AnobiumPunctatum

HI ALL
TIME FOR AN UPDATE OF SORTS.
 
WHILST WORKING ON THE WASHINGTON GALLEY IT BECAME APPARENT THAT I NEEDED SOME WAY OF CUTTING THIN STOCK FROM LARGER BOARDS.
 
THE HOLLY I HAVE WAS PURCHASED FROM A CHAP WHO HAD JUST FINISHED RESTORING A RIVA AQAUMARINA.......A NICE LITTLE MAHOGANY AND HOLLY RUNABOUT FROM THE 50S / 60S ?????
 
WHEN IT TURNED UP IT WAS AS ROUGH AS THE PROVERBIAL BEARS POSTERIER.......NOT HAVING THE ABILITY TO PROCESS ROUGH SAWN TIMBER I TOOK IT TO A SMALL LOCAL TIMBER COMPANY ,WHO FOR A MODEST FEE, PROCESSED IT FOR ME.......DOWN TO 8MM IN THICKNESS.
 
I NEEDED TO CUT SOME 1/32 " PLANKS FROM THIS FOR THE LOWER DECK......I WILL ALSO NEED TO CUT SOME 1/16" PLANKS FOR THE MAIN DECK AND QUARTER DECK LATER ON.
 
FOR THE LOWER DECK I IMPROVISED A SIMPLE WOODEN JIG AS SHOWN IN THE FIRST PHOTO.
 
TROUBLE IS I WOULD NEED TO MAKE ONE OF THESE FOR EVERY DIFFERENT PLANK THICKNESS I CAME ACROSS.
 
IM NOT OVERLY HAPPY CUTTING THESE PLANKS THE NORMAL WAY USING THE FENCE....THOSE THIN LITTLE PLANKS CAN GET UP TO ALL SORTS OF MISCHEVIOUS THINGS IF YOUR NOT CAREFUL.
 
AS HAS BEEN MENTIONED IN NUMEROUS OTHER LOGS ITS FAR SAFER AND MUCH LESS NERVE RACKING TO CUT THESE PLANKS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE BLADE AS IT WERE.
 
THE MAKE SHIFT WOODEN JIG PERFORMED PRETTY WELL, BUT I WANTED TO HAVE A GO AND BUILD SOMETHING ADJUSTABLE AND PERMANENT.
 
THE RESULTS ARE ENCLOSED FOR YOUR DELICTATION.......BUT THERE  IS SOME FURTHER WORK LEFT TO DO.
 
CHEERS FOR NOW....MICK

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Welcome the Triton shipyard and a lot of fun with the build

Welcome the Triton shipyard and a lot of fun with the build

Welcome the Triton shipyard and a lot of fun with the build

I decided that I would make this my initial build. This build will introduce me to most aspects of model building. I will be using Walnut as my primary lumber as a large walnut tree was blown over on my property last summer and it seems to resaw nicely. I also have a nice supply of Maple and Swiss Pear.  I am considering upscaling to 1:32 and is likely. I have been like a sponge absorbing everything I can on this forum and have built quite a resource library. Looking forward to the hands on now. I handle critiques well, so all are welcome.
 
Dupree

]Lower deck guns rigged and run out .. ready for the first broad side... well ...almost. Got all of the poop deck to do as well as its fittings  rails and swivel guns. etc. (  deck not glued down in the image") For now I'd like to know just what sort of binnacle was typical for a 18th century ship during the American revolution. The plans I have show a deck box and I assume engine controls probably a compass etc . Also where the ships bell might be.
 
My big question is a rigging plan. My plans show only standing rigging and main peak & throat  blocks  halyards etc.with no clue as to just where they might go. So my question is any one here knowledgeable where all the running rigging should go and belay to?  
 
 
 
Thanks
 
S.O..S

Thanks very much for the likes and comments.
You are right, Greg. I have to sand this later down. I don't find a way to do this with my small mill and chisels.
There's much more to sand down. 
 
I'am not sure what is more complicated, the stem ore the stern deadwood. I think the stern, because there are a lot of different steps to do and you have to think about every step, before you start. I made me a small list of all single steps and hope I've nothing forgotten.

Next step is the after deadwood.
 
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.


All components are put temporarily together

 
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:


As final step the template will be cut out:


The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site


Next step will be the port side.

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

The keel is laid down.

The picture shows the current version compared with the old keel in 1/48.



Due to the larger scale it is much easier to display small details such as the treenails to scale correctly.



The next steps in the construction of the complete keel arrangement are the same as described in my old build log. I will only change some smaller details.
 

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

Next step is the after deadwood.
 
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.


All components are put temporarily together

 
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:


As final step the template will be cut out:


The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site


Next step will be the port side.

Hi Don,
I need to finish just only rigging plans and then all will be ready. I start production of some parts and I am also waiting now for my supplier when resin parts will be ready. I hope it will be ready during one month (only in white box first but for better preorder price ).
Best regards
Daniel

Hi Jan, Don and all,
Sorry, I did not wrote it. Scale of the model is 1/48, length:505mm, height: 480mm, width: 175mm
 
Best regards
Daniel

The build is superb! I like the clean shop; but if you're like me, you won't be able to find anything for a while.

With special thanks to Roger, I re-worked the gears as built-up wooden gears.  The joints are simulated and the bolts are 20 pound mono- filament line.  The lighter parts in the center are a reflection of the light above...not a different color.  They are certainly more interesting this way.
Maury

Pawel
 
Will the below decks detail be visible once the deck is in place? It would be tragic to loose sight of all of your lovely work.

Continuation.
 
 
 

 

 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 185 – Iron Mast Bands 2
 
In addition to the shrunk-on hoops that reinforced the masts, there were bands for other purposes.  On the lower masts these included bands with eyebolts to secure rigging, bands to secure the spencer gaffs and bands that supported the lower yard trusses.  These other bands were generally clamped on the mast rather than heat shrunk.  I experimented with two different methods for making these.  The first picture shows a clamp band bent around the mast ( actually the mandrel) to be soldered in one piece.
 

 
The next picture shows a band made like the reinforcing bands to which parts will be soldered to form the clamp joint and in this case the bracket for the yard truss.
 

 
This band is made from thicker material.   The tabs on the truss bracket in the lower part of the picture were bent around some band stock to size the gap.  The bracket was then hammered square before soldering.   In the next picture the truss band has been soldered together and a wire bolt added at the clamp joint.
 

 
In the picture the band is pushed on to the mandrel for finish filing and polishing.  The next picture shows the special bands on the foremast.  These are the three at the top.
 

 
At the top is the truss band – blackened.  More on that below.  Below that is the band that supports the fore spencer gaff.  The eyebolt on the aft side of this is not visible in the picture.  Next is the futtock band with six eyebolts for the lower futtocks and one on the aft face to secure a block for another line, I believe one of the main staysail's downhaul.  The bands below these are the normal reinforcing bands.  The joints that show on these will be covered by the forward chafing batten.  The next picture is another view.
 

 
In this picture the horizontal eye for the spencer gaff is visible in the band below the truss.  The pattern of the eyebolts on the futtock band and the chafing batten may be seen in the drawing.
 
The last picture shows the fore mast with all its iron bands installed.
 

 
Some bands are blackened on this mast and others not.  The plan going forward is to defer all blackening until all other work on the mast is complete – hounds, bibbs, battens, cap tenon, yard sling eyebolt, etc.  Blackening just before installing the mast will reduce handling of the blackened parts and the resultant rubbing off of the black.  It will also help keep the wood surface of the mast clean of black.  These were problems on the first main mast.  A replacement is in progress.
 
 
 
Ed

I don't want to hit the Like Button, because It  made me very sad what I see. There was a huge amount of work in your frameing and it must be a pain for you to make this cut.
 
I hope and cross all my fingers that you can restore your work.