AnobiumPunctatum

Thank you for appreciation 
 
This time main anchor.
 
Material: brass for anchor and copper for bolts
 
Soldering: silver paste
 
Blacken finish: Brass Black and potassium polysulfide for copper bolts
 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers
Matt

Thak you Mike for you kind comment I really appreciate that somebody is following my build.

Ok... another episode

This time 3 pound gun carriage. 1 from 12
 
On the 1 page you can see gun carriages which I made long time ago... and I'm glad that all of the previous are hidden under the deck In those days I thought that they look ok. I should slap myself for that
 
So... gun carriage after face lifting

Wood: pear
Metal parts: brass and copper

For rope I used polyester thread.

Thank you
 

 

 

 

 


Cheers
Matt

Thank you Reg


Small update

 

 
Cheers

My idea was to make a plank-on-bulkhead ship model. The bulkheads and false keel were designed with Autocad. The drawings of Chapelle needed a lot of correctios because the small size of the drawing in the book, distortions of the paper, etc...
 
I put the plans in the first post and I will to update them if any change occurs. Please, feel free to use them, if You are interested in this model.
 
Some points:
- The bulkhead and false keel are designed to have a thickness of 5 mm (5 millimeters).
- Under the tramson, there is a rounded stern. I'v seem models wirh plain (square) stern.
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

hi all
been beavering away since the last post.canons almost complete just the training tackle and breeching ropes to make and then we can start putting all the final bits and pieces together.
photos of current progress attached.
 
cheers.......mick

Dave, the compliment is appreciated.  But I look to Remco's and Dan's builds to set the bar that I strive for.
 
Work on the upper deck will proceed from outboard to midline and fore to aft.  I was not emotionally ready to drill holes in the hull for scuppers (and risk damaging the exterior hull) so I decided to build the manger.  This is a closed off area in the bow which could be used for livestock but actually helped contain and dispose of water drawn in with the hawse cables.  In order to make the manger walls, the supports had to be built first.  This means building the fore topsail sheet bitts/bowsprit step assembly.  The bitts extend from the upper deck to the forecastle deck and are angled such that the part of the bitts extending above the forecastle deck is perpendicular to the water line.  This meant building a forecastle deck beam to determine the correct height and angle.  The bitts are notched into both beams.  On my model the port side has the deck planking installed.  Rather than risk damaging the planking, I trimmed the foot of the bitt to fit the remaining space.  The bitts have a sheave above the forecastle deck and a cheek block on the lateral aspect of the bitt.  The top of the cheek block has an ogee shape as do the cheek blocks elsewhere in the build.  I have not put in the sheaves yet.There is a rabbet on the side of the bitt for the manger wall.  On Atalanta, the rabbet does not extend onto the fore end of the bitt so the manger wall extends from the outer face of the bitt rather than the corner.  Some of the ships had the upper end of the bitt shaped into a timber head.  Atalanta was one of these.    The cross piece was rabbeted into the fore side of the bitt.
 

 
The bowsprit chock is made up of two edge rabbeted planks.  You cannot see the rabbet but it makes the assembly stronger.  I lightly penciled the joint to highlight this.  I temporarily glued the chocks together to facilitate cutting rabbets in the bitts and the aft side of the chock.  Although I do not plan on masting Atalanta, I did want the step to be in a reasonably accurate location in case I change my mind later.  To find the location for the step I installed a dummy bowsprit, deriving the angle from the plans.  This was then marked on the step.   They were unglued and the step was cut in using the table saw.  I glued them back together and fine-tuned the meeting edges.  The chock was bolted to the bitt with four bolts and was bolted to both the upper and forecastle beams.  The lower bolts are dummies but the bolts for the forecastle beam will be functional.
 

 
After temporarily installing the bitt assembly I noticed that the deck planking in front of the chocks did not extend far enough back.  These will be removed and remade to the appropriate length.
 

 

 

I have finished the planking around the gunports and below clinker.
Now, am going to do the lower part below the first wale and water line.
 
Drazen
 

Dan,
 
it's a pleasure to follow your log. As allways very nice details

Next pieces are the Stirrups and Horses. I've made these from "tarred" line as they get a lot wetter than the horses on the other yards.
 
The Stirrups have an eye in their lower ends. I made the eyes by passing the line back through itself using a needle threader :
 

 
The upper ends of the stirrups turn three times around the yard. On the real ship they were nailed to the yard, but PVA does the job on the model :
 

 
Finally the Standing Lifts are fitted. These also have a thimble seized into their outer ends :
 

 
I haven't glued the stirrups to the horses yet - I'll do that after the yard has been slung to get them to "hang" neatly.
 
 Danny

All the blocks and fittings are much easier to fit BEFORE the yard is fitted to the mast. I didn't do these in the right sequence for this yard, but I learned my lesson .
 
First things to make and fit are the Sling Cleats. These were made from English Box.
 
I also made the Spritsail Halyard Strop. This has an eye in each end, with a thimble seized into it's "centre" - it's actually a bit off centre with a long and short leg. A lanyard fixes the two eyes around the yard :
 

 

 
Next I made and fitted the Stop Cleats near the ends of the yard. This was the mistake I mentioned earlier - they should have gone on AFTER the other blocks had been fitted as I couldn't slip the block strops over them. It would have been a lot easier if I'd left them until later in the piece.
 
A strop with a thimble seized into it is fitted at the 3rd quarter of each end of the yard for the Jib Guys :
 

 

 
An overall view of the yard to this stage :
 

 
The Clueline blocks are fitted 3 feet from the slings :
 

 
 Danny

Billboard
 
With the standing rigging completed I can now finish off the Billboard. As you can see from the pics below it covers the first three chains on the foremast. The billboard protects these from damage when the anchor is stowed.
 
The first thing to fit is the previously made Bolster :
 

 
Next come two stanchions to which are bolted the planks :
 

 

 
Finally the planks are fitted and "bolted" with 0.7mm headed round head rivets :
 

 
 Danny

más

Hello

This time I'd like to show you capstan.
Nothing fancy unfortunately
 

 

 

 
Best regards,
Matt

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 112 – Main Deck/Forecastle Framing
 
The first picture shows the main deck aft of the main hatch after completion of the central planking and treenailing.
. 

 
Topsail sheet bits are now installed for each mast.  The metal plates over the pump suction pipes will be blackened.  The next picture shows decking completed at the bow.
 

 
The port side in this area will be left unplanked – as shown.  The starboard side was planked so the anchor chain can be shown on this side.  The chain pipes have not been installed, but will come up through the two square cutouts forward of the sheet bits.  The two carrick bits are installed and will support the winch later.
 
At this stage the forecastle could be framed.  The next picture shows the beginning with the setting of the breast beam.
 

 
The beam is supported at the center on the carrick bits and with a bolt into the central Samson post.  In the next picture the setting of the forecastle beams is underway.
 

 
The top of the forecastle decking needs to be flush at the side with the top of the outer planking – and, of course, it must be fair.  Fairness is being checked as each beam is set using the strip of planking as shown.
 
As the forecastle beams were set other structures were added.  In the next picture the mooring bits are being glued in.
 

 
The cathead and capstan carlings have been installed.  The forward beams are still loose, pending fitting of the bowsprit partners.
 
In the next picture those have been installed along with the lodging knees and half hooks astride the dummy bowsprit.
 

 
Except for carlings astride the bowsprit, the forecastle framing is essentially complete.  Copper wire, epoxied bolts have been installed to reinforce the structure.
 
The last picture is a view from directly aft along the deck.
 

 
This shows the copper bolts through the breast beam.  It also shows the upward sheer and the fairness of the forecastle deck.
 
Ed

Thanks for the dimensions. I don't use a scale ruler but a conversion table to quickly get from feet/inch to mm
 
Work continued on the bowsprit step. To accurately determine the step (square hole) in the chock (the vertical plank between the bitts) I had to make the bowsprit itself too. I find it very satisfying to make a mast just with hand tools, it takes time but the result is very accurate. 
 
While cutting the step the rabbet between the two planks very nicely
 

 
The bowsprit was cut from square to octagonal to round using a hand plane, well honed chisels and sandpaper. 
 

 
The base going from round to square
 

 
And the tip
 

 
The step is also rebated into the upright bitts
 

 

 

 
Remco
 
 

Continuation
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Fore upper deck
 
Hi, all friends. I'm very happy with your kind words and comments.
 
Still I can not decide the method and material for bolting on hull planking, I moved to upper deck work as below. I'm not sure l can keep the carlings as well aligned with the progress of work.
 
Regards. Lee

Thanks everyone for the likes.  Not much time for the model over the last few weeks but I was finally able to finish the gudgeons.  There were made in a similar manner to the pintles, two pre-drilled brass straps connected by brass bar which was then drilled for the pin and filed to shape.  Some of the detail is obscured by the blackening.  I have not decided yet when to install the gudgeons but will not ship the rudder until much further along into the build.  
 

 

 
Since I was playing around with metal I decided to make the hook and eye assembly for the riding bitts.  The crosspiece is not bolted to the standards.  It is held in position with a hook and eye attached to the medial side of the two standards. These are made from 1" thick brass which was filed to shape.  The eyes and the bolts are made from brass wire.  Sorry for the dust in the picture.  
 

 

Hello Isalbert,
 
I don't know exactly what you want to see so I posted three pictures, hope that helps.
Alexandru

fortunately I havent had time to finish those last five strakes so I just took some pictures.
 
Here is a staight plank as if I were going to place it on the hull.  It could be at the bow or at the stern.   Most beginners would try to force this into place and the top edge of the plank would lift off the hull and not sit flush against the bulkheads.  Some fight with it using pins and clamps and it gets messy.   Holding it without bending like shown reveals the gap .  Note the widest point of that gap.
 

 
Mark this location as the center of the gradual curve you will need.
 
 
In the next picture,  after bending,    you can see how nice it fits and how it is flush against the bulkheads.  No forcing needed.  Its a perfect fit.    Note the dot I marked on the plank for the apex of the curve or the widest part of the gap..You could use the compass method or the tape method to find the exact curve,  but I prefer to eyeball it like this.   Visually its easy to see the curve after a little practice.   I always over bend slightly.
 

 
Now all I have to do is bevel it a bit and darken the seem as I did in the video and glue it on.

Good to know you're still alive and kicking, Gary! Hopefully you'll soon get serious model making time back again. In the meantime, take care.

Hi Mark.
Sorry to take so long in getting back to your question, and work is keeping me away from home.  As far as the metal pins for holding the trucks in place, came from the scrap bin along with the little eyelets that hold the capsquare in place. They were modifie to look more like the item's and then given a coat of black paint I believe. Some of the parts came from places like scale hardware and  model expo, and even hobby lobby.  The good thing about getting small parts like this if you can, save's one time to put in to other things, which of course seems that even that little bit of time is spent making a living. Enjoy the photos sir, maybe one day I will some time to work on her. In the first photo, slightly to the bottom left, you can see the spike that hold the trucks in place and in the second photo to the right of the capsquare is the small eyelets and the u shape round copper that is used to hold the capsquare in place. When the small eyelet is installed a small pin is inserted to keep the capsquare locked in place.
Gary

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 111 – Main Deck
 
For a change of pace from the cabin deck paneling, I started work on the main deck.  In the first picture, the external, cabin deck forward bulkhead has been constructed followed by the coaming and decking inside the cabin deck entry structure.
 

 
To proceed with the central decking and the hatchway coamings, the mast partners had to be first roughed in.  The next picture shows the partners for the main mast being fit.
 

 
The mast is a dummy – a ½" dowel fitted with a tenon on the mast step in the hold.  The rake is being set with the rule at rail height based on marks made along the top strake of bulwark planking.  This will all be refined later when the final masts are fitted with chocks and mast coats.
 
In the next picture, the main hatch coaming is being assembled forward of the main partners.
 

 
The cross-deck head ledges hold the fore and aft coamings down and together with angled dovetails.  The excess ends will be sanded off after the coaming is glued together.  It will then be permanently fixed to the deck framing.  The term coaming has two meanings: the overall assembly and the fore and aft pieces.
 
In the next picture, the two bilge pump suction pipes have been connected to their lower parts and framed in place aft of the main mast partners.
 

 
The next picture shows central planking being installed starting at the mizzenmast.
 

 
The next picture – from the opposite (port) side - shows planking completed forward to the main hatch.
 

 
The mast openings will be enlarged later.  There is a scuttle in the deck aft of the pipes to permit access to the main water tank manway below.
 
Forward of the main hatch is the large deck cabin.  Its coaming is shown fitted and pinned into place in the last picture.
 

 
The foremast partners and then the chain pipe openings are just forward of the cabin.  All deck structures were based on coamings similar to the hatch coamings.  These could be effectively caulked and sealed to keep water out of the cargo decks below.  The main deck cabin housed the crew and the galley.
 
Ed

Port side hull and square tuck planking
 
Cheers, Lee

Finally all the frames are added, not perfect but its done. Ready for the beams and stern to be added, not sure how to go about making the stern yet as i will make it out of something harder than lime.


(for some reason these images are never uploaded in high quality)

Next time on POB La Belle Poule!
Beams added
Small deck added
Starting LED wiring!