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marsalv

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Everything posted by marsalv

  1. marsalv
    To No Idea: As garyshipwrighter partially answered you, the small blocks are intended as a stop for gammoning and collars (fore stay, fore preventer stay, inner and outer bobstay) - see enclosed picture. I finished all the masts and tried installing them on the model.
  2. marsalv
    Hi Richard, I will be very happy to follow your construction. In the 1:24 scale, a truly impressive model will be created. Will you be building just the hull or the whole model?
  3. marsalv
    Thank you druxey. I continue with bowsprit.
  4. marsalv
    I started assembling the masts.
  5. marsalv
    To Hubac´s Historian: Chain segments are soldered with silver solder paste. Using solder paste instead of solid solder has the advantage that it is possible to dispense a really minimal amount of solder onto the soldered joint. In places where a really minimal amount is needed, it helps to first heat the soldering parts with a flame and only then dose the solder paste. The solder spreads when it touches a heated area, which makes dosing easier. To Richard Dunn: I am going to rig my model, but only rigging without sails. To Daniel.b: I only have one stepper motor (x-axis) attached to the MF70, so it doesn't work like a real CNC machine. I only use it for x-axis scrolling (on/off switch). For these purposes, I have made a simple driver to control the stepper motor (i.e. without connecting to a PC). Topmast deadeyes and futtock-plates. Tops are completed.
  6. marsalv
    To robert952: This is not a pill container. These are plastic cups intended for paints, which can be advantageously used for storing small things - see link: https://www.sevt.cz/produkt/kelimek-plastovy-primo-7-6-ml-25040400820/ https://www.sevt.cz/produkt/kelimek-plastovy-primo-3-75-ml-25041501850/
  7. marsalv
    Fantastic and inspiring work. Have you tried using silver solder paste instead of solid solder for silver soldering? Dosing solder paste is much easier, even when adding a small amount.
  8. marsalv
    I continue making tops.
  9. marsalv
    Small adjustments to the masts, preparation of parts for the masts and tops - fishes, crosstrees, trestletrees, cheeks, caps.
  10. marsalv
    Hull is completed, so I started produktion of masts.
  11. marsalv
    Nice to see you again.
  12. marsalv
    Fantastic work!
  13. marsalv
    I finally finished installing channels, deadeyes and chains after a long time.
  14. marsalv
    Thank your guys for all likes and comments. I continue with channels.
  15. marsalv
    Very nice and clean work. I have a question. How is the blackening of brass achieved? Just painting it with tung oil? marsalv
  16. marsalv
    Deadeyes. Most modelers make deadeyes using a lathe. I tried a new method (at least for me) of production using a CNC milling machine.
  17. marsalv
    Thank you No Idea. The last decoration is added at the end of the mainrail and the head is completely finished. Next parts will be channels, chains, deadeyes etc.
  18. marsalv
    Thank you guys. I continue with seats of easy, filling peace (in front of the gammoning) and boomkins.
  19. marsalv
    Thanks for all comments and likes. The front part of the model is practically done except for a few details.
  20. marsalv
    Thank you guys. I continue with making of gratings - to be continued...
  21. marsalv
    Headrails.
  22. marsalv
    I continue with wash-cant beneath the lower cheeks and bolsters.
  23. marsalv
    To scrubbyj427: It is not possible to make all cuts in one pass. At first I tried to mill the figure gradually from all 4 sides - without much success. In the end, I decided to mill on only two sides and finish the details on the back and front by hand. I am satisfied with the result. Lower and upper cheeks.
  24. marsalv
    Now it's time to finish the head, so I had to start producing a long-delayed component - a figurehead. Making a figure using a CNC milling machine was quite a challenge for me. You can now judge the result.
  25. marsalv
    . Chesstrees, fenders and the side ladders.

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