AnobiumPunctatum

Well, my beloved Royals have won the baseball World Series, and I'm back to work on the Bertrand. 
 

 
The main deck structures are complete, and I've mostly finished framing up the boiler deck. This was surprisingly difficult, as there's no flat frame of reference (the main deck curves in every direction). Getting the support posts vertical in both directions was quite interesting. I've been very bad about taking "process" photos during this stage, so you'll just have to imagine things. The only consistently flat frame of reference is, oddly enough, the bottom of the hull. So I made a complicated jig of solid wood strips clamped to the hull, from which I could extend vertical squares, onto which I clamped cross-ways strips, to which I could clamp the vertical posts. Fiddly, but effective. I also made strong use of the eyeball; I'd rather a line of posts LOOK straight relative to each other, even if they're slightly out of line relative to true vertical.
 
Once the posts were in place, I began adding cross-pieces. Technically the boiler deck should have a slight bit of camber to it, but I decided that would be too difficult and would be barely visible at this scale, as most of the deck will be covered by the cabins. The more significant camber of the main deck shows up nicely, and is sufficient for my taste. Thus the deck is flat athwartships, but curves gently fore and aft to follow the rise of the main deck in both directions. 
 

 
I finished planking the main deck as far I as intend to; this extent will allow the model to look complete from a port 45-degree angle fore or aft, but still leaves plenty of internal view from the starboard side. It's a little rough in places, but will have to do. I'll put a crate or something over a few plank ends that stick up more than I'd like.
 

 
View from the open starboard side. I've also finished installing the hog chain braces; these angled posts support metal rods running fore-and-aft, with turnbuckles on them, which keep the long, narrow hull from sagging/hogging. I won't install the actual rods until near the end of the project, as they'll be in the way, but needed to do the braces now as they extend through multiple decks. They're intentionally a bit longer than necessary, so I can cut them off just as I like them once I finish the superstructure. 
 
Currently I'm building the boiler assembly, which sits just forward of the cargo shed on the main deck. I intentionally haven't installed the vertical support posts at the front of the boiler deck, to allow me to slide the boiler in there. Once it's in place, I'll finish that area and install the staircases (already built) just in front of the boilers.
 
I think things will go rapidly for a little while, now. Install the boilers, connect them to the engines with steam lines, plank in the entire boiler deck, and then move on to building the cabin area. I still have to decide whether to order a bunch of styrene windows and doors, or try to make my own out of strip wood. The former would be far faster and more consistently detailed, but more expensive and hard to make look just like the surrounding wood. The latter would take a long time, but be a lot cheaper and fit in better if I can make them realistically enough. I'll decide once the next deck is done.
 
I'm holding out hope of reaching my goal to complete this model by the end of the year. Luckily the approach of winter means nice long evenings for quiet model work. She's certainly starting to look something like a steamboat. In the meantime, here's a fine Ozark fiddler playing "Jefferson City", one of Bertrand's ports of call on her way upriver.
 

 
 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 30 – Coamings
 
I think I have mentioned before that the term “coamings” describes not only the entire hatch framing but also the fore and aft members. This can be confusing when writing – or reading - descriptions.  The cross deck members are called head ledges.  Coamings for hatchways and deck cabins needed to be installed on the model before decking could begin.  On the full framed version, with its complete underdeck framing, the hatchways were built up on the actual opening.  Since the POB model has only bulkheads at the stations, a template made from the deck plan drawings was used to assemble the hatchways.  This is shown below. (Sorry, the main cabin template is mis-labelled "main hatch" on this early version of the template.)
 

 
The hatchways for the POB model were made in exactly the same way as those on the larger framed model.  I described this process in the build log for the other model and more thoroughly in the book.  In the next picture a dovetailed lap joint at the corner of the main deck cabin coaming is being fitted.
 

 
These corner joints are a bit complex, but as I said, they are well described elsewhere.  In all cases the cross-deck head ledges fit over the ends of the coamings, thus clamping them down.  Head ledges were bolted through the beams, while coamings were fitted over carlings that were normally only wedged between beams – thus having little resistance to upward forces.  The excess stock at the corners was removed after assembly when the corners were squared off and the above deck parts rounded - by sanding/filing.
 
The next picture shows the poop deck portion of the coach coaming being constructed.
 

 
A reinforcing strut was glued into this assembly to maintain the correct width.  The next picture shows a finished hatchway installed on a bulkhead and on to one of the supplementary pine members described in an earlier post.
 

 
To support the ends of the planks forward of this framing, another supplementary member was need and later installed.  In the next picture the coamings on the poop deck have been installed and planking has begun starting with the central plank.
 

 
Note that the cap on the  breast beam was cut out to fit the aft section of the coach framing.  The lower part of this coaming is shown installed on the main deck.  These two assemblies had to be carefully aligned so the side walls of the coach would fit neatly – and vertically.  Another view of this is shown in the next picture.
 

 
This picture shows the first version of the pin clamps I used to hold down the glued planks on this model.  I will discuss the improved final version of these in the next part.
 
Ed

Hi friends.
 
Plan amendment.
I now build the model of the midship to Stern.
 
Regards Karl   
 
 
T e i l  5

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 121 – Coach
 
The coach was really just a vestibule at the break of the poop to provide access from the main deck to the entrance of the “mezzanine” level cabin deck below.  It is an interesting and intricate structure.  Its forward end is just large enough to fit an entrance door on each side and that part is supported on a coaming on the main deck.  The aft part merely provides headroom above the main deck level over the head of the staircase that leads down to the cabins.  At the break of the poop is a double-door entrance to the head of the cabin deck staircase.  As mentioned before, the design of all this interior work is speculative.
 
The first step was to make and fit the starboard side panel on the coamings on both decks and to the bulkhead at the break of the poop.  In the first picture that wall has been built up of planks in the usual way and then cut to fit.  In the picture the forward corner post is being glued on.
 

 
In the next picture the studs on the inside of the wall have been installed and the door opening cut out flush with those members using the circular saw for most of the cut length.
 

 
A panel for the entrance door was then cut and fitted to reinforce this very fragile structure and provide a base for the door paneling.  In the next picture the panel is being glued in.
 

 
The outer door jambs and header are being added in the next picture.
 

 
In the next picture the door has been paneled inside and out and the wall installed on the coamings.
 

 
I made the doorway into the cabin itself a bit more ornate, using the same wood and trim style used in the cabins as shown in the next picture.
 

 
In this picture the double doors have been fitted with simple brass hardware.  As with the cabin woodwork, I used black walnut for the doorway.  In the next picture the finished forward bulkhead is in place and aft bulkhead is being glued in.
 

 
The wall on the port side consists only of the stud framing – to provide some visibility to the interior.  In the next picture that framing has been installed and other work is in progress.
 

 
In the picture the overhead rafters have been installed as well as the structure and panels on either side of the doorway.  The exterior end trim pieces are being glued on in the picture.  The last picture shows the freshly painted roof on the finished coach.
 

 
This picture also shows a new entryway on the port bulwark and some modifications that I will explain in the next part.
 
Ed

Hi Ed very nice work, fantastic model, bravissimo.

Great stuff, Ed!

Wow, absolut fantastic carvings. Really nice build

Wow, absolut fantastic carvings. Really nice build

some finishing details I forgot to post, flag making , blocks and cleats. Used deadeyes , small blocks and hearts from Chuck Passaro's Syren Ship Model company, but made many of my own as well.

The framing started and progressed as shown, using a jig to hold the frames in position unitl I was able to add some internal planking for support and stability

I then paused to take on my biggest challenge, which was to carve the figurehead.  I estimate that it took me a total of about 70 hours to complete the four major pieces of the group.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 120 – Main Deck Cabin 2
 
Work on the deck cabin continued.  In the first picture the starboard side has been installed and the forward bulkhead is in the process.
 

 
All the bulkheads were made to fit into the rabbet on the coaming.  In the next picture, both end bulkheads are in place and the framing for the port side is being installed.
 

 
Pine strips with wedges were used along the floor to hold the studs against the coaming at the bottom.  The reinforcing pine batten is still pasted in place.  This side of the structure will be left open for visibility into the framing below.
 
In the next picture the pine batten has been removed and masking tape has been placed on the deck framing to prevent small pieces from dropping through.  These can now be very difficult to extract.  The first of the rounded up roof rafters are being fitted.
 

 
In the next picture these have been installed.  A number of them have been fitted with hanging knees to provide some wind bracing.  This structure had to be quite strong.
 

 
In the next picture the masking tape has been removed and the tops of the end bulkheads trimmed out in readiness for the roof planking.
 

 
The next picture shows the initial strake of 3” x 7” roof planking being aligned against a straightedge and pinned in place.
 

 
There is a strake with a water stop to be fitted outside of this one, but I wanted to paint that first and use the next inner strakes for alignment.  The next picture shows that outer strake being fitted against the two initially installed planks.
 

 
In the next picture the planking has progressed almost to the centerline.
 

 
The last picture shows the finished roof.
 

 
The ends of the planks have been sanded square and notches cut through the water stop for the two transverse skid beams that will cross the roof.  The roof has been coated with acrylic sanding sealer, sanded smooth and painted with the same color blue as the waterways.  The paint is acrylic.
 
The next task is to construct the coach – the entrance to the cabin deck.
 
Ed

Hello , thought I would share this here since its all your fault im doing this , too much inspiration on this web site, thanks...I think. After spending the last month or so off and on completing a stern replacement for a model I had bought at auction years ago that needed a complete rebuild, what was I thinking?, i have decided tentatively that my time might be better spent doing what I really want to do which is a POF ship.This would be a first POF for me and depends on whether I can find the Hahn or other plans available.I had purchased the Mamoli kit, which is very nice, to help refit the ship and thought I could do a little better on the stern and quarters than what's supplied, everything else in the kit is really very good. So my plan so far is to scratch build the hull and use what fittings I can. Recently a friend gave me a large pile of English boxwood (!) so im thinking swiss pear and boxwood mostly, I do also have some gaboon ebony also for trim. Here are some photos of the stern to get started......some where in those boxes of wood is the rest of the ship hopefully.

Thanks Greg.
 
The first pieces of the frames have been cut. I've made all the Floors first, as they are the thickest at 10 (scale) inches thick. If I run out of Pear before the new stock arrives I'll be able to run the remainder of my thicker stuff, including the leftover from the 10", through my Thickness Sander to get the thinner Futtocks and Toptimbers.
 
The Port side of this Cross-section will be fully planked inside and out as was the full model. I'm using simple scarph joints on the planked side - the open side will have Chocks between all the futtocks.
 
Note that these pieces are virtually straight off the scroll saw - there's a bit of finessing to be done yet. Every 2nd frame has a Floor, so only half of them are in these pics. Nothing has been glued in yet :
 

 

 
  Danny

Ok here we go.
 
When cutting a brass rod with a sharp knife a burr is created, I use this both to my advantage and at one point it needs to be removed (otherwise you'll have trouble inserting the bolt in the predrilled hole. Here are the steps involved:
 
1. This is the rod after the last bolt was cut
2. The burr is removed using a small steel ruler
3. A new diagonal burr is created to have the bolt firmly set in the predrilled hole ( I use bot 0,5 mm brass rod and a 0,5 mm steel drill to drill the holes, without the diagonal burr the fit is a bit loose)
4. Cutting off the bolt creates a burr this is the dome of the bolt
 

 
Tools needed (I won't cover the use of Liver of Sulphur which I use to blacken the bolts after they are in place):
 

 
Step 1 This is the rod after the last bolt was cut
 

 
Step 2 The burr is removed using a small steel ruler
 

 
Step 3 A new diagonal burr is created by rolling a sharp blade overt he rod to have the bolt firmly set in the predrilled hole
 

 

 
Step 4 Cutting off the bolt creates a burr this is the dome of the bolt
 

 

 

 
 
I use a brass rod with a small hole in the point to push the bolt into place leaving the dome of the bolt proud to the surface. When the are all done I treat them with liver of sulphur to blacken them.
 

 
The end result (it's hard to capture but each bolt has a nice subtle dome):
 

 

 
Remco
 

Sorry for the long wait, 'life' got in the way....
 
Dave, the wood will darken over time, I like the color of free boxwood too.
Greg, the thought crossed my mind :-)
 
The new pumpwell is installed and the next set of beams too. A bit tricky as they are curved in two ways. 
 

 

 

 
Remco

Hi Anthony,
 
sorry for the late reply.
 
I'am still learning how to develop the cant frames. Last month I got a copy of the Shipbuilders Repsoitory. I hope that I will fid there some new information. In the moment I am working the frame drawings for my second project. After starting the build of my sloop I will also continue the drawing work for the cutter project.

After my last update, I began work on the inboard planking, but realized that I needed more wood from Crown in order to complete it. While waiting for that order, I decided to start on some of the "fun stuff" --  the deck furniture that will be necessary to do the deck planking. To this point, I have made up the two hatches, the base for the galley stack, the small grating at the stern and the companionway. I still need to do the skylight.
 
The gratings were done using Chuck's cambered grating material. The coamings were constructed and then shaped to match the deck camber and the curve of the gratings. The companionway was made of edge glued strip with some interior corner bracing. I used a pencil on one side of each plank.  The hinges are from Chuck's little kit and the handles are made 
from brass rings and eyebolts. I have decided to leave all of the furniture items in natural wood with a coat of Wipe-on Poly. I prefer the look and believe that there will be sufficient contrast with the holly that I am using for the deck planking to provide some interest.
 
Photos of the deck items are attached. Photos of the inboard planking won't be posted until it is completed.
 
Bob

Inboard work underway. I have thinned down the bulkheads and made and added the false deck. This involved a fair amount of effort, but nothing that was particularly difficult or interesting to see.
 
For the bulkhead thinning, I followed Chuck's lead and started with a Dremel with a rough sanding drum, followed by sanding sticks and chisels. I also added filler strips at the bow and stern to aid in planking and to facilitate the drilling of various holes. When I was satisfied that all  was thin enough and fair, I moved on to the false deck.
 
The deck was cut from basswood sheet using the template in the plans. I cut it a little oversize and trimmed to fit. Before gluing it in place, I cut the mast hole, the opening for the skylight and the notches for the stern frames. I also marked out the positions of the hatches and companionway and also marked the position of the "deck beams" in preparation for deck planking. I cut the deck into four pieces to make gluing it in place a little easier.
 
Now, it's on to the interior bulwark planking.
 
Bob

Guys
 
All I can say is that I am careful and slow to a fault.  Its tough to get stuff done this way.   But I do agree everyone should just slow down.  Its what I recommend  a lot of folks to do...
 
Anyway...back to Cheerful.
 
I was able after two attempts to shape the boom crutch and create a procedure for doing so.  The key was starting with a much thicker piece and making the boom crutch a bit over-sized to start.  I cut out the boom crutch on a piece of 1/4" thick boxwood and carefully adjusted for three angles.   When completed it will be just 1/8" wide to match the width of the fashion piece.  Now that the starboard side is complete I can do the other and take pictures at every step.  This is certainly one piece that needs slow and attentive care to the angles involved.  The boon crutch must be turned inboard slightly so the boom can actually sit in it.  This is tough because the fashion piece and the side of the hull goes in the opposite direction!!!   This one piece took me over four hours to produce, shape and paint to a finish I found acceptable.
 
A few careful reference marks and filing...then turn the piece inward and you are good to go!!!   I will have a step by step soon.  You can see the second boom crutch over-sized and ready to shape in one of the photos.  Note the tail is left long so the proper angles can be created while sanding it shorter.
 
Because the boom crutch was painted black it might be hard to see in these photos but essentially the boom crutch must match the angle of the fashion piece when viewed from the side and from astern in two planes while being turned to line up with the path of the boom (or the main mast).  All while hiding the seam between the two pieces...thank God it is supposed to be painted black.  
 

 

 

 

 

Another photos:
 

 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 119 – Main Deck Cabin 1
 
It has been quite a while since my last posting to this log in April.  Work on the book, drafting for the next phases, and taking the 1:96 POB version to a more complete state has filled the intervening time.  I had decided to leave both models at the level of completion covered in Volume I of the book for display at the NRG conference.  Work on the 1:72 framed model has now resumed – I hope in earnest.
 
I started fabrication work on the main deck cabin in August and some of that work is shown below. This large cabin housed the crew, the galley, and perhaps other things.  Boats were stored on skid beams on the roof.  I will be the first to admit that this finicky, small-piece, detail work is not my forte.  I am much more at home with beams, clamps and futtocks, but I will describe the method.  The first picture shows wall panels for the ends of the cabin.
 

 
These were made by edge gluing planks that had the outer edges beveled – to simulate lapped planking.  The pieces were glued up on waxed paper, with the first plank curved against pins to match the round-up of the deck. The panels were run through the thickness sander to remove excess glue on the inside.  They have a first coat of white paint on the outside.  These two have been drilled at the widow openings.  In the next picture these openings are been cut square.
 

 
After marking out, this work was started with a chisel and finished off with a flat file.  The next picture shows the two panels painted and with the window framing and inside structural members installed.
 

 
Lacking specific original detail, I framed the cabin much like a house, but with heavier members – 4x4 studs capped by a long 4x4 plate to support the 4x10 beams with knees that will be added later.  I found examples of this type of construction in later wooden vessels.
 
I had to decide whether to enclose the cabin completely or leave some of it open to reveal the deck framing below.  I decided on the latter course, leaving out internal detail that would further hide the structure below.  The next picture shows work on the long, starboard side wall.
 

 
On all of these wall panels, the siding was painted before installing the trim.  In the picture, door openings were cut out and filled with panels that would eventually be trimmed out with small pieces to simulate doors.  The next picture shows inside framing on this panel.
 

 
The 4x4 studs are left long at the bottom to “bolt” into the base coaming.  The next picture shows the finished wall panel.
 

 
The panel for this wall was made to match the curve of the deck sheer by curving the planks as they were edge glued.  Door jambs, paneling and simple hardware were added to the base panel shown above. All of the windows and doors are fitted with sliding storm panels that could be closed for protection in heavy weather.  Paint was scraped from under these details to ensure good glue joints. 
 
 In the next picture the side wall is clamped in position and the forward end panel is being fitted for size.
 

 
The next picture shows the side wall being glued in place to the coaming.
 

 
The wall is being held in position using pine wedges to force wood strips against the feet of the studs.  The last picture shows the port side wall framing being assembled - studs and plate only at this stage.
 

 
This structure will be left open on the port side.  It will be very fragile until all of the framing is added.  The heavy timber across the bottom is temporary and has been added to support the structure until installed.  It is held to the studs using the paste stick-glue that I use on patterns.
 
To be continued….
 
Ed

indeed I meant every word.  I enjoy the company.
 
As promised here are some step by step for making those pesky boom crutches.  Its important to start with an extra thick piece and cut the crutches out so the tail is extra wide also.
 
You will soon see why.
 
I find it easier to concentrate on one angle at a time.  To get these pieces positioned properly you must get the four angles done separately....one step at a time.
 
Start by filing the fashion piece flush with the cap rail.
 

 
Then viewing the boom crutch from the stern try and establish the correct first angle.  This would be the angle of the fashion piece along the transom as shown below in green.  You do this by filing the bottom of the crutch stem.
 

 
Then turn your attention to the angle when viewing the crutch from the side.  You are trying again to establish the fore/aft angle of the fashion piece as shown below.  This is why you made the crutch so much wider and cut it out of 1/4" thick boxwood.  Sand it to shape with a file.
 

 
Then.....we have to make the boom crutch face the lower mast.   On most models I see they are facing forward or even outboard.  This wouldnt serve its purpose to well.   The reason for making the stem of the crutch wider is so you can turn the crutch to face the mast.  Note how the fore edge of the crutch is flush with the fashion piece...BUT the aft corner hangs off the fashion piece.  Mark the aft side of the boom crutch as shown below and file this bevel into the outboard edge.  The round crutch remains untouched.  You are only beveling the stem.   Then also bevel the inboard edge of the stem to complete it.
 

 

 
Its at this stage where I glued it in position.   Then I filed and sanded it further to shape.  I filled the joint with wood filler and sanded it smooth so the crutch and fashion piece looked like one piece.  Thank God it is going to be painted black.  The last angle we should concern ourselves with is the angle of the top of the crutches when viewed at the side.  This is easier done while it is glued into position.
 
See the angles established in red so the crutches match the sheer or are at least level rather than slanting upwards.  This is important and the bottom of the crutch....inside the crutch should also be addressed and angled downward slightly or at least leveled off if need be.  Think about how the boom would REST in each crutch when establishing the angle inside the crutch.
 

 
When you are done....do it all over again on the other side and try very hard to get a matching pair.  Note how the stems are not very long and the crutches are so very close to the top of the transom.  If you hide the seam well and paint it the results are very convincing.  You will no doubt have many parts added to the waste pile as I did.  These are a bit tricky. 

HELLO MY FRIENDS ,ITS BEEN A LONG TIME ,I GOT A LITTLE BUSY ,SO,NOW I CAN SHARE MY WORK WITH U.
@CHUCK,I'M SORRY FOR THAT I HAD  LOST MY BUILDING PICS DUE TO MY PHONE SYS BROKEN DOWN.SO I HAVE HAD THOSE PICS FOR BUILDING WHICH HAVE  PASTED  BELOW.
I WILL KEEP GOING TO FINISH MY WORK ,THANK U FOR WATCHING.THANK U FOR YOUR DRAWINGS.THANK U MSW.

Count me in, Dan. I'll follow your log with great interest