear.
 
For those who offered suggestions on covering material, thanks again.  I went with Elmer's white foam board, which is what I used on the previous Victory case.  It is glued to the frames with water-based contact cement.   The next picture shows the port panel covered with the board.
 

 
The panel is covered with two 30x40 sheets.  You may just make out the center seam.  Finally, in the next picture, the completed case, with the starboard panel removed.
 

 
The case is certainly a major presence in the shop.  Now back to the model work.
 
Ed

Another photo 
 

I'm restarting this build.  Mike Shanks and I have been planning on doing a joint projet:  POF "Hannah" in 1/24 scale...the whole ship.  Not sure about rigging yet.  I think the Triton cross section will be good practice for that build.  I cut out and surfaced the blanks of hard maple I'll use for the frames.  The maple is 3/8" thick, giving a final double frame thickness of 3/4".  The footprint of the cross section at this scale is huge:  9-7/8" X 14-1/2"!  The photo shows the plans for frame 2 compared to a midship's frame of "Fair American" at 1/48 scale.  I'm also planning a building jig.  The jig in the photo is one of the popular "2 level" jigs used for the cross section, but it takes into account that the plan view profile of the model is not a rectangle.  The bulwarks curve slightly.  The profile of the sides of the jig (marked by the arrows are clearly curved.  Does anyone have a good way to lay out this curve accurately?  There is no plan view of the framing in the plans.

Made some progress, all of the cram blanks are glued up. Tonight I will start transferring the patterns of the grams to the blanks. I plan to cut them out and glue them to blank with rubber cement. Then it will be time to make the blanks rounded on the bottom and squaring them up for height  in a keel/frame height jig. Before long, I just may be able to start laying the keel and building the hull. 

Hi,
 
today reached a point of no return, the frames are in place...

with the help of the jig and the spacers it was easier then I was expecting. Still had to redo some of the frames in order to align them properly (that is where I am now...)

I played around with patterns of the treenails to fix the frames against the keel...
 

 
The pattern on frame B seems better but from what I read it was only adopted after 1811 (Sappings System?, can anyone confirm this) and the one on frame C was the one in practice between 1710-1811.
Next is the gunport lintels and sills then sanding, lots of sanding...
 
Hugo

Very nice Amalio,
 
I like the way you display the different stages of work on your hull, including sight to the beautiful lower levels of framework and non planked areas...
 
Nils

Really wonderful. I love your precise joinery.

Hello to all!
For my poor English ,the following was translated by software and maybe have some grammar or other mistakes .
The plans of L'ARTÉSIEN were purchased from France in last year,the ship is so beautiful and i want to make it(into a ship model) by cnc.
 

 

 
First I scan the drawings,then make it into 3d model or 2d Vector graph,Then NC engraving,Including 2D and 3d kits for example frames/figurehead...
My project starts from the stem and the main material is pear and jujube...
This process is almost all CNC machining, manual only assembly and polishing...
 
 

 

 

 

 
some photos of  Actually produced...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
mill on double sides
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The two faces are basically the same
 

 

 
Double sides milling of bow special parts...
 
The following is "no bridges"

 

The previous production was "have bridges" As shown below...
 

 


 

 

 
pre-assemble...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The figurehead ...
3d model
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Although not very similar, I have tried my best...
NC machining programming and simulation
 

 

 

 

 
Preparation materials
 

 

 

 
It will take some time to process the finished product
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

dry assembly of the keel, long process of adjust and check
last picture beginning of assembly

Hello,
 
The deck framing is now complete. Here are some pictures.
 
Alexandru

First frame done. It needs sanding I but will save that for later. 

Nice to see you back in your shipyard.

Nice to see you back in your shipyard.

Thank you, friends
 
Matle: very interesting hypothesis....
 
I made windows and started with decoration on the aft.
 
Jan

Thank you, friends.
dgbot: I´m using Revell colors for plastic models.
 
Some details are added on the deck for the running rigging. I also made and glued channels. 
 
Jan

Thank you very much for your kind words
 
The handrail is finished. You can see the result on following pictures - I´m quite satisfied. Now I have to repaint the inner part of sides by matt uncolored paint to remove traces of glue and I can continue with the equipment of the maindeck.
 
Jan

Heloo my friends,
 
Don´t be afraid, I´m working slowly, but I´m working still    I made paper prisms 1 x 1,5 mm, impregned them by superglue and colored. Then I used them to make ribs - now I´m prepared to finish handrails. I also glued both sides of galion. 
 
Jan

The final layer of planking followed - I used 4 mm strips of 0,5 mm cartoon - you can see it on the 1 st picture. Then I sanded it, smoothly putted and sanded it again - the hull was extremely solid and smooth.

"Well... this is a fine mess I've gotten myself into, Ollie.....  " -Stan Laurel
 
I finally got the pictures off the camera, sized.  These are as she sits right now and for the last 2 days.   The information from Gerard gives me pause and some deep thought.   Right now, I'm wondering if I can "fix" this such that the planking butts are random without causing undo harm to the beams, my sanity, etc.
 
 
The catch is the quarterdeck ends just after the main mast.   I could random butt joint from here forward as the butt joints where the cannon and mastershipwright are would not be seen from above but the ones at the main mast area will be visible.  Forward, the butt joints show up well before the forecastle so they'd be out in the open also.   There are ladders, ship's boats, and cannon in the open area between quarter and foredeck but not enough "things" to hide the joints.
 
I'm going to think this through and fiddle with the drawings and if I think I can pull this off (maybe strip back some of the planks) and make it "random" I will.   i'll try to salvage as much of the planks as I can since I already have the rest of the gundeck planks cut and hate the idea of tossing them all out.  If I can't.... I'll just have to go with what I have.
 
Any thoughts, advice, etc. will be considered and appreciated.
 
Anyway... pictures.    The dummy cannon is being used to see if there's any problem with gunports and decking.  So far, so good, or so I thought.  
 



 
 
 
 
 

Hi all
 
Had to take a brake from building but now I appear to be back again, hopefully with some more regular updates. Finally done with the keel. Now on to do some frames!
 
Niklas

advancement:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally finished the frames... I have the jig to assemble them ready (I built something similar to ChadB's.
one question: is there a proper place for the spacers? 
I will post some pictures tomorrow 

The case is finished and carefully pulled over the model, sealing in the model for forever (I hope).  Now I just need to find the time to take it to my Dad who lives 3 hours away.  I'm sure he will love it (he has no clue that I am going to give it to him).  Anyways, here are the pics.....

The next item on the agenda was the quarter deck rail.  All told, this took me about 20 hours to fabricate and install.  There are no construction photos but I will do my best to describe the process.
 
There are five stanchions and a double rail at the break of the quarter deck. The stanchions are morticed into the breast rail inferiorly and the upper rail superiorly.  They pass through the lower rail.  The rails have a beading scraped into them but the thickess is so small, 0.065", that the beading is barely notable.  The stanchions were made as follows:   The profile of the central portion of the stanchion was cut into brass sheet stock as both a template and final shaper.  (I use very thin dental cut-off discs for this operation.)  Square stock slightly larger than the finished dimension was chocked into the lathe. The central portion of the stanchion was then turned just enough to remove all the edges.   Then the profile was roughly shaped by eye.  Finally, the template was used as a scraper to provide the final shape.  Slots were drilled and cleaned up for the sheaves.  These are simple discs, turned with a Dremel and sandpaper to the correct diameter and then center-bored before cutting off to prevent splintering.
 

 
The rails were shaped by placing them in a moist paper towel in the microwave...low power  and 10 second bursts.  They were then clamped to a curved chair back to dry.  It is very fiddly to get everything plumb and square, especially when the deck and the rails curve.  My sequence was to first insert the stancions into the breast rail mortices.   When the glue was set but not dry I inserted the lower rail and glued it into position.  After that was set I added the top rail and clamped everything to dry.  In the picture above, I still have to remove escess glue.  It really looks better than the photo would suggest; on my computer screen this is 5X magnification.  It looks better in the next photo.  It also looks like I have a ring bolt to replace!