AnobiumPunctatum

Hi everyone,
 
Thanks again for the comments and likes. Since the last update I have installed the forecastle and quarterdeck beams and hatch carlings, coamings and ladders. The waterways were then installed along with the beam rabbets for the fore and aft planking. Finally I completed the bulwark planking. I am looking forward to building the windlass and capstan next.






Until next time,
Ian
 
 

Congratulation for finishing this beautyful model.

Congratulation for finishing this beautyful model.

Congratulation for finishing this beautyful model.

Congratulation for finishing this beautyful model.

Disassembled the model today for the first time in a very long time, to check that I haven't done anything to stop me being able to get at the bolts and that the main hull outfit assembly (which includes deck beams, support pillars, inner hull longitudinals, gangway, and now thalmian seating...) is still removable.
It takes me just over half an hour to assemble (there are 82 bolts to secure in total...) and I was quite pleased with how easily the main hull outfit assemble fitted into place with no flexing at all and all the bolts perfectly lined up with their holes.
I'll have to do it again to fit the mast steps (I know, I could have done that before I put the deck in...) and I'm hoping it will make it easier to get at everything when I finally come to coating the wood with something.
 

Thank you guys
 
Moving along...
 
Next up I made the false rails.  These are pretty easy to make.  Just sand them a bit to prep for painting.   Test the fit on top of the main rail.  There is a small circle or disc laser cut on the veneer sheet you will get.   That is the tiny button for the scroll on the false rail.  Paint it all black (or not) and add the freeze.     Glue it into position.   
 
You can paint it black or keep it natural.  That is up to you.  There are many color combinations seen on contemporary models.  You may also opt NOT to use the frieze here and just paint it all black.   Its all about what you like best.
 

Then it was time to assemble and add the aft seats.  Those are the pair of seats in the corners between the false rail and hull.  These can be tricky and I suspect everyone will have their own best way to make and position these.  Here is what I did.
 
I assembled them first and then painted them black before gluing them into position....BUT
 
It was important to first test the fit of the top of these seats on the model so I could finalize its shape.   Once I knew it would fit between the false rail and hull,  I could tell how long to make the front face of the seat.  These parts are laser cut but you will no doubt have to tweak them to fit your model.   Then I glue the front face on the seat leaving the top with an ever so slight overhang.   Note the filed out area where the molding would be and the main rail.  This was all filed into the front face while off the model.  I kept testing and tweaking for a good fit.  Then I painted them black and glued them into position.  I was careful to line them up so they looked even port and starboard.   Dry fit both in position before gluing.  
 
 


 
ALL THAT REMAINS....is to do the bumpkins at this point and the model is all done.  At least I think it will be, always feels like I am forgetting something.   Anyway...by tomorrow it should all be completed.  Any questions???
 
 

Time for us scratch builders to retire....

No dont do that!!!   Its the fantastic scratch work I see done by folks like yourself that inspires me to kick it up a notch.   The Winnie project would not exist had it not been for all those inspiring scratch projects.
 
Cheers!!!
 
 

here is the step by step for making the cathead supports.  These pieces are among the most difficult to make for any ship model.   This method may seem a bit unorthodox....but bear with me here and I will explain as best I can.  Ask a lot of questions!!!
 
The laser cut parts will get you only so far...about 80% of the way.   You will need to shape these and tweak them to get a really good fit.  But its leaps and bounds better than anything you will find on a kit as long as you take your time and dont rush through it.  Read the instructions several times.
 
Step one...A laser cut template from 1/32" thick wood is provided.  Temporarily glue this in position with just a few drops of glue or rubber cement.  Mark the side where you will have to remove the molding so your support will fit between them.  Cut the molding free with some sharp chisels.  NOTE....cut inside your lines and make the gaps smaller...dont make them too large.  You can always make them larger later as you test fit each piece.
 
The template is longer than you will need on both ends so you can cut it to fit your model so it fits.  Look at it from many angles to see if the curve is graceful and it runs well into the middle rail where it connects.  There should be a pleasing continuity from the template onto the middle rail.
 

Step 2...assemble the cathead support....NOTE, the entire span will be made of two lengths.  This portion of the support is just half and is directly under the cathead.  
 
There are several layers...the bottom is the longest.  It is 1/4" thick cedar.   On top of this glue two more shorter  layers of 1/4" thick cedar.  Then to finish the assembly...glue on the a final piece which is 5/32" thick boxwood.  It is super important to make sure you use the boxwood layer as the top layer.  This layer will show and its the tip or outboard end of the cathead support.  Four layers in total.  I said it was gonna get weird.   But just stick with me here.
 
There are templates in paper for this piece.   See them in the photo.  

Step 3....Glue the template onto the piece so it all fits nicely.  There is plenty of room.  I glued it on the outside only.  Use this as a guide to shape this piece.   Remove the heavy stuff with a sharp blade until you get close to the template and sand the rest.  This will get you 80% of the way to a good fit.

After shaping....below.  Dont over sand.  Just smooth out the sides.  Dont try and remove all the char as it doesnt matter.  You just want to have a smooth surface to add the outside layers in the next step.

Step 4....There are laser cut outside layers that are super thin.   These come in two pieces.  They are glued on both sides.  Do this neatly and get a nice clean joint between the two sections.  You may want to lightly sand the char from where the joint will be between these two pieces so it wont show when its all done.
 

It will look like this.   A few things to note...
 
Before gluing them on each side I rounded the edges of the support or chamfered them.   Then add the thin outer layers.   Sand them flush on all edges although NOT on the front fancy side where the friezes will go.  Similar to the cheeks we made you want to leave the edges standing proud on the front side to form a slight lip. see below.  I left it a little more pronounced until after the friezes are added and its all cleaned up.  
 
Also note the second length which will connect to it and the middle rail.   This is laser cut for you and also gets thin outside layers.  This is important because these two pieces will join together like the cheeks did with the hair brackets.  You will need to get a nce joint between them which wont be seen when these are glued together.

Step 5...this forward length is laser cut but needs shaping.  It has one curve cut into it but you need to shape the other side.  You need to sand the curve that fits against the hull.  Just like the cheeks above and below the hawse holes.   You have done this before.  See below.
 
Also note the angled forward end which needs to be sanded into it.  This end is what attaches to the middle rail.   I rounded off or chamfered the outside edges before adding the two thin layers.  All of these parts are cut extra long so you can shape and tweak to fit you model.   This is where is gets interesting.... 

You should have both halves at this point completed.....like this.   At least roughly done so we can test and tweak them on the model.  There are lots of angles here.

 
Step 6A....This is just a dry fit of both lengths trying to get a tight seem between both lengths.   First I added the cathead support...tI tweaked the top edge so it was at the proper angle to fit against the bottom of the cathead.   You will no doubt have to do this.  You will also have to tweak the shape that fits against the hull.  Dont sand away too much.  Do a little at a time and keep testing until it fits nicely and follows the path of your template.   Then temporarily glue it in position with a drop or two of glue.  
 
Step 6B....Do the same tweaking of the forward half so it sits flush against the hull.  But you also need to create a nice tight joint between the two halves so it looks seamless.   The angled forward end should fit snug against the middle rail.
 
Keep working both lengths until you get a pretty good fit....below.  See how it fits between the molding on the hull?
 
 
 

Step 7...now you can do some last minute tweaks and glue it all on the model.   I added the friezes after the both lengths were glued on the model.   I put the friezes on in two lengths.  It was just easier this way.   Then I sanded the edges of those outside layers a bit with 600 grit paper so the the beaded edge wasnt standing too proud of the friezes.  Overall I just did some touch up work.   I think I still need some more but this is about it as far as the method is concerned.  

There is NO easy way to create these.  This is not a plastic kit model.  But this technique can be adopted for scratch building.  This is indeed how I make these parts when I do a scratch built model.  I just translated it to laser cut parts.   Having said this,   because everyones models will be slightly different you will need to go slow and shape them for a best final fit.
 
And as always....ask a lot of questions.
 



 

Congratulations for finishing this wonderful model, Toni

Congratulations for finishing this wonderful model, Toni

Fantastic figurehead, Johann

Swallow is finished, other than a few touch-ups which will be addressed after I mount her.  My plan is to duplicate the base from RMG as much as possible.  It will probably take me a few weeks to source the wood and draw up the plans.




  

It's good to hear.

Good news, I got the rhino trial working on my new computer. I've got 90 days to come up with useable plans.

Here is the QD transom and aft framing completed for the moment.
 

Hi Kris,
 
sorry to hear all this. If you need help to use your drawings in another more common format, I can help you converting your Rhino files.

Hi Kris,
 
sorry to hear all this. If you need help to use your drawings in another more common format, I can help you converting your Rhino files.

Greetings all,
 
Some progress to report. I installed the starboard wale using Castello. Now that I’ve completed the hull planking I’ve discovered how bendable and easy to work with Holly is. I should have used that as David’s instructions suggested. 

 

Hull planking was straightforward except I ended up with two drop planks at the bow under the wale. Even though I had lined off the entire hill I let the bow planks use up too much room. I think it looks ok.

The challenge with the fashion piece is to achieve a flush continuum with the hull planking. Don’t ask me how I know that. 😳

I covered the area between the fashion piece, stem and wale with scotch tape then traced the boundaries with a pencil. I removed the tape and laid 6.3 mm planks on the sticky side then sandwiched the whole thing in a layer of tape. That formed a very stable structure that allowed my to cut and sand the assembly to the outline then disable and install each plank one at a time. This required very little fitting.
 
I moulded the tuck rail using 5mm Castello and a micro shaper I had lying around.


Til next time.
Ian
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The next items were the pumps.  The band on the top of the pump is self-adhesive copper foil, typically used in making stain glass windows.  Looks like I need to clean out the inside of the pump!


The original model of Swallow shows a carved swallow on the stern.  The carving looks better in person than it appears in these pictures.  Making the masts is next.

I realize it has been a long time since this build log has been updated.  Between finishing the Echo cross-section and the garden, there has been very little time for her.  I have finally made some progress.  The channels, deadeyes and chainplates have been installed.  The angles for the chainplates was determined by stepping a false lower mast and running a line from the top to the chains.  The deadeyes are made from English boxwood.  I have not decided whether I like the color contrast of the channel moldings.  These were made from apple.  I tried a different approach on the preventer plate.  Previously, I would cut the plate from sheet brass, drill the holes and score the middle of the plate.  This time, I used 24-gauge square copper wire.  I set up a jig with two brads, wrapped the wire around the brads, pinching at their bases and silver soldered the ends and center sections together.  Heating the plate during the soldering process had the benefit of softening the metal so it could be bent over the middle link.  


Other details have been added.  Preventer eyebolts have been installed, as well as eyebolts along the two masts.  Only the foremost port was fitted with a cover.  This was fitted so it would hinge on its fore side.  The contemporary model shows six exposed timberheads, five in the bow area and one aft.  The plan only shows three in the bow and none aft.  I followed the plan.  Next up will be rigging the guns.

A small Speedwell update. The lower ratlines have been installed as well as the euphroe tackle and crowsfeet. On many models I see they appear oversize. At 1/4" scale though we should be able to approximate the 1" ratline and 3/4" crowsfeet diameters. For the ratlines I use Guterman polyester Mara 120 thread (dark brown). For the crowsfeet I used 6/0 Uni-Thread, dark brown. I tried 6-0 silk for this but it just kept fraying (such is the nature of silk). I must admit that making the euphroes with their numerous no. 78 drilled holes (there are nine in the main euphroe), setting up the euphroe tackle and rigging the crowsfeet was an exercise in patience (and frustration). I was so pleased with my first attempt until I realized that I had reverse rigged one hole and had to redo the whole thing.  Onward and upward (literally)!
 

You are right sir! I guess I was having a bad math day when I started this..  I am so glad you pointed this out before I had progressed very far..
 
Almost 7% is really not that small at these scales.
 
Now I know why I kept  coming up with small differences between my enlarged plans and the NMM plans..
I was also thinking the MS plans had some errors that they did not have.
 
This will make an important difference when I tackle the carvings, as the NMM drawings are going to to be my main source for that.  
 
I'm going to give this some further thought, and I may just start over..  Doing so will help me overcome some other issues I have discovered as I build..

Welcome back, I will follow your log with interest.