AnobiumPunctatum

I will follow yur log with great interest. I am waiting on some replacement parts and the Cheerful timber set from Chuck to start with this beautyful little model. I like your idea to show the room, but if you don't make a cut out of the deck I think that you will not see much. The room is really dark.
 

No. The frames are 3mm birch plywood with 5 layers and the filling is poplar plywood.

I think your hull will looks like as an model which is build following the "Augsburger method". The guy which has introduced this in our German forum comes from this nice city nearby munich. I used it as I made my reconstruction of HM Sloop Fly, 1776 to control my design.
 

 

I think your hull will looks like as an model which is build following the "Augsburger method". The guy which has introduced this in our German forum comes from this nice city nearby munich. I used it as I made my reconstruction of HM Sloop Fly, 1776 to control my design.
 

 

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.
I am currently studying the configuration of the 2 rooms that I will reproduce (based on the copy of the NMM plan).
 


I wonder: on this plan, only 2 doors are represented. One that connects the Commander's Cabin and the Bread Room, the second one that connects the two rooms that I am going to reproduce.
Now it appears that 6 rooms are located laterally: 4 Bed Places and 2 extensions for the Captain. So we should represent on each side 3 doors? Is it also necessary to provide a door to connect the central spacing of the ship?
I would like to have your opinion on this subject...
Thank you in advance

You could also use the actual interior for Cheerful.....rather than use one from the much older Alert.
 


 
 

Thank you to the people who follow this build.

Installation of bulkheads. And here all the difference in quality and precision of the kits produced by Syren appears.
When I remember it took me over a week of work to prepare and test the bulkheads setup on my Armed Virginia Sloop.
With the Cheerful, in ten minutes, the bulkheads blank test was done and I was able to start gluing them.
 

 
I had fun with my children's legos again. 😄 They won't hold it against me. They are now adults and have other interests.
 

 
Finally, I prepared a working basis to deposit my model.
 

 
I also planned a second base in anticipation of the fairing. I will probably raise it to make this task easier.
 

 
But before this phase, I'm going to reinforce the bulkheads and make a first modification to the model. I plan to add the detail of the captain's cabin which will be visible through the skylight.
 

Thank you Glenn and Michael for your support and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
I glued the keel on the false keel.

 
I work on a glass plate in order to have a flat surface.
 

 

 
Finally I simulated the treenails using Minwax wood putty.
 

 
Next step : the bulkheads

I think your hull will looks like as an model which is build following the "Augsburger method". The guy which has introduced this in our German forum comes from this nice city nearby munich. I used it as I made my reconstruction of HM Sloop Fly, 1776 to control my design.
 

 

Your methodical and meticulous nature are really shining, Tom.
 
In my opinion, the only way to ensure that a hand-made thing is truly good, and able to hold-up to intense scrutiny, is to invest whatever time is necessary in the process.  Your efforts, here, are exemplary.

Really wonderful.

In English:
James Lees: The masting and rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860
David Antscherl: Rigging a sixth rate sloop of 1767-1870, which is very detailed. I haven't checked if it is useful for rigging a third rate
 
In German:
Klaus Schrage Rundhölzer Tauwerk und Segel
I recommend the this book, because it contains a lot of useful detail drawings.
 
The last two are my favorites for rigging English ships
 
 

Really wonderful.

In English:
James Lees: The masting and rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860
David Antscherl: Rigging a sixth rate sloop of 1767-1870, which is very detailed. I haven't checked if it is useful for rigging a third rate
 
In German:
Klaus Schrage Rundhölzer Tauwerk und Segel
I recommend the this book, because it contains a lot of useful detail drawings.
 
The last two are my favorites for rigging English ships
 
 

Uchwyty do falkonetów nie dały się równo poczernić, za dużo było plam, cyna inaczej się czerni mosiądz inaczej dla tego pomalowałem czarnym matowym akrylem.
Bardzo kolegą dziękuję. Pozdrawiam.
 
 

Dziękuję Rafał, dziękuję za polubienie. Kotwica. Spławiki olchowe, ja też użyłem ołowiu, który łatwo układał się na boi. Ołów jest czerniony i lakierowany, aby zapobiec utlenianiu. Pozdrawiam Piotrek.
 
 

the anchor continued, thank you and best regards.

Thank you very much 🙂, Mike, I glued the slats to the board with a piece and screwed the whole thing to a vice, it is clearly visible in the pictures. The next stage is the anchor.
 
 

pump
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

windlass

#12 square frame
The aft one of the pair is again “cast forward”by 1.06mm-a dogleg that will form an upright for a port.
This means that the upper futtock an extra 1.06mm thick.-total 6.36mm.
The frame also has a timberhead.
Make note of height of sill as the cast must end below this.(11.3cm)
Again postponed making the sill mortise-although easier off model, measurement is too critical.
I started the shift 10mm above the futtock head.The mill was used to remove the necessary wood and a transition slope ,sanded.
Before fixing in place,a critical problem (for me at least) needed to be solved.
The position of frames #12 and #11 are determined by the width of the port opening-the fore #11 forms the second port frame.
This is given in TFFM as 15.1mm-This will mean the frames will need to be somewhat crowded- the usual spacing not working.
My framing pattern does show use of narrower timbers, and less gaps, but also a port opening of 16.3mm. The other ports are however 15.1mm, so I decided for symmetry and same thickness timbers. Fore #12 and aft #11 will be short, supporting the sill, and a narrow gap between them.
Additionally, the #11 pair are again separated by spacers.
Here I found another problem. The rising wood finishes between the pair.I assumed a faint vertical line marked the spot on my sheer pattern.This appears to be too short.
There is a difference in width and I decided to simply narrow the notch of the aft frame.
(If this leads to a problem later on please let me know.)
Also, to ensure my measuring of port gap was correct, I glued together  the #11 pair with their spacers, off the model, and then confirmed my estimate and only then, glued the pair to their seats on the keel.