AnobiumPunctatum
-
Posts
1,233 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Larry Cowden in Oseberg Ship by KrisWood - 1:25 - Vibeke Bischoff Plans
I would buil the jig much higher, that you can build the complete keel and stem for putting it on the jig. Perhaps a design as for a paper model with a horizontal board is a good idea.
This is a picture of my jig I tried to build the Skuldelev ship III. My biggest mistake, was to use a stepped design for the jig. It's much easier to mark the position of every plank, than you dont't have truble with the small inaccuracies during the build.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Louie da fly in Oseberg Ship by KrisWood - 1:25 - Vibeke Bischoff Plans
@KrisWood Yes that's exactly what I mean. I've stopped my project, because the bulkheads didn't work for me.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in Oseberg Ship by KrisWood - 1:25 - Vibeke Bischoff Plans
@KrisWood Yes that's exactly what I mean. I've stopped my project, because the bulkheads didn't work for me.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Louie da fly in Oseberg Ship by KrisWood - 1:25 - Vibeke Bischoff Plans
I would buil the jig much higher, that you can build the complete keel and stem for putting it on the jig. Perhaps a design as for a paper model with a horizontal board is a good idea.
This is a picture of my jig I tried to build the Skuldelev ship III. My biggest mistake, was to use a stepped design for the jig. It's much easier to mark the position of every plank, than you dont't have truble with the small inaccuracies during the build.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from KrisWood in Oseberg Ship by KrisWood - 1:25 - Vibeke Bischoff Plans
@KrisWood Yes that's exactly what I mean. I've stopped my project, because the bulkheads didn't work for me.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in Oseberg Ship by KrisWood - 1:25 - Vibeke Bischoff Plans
I would buil the jig much higher, that you can build the complete keel and stem for putting it on the jig. Perhaps a design as for a paper model with a horizontal board is a good idea.
This is a picture of my jig I tried to build the Skuldelev ship III. My biggest mistake, was to use a stepped design for the jig. It's much easier to mark the position of every plank, than you dont't have truble with the small inaccuracies during the build.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from tarbrush in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
That's looking really good.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in Oseberg Ship by KrisWood - 1:25 - Vibeke Bischoff Plans
Really interesting build log. Thanks for sharing
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from KrisWood in Oseberg Ship by KrisWood - 1:25 - Vibeke Bischoff Plans
Really interesting build log. Thanks for sharing
-
AnobiumPunctatum reacted to KrisWood in Oseberg Ship by KrisWood - 1:25 - Vibeke Bischoff Plans
Not much to show at the moment. I'm still in the process of designing the new building jig. I'm currently halfway through the new planking bulkheads. It's somewhat on the time consuming side of things, but I'm very happy with the progress so far.
This time around, I've drawn the thickness of the bulkheads so I don't end up trying to bend planks around only one edge of the bulkheads like I did last time.
I hope to finish drawing the bulkheads tonight after work, and then I'll move on to drawing a frame for the jig to hold the keel and bulkheads in place.
After that I can get back into the wood!
There's a light at the end of the CAD tunnel now!
-
AnobiumPunctatum reacted to woodrat in Yenikapi12 by woodrat - FINISHED - 1/16 scale - a small Byzantine merchant vessel of the 9th century
I was being a little naughty about the hulc, Pat, but, now that I have thought about it , it's not that bad an idea. I might give it a go soon.
I have now planked down to the first wale and will start on the flat bottom. Should be easy till I get to the trun of the bilgeawaiting a stealer
Cheers
Dick
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
That's looking really good.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Louie da fly in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
That's looking really good.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Hanse Kogge by Catopower - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72 scale - CARD
The stern castle of the "Kogge von Kampen" is based on a shipwreck which was found in Kamen Netherlands. It's showing an older type of a stern castle. I am quite shure, that the rest of the kit is based on "Kogge von Bremen"
The cog "Wütender Hund" shows in my opinion the classic cog also with a stem castle. It's a generic cog model. Most historical pictures are showing the stem castle. There is always a discussion, of the Bremen cog was finished before they got lost, because she don't has this.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Canute in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
That's looking really good.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Canute in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
Chris,
congratulations for reaching this milestone. I started yesterday with page one of the instructionbook.
This anchor is looking really modern. Did you some research? If I am back at home I can check if I find something in my books.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Canute in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
Really nice progress Chris.
What glue do you use ? In the instruction manual Shipyard shows a contact glue (Pattex) and I was really surprised to see this. I am thinking to use Titebond woodglue.
If the the weather is so worse as expected, I will start the build of my model today.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from ccoyle in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
That's looking really good.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Keith Black in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
That's looking really good.
-
AnobiumPunctatum reacted to ccoyle in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
Mainmast completed and stepped. Considering that there is only one other spar to turn, plus a couple of flagstaffs, I'm hopeful that the rigging will go relatively quickly.
My card model stash in the background grew by one addition today -- but I'll reveal that in the "what have you received today" thread.
-
AnobiumPunctatum reacted to AON in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Round House Deck template
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from FriedClams in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
Chris,
congratulations for reaching this milestone. I started yesterday with page one of the instructionbook.
This anchor is looking really modern. Did you some research? If I am back at home I can check if I find something in my books.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from FriedClams in Wütender Hund by ccoyle - FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/72
Really nice progress Chris.
What glue do you use ? In the instruction manual Shipyard shows a contact glue (Pattex) and I was really surprised to see this. I am thinking to use Titebond woodglue.
If the the weather is so worse as expected, I will start the build of my model today.
-
AnobiumPunctatum reacted to AON in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
After finishing the cleats I made the nine hole fairlead. Full disclosure: I did this twice. It took a few days of chewing on it before I decided the first was just too tall to step over, and the rope holes were just too small.
The process for both was the same.
I scribed the Inside and Outside Diameter and then the Hole Circle with my compass, then laid out the radial lines for the holes.
I found a finishing nail to use as a pin, and drill a centre hole to pin the piece to a base board. The piece could now be spun about on the centre pin.
I first drilled the rope holes, then machined the aft face profile with a bull nosed cutter, and finally sanded the Outside radius into the piece before removing the pin.
The last act was to drill a hole for the Inside Diameter and sand the flat face to the final thickness of 7-1/2" (0.12" to scale).
The piece was cut off and the work was sanded to fit the mast.
Above you can see the original one glued on and the new one placed beside it.
I sanded the old one down to near the mast, soaked some cotton in rubbing alcohol, wrapped it around the remnant of the old saddle and wrapped that in plastic wrap.
This was left overnight. This morning I removed the old bits quite easily, let things dry, sanded again, and glued the new fairlead in place.
Our Emblem ®
