AnobiumPunctatum

The schedule was suspended due to heavy work for more than a week. I spent a day installing these components today. These may not seem like much, but with fixed pins and rivets, precise positioning can be time-consuming.
 

 
 
 

Hi all,
 
Thanks for all the likes. I have planked the deck and fitted bulwark planking and am now ready to turn it over to plank the hull. Nothing remarkable about these last steps. I am not certain that the holly decking fore and aft can remain but I'll decide what to do once I've finished the hull planking.
 
Ian
 

 

Yes it is big, but fully rigged a really nice model in that scale. 

Thanks HH but it would have looked a little better had they have been slightly smaller.  I'm trying to source some cobalt drills for the job for future nailing.
 
So she's faired 👍  This is such a milestone for me as I always thought that when I began this build, if I could get this far I can definitely finish her. 
It took a while as a decided to fair her completely by hand without using any power tools.  I just couldn't take the risk of messing this up and let's be honest how often does a builder actually get to do this job.
 
I did have a one low frame which was the same on both sides.  I had obviously made this frame slightly incorrectly which then meant that I chased this low point up about the next 7 or 8 frames to pull her fair.  The dogs legs are also now a bit slender but not to the point of weakness.  Next time I'll leave more on everything so that I have more to play with.
 
I'm so happy with the way this little ships frame has turned out and its better than I hoped for.  I also hope that some of the fantastic kit builders on MSW who's builds I follow who often talk about how they would like to try scratch building see that if I can do this then so can they.
 
So the next job is to mark out the top timbers and cut them to length which will make her look even better.  A few pictures below - Cheers Mark
 
 

Thanks 👍
 
 Thanks druxey - It was harder than I thought it would be in all honesty!  For some reason in my own mind I thought that it would be easier planking the inside of a the hull compared to the outside.  I was very wrong.
 
Hi HH - I think we all have different levels of skill but when you know you've not done your best.....well I guess we start again.
 
So I've now completed the nailing as described above.  The only change that I made was to make the nails 0.5mm instead of 0.3mm.  I had to do this because I just kept on breaking drill bits at the 0.3mm size as I really needed a micro drill tool to do the job.  I can't justify buying anymore tools at the moment so I just used what I had to hand.  Once I moved up to 0.5mm I didn't break one drill bit.
 
So I think there's about 1000 nails and the one's in the larger parts are 0.8mm in diameter.  Its not as subtle as I wanted on the planking but it doesn't stand out too much either so I'm happy with the results.
 
So now the next job is to fair the outside of the hull 👍  I've been looking forward to this part of the build for a long time now and there's a lot to do to pull it straight and fair.  I also think that this may be a good time to mark out and cut the top timbers to length as well.  If anyone has any thoughts on this please let me know.
 
Cheers Mark
 
 

Take 2!
 
Well at last I have an update 😀
 
I just couldn't leave it and I have now had another go at the ceiling.  I'm really glad that I did this as I have improved my techniques and I'm much happier with the result this time around.  The joints are much tighter than before and the overall look is what I was hoping to achieve the first time around.
 
Removing the work that I had already completed proved much harder to do than I thought that it would.  I think this is because I try and completely fill my joints with glue.  It just required patience and some acceptance that the frames were going to suffer a little damage no matter how I did it.
 
The next job is to complete the nailing on the ceiling, clamp, keelson and breast hook.  The scantlings say that the heads of the nails for the planks should be 1/5 of the thickness of the planks.  The planks are 1.6mm thick so that means I require 0.3mm nails.  I've found some 0.3mm carbon rod and I've made up a test piece that I think looks ok.
 
Once again thanks for all of the help and encouragement from you all
 
Mark
 

Reallohn nice collection of ships equipment 

Fine thanks

Thank you very much no idea and Gary.

Hi guy's. Here's a update on the build but this time it is more about her building board. I add a way of being able to tilt her from side to side  which helps keep the back in tack and a lot easier getting to thing's.  I worked on a couple of hanging knee's and being tilted made it a lot better.  I can't take the Credit for it which goes to  Alan/AON and the tech info on it. Hope you enjoy the pictures and any question will be more then happy to answer them

Wonderful model, Toni 

Reallohn nice collection of ships equipment 

Reallohn nice collection of ships equipment 

Reallohn nice collection of ships equipment 

The last two items to address are the gangway and the ladder going up to it.  The gangway is comprised of a frame of wood, secured to the bulwark with knees (two of them are visible in this cross section).  The frame is then planked.  I initially misinterpreted the drawing in the practicum and installed a stanchion between the deck and gangway.  The location made no sense to me as it would have been in the way of the gun.  The stanchion is actually between the gangway and the rail connecting it with the quarter deck.


The rail was somewhat tricky to make; it is curved in two directions.  There is a "fork" between the rail and the upper quarter deck rail stanchion and a tenon through which the gangway stanchion inserts.  When I made this rail, I thought I was using castelo.  After a coat of finish, it was apparent that this was pear.  After these photos were taken, I removed the rail and made a new one from castelo.  



The last thing to make was the ladder.  Echo is officially finished.  All that remains is to clean her up, and decide how I want to mount her.  


 
 
 

The channels were made and installed next.  These were glued and pinned to the hull.  The covering strip is only temporarily installed.  These also have a carved edge, similar but slightly narrower than the sheer rail.

The deadeyes were turned from swiss pear.  The chains are brass,  The middle link was silver soldered and shaped first.  The toe link and deadeye binding were then installed.  These were shaped and the deadeye installed after they were soldered.  The ironwork was then blackened and given a coat of matte finish.  The preventer plate was cut out from sheet brass.

Next up was making the drift rail and hance.  The hance is a section of rail that forms almost a ninety degree bend as it connects the drift rail with the planksheer.  I tried several times to carve it from a single piece of costelo.  I finally gave up and made it from three laminations, heat bent to shape.  This has the same molded edge as the planksheer.  Below the drift rail is the wider drift molding which terminates in a volute just behind the hance.  We are now up to eight molding profiles.

I decided to paint the rails and their extensions onto the hull, the planksheer and the drift rail.  To prevent getting paint on the hull, the undersurface of these would be painted off the model, the rails installed and then the upper surface and edges painted.  The planksheer offered no difficulty.  Because the curvature of the roughtree rail was gentler, I was able to heat bend a strip of costelo to the required shape.  The photo is after a few coats of very thin artist acrylic paint.  It still needs cleaning up and a coat of finish applied.


 
 

The oar port lid has been installed.  The hinge is flattened copper wire and the knuckle is brass rod.  My metal skills are insufficient to build a functional hinge this tiny, so the lid is glued in place.  Although the plan shows two fenders, I only had room for one.  I must have made a measurement error at the beginning of the build and I refuse to start over!  The outer face of the fender is carved with a scraper and bolted to the hull.  I had to make five scraper shapes for the various fittings seen in the picture.  The steps were made in one long strip which was cut to length and the side curves were made with a U-chisel and files.  Aft of the gunport are the holes for the pins which will attach to the channel.

I made the gallows and installed it onto the bitt pins.  To keep it secure, I drilled the pins and the gallows for a brass rod, which was inserted.  The inner bulwark planking and the bolts and rings for the gun were installed.  The breast beam was made up of three pieces.  The beam itself was made, using the pattern found in the practicum.  A rounded-over piece of wood extended forward from the beam.  This provided a step for the deck planking to rest against.  Quarter-round was glued under the rounded-over piece.  Rings were inserted through the rail and the bolts can be seen on the aft side of the breast beam.



The quarter deck railing was next.  The rail assembly consists of five stanchions, an upper and a lower rail.  The stanchions are morticed to allow them to be bolted to the aft side of the breast beam.  These were made up on a lathe.  A sheave was located below the lower rail.  I simulated the sheave by drilling and squaring off the sheave slot and painting the area between black.  The centerline stanchion was glued and pinned first.  In these pictures you can see the rebate for the deck planking on the beam.




Once this was secure, the lower rail was inserted over the stanchion; this acted as a template for the locations of the remaining stanchions.  They were inserted through the lower rail and spacers were used to keep the rail at a constant distance from the beam.  The stanchions were then glued and pinned.  After they were completely dry, the lower rail was glued onto them.  The upper rail was installed.  Because some of my tenons were not exactly the size of the openings in the upper rail, I shortened them so they did not extend all the way through the rail.  Dummy tenons were inserted and the top of the rail sanded smooth.  Finally, short segments of deck planking were installed.




 

I have installed the stops around the gun port and the oar port.  The gun port is framed on the bottom and sides, the oar port on all four sides.  The quarter deck clamps have been installed.  You can see that the stops are flush with the inner face of the frames.  The inner bulwark planking is next.

The log pumps, pump cisterns and winches have been installed.  The section of the winch which goes through the cistern is square;  the rest is round.  I could not find a short piece of brass rod to fabricate this from (and my purchasing option was for 20+ feet), so this section was made from castelo, dyed black with archival ink.  Round brass rod was annealed and bent into shape.  Repeated heating and hammering the piece against the edge of a machinist square gave me reasonably sharp corners.  Brass tube was soldered onto the aft end.  This was blackened and threaded onto the square rod.  The winch actually extends beyond the area of the cross-section and was therefore cut off at the edge of the model fore and aft.
 
Next is the exterior hull planking.

After giving the display base a coat of wipe on poly, I glued the stove to the base then the base to the supports on the beams. This completes the stove project.
 

 

 

 

 
This was another fun scratch build. Here is the stove displayed next to the capstan and ship's wheel.
 

 
And here are the two stoves together.
 

 
Thanks for following along. My focus now will be on finishing up the Duchess of Kingston, but I may have another scratch build in the future.

Good morning.

Hello,
except for his knee, the cat head is now ready. The knees comes then together with the rest of the head rails. But before that I would build the rest drift rails around the beakhead bulkhead.

KONIEC 🙂
 
 

To scrubbyj427: It is not possible to make all cuts in one pass. At first I tried to mill the figure gradually from all 4 sides - without much success. In the end, I decided to mill on only two sides and finish the details on the back and front by hand. I am satisfied with the result.
Lower and upper cheeks.