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Clark Griswold

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    Woodinville, Washington

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  1. Minor update... I've commenced planking the forecastle and settled upon using the scalloped clinker style found on the nao of Mataro. Although the scallop is less obvious than the original I think it achieves what I was striving for. Now that the Thanksgiving weekend chore of decorating for Christmas is complete I should be able to forge ahead to complete second planking of the bulwarks this weekend. One particular challenge was keeping the .5mm strips from curling from the Titebond. Rubber bands and scrap to the rescue! Bands removed and lower edges trimm
  2. Gorgeous. I've always appreciated models that respect the vehicle and the modeler by including details and subassemblies only someone experiencing the 1:1 or the modeler would know about.
  3. I agree. The placement of the "vents" are curiously close to where you'd bolt or nail the slats to the hatch cover frame. Amati has made a few interesting design decisions in their interpretation that I have yet to figure out if it was to match a skill level or a kit price; likely a mix of both. Keep up the good work Rodolfo.
  4. Lately, I've been bouncing back between "yacht rock", Goo Goo Dolls and the Gin Blossoms. Good, easy going tunes while ship modeling in the shop are a double shot of much needed medicine these days.
  5. New days, new mistakes and an ever growing mess of wood bits and tools on the bench. Since my last update I've managed to complete the upper decking and attach the bulwark rails. In the process I've realized trying to recreate the staining outcome two weeks later is easier said than done as as such I can't quite get the decks to match shades. I'm telling myself the real thing wouldn't match exactly either. During my efforts, I managed to split the decking along the seam of the false deck while sanding a tad vigorously. To restore a bit of rigidity I took a walnut planking str
  6. I wouldn't seal any part of the first planking (planks or filler). There should be little to no visible wood filler remaining after sanding prior to your second planking. If you have any areas of large gaps or divots in the first planking you are better served glueing additional strips and sanding down, particularly if the area is a critical glue point for the second/final planking.
  7. If you find you need more rigidity, you can use paper mache on the hull using common household materials. Great work with just cardboard so far!
  8. Where Do All My Friends Go - Oingo Boingo 1987
  9. Managed to make some progress the past couple weeks despite the office's and admiral's greatest efforts to swallow my free time. Its looking like I'll have the whole weekend to work. If all goes to plan my next update will be in a few days. -------------------------- Clamps and bands... bands and clamps... certainly becoming a recurring theme in my shop. I realized the importance of pre-shaping and forming before trying to attach the bulwarks, particularly the upper bow pieces that have a compound curve to them. I have my doubts about how well I faired the bow (poss
  10. Most of my build takes place in the garage/shop so I'm free from unsolicited help. Towards the end or when reading/researching I have more eyes and "help" than one would imagine. My lazy first mate... The master/ship's representative... always interrupting, demanding better accommodations and calmer seas. At any given moment the able bodied seamen here in my man cave/office are preparing to mutiny if rations aren't provided in short order.
  11. Thank you for the kind words. Louie, I am using TiteBond II as my dispensed from a needle top bottle as my primary adhesive. I also have contact adhesive, CA, and TiteBond III as the situation dictates. The needle top bottle has been a boon for clean and conservative application. I don't recall whose tip it was for the bottle, but I read it here on MSW. Jean-Pierre, I knew very little of this ship when I purchased it. I have only begun to learn more about this votive model and the ships that inspired it. I find reading and researching throughout the build makes
  12. Those are some exquisite examples. I've only built one, the Painted Racer, but one day plan to build a proper one (unpainted). As far as old tugs go... there is a certain beauty to their utilitarian design and they are quite fun when put to work on the water.
  13. Did some work remedying my mistake at the bow, drilled out my mast hole, and started fairing the bulkheads and filler plugs. After sleeping on it for a few nights I realized I did not want to trim the foremost portion of the false deck since it will help inform the curvature of the filler blocks. It isn't exactly pretty, but I managed to clear out enough room to install false deck correctly. I'm torn whether or not to hog out the remainder of the filler visible in the keyhole. I may cover it with darkly a stained sheet of scrap so that it disappears from view. Looking at othe
  14. Steps 1-5ish continued... After glueing the keel(s) and bulkheads I boxed/filled in the mast step which I will drill out with my drill press once the glue has had a chance to fully cure (I imagine a week or two should be sufficient enough so as not to foul my bit). I'm sure once the rigging is set the mast will be quite secure but I chose to err on the conservative side. The visibly wet glue is a thin layer, there is wood just beneath it. I have chosen to fill in the fore and aft bulkheads with basswood to assist in setting the proper shape.
  15. For my first true ship build I have chosen the Coca by Amati. While I like the design, I have also chosen it as a stepping stone into more complicated, multi-masted ships of greater interest to me. I accept I am bound to make errors and look forward to recovering from them. I plan to note areas I diverged from Amati's prescribed directions and my rationale. I'll apologize in advance to those expecting DSLR photos... most will be iPhone photos, at least during the messy phase since my wife is not overly enthused by the side of it venturing into the garage. ------------------
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