AnobiumPunctatum

Hi,
 
Thank you for all the likes.  I've been busy with the sails and ratlines.
 
Walter
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 180 – Bowsprit
 
So, after three years and179 parts to this build log it is finally time to get off the deck.  Making the largest spars – lower masts and bowsprit – is the first order of business.
 
In shaping all the spars for the model, I expect to generally follow the methods used by the original spar makers – except of course for the tools.  I expect to take some liberties with the made masts, but that will be covered later.  There are many steps involved in getting from a model "tree" to a finished spar.  I do not intend to cover them in detail here, but merely to provide an overview.  Even at that, this posting on the bowsprit has nine pictures and a fair amount of text.
 
I started with the bowsprit as perhaps the simplest of the large spars.  At 47' long and 36" maximum diameter it was undoubtedly made from a single tree – probably of long leaf (yellow) pine.  The first picture shows the spar after the "first trimming" – the point at which the tree has been squared to the spars maximum diameter and cut roughly to length.
 

 
The piece has been marked on all four faces at the ends and at the four "quarters" forward of the "partners" – that is in this case, the knightheads.  The square section inside the knightheads has been marked.  Centerlines have been drawn on all four faces.
 
In the next picture the breadths at each quarter and the ends are being marked on one face only with dividers set from the drawing.
 

 
In the next picture the "second trimming" is being made on the disk sander. 
 

 
Two opposite faces are being trimmed back to the measurements made above.  This tool helps keep the cuts perpendicular and fair.  The next picture shows the spar after the second trim.  It shows the tapers at the ends on two opposing sides only. 
 

 
These cuts were made just slightly full so they could be safely finished to the final dimensions in later steps.  The calipers and the calculator are key tools for this.  The converted dimensions may be seen in pencil on the drawing.  In the picture the trimmed faces have been marked with centerlines and quarter marks.  The breadths at each point were then marked on the trimmed faces, so the "third trimming" could be made on the remaining two sides – also on the disk sander as before.  The bowsprit after the third trim is shown fitted part way in position between the knightheads.
 

 
The next step – the fourth trimming – converts the still square areas (except at the partners) to an intermediate octagonal shape.  The trimming is done by hand – planes, rasps, files, scraper plate.  To provide some rough guide lines for that work, the tool shown below was useful.
 

 
The apices of an octagon are 7/24 of the diameter in from the sides of the square at each point along the curve.  The tool shown has a scriber point at 7/24 distance from one of two end guides.  By angling the tool as it is drawn along the spar, a 7/24 line is scribed.  This takes some practice and is a rough measure – but a very helpful one.  With lines marked on each face of the square section, the octagonal flats were cut and the spar trimmed as shown below.   
 

 
A lot of caliper measurements and fine trimmings are required to get the spar to this point.  The diameters of all the faces at each point are measured and trimmed to size.   The final, "fifth trimming" is being made below.
 

 
The apices are being filed off and the spar rounded.  Again the diameters at each mark are checked.  Roundness along the spar was checked using a draftsman's circle template to spot high areas.  The last picture shows the bowsprit fitted temporarily with its tenon seated in the step above the main deck.
 

 
In the picture the bowsprit has been sanded but not polished and the tenon for the cap is not yet cut.
 
Ed
 

You can see it now Carl!
 
:cheers: :cheers:
 
Done! Finished! I finished the model finally!
 
:cheers: :cheers:
 
The flags were the final touch.
I re-painted them with acrylic paint in order to let be "less shiny".
Now it will take some time to pack all the tools and accessories used during this year...
I made a bit more photo than usual, just to show better the final appearance of the model.
The last photo shows its final positioning in the wall niche.
 
 

different colors, no, different lighting.
 
In fact, practice for a white background.
The idea is to have 2 lights:  1 for the model and for for the background with 1 F stop in more.

Gary, 
 
you are at the beginning of a very long journey. I think it will be a good idea to notice your thoughts about the appearance of the finished model, but it is not necessary to finish this thoughts in the moment. 
I am working a little bit longer on my model, but I am in a similar stage. I decided to notice what I linke to show and finalize these thoughts after completing the framing. One of my ideas is to show also the ship boats. But I haven't decide how. Stored, Beside the model or in a small scene with the real ship...
 
One good idea is to have a look in the different building logs on MSW, see what other modelers did and decide if you like the appearance. 

Gary, 
 
you are at the beginning of a very long journey. I think it will be a good idea to notice your thoughts about the appearance of the finished model, but it is not necessary to finish this thoughts in the moment. 
I am working a little bit longer on my model, but I am in a similar stage. I decided to notice what I linke to show and finalize these thoughts after completing the framing. One of my ideas is to show also the ship boats. But I haven't decide how. Stored, Beside the model or in a small scene with the real ship...
 
One good idea is to have a look in the different building logs on MSW, see what other modelers did and decide if you like the appearance. 

Greg and Christian thanks for replying
I've given it a lot of thought on how to display the model here are my first thoughts they will probably change. Fully framed with chocks and fastenings, whales on both sides and planked partly on one side don't know how much. Decks fully framed and part planked. Guns on one side only fully rigged. As to masts perhaps as if in reserve striped to lower masts and a little bit of rigging.
Yours Gary

Welcome on the Swan Class shipyards. If you can see in my signature I am also working on a model. I decided to build HMS Fly, because I like the painted friezes.
I will follow your log with interest

Welcome on the Swan Class shipyards. If you can see in my signature I am also working on a model. I decided to build HMS Fly, because I like the painted friezes.
I will follow your log with interest

Looks really nice, Tony

Looks really nice, Tony

Looks really nice, Tony

Well its time to make fresh start. So a new beginning a new project can you all stand another swan class build. Have not decided which one as the title says would like to do one that is different any suggestions.
So it begins with a white tube from Admiralty models. Its the basic plans that will start the journey. Beware this is the first time I have ever done anything like this. So I hope you all will keep me on the right course. I'll try and make it different than other swan build where other members are leading the way in quality.
In the next I will take a look at my version of a slipway (posh for base board)
Yours Gary

Wonderful pictures of a beautiful model

Wonderful pictures of a beautiful model

snakes and palm bow ( I don't know if their names are correct):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also finished the hardware of two cranes

 

 

 

I finished fixing the cannons
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for all the "likes" and comments.  I installed the clamps and cleaned up the keelson and assorted frame parts where the remnants of the spacers still showed.  The clamps will have at least two actual treenails per plank for additional support, the rest are simulated as described earlier.  The mast and capstan axle steps needed re-working with the limber planks in place.  I was drawing the capstans and after looking at the scantlings in Steel's "Elements...." I thought maybe I over-sized them for the size of the boat, but then realized they have to be large enough to handle the anchors of the large ships.  My original sizing seems appropriate.
Maury

Looks really great, Tony

Absolut fantastic. I am a big fan of your build

Thank you for following along on this adventure and for the comments and "likes"....
 
Update weekend...
 
I've added the carlings where there will be a hatchway or ladderway.  Since the French laid their planks and then put the coamings ontop of the deck planking, the carlings will seen.   I've also added the mast partners, the capstan partner (I think that's the right term) and have started making bits and pieces while sorting out the deck planking.   The officer's ladder from the gundeck to the lower deck can be seen laying on the beams, the crew's ladders are in work and both fit in between the main mast partner and the oven on the lower deck.    I was 1/16th of an inch off on the making of the various deck pieces and planning the centerline planking (thick stuff).  It should be 3/32" of an inch instead of the 1/8" I mentioned previously... a miscalculation on my part.  I left the mizzen mast partner at the thicker size to better fit the pantry around it.   
 
Pictures show things ready for the next step.  The second picture is just a reference shot with dummy masts and the capstan in place to get an idea of things...  
 
 

 

 
As always, comments, corrections, and critiques are welcome. I'm still learning this art...
 

Looks really great, Tony

I have made a new bell and am much happier with it.  It is in better proportion and I was able to get a smoother finish as well.  Like the first one it is gold leafed.  The first three pictures show the assembly before a finish was applied.  The last two show things after a coat of Watco's.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 179 – Swinging Boom Hardware
 
Another small detailing chore.
 
The primary purpose of the lower studdingsail booms, commonly called swinging booms in this period, were to secure the feet of the studding sails sometimes used on either side of the foresail, and less commonly outside the mainsail.  These booms were also sometimes deployed in port for the mooring of small boats.  I expect to store two of these booms on the cabin deck skid beams and include hardware to support them on the fore channels only.  The first picture shows the iron brackets at each end the port fore channel.
 

 
The forward bracket is simply an iron bar with a hole to accept a gooseneck at the end of the boom.  At the aft end of the channel is an iron cradle to support the boom when fitted but not extended.  Both fittings are bolted through the channels.  The next picture shows one set of roughly formed fittings.
 

 
The support bracket to the right is being formed in the next picture, beginning with the bending of a right angle.
 

 
After bending the brass strip, it is hammered in the vise to form a sharp angle.  The round cradle at the end was then formed as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The end of the strip is left long to facilitate bending of the curve.  The bracket at the bottom of the picture has two bolts fitted.  In the next picture a fitting is set up for soldering of the bolts.
 

 
The bolts were then filed off and the pieces finish filed and buffed, pickled, degreased and blackened.  The last picture shows the starboard fore channel with the brackets installed.
 

 
 
Ed