AnobiumPunctatum
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to rafine in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Back at it after a travel break. I've done the stern frames and the framing of the stern ports. Fitting and placing those sills and lintels was a fussy business, even using the stern drawing as a template, as suggested by Chuck.
Now the fun begins. Time to start the planking.
Bob
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Mirabell61 in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Hi Christian,
I am very much impressed about your chosen scale 1:32. The "HMS Fly" is going to be twice the size of my Pegasus. Your lines and Frame plan are splendid, that will be a fantastic ship
Nils
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Jeronimo in THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
Moin Karl,
I wish you luck with your new project and will follow your build with great interest. Are the new frameing set of Ancre the money worth?
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Mike Y in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thanks for posting detailed photos of the process, that is quite useful to pick up some ideas. Good luck with the build! Looks very neat!
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32.
I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log.
So let's start again
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.
The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
First half of frame 0
Six frames have been installed.
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thanks to all for nice comments .
So after about a month of hard work is the planking of the hull under wales finally done.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Probably the last work before saving Pandora to hibernate - deck in the officers cabin, gluing the main deck beams.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Inner planking is completed now including sweep ports and holes for fixed blocks. Now I am standing before deciding whether to paint inner planking red or left it in its natural state.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
I added the quarter deck transom, lower sill for lights (windows) and helm port.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Hi Daniel,
thank you for compliment .
Finished reinforcement the upper parts of the bulkheads, "transom" and stern post.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Hi Antony,
thank you for your compliment .
I continue with the production of external keel. It is made of individual parts which are glued together.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Drazen in Royal Caroline 1749 by Mile - FINISHED - Scale 1: 35
... further progress...
Dražen
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Archi in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Stuntflyer in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Bob, it was nice meeting you too. I will be following your Cheerful log which is looking great,btw!
While planking the counter and transom, I ran into a few issues that had to be resolved. The back of the stern frames had to be shimmed an additional 1/32" so that the counter planking would sit 1/8" above the square tuck filler piece. This is important because the square tuck is 1/8" thick and should be close to flush with the counter planking before sanding. While planking the transom I noticed that the last 3/16" plank would not cover the remaining stern frames, so I went with a wider 1/4" plank. If I had gone with a 3/16" plank, I would not have been able to achieve the proper curve at the top of the transom. I didn't think of it at the time but I could have used a tick strip to determine the proper width for the four planks.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Looks very good!
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Jaekon Lee in HMS Alert 1777 by Jaekon Lee - 1/64
Main deck planking
Planking of port side main deck has been finished at the breast center line. Though it is hard to see at this moment, treenails were simulated with syringe needle tip. I hope they will be more visible after oil finishing. : )
Windlass spindle, jeer bitt and several standards for them were attached and bolted. Small windlass will be added between the jeer bitt pins.
Cheers, Lee
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from ggrieco in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Archi in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.
The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
First half of frame 0
Six frames have been installed.
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Fam in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from aviaamator in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.
The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
First half of frame 0
Six frames have been installed.
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
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