
marsalv
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Thank you guys for all comments and likes. The running rigging I started by installing the blocks and footropes on the yards. I chose the fore and main lower yards first, which are the most difficult.
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Futtock shrouds and crowfeets. This completes the lower masts standing rigging. I will continue with top masts standing rigging.
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Thank you giampieroricci, I try to match your model at least a little . I continue with catharpins and bowsprit horses.
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Thank you all for the very positive responses, they are embarrassing me a bit. To dvm27: It is not an exact copy of real splice. The ends of the rope are cut to a length of approx. 2 - 5 mm (depending on the size of the ceiling), the number of threads is then reduced by half on each side. Subsequently, the ends of the ropes are connected to each other and with the help of PVA and fingers, a connection is made. Finally, wrapping is done on the joint thus formed. So even if it's fake, the result doesn't look bad.
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I am very pleased with the positive reactions to the use of a CNC milling machine in the construction of the model, but to be honest, I myself would need a lot of lessons from more experienced people (at least as far as 3D computer modeling is concerned). To Vladimir_Wairoa: I use French Sajou threads, which are waxed (at least that's what the manufacturer says), so I don't have so many problems with "hair" on the ropes. I continue making pendants and lower mast shrouds.
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Thank you guys for very nice comments. Preparing to make these blocks was quite a challenge for me. But the result exceeded all my expectations. Uncritically, I have to admit that I myself am very satisfied with the result.. To Hsae - The blocks are made with a CNC milling machine, not from Proxxon, but a commonly available Chinese milling machine. The material for the blocks is pear. The construction of the model moved to the next stage - rigging. I start by attaching the bowsprit.
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To No Idea: As garyshipwrighter partially answered you, the small blocks are intended as a stop for gammoning and collars (fore stay, fore preventer stay, inner and outer bobstay) - see enclosed picture. I finished all the masts and tried installing them on the model.
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To Hubac´s Historian: Chain segments are soldered with silver solder paste. Using solder paste instead of solid solder has the advantage that it is possible to dispense a really minimal amount of solder onto the soldered joint. In places where a really minimal amount is needed, it helps to first heat the soldering parts with a flame and only then dose the solder paste. The solder spreads when it touches a heated area, which makes dosing easier. To Richard Dunn: I am going to rig my model, but only rigging without sails. To Daniel.b: I only have one stepper motor (x-axis) attached to the MF70, so it doesn't work like a real CNC machine. I only use it for x-axis scrolling (on/off switch). For these purposes, I have made a simple driver to control the stepper motor (i.e. without connecting to a PC). Topmast deadeyes and futtock-plates. Tops are completed.
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To robert952: This is not a pill container. These are plastic cups intended for paints, which can be advantageously used for storing small things - see link: https://www.sevt.cz/produkt/kelimek-plastovy-primo-7-6-ml-25040400820/ https://www.sevt.cz/produkt/kelimek-plastovy-primo-3-75-ml-25041501850/
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Small adjustments to the masts, preparation of parts for the masts and tops - fishes, crosstrees, trestletrees, cheeks, caps.
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