achuck49
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achuck49 got a reaction from thibaultron in How to chisel a solid hull boat
Ahoy!
When working on solid hull boats such as the MS Phantom or Sultana not all areas can be shaped with a dremil or sandpaper. So how does one use a chisel to trim that area between fore and aft decks or thin the thick bow portion. The aft part of the deck should be flat but it slopes upward and that portion of the bullwork needs to be cleaner.
How to position the hull for chiseling, how does one do this type of work.
Chuck A
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achuck49 got a reaction from Nirvana in Virginia 1819 by Matt763 - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:41 - First Build
Hi
Regardless of any problems you have with the hull, it is Sooooo much better than my skill level.
Looks good
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achuck49 reacted to Matt763 in Virginia 1819 by Matt763 - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:41 - First Build
After lurking for a while and checking out everyone's amazing builds on here, i decided to embark on one of my own. I had previously done plastic modelling and such but nothing ever quite like this so needless to say it was a bit daunting and overwhelming what with the vast amount of knowledge people seem to have and how the instructions for these models arent super clear.
I wasnt going to do a build log for the ship originally mainly because it was my first one and i wasnt sure how well it would turn out. But so far i am quite pleased! It is not perfect and there are flaws and things i am unhappy with, but for my first time i would say not too shabby. So i am going to start the log part way into the build.
I have just finished my first layer of planking and i am working on sanding and filling the small dents and gaps with some wood filler. The instructions had suggested to put on the decking before doing the planking but since i thought i would be flipping the model over and pushing on it to drive in the pins for the planks, i opted to take care of that after.
So here are a few pictures i have taken so far. A few pictures partway through the planking, some of the completed pre-sanded hull and lastly some of the mostly finished and sanded hull (still have a bit of tweaking to do on it).
Next up will be planking the deck and any suggestions are helpful!
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achuck49 got a reaction from thibaultron in Deafness on a 74 gunner
I know know a great deal concerning artillery. Not a boast, but I have about 50 years worth of expertise in this specialty. Loud noise can cause hearing loss over time. You can, for example, go to a lother of rock concert's and over time suffer a loss at certain frequencies, but carry-on just fine. With artillery, the issue is blast over pressure. If the over pressure is outside the hull, then you have a loud rock concert in the 10th of a second or less of the actual blast. If the firing took place inside the hull, the over pressure could perforate ears and and cause brain concussions. With modern artillery has muzzle brakes that direct the pressure to the side of the tube. At maximum charges not many persons are required to have hearing protection in the battery area.
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achuck49 got a reaction from mtaylor in Deafness on a 74 gunner
I know know a great deal concerning artillery. Not a boast, but I have about 50 years worth of expertise in this specialty. Loud noise can cause hearing loss over time. You can, for example, go to a lother of rock concert's and over time suffer a loss at certain frequencies, but carry-on just fine. With artillery, the issue is blast over pressure. If the over pressure is outside the hull, then you have a loud rock concert in the 10th of a second or less of the actual blast. If the firing took place inside the hull, the over pressure could perforate ears and and cause brain concussions. With modern artillery has muzzle brakes that direct the pressure to the side of the tube. At maximum charges not many persons are required to have hearing protection in the battery area.
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achuck49 reacted to aydingocer in Bosphorus Sandal by aydingocer - FINISHED - Tersane Model - Scale 1:16 - Classic Turkish fishing boat
Front deck top, wall, cabinet cover and ribs are in place.
It will be complete once I have installed the 1x2mm strips along the edges of the deck and the wall in order to cover the gaps.
End of Build day: 10
3 hours today, 26 hours in total.
Thanks for watching.
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achuck49 got a reaction from ccoyle in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
Question: how do I mark the title 'finished'?
I wanted to have sails flapping in the wind,as the craft fly's across the Black Sea.
Reality bites again, I fear that any attempt to do anything else will result in damage to the paper thin deck.
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achuck49 got a reaction from mtaylor in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
A major problem has raised it's ugly head. The masts required for the sails, are missing or I am supposed to create them. With all of the instructions written in Russian, it is impossible to know. The instructions, parts listing, and diagrams do not show anything to any type of scale. There are illustrations showing the craft nearly as mine is with the masts stowed and laying in the deck and with full sails.
It is so fragile that I lean towards a stowed mast.
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achuck49 got a reaction from cristikc in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
The false deck and gun carrage are complete.
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achuck49 got a reaction from greenstone in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
Greetings and Salutations,
I have wanted to start a build log and successfully complete a build log for a long time. I have a true mental block when it comes to building a hull that is not solid out of the box. Master Korabel has all the parts and pieces precut so I figured ‘how hard can this be?’.
The Cannon Jolle 1801, was up for auction and I won the bid for about 1/3 the original price. This supports my opinion that this will not be a hard build. Expensive kits are hard, inexpensive kits should therefore be easy.
The box is about 14"x8" inches and it is full of empty space because inside the parts and pieces are very small.
Please notice the size of the kit when compared to a U.S. dime. Well this means that I need a smaller work space for this particular kit.
Even though the written instructions are in Russian, the photos of the actual build are clear and concise.
I will finish this log. It good then great, if bad, then everyone can learn what not to do.
What can possibly go wrong?
Chuck A
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achuck49 got a reaction from mtaylor in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
At long last I have the sides installed. My enthusiasm for this kit is waining. It is small and fragile. If I am in the same room something gets bent or broken.
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achuck49 reacted to themadchemist in Swift 1805 by Cannon Fodder - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:50 - Second ship built
Also I found transparent tape useful for making patterns. For me it was easier then the paper or card stock. I would lay the tape over the leading edge to be planked next to making sure the tape doesn't kink. Using a pencil lead edge I would run it along the taped plank edge and emboss the tape with the edge. I would then place this tape over the next plank to be placed and use the tape pencil line for where to trim, Of course I'd pre-shape first. This is also illustrated in my swift log if interested.
Using the 2 above methods for planking, I was able to plank both sides without any dropped planks. I'd highly recommend a planking fan for marking your bulkhead plank placement so you know how much to narrow the planks also.
I find mindset also key, Think of each plank as a model unto itself and take plenty of time. Planking has become my favorite part once I slowed down and learn to focus on one plank at a time.
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achuck49 reacted to paul carruthers in HMS Pegasus by paul carruthers - Victory Models - Scale 1:64
Kicked off and hope to utilise previous posts to avoid the pitfalls, will be using the kit with the exception of the cannon.
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achuck49 got a reaction from mtaylor in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
The cannon is installed, rudder in place and the new hatch covers attached.
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achuck49 reacted to mikiek in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
Thank you Scott. It's an interesting build. Some details here that you wouldn't run into on a sailing ship. As a matter of fact, oars is one of those. If I do choose to do them I would consider having them in place sort of like the Roman & Egyptian galley models. The reason being there's 28 of them, I think trying to bundle up that many and place them somewhere in the boat might look funny. Even if I did 2 bundles of 14 - one per side.
I have run into an aesthetic quandary. The planks for the upper deck are walnut. I will give Amati an A+ on the cutting work - good clean edges, consistent size. However the color range goes from the dark brown we know & love to something so light it looks like basswood. I did not notice this as I began the deck planking. It took 2 sticks to cover the stern deck and as luck would have it I grabbed 2 of the dark ones for that. So the stern is all dark. Now I'm working down the boat and seeing that the contrast between the darkest & lightest sticks may be too much. Especially since the stern is all dark. Don't get me wrong, I like having planks in varying shades but maybe not in this case. I put some natural stain on to see if that might even it up. Ehhh.
The pic sort of shows this but it is more pronounced in person. Would appreciate some opinions before I continue on or tear them off and redo.
And no, I will not be outfitting the build with carbon fiber tubes
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achuck49 got a reaction from mtaylor in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
It has a hull!
Not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but it is the best I have done so far.
Stained it red oak, because I like the color. After I finish with the wooden pieces on the deck area, I will stain it the same. Then poly it because I think it will look nice with a bit of a shine.
The broken hatch covers are still a bit of a challenge. I have tried some scrap basswood strips, they look OK, but not correct. I might just take some old sail cloth, soak it in coffee and cut out a canvas piece.
Not much wood work left. Mount the cannon and then some side pieces for masts and such. The cannon is brass that has been pre-blackened.
Chuck A
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achuck49 got a reaction from coxswain in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
It has a hull!
Not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but it is the best I have done so far.
Stained it red oak, because I like the color. After I finish with the wooden pieces on the deck area, I will stain it the same. Then poly it because I think it will look nice with a bit of a shine.
The broken hatch covers are still a bit of a challenge. I have tried some scrap basswood strips, they look OK, but not correct. I might just take some old sail cloth, soak it in coffee and cut out a canvas piece.
Not much wood work left. Mount the cannon and then some side pieces for masts and such. The cannon is brass that has been pre-blackened.
Chuck A
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achuck49 got a reaction from coxswain in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
Disaster has hit the Jolle!
I was attempting to remove some deck pieces from the sheet of parts. As I have mentioned before, this is difficult because of the tight laser cutting of the parts. I admit that I was frustrated and to speed things along, I used the edge of a single blade razor blade to try cut a piece loose.
Bad idea, it caused the entire sheet of parts to split length wise. This also went through a number of pieces, cutting them in half. I tried to repair the damage with glue, but that failed. The thickness of this sheet of wood is equal to two or three sheets of normal typing paper. The glued part did not have enough strength to hold it's own and it would flop over or just fall apart.
So I had the idea of taking some scraps and using them, see the hatch cover in the attached pic. Looks horrible, but I said I would show warts and all of this build and I will. Then I was not paying attention to the top of the model and pushed my finger through the scraps.
I have another idea, but it will have to wait until I plank the hull.
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achuck49 got a reaction from coxswain in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
The false deck and gun carrage are complete.
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achuck49 got a reaction from coxswain in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
The pieces of this kit fit as tightly as a box of Legos. The ribs can only fit in the appropriate slot, facing the correct direction. As of this attached photo, I had not needed to use any glue. The fit is that tight.
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achuck49 got a reaction from coxswain in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
I started working on the Jolle this morning and discovered some startling features of the kit.
First is that the laser cutting of the pieces is exceptionally precise. I could not get a sharpe blade into the burn line to help loosen the pieces. I needed to get a small piece of tubing and model hammer and tap them loose enough to break away from the main board.
Another discovery is that the printed page identifying various parts does not match the actual wood containing the pieces. To add to this list of horrors is the fact that printed material is not to scale with the actual parts. I had to have the instructions showing the next needed part, next to the paper showing the part number, next to the board that contains the laser cut pieces. Not an easy way to participate in a 'relaxing hobby'.
There is a plus side, the fit of the laser cut pieces is the best I have ever had the pleasure of working with. I soon learned that if something does not fit or looks funny, it is either the wrong piece or the wrong location for the piece. The pieces fit as tightly as do the pieces in a jigsaw puzzle.
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achuck49 got a reaction from cristikc in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
Greetings and Salutations,
I have wanted to start a build log and successfully complete a build log for a long time. I have a true mental block when it comes to building a hull that is not solid out of the box. Master Korabel has all the parts and pieces precut so I figured ‘how hard can this be?’.
The Cannon Jolle 1801, was up for auction and I won the bid for about 1/3 the original price. This supports my opinion that this will not be a hard build. Expensive kits are hard, inexpensive kits should therefore be easy.
The box is about 14"x8" inches and it is full of empty space because inside the parts and pieces are very small.
Please notice the size of the kit when compared to a U.S. dime. Well this means that I need a smaller work space for this particular kit.
Even though the written instructions are in Russian, the photos of the actual build are clear and concise.
I will finish this log. It good then great, if bad, then everyone can learn what not to do.
What can possibly go wrong?
Chuck A
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achuck49 got a reaction from mtaylor in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
Hi
The internet is such a wondrous thing. It is so easy to converse between continents now.
I am not real certain about a successful build, but good bad or otherwise it will be finished.
Korabel does not do paint or even copper bottoms. I plan on coating it with some Danish Wood Oil to both protect the wood and give it a subtitle finish.
Chuck A
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achuck49 got a reaction from dicas in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
The false deck and gun carrage are complete.
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achuck49 got a reaction from mtaylor in Cannon Jolle 1802 by achuck49 - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale
The false deck and gun carrage are complete.
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