AnobiumPunctatum

Very interesting solution for keeping your fingers away from the blade.
Did you made this by yoursel?

Yesterday I experimented a little bit with 3D views of my line drawings. The result is not a real 3D model but very helpful for checking the reconstruction. The two pictures are only an impression, because on the PC I can rotate the model and have a closer look to the details.
 

 

Yesterday I experimented a little bit with 3D views of my line drawings. The result is not a real 3D model but very helpful for checking the reconstruction. The two pictures are only an impression, because on the PC I can rotate the model and have a closer look to the details.
 

 

Yesterday I experimented a little bit with 3D views of my line drawings. The result is not a real 3D model but very helpful for checking the reconstruction. The two pictures are only an impression, because on the PC I can rotate the model and have a closer look to the details.
 

 

Tip - Joining Clamp
 
In this small scale model, the spacing between frames is very narrow, sometimes less than 1mm, holding parts after gluing is somewhat difficult. For this, I made special clamping tool and found that it is quite useful and handy, so I introduce it to all. As can be seen at last pic, it can be made easily with paper clip and small wood block and wedge without special tools.
 
Cheers

Hello Christian.
Not are you very skilled with wood But you are also skilled with CAD drawing.
This is turning out to be a very interesting project. The resurch takes a long time and then putting that into CAD then constructing the model. WOW
Been following this from the start and it gets more and more interesting the further you progress.
 
Regards Antony.

Yesterday I experimented a little bit with 3D views of my line drawings. The result is not a real 3D model but very helpful for checking the reconstruction. The two pictures are only an impression, because on the PC I can rotate the model and have a closer look to the details.
 

 

Yesterday I experimented a little bit with 3D views of my line drawings. The result is not a real 3D model but very helpful for checking the reconstruction. The two pictures are only an impression, because on the PC I can rotate the model and have a closer look to the details.
 

 

My stylised frame design is nearly finshed.
 
As written in JK Lees build log I will now try to design a possible framing for this cutter.
 
All cutter drawings which I know show only double frames.
The drawing of Cheerful 1806 and Racer 1809 show double frames with a spacing on both sides.
The drawing of Speedy 1818 shows normal double frames.
 
So I think that also the two cutters of the Rattlesnake class will also have only double frames.
 
First source for the dimensions of the frame timbers is Steel "The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture, 1805":

(Thanks Druxey for the values)
 
Steel gives a Room and Space of 2ft 2in. The original drawing of Alert only show a Room and Space of 2ft 0in. My first try with this dimensions show that the spacing between the double frames is very small (3.75in).
 
Goodwin gives in his book "The construction and fitting of Sailing Man of War" a factor to calculate the sided dimensions of the frames. If I calculate the sided values with the keel width of 13in, which Steel gives in his book, I get the values of the above table.

 
The original drawing shows only a designed keel width of 10in. So I calculated the sided dimensions of the framing again.
With these values I get a spacing of 8,42in, which is perhaps a little much.
 
edit: I got the infos I searched. Thanks very much.

Hey AP,
 
I don't have a copy of SR, but I can recommend Allan Yeslinskys book available from Seawatch that has both Steel and SR comparison data.
In some places you will find data missing in either or even both, and many times there are differences but it is still the best reference work that I have that includes both sets of data.
 
Ben

Working close to the collet improves precision due to less run-out and side-play, which are minimal on a watchmaker's lathe already ...
 
*******
 
Completing the capstan
Again the guiding rollers are a simple turning job. The shapes were produced with a free-turning graver and by rotary milling in the dividing head.
 

Using a worm-driven dividing head to round-mill the head of the chain-rollers
 

Using a worm-driven dividing head to round-mill the head of the chain-rollers
 
In the meantime various etched parts had been produced, including the base plate made up of two different superimposed parts and minuscule pawls. Also a chain separator from 0.3 mm copper wire rolled flat was produced. The various parts were soldered together.
 

The etched parts for the spills
 

The completed capstan (lower left corner, the grid of the cutting mat is 10 mm x 10 mm)
 
To be continued ...

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 101 – Planking and Wales
 
To conveniently work on the planking below the channels, the hull was inverted as shown in the first picture
 

 
The toptimbers are no longer as vulnerable with the planking installed up to the top so there is minimal risk of damage.  I still use carpet padding as a precaution and have tied the hull down to keep from pushing it off the bench.
 
The next picture shows some of the planking installed at the bow.
 

 
The hull is marked with pencil lines to show the extent of the wale and the load waterline.  I have highlighted the lower edge of the wale in red and the lwl in blue.
 
The wale is 6” thick and there are roughly 20 strakes of 6” wide planks from top to bottom.  The top strake transitions from the 4” common  to the 6” wale planking two strakes below the lower channels.  That break in thickness can be seen in these pictures.  The next picture is a close-up of the “hooding ends.”
 

 
The wale planks are pared down to match the depth of the rabbet.  The treenails are hard bamboo (old garden stakes) – very hard and very dark.  The grain flecks and the color variation in the maple planks is a bit distracting, but all of this planking will be painted.
 
The planking around the stern was done concurrently with that shown above. In the next picture the second strake below the planksheer rail has been curved and is clamped to dry.
 

 
Each of these is boiled for over an hour, clamped as shown below and left overnight to dry.  It can then be glued with a similar clamping arrangement.  This is really a one-step-per-day process.
 
The last picture shows the three strakes below the rail – levelled off but not yet finish sanded.
 

 
 
The next strake will be the transition strake to the wale thickness.  There may be one more circumferential strake  - at the "knuckle" - but the planks below will butt into the last of these.  The ends of the the planks below will bolt into the supporting chocks between the stern timbers.  The chock around the helm port has not yet been fitted.
 
Space is left for the main rail.   The area between this and the lower rail will be decorated with a bas-relief eagle and some s-curved vines.  The words “Young America” then “New York” will be lettered below the lower rail on these lower three planks..
 
  
Ed

My stylised frame design is nearly finshed.
 
As written in JK Lees build log I will now try to design a possible framing for this cutter.
 
All cutter drawings which I know show only double frames.
The drawing of Cheerful 1806 and Racer 1809 show double frames with a spacing on both sides.
The drawing of Speedy 1818 shows normal double frames.
 
So I think that also the two cutters of the Rattlesnake class will also have only double frames.
 
First source for the dimensions of the frame timbers is Steel "The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture, 1805":

(Thanks Druxey for the values)
 
Steel gives a Room and Space of 2ft 2in. The original drawing of Alert only show a Room and Space of 2ft 0in. My first try with this dimensions show that the spacing between the double frames is very small (3.75in).
 
Goodwin gives in his book "The construction and fitting of Sailing Man of War" a factor to calculate the sided dimensions of the frames. If I calculate the sided values with the keel width of 13in, which Steel gives in his book, I get the values of the above table.

 
The original drawing shows only a designed keel width of 10in. So I calculated the sided dimensions of the framing again.
With these values I get a spacing of 8,42in, which is perhaps a little much.
 
edit: I got the infos I searched. Thanks very much.

My stylised frame design is nearly finshed.
 
As written in JK Lees build log I will now try to design a possible framing for this cutter.
 
All cutter drawings which I know show only double frames.
The drawing of Cheerful 1806 and Racer 1809 show double frames with a spacing on both sides.
The drawing of Speedy 1818 shows normal double frames.
 
So I think that also the two cutters of the Rattlesnake class will also have only double frames.
 
First source for the dimensions of the frame timbers is Steel "The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture, 1805":

(Thanks Druxey for the values)
 
Steel gives a Room and Space of 2ft 2in. The original drawing of Alert only show a Room and Space of 2ft 0in. My first try with this dimensions show that the spacing between the double frames is very small (3.75in).
 
Goodwin gives in his book "The construction and fitting of Sailing Man of War" a factor to calculate the sided dimensions of the frames. If I calculate the sided values with the keel width of 13in, which Steel gives in his book, I get the values of the above table.

 
The original drawing shows only a designed keel width of 10in. So I calculated the sided dimensions of the framing again.
With these values I get a spacing of 8,42in, which is perhaps a little much.
 
edit: I got the infos I searched. Thanks very much.

My stylised frame design is nearly finshed.
 
As written in JK Lees build log I will now try to design a possible framing for this cutter.
 
All cutter drawings which I know show only double frames.
The drawing of Cheerful 1806 and Racer 1809 show double frames with a spacing on both sides.
The drawing of Speedy 1818 shows normal double frames.
 
So I think that also the two cutters of the Rattlesnake class will also have only double frames.
 
First source for the dimensions of the frame timbers is Steel "The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture, 1805":

(Thanks Druxey for the values)
 
Steel gives a Room and Space of 2ft 2in. The original drawing of Alert only show a Room and Space of 2ft 0in. My first try with this dimensions show that the spacing between the double frames is very small (3.75in).
 
Goodwin gives in his book "The construction and fitting of Sailing Man of War" a factor to calculate the sided dimensions of the frames. If I calculate the sided values with the keel width of 13in, which Steel gives in his book, I get the values of the above table.

 
The original drawing shows only a designed keel width of 10in. So I calculated the sided dimensions of the framing again.
With these values I get a spacing of 8,42in, which is perhaps a little much.
 
edit: I got the infos I searched. Thanks very much.

Hit a big milestone...  framing is complete and ready for planking.  Well, one minor tweak to the transoms to get smooth run to the counter but that's not going to be a stopper.
 
Right now, I'm having second thoughts about the bulk of the planking in Swiss Pear and am considering cherry.   I'll ponder a bit more.....
 

Deadlights.
 
After staring and thinking... I decided deadlights next.  Not the frames yet but the black background part.   Being a glutton for punishment, I decided to use ebony since I love the look of this wood.  Which begat more contemplation because that stuff is a bit hard to work with.  I think I found an adequate solution.
 
Being fond of quick prototyping in many areas, I made up some deadlights from basswood.  Gave it some thought and decided to make some ebony veneer.  I tried to rip some down to 1/64" (.35mm)....by 1" (25mm) with the thin side coming off the 1" thick billet.  Don't try it.   I got it down to 1/32" (.7mm) before things starting exploding across the shop.  Might have something to do with the blade but I wasn't going to kill a new Thurston blade on an experiment.    Anyway... now I have to clean up fragments everywhere.    I was using the table saw for this.
 
I took the 1/32" inch thick piece that survived and ran it through the thickness sander to get it where I wanted it, glued the prototype deadlights to it and cut them out with the scroll saw.  A bit of sanding and they fit about right.  The pics show a gap but that will be covered by the window framing.  Did I mention I hate macros...   To the naked eye (or even with glasses on) it looks pretty good. I don't feel anything out of place running my fingers around everything, so that's good also.  
 
I'll re-fillet the glue joints on the framing and cut them down to shape.  Also need to get the middle area of the counter fixed up with some wood for the landing of the counter plank ends at the rudder and stern post.  
 
First pic of the basswood and veneer laminated together for the deadlights.  Second one is the installation and..hmm... wet glue.      What the hey.. I'm having fun it's turning out well in my opinion.  I past the point where Version 1.0 met it's end (the stern area) so I'll be carrying on.

Many thanks Nils for your compliment.
 
Small update today. Lower thick stuffs are added with steam bent long strakes. She becomes stronger day by day.

Lee,
 
as I've written earlier I think that the frames design in the AotS is wrong. The shifted top timbers are only a fix for this design. Also the positions of the gun ports don't match the position of the original drawing.
I could only find double frames for cutters. If I read Allans comment he confirmed what I think.
There exist no contemporary drawing of the framing design for the Rattlesnake class. I've drawn a simplified framing but will now try to make a new reconstruction of the framing to check if my ideas are possible.

Keelson and limber strake
 
Small update by joining keelson and limber strake but, the structure became a little stronger one.

The Square tuck....Thank goodness this isnt a real POF project.  Here is the simplified version.
 
The photo below shows the first beam added which to create teh base for the stern post.  It runs down the center of the square tuck so I can glue the stern post on later.  It is 1/8" thick and 7/32" wide.  The same width as the stern post
 
The same photo below shows the second timber....how I took a wider piece that was 1/8" thick.  I shaped it so the seam between the lower counter and this timber was very tight.   Then I measured and marked it so it would be 1/8" wide as well.  This will of course be repeated on the other side once it is planked.
 

 
The finished timber below.
 

 
Then it was time to create the side piece which will finish the square tuck frame....this was the hardest piece but not that difficult at all.   I just took a larger 1/8" thick piece of boxwood and shaped it to fit tightly against the two timbers I just just completed.  I tried to get real tight seams. At the same time,  it hangs off the side of the hull.  Then I traced the shape of the hull against the back of this piece.
 

 
Heres what the tracing looks like.  The piece was cut to shape on the scroll saw.
 

 
Then,  this piece was temporarily glued back in position with just a small dot of CA.   This was done because it will need to be removed after it is faired with the hull planking.  See below.  And as done before,  I drew another line to establish a 1/8" wide finished timber.  This was cut out and glued into position finishing the frame for the square tuck on this side of the hull.
 

 
Here is what it looks like.
 

 

 
Finally....it was planked inside with vertical planks the same width as the hull planking.  Tarred seams were simulated.   I was very careful to get very tight seams.   In actual practice these planks would be normal thickness and the ends resting in a rabbet along the edges of the square tuck frame.
 
In my case though,  I just faked it using planking that was actually 1/8" thick which is the same thickness as the frame.   It all worked out in the end.  I am quite pleased with the results as this is normally a really tough detail to model convincingly.   Now to touch up the red paint on the counter or maybe its just best to wait till the planking is all done.
 

 

 

 
I can now start planking the last belt  on the starboard side.

Nice fix, Jürgen

Tony,
 
there is not really a problem. I buy my timber at a supplier in Germany, who  cuts it to every size with a precision of 1/10mm. I think that this is precise enough for a scratch build model. http://www.modellbau-holzleisten.de/

Jan
 
The square tuck frame should be rabbeted so the hull planking and square tuck planking has the the butt ends protected from the elements.   The lower counter planking has its butt ends protected by the fashion pieces.  The strip between the lower counter and the square tuck is just a fancy molding strip and cosmetic.
 
I have about 40 pictures of this model from every conceivable angle.  Just havent had the time to reduce them so I can post them.
 
But if you want to see any particular area let me know and I will reduce and post those....If you click on the picture above in that post it gets really big...you can see that detail..The fancy molding strip is placed too low however on that model in my opinion.  The frame for the square tuck needs to be a consistent width all of the way around to look good.  Thats the hard part but in a few steps it can be done without incident.
 
Chuck

I will do that on the next update.....
 
Christian...It is the square tuck that you are seeing.  Its actually curved slightly to follow the counter.   So you see it as a triangle on the plan.  Thats what I am going to start next.  Shouldnt be long before another update with that.  See what it looks like on the Rogers Collection cutter model.
 

 
Chuck