AnobiumPunctatum

Outdoor pics

 
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And here is my present for you all   :
 

 
Please enjoy and have a great time.
Kind regards and all the best
Doris

I commiserate with you Mij. I decided to discard my first fully framed Swan model after one year because I was not happy with the quality of my earlier work. I rebuilt it in less than half the time and the results were definitely worth it. For some people the finished model is the destination, for others it's the journey that matters most.

Here are some photos of HMS Sussex from the Authors book
 
 

 

 

 

 
This will be an interesting an challenging project for me, and I know I shall have the support from you when I neeed it.
 
mij

Continuation.
 
 
 
Complex, not glued.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Finished planking the bulwarks on the port side after installing the false deck.   The false deck was 1/16" thick.   Then I added some filler strips at the bow and stern where I thought I needed it.  At the bow to beef up where the hawse holes will be.  You can see these strips below which I used 1/16" thick scrap strips for these filler pieces.
 

 
The first plank (3/16" wide and 3/64" thick) was placed right below the gun ports.  The planking below the ports inboard is thick and stands proud of the planking between the ports.  This will be accomplished in two layers much like the wales.   Placing the plank directly below the ports first allows me to get the run of the planking correct as it must follow the bottom of the ports.  Then the remaining planks were added below that and above.  Once completed the second layer of thicker planking was added.  This is the spirketing.  It runs from the deck to the port sills and is thicker....but not by very much.  The original planking draft has the spirketing just 1/2" thicker.  I used 1/32" thick planks for the second layer and actually thinned them down a bit more.  Then I softened the edge where it stands proud along the sills.  I try to soften all of the hard edges like this.  The thickness of the hull where the caprail will be is 5/32" thick after planking.  The cap rail will be 3/16' wide hanging over a bit outboard. 
 
Once I get the planking done on the other side I will install the cap rail.
 

 
 

So very busy life has me out of the workshop at the moment, but I did receive the figurehead carving I commisioned from David Antscherl yesterday - As with any of his work it is simply outstanding to say the least.
Thank you David for accepting the commision.
 
ben

Planking of the port side above the wales is now completed. Both sides have had an initial sanding with 180 grit.
 

 
In preparation for the stern planking the outside stern frames were thinned to 1/16" in thickness. I'm looking forward to getting started on the planking so I can tighten up this area which is still somewhat fragile.
 

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Draft rail and rough tree rail
 
Hi, Nils, Christian, David and Mike. Many thanks for your compliments.
 
Long break and little progress due to busy work and trip. Draft rails on the top timbers and gun ports were joined with glue. Nailing seems to be required to reinforce the joining strength. At the aft hull side, rough tree rails were placed between extended top timbers over the draft rail. Now I'm ready to install deck planking. ;D
 
Cheers, Lee

I had not worked on this one for a while, so I thought I would set up to do the Hull graphics, and realized that I had some small gaps primarily where the Hull and Deck come together and mostly where the planks converge at the Transom. So I made up some filler, using sawdust and titebond 3, I then applied it on the gaps, Sandedup to 600 grit (once dried) and applied another coat of Flat white , Now I can set up for the Hull graphics . Here are the results

Planking
 
As suggested in the instructions I've planked the hull of the cutter without the ribs - they'll go in later as most of them would come off the planking when the hull is removed from the plug. This pic was taken with a couple of runs left to do. I'm using Tamiya masking tape to hold the planks in position while they dry :
 

 
The cutter removed from the plug. It came out very easily :
 

 
Some pics of the outside. The planks need a "rolling" bevel both fore and aft to fit to the stem and transom :
 

 

 

 

 
There was very little excess glue inside the hull. These pics were taken before I started any cleanup :
 

 
You can see a couple of wedges in the bow which I inserted to ensure a tight fit to the plug. Isopropyl alcohol made removal of them easy :
 

 
 Danny

Planking above the wales has proven to be a rather time consuming process as a lot of time was spent getting a good fit between the gun ports. At one point I realized that I had the wrong curve, aft of the last gun port, which required a more upward sweep. Rather than replacing the whole plank I just added a filler piece after the curve was corrected. The filler piece is small and will eventually be covered by the fashion piece.
 
Photo showing one side completed above the wales and the small filler piece at the stern.
 

Really nice progress

They are thinned down....thats their finished thickness.  Check the plans.
 
See this example of a cutter stern from inboard...see how the frames are exposed?  The top is the Cheerful from rogers collection and the bottom is Surly from the museum in Ontario.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Christian thank you.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Really nice progress

Really nice progress

Hey, look at me, I can glue a deck clamp!
 

 
A long story (with a pretty happy ending so far...):  I turned 50 in April and always knew this was going to be a breakout year.  Not to linger on the point but after a series of events I was diagnosed with a rare disease (Mommy always said I was special).  A few specialists and then a 3 week hospital stay I was back dealing with all the yard and house work that backed up.
 
But tonight, tonight I returned to the yard and cut and glued a deck clamp.
 

 
Well, that went so well I completed the keelson:
 

 
Not too much, I know, but a sign of things returning to normal.  Now I have to look at a sprint Triathlon in less than 60 days and a lot of training I am behind on so who knows when the next update will be posted, but make no doubt there will be more.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

I had anchor cables done from previous works and they match. Cable circumference is breadth/24 : 41.84/ 24, C : 2pi r, Diameter:6.64 inches and at scale 1/24 :.28 inch. I am sure that if they had micrometer during that period they would have measured not the circumference with a rope but the diameter.
 
During myfirst professional job, I bought a camera. Up to now Olympus was  always my first choice and I was happy with it. Now I will experiment with a full frame Canon camera. They are very strong with the light sensibility and they have a wider variety of programs for the photos manipulation.

I think you're right, John.   Better now?