AnobiumPunctatum

Thanks for the nice comments all. 
 
Chuck, we have this Hanse Kogge in card, your Wütender Hund in card, Chris's Wütender Hund in wood, that just leaves the wooden Kogge von Kampen kit, and we'd have Shipyard's full collection covered!
 
Any volunteers? Ages of Sail got a whole bunch of the wooden Koggen von Kampen kits...
 

 
 
 
Louie, thanks for the comments. On the coloring, like with most things, over time and repeated applications of protective coatings like pine tar oil, the darker the ship will be. Consider this a newish ship!
 
And, as for not wanting to work with card, I've completed a couple and find it a really fun medium. It's also a much "cleaner" medium than wood, as it makes little mess in comparison. The main feature that I find less forgiving is simply things that are pre-cut. But, they are also amazing time savers. 
 
I wasn't really feeling all that great yesterday, though much better today, but I'd just stayed in and did a few more things to the model. There is a ladder at the bow that I completed, as well as that beam the runs underneath those two heavy posts on the bulwarks.
 
As expected, the beam didn't fit correctly. In order to get it to fit, I had to remove one of the posts and also trim down the ends of the beam just a little. But, it worked, and I was able to fit the beam and glue the post back into place. When adding the knees to this assembly, I could see that the hull didn't flare outward at the top quite as much as it was supposed to, as the knees didn't sit right. However, the bulwarks are flexible enough that gluing and clamping the knees into place pushed the bulwarks to the correct shape.
 

 
 
So, next, I decided it was time to deal with the timberheads sticking up out of the bulwarks and all. Wondering why card modelers in Eastern Europe are always risking their fingers with razor blades, I thought I'd give it a try. I have plenty of half blades, which gives less "handle" for holding the blade, but maybe less risk of slicing the fingers with only half the sharp edges.
 

 
This turned out to work really well on the untreated card parts, but I had stiffened each of the timberheads with a shot of thin CA. It didn't work so well on those, and I was forced to lay the hull on it's side to support the bulwarks, while I chopped down on the timberheads with a scalpel. This worked out well. I then applied a little paint over the ends to clean up the cuts.
 

 
Next step will be to add a couple support knees to the bulwarks around midships and to begin assembling the rudder.
 
Clare
 

Almost done designing the new jig...
 
Bulkheads:

 
False Keel:

 
Assembled with keel in place:

 
First five strakes:

 
After the first five strakes are installed I will be removing the bulkheads/false keel assembly and turning it upright.
 
Next steps will be:
1. Design the uprights that hold the keel in place
2. Design the horizontal cutout with notches for the bulkheads
3. Design the strips of wood to go on the baseboard to hold the keel in place when upright
4. Slice the keel into cross sections and scarfs so I can build it up out of layers
5. Print templates and start cutting things out of wood!
 
I'm so close and so excited!!!

Shameless plug for Rockler Woodworking, I see! I am lucky to have one about 3 miles from my house.
 
What an impressive jig! Gonna spend some time looking at that one, because the more time spent, the more I think I can learn from it...

New keel complete and ready for cutting into layers!
 
I finally managed to get a perfect transition from T to rabbets:
 

 
The trick was to toss out the cross sections from the Saga Oseberg book entirely and cut them from the keel using the inner face of the garboard strake to define the shape. It's still nearly identical to the version in the book, but much easier to model.
 
Here's the completed keel altogether:
 

 
 
There are no rabbets cut on the stems because they had none on them in building Saga Oseberg until each strake was attached. They connected the stems without rabbets, and then cut the rabbets while fitting each plank to the stem and stern.
 
Next step: New smooth bulkheads per @AnobiumPunctatum's advice. I'm also going to do half as many bulkheads this time around, and only for the lower strakes. Once the lower strakes are in place I can add the frames and the rest of the hull should take shape on its own.

Chris,
 
I am not shure if I understand your problem right. I had saturday the opportunity to make a short trip with the replica "Kamper Kogge" and that is what the shrouds are looking on the real ship. So don't worry if they are not really parallel.😉
 

Chris,
 
I am not shure if I understand your problem right. I had saturday the opportunity to make a short trip with the replica "Kamper Kogge" and that is what the shrouds are looking on the real ship. So don't worry if they are not really parallel.😉
 

Got the yard braces and lifts done today. There remain only the sheets, tacks, bridles, and clew lines. Surprisingly, the otherwise extremely thorough photo instructions seem to have overlooked the clew lines, but they're shown on the plans.

Bolt ropes done, sail halves lashed together, sail bent to yard, and reef points done.
 

 
So, of course, yard had to be hoisted.
 

A wonderful picture. It's looking great.

Thanks guys!
 
With the attachment of the oars its finally complete.
 
It will now have to wait for a base and a lowered anchor with a kellet to be attached according to Mark's info above. But, as I said, this will have to wait, as I am moving houses towards the end of the year and it will be easier to pack and transfer it without the base.
 
So, I declare it done for now and will post a few pictures with the base when that is done, is a few months' time.
 

Finally finished chapter four in its entirety.   The deck is finally planked.   There shouldnt be much much planking for a while.  Pretty straight forward from my last update.  Just follow your lining out of the deck planks and take your time.   Match the tapering and curve of each plank just like you did when planking the outboard hull.
 
I will begin chapter chapter five by getting back to some outboard details.  First the cheeks and hawse holes...then the rudder.   Afterwards it will be back inboard to add the details to the bulwarks and the guns.
 
Feel free to ask me any questions.
 
Some photos...






 

Work on the aft upper deck has begun.
 
ben

I just read the chapter on how the planks were made in the Saga Oseberg book. Mr Finderup pretty thoroughly lays the debate to rest on the positioning and dimensions of the frames and the plank clamps.
 
1. There is no systematic pattern to where the plank clamps are located, except that they line up perfectly with the frames. Some are riveted on.
 
2. The frames are neither perpendicular to the keel nor the centerline. Mr Finderup theorizes this is because it is very difficult to find trees that are exactly symmetrical with branches at exactly the correct angles.
 
3. The Vikings must have known at least approximately where the frames would cross each plank, otherwise they would not line up with the clamps.
 
4. Given the above, the builders of Saga Oseberg tried out a few different ways of making the planks. Only two worked. One was to cut a series of somewhat wider clamps along the length of the plank, and then the location of the frame was determined after the plank was attached to the hull, the extra clamps were trimmed off. The other was to identify the exact location of the intersection of the frame with the plank before cutting any clamps, then cut a slightly larger clamp than is needed and fine tune it when placing the frame.
 
 This tells me a few things about how to proceed with my model.
 
1. Sourcing trees with the correct curves to their branches is not an issue, so I can place my frames however I want as long as the curves of the hull remain the same and I don’t mind sacrificing authenticity for simplicity.
 
2. Unlike the Vikings, this means I have complete control over the placement of my frames, and therefore I can calculate the locations of the clamps ahead of time.
 
3. The book goes into great detail about how to actually make the clamps and their dimensions in general (they vary with no rhyme nor reason but can be averaged).
 
 
from here on out I think I’m going to go down the artistic license rabbit hole to make a good looking seaworthy model inspired by the Oseberg ship rather than agonizing over getting every detail historically accurate.
 
 This should be fun. 😁
 
 
 
 

Chris,
 
I am not shure if I understand your problem right. I had saturday the opportunity to make a short trip with the replica "Kamper Kogge" and that is what the shrouds are looking on the real ship. So don't worry if they are not really parallel.😉
 

Chris,
 
I am not shure if I understand your problem right. I had saturday the opportunity to make a short trip with the replica "Kamper Kogge" and that is what the shrouds are looking on the real ship. So don't worry if they are not really parallel.😉
 

Chris,
 
I am not shure if I understand your problem right. I had saturday the opportunity to make a short trip with the replica "Kamper Kogge" and that is what the shrouds are looking on the real ship. So don't worry if they are not really parallel.😉
 

Chris,
 
I am not shure if I understand your problem right. I had saturday the opportunity to make a short trip with the replica "Kamper Kogge" and that is what the shrouds are looking on the real ship. So don't worry if they are not really parallel.😉
 

Forward upper deck framing almost complete, need to add the riding bitts and the final ledge piece.
 
ben

This looks so beautyful, Kris.
Please check the position of the frame. If it is the position of the middel frame near by the mast, it has a slightly different design. Before drawing the frames I would add the clamps on the planks to bind the frames. Than I woud add the  mastspoor. The frames are not sitting perpendicular to the keel. I could not see, if you remember this small detail.
I don't know if you answered the question: which software do you use for the drawings?

This looks so beautyful, Kris.
Please check the position of the frame. If it is the position of the middel frame near by the mast, it has a slightly different design. Before drawing the frames I would add the clamps on the planks to bind the frames. Than I woud add the  mastspoor. The frames are not sitting perpendicular to the keel. I could not see, if you remember this small detail.
I don't know if you answered the question: which software do you use for the drawings?

I figured out the problem with my top two strakes. I'd apparently dragged them out of position at some point without realizing it. Here's the corrected version with the frame in place. The knees fit much better now.
 

I've completed drawing one test frame! My top two strakes don't quite line up so I'll have to do some troubleshooting on those.
 

 
I will take all of your jig suggestions together and come up with a new jig over the next couple days. I'm getting so close I can smell the future sawdust from here!

Shrouds are done, and thanks to some help from Jack in steering me to an old thread on shroud twist, I managed to get the lanyards set up with only a slight amount of twist -- far better than what I was originally achieving, which was like a half-dozen twists each. Now, as far as the shrouds themselves go, sharp-eyed observers may notice that I made a bit of a mistake on them. If you know what it is, don't say anything!! My target audience for this model is extremely unlikely to notice that anything is amiss, and I had to weigh that knowledge against the tedium and inconvenience of completely redoing the shrouds. I chose the easy option -- so shoot me! 😉
 

Fantastic results of a very unorthodox method.
Isn't there a big risc to damage the planking during the demolitian of the internal structure.
 
It would be very interesting if you could give us more information about your method.

Good morning.