AnobiumPunctatum

The serach for the lighting continues.
 
In the last months I searched a way to synchronize 2 kinds of flash  lighting. There are few information on internet, each company makes his own transmitter and very few want to mix  with other companies. But it is possible synchronize the 2 different kinds of flash I use. 
 
3 speedlites flashes installed on or  separate from a camera  and  2 strobes lighting on a light stand. Each system has his own transmitter and the solution is to find a way to fire all the flashes at the same time. Finally the solution is very easy and there is no need to buy any additionnal transmitter like Pocket wizard and this event if they said so in a video sponsorised by Pocket wizard.
 
The Canon speedlites are all synchronized in 1 group to flash at the same time. The other kind of strobes from Profoto  have a cell that detects the flash from Canon:  so they all can fire at the same time.
 
Last week, I went in a photography equipement show and I brought back a continuous  LED lighting. I measured it to compare with the other  lighting I have. It is even better than the best Lamp I have: 25,000 lux at 12 inches. The best Lamp I have is a Xenon light 19,800 lux at 12 inches and the worst I have are 3 halogens with 500 lux.
 
So if you want a good lighting to see every thing, this is the way to go.
 

Michael,  I am using Grumbacher acrylic paints in a tube.  Specifically Mars Black.
 
I finished the boom today and its all rigged.  It was shaped the same way as the mast.  I started with square stock and used the 7/10/7 ratio to convert to an octagon.   Then I used my drill to round it off and put the taper on it.   The jaws were added after I flattened the sides to accept them.
 
The blocks were prepared in advance, meaning some were added to the boom ahead of time.   Other blocks were secured to the mast and horse for sheets.   Then it was just a matter of rigging it in place.  I have only tightened the ropes around the cleats without any glue.  I will leave it this way until after the standing rigging is completed in case I have to re-tension the lines.  But from the way it looks I think it will be OK.
 
For the trucks on the jaws to secure the boom to the mast,  I used what I found in the shop.  I had some boxwood beads laying around that were the perfect size....I might even have enough left over to give the remainder to Mike for his model.   
 
Here are some pics.  Next up will be the gaff.
 

 

 

I figured the same Dan.   The lower mast has been completed and I am now working on the topmast.
 
To begin,  I started with square boxwood stock.  Then I squared up and tapered the top according to the plans using some chisels and sanding sticks.  But before doing that I drilled the holes for the sheave as you can see.  Once the top portion was squared off and tapered I finished up the sheave by rounding it off and cleaning it up.  You can also see the 7/10/7 ratio applied to the lower mast.  I am about to chisel it to an octagon in preparation for rounding it off.  The entire mast was left a bit long so I have some extra to chock it in my hand drill.
 

 
It was chocked and rounded off with some sandpaper.  I also carefull added the taper to the rounded portion while sanding it.
 

 
Then the boom rest was fabricated from a washer of boxwood 3/32" thick.  Just like the mast coat it was shaped with its profile using needle files and sanding sticks.  It was cut in half and then the small chocks were added around the perimeter after it was glued into position.  I still have to add the cleats around the base of the lower mast as well.
 
I made sure to make the mast hoops using the mini-kits from Syren and slip those on the mast before adding the trestle tree permanently.   I was afraid that I would forget but I didnt.  
 

 
The trees were crafted from boxwood using the plans as a guide.  It was pretty straight forward except for the fact that it must be angled properly on the mast.  Once the cheeks were shaped and glued to the mast the proper angle for the trees was filed into the mast.  The mast is angled or raked aft and the trees must remain parallel to the deck.  So considerable time was used to establish the correct angle.
 

 
Finally the cleats were added and the lower portion painted red.
 

 
Then the masthead area from the bottom of the cheeks upwards was painted black.  That was done after adding the mast bands and eyebolts.  These will be used for the boom and gaff rigging later.
 

 
 
 
 

To make Macedonian's lower masts, I looked at various sources.  This forum, Internet searches, period pieces like Steel's.  Photos of models.  But while I could see the end product, it was hard for me to visualize what was going on, or how it got to that point.  Lee's Masting and Rigging was, in some ways, the clearest and easiest to comprehend; my problem with Lee's is trying to pick MY time-frame from the stew of data he presents.  Often only parts of things change, so you have to piece it together; checks from 1800-1816, hounds from 1770-1820, rubbing paunch from 1810-, brains from Abby Normal, and that sort of thing.
 
For my 1812ish frigate it seems, if I interpret all this correctly, The mast can be a single piece with cheeks and rubbing paunch (used to be the front fish) added on.  It tapers from the deck to the top end.  From the top of the cheeks/hounds down, it's round except it's left flat on the sides where the cheeks attach.  The cheeks are rounded themselves to nearly blend into the mast, but there's a bit of a step or channel formed so they don't taper down to nothing at the sides.  The real hounds are a separate piece scarfed onto the cheeks.  I found it better to actually do this so they weren't in the way or getting damaged.  Lee's gives the proportions of these parts; for instance, the rubbing paunch is 1/3 the width of the mast.
 
I didn't put any taper in the space between decks, and the bury below the gundeck is 8-sided.  After shaping the core of the mast, I used strips of copper tape left-over from Constellation's bottom to make the banding.  Every-other band where the cheeks are is under them and need to go on before the cheeks.
 
It's not as clean and simple as Constellation's 1850's mast and spars, but it's not as complicated as it first appears.
 
My drawing of how I'm constructing Macedonian's masts.  The side views don't show the rubbing paunch.
 

 
Mainmast of HMS Impregnable showing cheek pieces and rubbing paunch.  There's filler blocks next to the cheeks for the banding that goes over the them - I don't see this for my 1810-1812 period.
 

 
Mizzen tapered

 
Fore tapered

 
Mizzen cheeks glued on


 
Mizzen banding over cheeks applied, and rubbing paunch attached.

 
Upper part of fore mast shaped and banding applied.  Port-side cheek piece is cut and shaped.

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.   
 
Pat... I don't think DARPA will care... they have bigger lasers... much bigger like mulit-MW.  
 
 
Here's the update..  Center line planking is finished and sanded.  I've added the bitts that needed to be installed before the planking was done.  I'm working on the three ladders going down to the lower deck while I still have access to that.  I'd hate to drop one and then figure out how to fish it out.  Seems Mr. Murphy has been running rampant around these parts lately.
 
I'm also in the process of building the coamings and grates.  I'm going to put blue tape over them before doing the rest of the planking and ceiling just to keep crap from dropping down into the interior.  I'm still wanting to keep as much of the furniture out of the way as I can for the ceiling spalls so those other bits and pieces will have to wait.
 
As a sidenote, I only sanded of the loose char and ash as ended up with a nice thin black line between planks for the caulking.  
 
Pressing on.....    and as always, comments, critiques, better ideas, are always welcome.
 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 184 – Iron Mast Bands
 
Iron hoops, or bands were used to hold made mast sticks together and to reinforce single tree masts.  These were 4" wide and ½" thick and were spaced about 36" apart.  Circumference of the mast at the band location was measured and a ring of that diameter was forged.  To install on the mast the band was heated, slipped on by the smaller end and driven into place.  It was then quenched with water to create a tight shrink fit before it had a chance to char the mast.
 
The bands on the model are copper, made from .010" sheet stock sliced into 4" strips.  Once the bands are sized and silver-soldered, the main issues become fixing them in position on the mast and blackening them without getting visible black smudges on the mast.  The solution (no pun intended) I adopted was shellac – to be explained below.
 
First, a look at the (almost) final product.  In the first picture the main mast is fully hooped and the fore mast is in progress.
 
 

 
There are a few special bands on the main mast – to be described later. Also, on that mast, with the bands complete, the hounds are being fitted.  This cannot be done until the bands above main deck partners are slipped over the top.  The housing bands – below the deck – are slipped on from the bottom.
 
When the masts were made, I also shaped two mandrels to aid in making the bands, one the shape of the fore mast and one smaller.  These are shown in the next picture with main and fore masts in progress.
 

 
Except for overall length and housing length, the main and fore masts are virtually identical in their diameters.  The mandrels have pin holes drilled along their length for use as shown below.
 

 
In the picture a strip has been drilled on one end, pinned to the mandrel at the desired diameter, wrapped tightly with the copper strip, and then clamped in the vise.  The hammer and razor blade in the picture were used to cut squarely through the strip, yielding open rings as shown below.
 

 
I won't go through complete detail for sizing the rings, except to say that they were trimmed before soldering to yield a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of their position on the mast.  In the next picture a soldered ring has been fitted over the mandrel for filing and polishing.
 

 
In the next picture a ring is being pushed into its position in small, even steps using a piece of hard wood.
 

 
By the time it gets to where it belongs it will have been stretched and will be fairly tight on the mast. 
 
Before banding, the mast was given a coating of thinned, clear shellac for two reasons: 1) the shellac will act as a sealer and prevent excess blackening from staining the open wood grain, and 2) because the shellac is soluble in methanol, wetting under the ring with that solvent – as shown in the next picture – will dissolve the shellac and when dry it will contribute to the bond under the ring.   With few exceptions the rings were practically immovable after this step.
 

 
The copper rings were then blackened using liver of sulfur solution.  Best results were obtained by applying the LOS by rubbing with a cotton swab followed by an immediate and thorough rinse under a faucet to wash away excess black.  The method is still something of a work in process that will hopefully be fully developed for Volume III.
 
The "special" bands mentioned above – the futtock band and the lower yard truss band will be described in the next part.
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 183 – New Home Port 1
 
With the prospect of rigging work looming, it was time to think about a new birth for the Young America model – a new "home port."  Two requirements: 1) dust protection, an enclosure that would keep dust off the model and also provide necessary access for the work.  2) a larger shipway, large enough to provide a base for the dust enclosure.
 
The design for this is very similar to the enclosure I built for the Victory model, but larger.  In that earlier box I used foam board to enclose the sides. This is larger than the standard sizes and also I wanted the inside corners to be more seamless to provide a good photographic background for the many close up pictures that I expect to take during the work.  I am determined to build this entirely from scrap material of which I have a supply that needs to be consumed.
 
The first picture shows the new shipway.
 

 
The base is a disused, laminate coated, particle board kitchen panel painted with gloss white enamel. It is 61" long and 19" wide.  The width will allow the main yard to be squared with its retracted studding sail booms.  The length will accommodate the flying jibboom and the mizzen booms.  One of the hull drawings has been pasted to this and in the picture the board is being framed with pine sides.  These will keep the underside raised enough to allow the mounting bolts and also provide support for the upper parts of the case. 
 
The first work on ends is shown below.  Pieces for the 42" high end frames are ready for assembly.
 

 
In the next picture the lap joints of the end frames are being glued.
 

 
In the next picture the model is being mounted on the new shipway.
 

 
The copper wire strut is being used to very gently bring the hull into alignment using the square and triangle as guides.  The three mounting bolts and single blocks screwed into the base on each side hold the hull securely in this position.
 
The last picture shows the two assembled end frames and the top.  The top frame encloses a sheet of Plexiglas® that will allow overhead lights to illuminate the model.  The top has screwed corner gussets for additional rigidity and strength.  The 3/16" acrylic sheet is heavy.
 

 
The pieces shown may be assembled once the end panels are papered.  The side panels will then be made.  They will be easily removable without tools.  The ends and top may also be removed with a screwdriver.
 
Banding of the masts has been proceeding and will be the subject of the next part, but I wanted to interject this first work onn the case since it will begin to appear in pictures.
 
Ed
 

Thank you all! Continue the construction of the bulwark...

Thank You, Michael! I after primary school went to College at locksmith mechanical works. Today a little progress, alas, very little time for Hobbies.

Hi friends, thank you all cometarios you do, this encourages me and even more coming from such experienced modelers, thank you comrades.
Of course I will continue to pass images of the advances I am making.
The supports are made by me, the design is our companion Chimista, and can effectively adapt very well to our need.
Os paso pictures, saludos Liberto

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Thanks Tim, as we did not have a show n tell I did not bring it.
 
Moving along - the wales are in place with a reasonable fit to the lines and gunports.
I have used my other camera which is much better so here is a general view from the port bow.

Sunday 13 Nov 2016
 
I managed to sand and install the last two chocks.  My first attempt at sanding ended in the part disappearing under the stop (because it was so thin at 0.02" or 0.46mm) and being sucked up by the vacuum.  The chocks are hemlock and measure 10" in height (approx 5/32").  They are 9" on the plan but at this build scale who can tell the difference.
 

 
Drilled and installed the bolts into the frame and through the chocks then trimmed flush.
 
 
 
Cut and milled a blank of Costello 0.079" thick for the next frame set.  Cut that length in half and rubber glued them together, clamped and ready to trace the template and cut the frame pieces in matching pairs.
 

Here are the missing pictures from Post 115.
 
 
 
 

Is looking really great, Mike

Fantastic results of a very unorthodox method.
Isn't there a big risc to damage the planking during the demolitian of the internal structure.
 
It would be very interesting if you could give us more information about your method.

Fantastic results of a very unorthodox method.
Isn't there a big risc to damage the planking during the demolitian of the internal structure.
 
It would be very interesting if you could give us more information about your method.

Is looking really great, Mike

a few shots of the interior work, showing marquetry flooring in great cabin

some carving work

further progress January 2015

Started a work on counter timbers and transom, Hahn jig allows to build it pretty early, since all counter timbers would be glued to the jig and there is a little chance of damaging them.
Oliver Cromwell has a pretty weird counter timbers / windows framing. 
On most of the other models I saw, counter timbers follow the lines of the hull and transom wings.
For example, here is a Remco's Kingfisher (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/18-hms-kingfisher-by-remco-1770-english-14-gun-sloop-pof-148):

 
In my case, however, both NMM drawing and Hahn's interpretation of it show that windows (and, hence, counter timbers) are basically square and vertical, and do not follow the hull shape:

 

 
I already made transom wings following the dotted line on these drawings, which follows the shape of the hull. Now I have only one realistic option - make counter timbers evenly spaced and end up with framing similar to the other models of this period (like Swan class). And windows will not be as square as they are on Hahn's model. So be it. Or I am missing something obvious in this problem? Would apperciate a second look, I might be misinterpreting all that drawings?
 
In a meanwhile, made some assisting construction to help with alignment of the counter timbers. True redneck engineering! But better than nothing:

 

 
And made the counter timbers themselves. Left group is a second-tier, where I made few mistakes (joints with gaps, etc). It will go to the planked side of the model where all these mistakes would be covered.
The right group are a prime timbers that would go to the exposed side of the hull. So good to have a side where all mistakes would be hidden!
 

Continue

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I realized that I have mounted the hat of the light on the contrary, but fortunately it's only temporary, to make pictures....   

These days I am trying to build a sternlight.
I began by its cover I first made of wood, in order to understand the forms, and then I tried to make brass.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

continues work on the bow: